Best stage in sump to put skimmer?

roksonic

New member
If I have a three stage sump, First stage is where water comes in, Second is refugium (chaeto & LR), Third is return. Should I have the skimmer in the first or second stage?

I ask this because my first stage is 2 inches higher than my 2 & 3rd stage so I feel like a lot of the nasty surface stuff is falling down and going into the later stages. In fact, i can usually see a oily film layer almost on the later stages.
This is making me consider moving my chaeto and LR into the first stage with the drain and my skimmer on its own in the 2nd stage

Option 1 is my current setup.

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I'm asking this because before i didn't have a sump and i used my skimmer as a HOB and it would produce some nice skimmate now I have it in sump as is seen in Option 1 and I get almost no skimmate in the cup. I'm not 100% sure why but this is my best bet.
 
I use option 1 but I'm not sure there would be much a difference between the two. There are so many variables that could contribute to the low volume of skimmate..... skimmer height in water, skimmer air intake, pump not working correctly and bioload to name a few.
 
Mine is set (1) drain, (2) skimmer, live rocks, chaeto & marine pure will be added(made dividers of egg crates) (3) return pump & thinking of adding another pump
 
I vote number 1. The micro bubbles from your skimmer need a place to "pop" before getting sucked into the return. Unless this sump is massive, then I would put the skimmer in the first chamber
 
Sounds like it's pretty damn unanimous for option 1, I wonder if my skimmer is producing less because I started using filter socks then.
 
If your keeping cheato feed it so drain and fuge should be first

I am keeping Chaeto, but I dose iron every so often. But youre suggesting I should keep the fuge in stage 1? Is this because we're assuming the Skimmer is sucking up nutrients that the Chaeto would otherwise consume?
 
Do not shoot me... But I suggest filter socks (change twice a week or weekly), stage one chaeto with a real light. If you got the light at Home Depot then its not real. Stage two protein skimmer, with live rock and a real light. Protect the skimmer from light. If over time you find the skimmer is not doing much... sell it.
Just my 2 cents.
happy reefing.
 
Correct, aligns with the Triton method

Interesting, thank you for exposing me to the Triton method!

Do not shoot me... But I suggest filter socks (change twice a week or weekly), stage one chaeto with a real light. If you got the light at Home Depot then its not real. Stage two protein skimmer, with live rock and a real light. Protect the skimmer from light. If over time you find the skimmer is not doing much... sell it.
Just my 2 cents.
happy reefing.

I do use felt filter socks 100-200 Micron which is one of the reasons I think my skimmer stopped producing as much. I got a par38 bulb for the fuge which shows noticeable growth on the chaeto.

Should I get a similar chaeto light for the LR too? I do plan on upgrading my skimmer after DT lighting but real estate is in high demand right now..
 
I don't get the triton method, really. Lets do some pretty expensive tests that we might get back in a month or so, and lets add a whole bunch of stuff to our tanks that we really have no idea what it is, and whether it needs it or not.

Sounds like a great business plan to get new reefers to buy a whole bunch unneeded stuff.

You do know the berlin method has been around for a very long time, and it works!


As for the OP, skimmer in the first section. It's the only section that the water level will not fluctuate. Which is what a skimmer needs.
 
I don't get the triton method, really. Lets do some pretty expensive tests that we might get back in a month or so, and lets add a whole bunch of stuff to our tanks that we really have no idea what it is, and whether it needs it or not.

Sounds like a great business plan to get new reefers to buy a whole bunch unneeded stuff.

You do know the berlin method has been around for a very long time, and it works!


As for the OP, skimmer in the first section. It's the only section that the water level will not fluctuate. Which is what a skimmer needs.
that is great that the berlin works for you and that you see no need to change anything. that being said, realistically how many reefers check their water even bi-weekly? probably 5%. how many reefers LOVE LOVE LOOOOOVE doing water changes? not many. if you became aware of a deficiency in your tank and had the chance to adjust it to the benefit of you corals would you? probably.
i personally don't use triton but the excuse that something has worked for the majority of the time when the stone-age of reefing was only 20 years ago isn't very compelling. if this hobby was perfect it wouldn't be trying to advance anymore and the argument that some people have had success with something isn't enough. ALL people want show tanks, fewer tank crashes and less maintenance. also keep in mind that if the user does test often (like i do) the costs of test kits and salt for water changes significantly increases the costs. icp testing just replaces that with far more specific results.
i disagree with the skimmer suggestion too, it would fare better in the second section. if you put the ato sensor in the return and the water level in the second section isn't going to change due to the baffles. it will benefit over section one by not having to deal with the turbid water and bubbles coming in from the inlet.
 
I don't get the triton method, really. Lets do some pretty expensive tests that we might get back in a month or so, and lets add a whole bunch of stuff to our tanks that we really have no idea what it is, and whether it needs it or not.

Sounds like a great business plan to get new reefers to buy a whole bunch unneeded stuff.

You do know the berlin method has been around for a very long time, and it works!


As for the OP, skimmer in the first section. It's the only section that the water level will not fluctuate. Which is what a skimmer needs.

Of course not all methods are meant for everyone. Triton imo is not a method that is realistic for me on a 40B+20G sump especially since I'm likely going to have very little SPS and bioload overall. But exposure is always good and learning and possibly adopting parts of other methods may prove worthwhile.

I might just redo my sump with a 20 long instead for more real estate and better future proof planning as my bubble trap gaps are too large imo and aren't very effective.

that is great that the berlin works for you and that you see no need to change anything. that being said, realistically how many reefers check their water even bi-weekly? probably 5%. how many reefers LOVE LOVE LOOOOOVE doing water changes? not many. if you became aware of a deficiency in your tank and had the chance to adjust it to the benefit of you corals would you? probably.
i personally don't use triton but the excuse that something has worked for the majority of the time when the stone-age of reefing was only 20 years ago isn't very compelling. if this hobby was perfect it wouldn't be trying to advance anymore and the argument that some people have had success with something isn't enough. ALL people want show tanks, fewer tank crashes and less maintenance. also keep in mind that if the user does test often (like i do) the costs of test kits and salt for water changes significantly increases the costs. icp testing just replaces that with far more specific results.
i disagree with the skimmer suggestion too, it would fare better in the second section. if you put the ato sensor in the return and the water level in the second section isn't going to change due to the baffles. it will benefit over section one by not having to deal with the turbid water and bubbles coming in from the inlet.


I think I might go with the second section as well after creating a new sump where the second chamber has a more stable water level. Right now I burn through a gallon a day and I need to figure out where I can store large amounts of ATO water, so until then I don't think i'll be implementing an ATO. I heard storing water in those Brute bins outside in sunlight may have negative effects on water quality so I'll have to figure something else out.

I use option two. Skimmer seems to work better in chamber 2 as the water is calmer.

It is calmer but the stage doesn't have a set water level like stage one does so with some modification i'll be moving it to stage two.


For now it's in stage one while I go on vacation since it aint broke I don't want to change anything and have my tank sitter struggling lol.
 
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