Best T5 lamps

BankerJohn

New member
I just received and installed my new 4X54W T5HO fixture over a 55. I want to keep LPS and would like to know the best bulb mix (colors, spectrum, brand, etc) to keep LPS.

Thank you for your feedback
 
You might as well have asked what is the best flavor of Koolade.
I will have to go with
sun
blue+
Actinic
Aqua blue

and Invisible Raspberry Koolade
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7628877#post7628877 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Thurge
You might as well have asked what is the best flavor of Koolade.
I will have to go with
sun
blue+
Actinic
Aqua blue

and Invisible Raspberry Koolade


exactly is all user preference.... what do you like white? blue?


i use 1 URI, 2 actinic, and 1 aquablue+
 
The sun bulb sucks in terms of output/PAR.The G.E.6500k is a much better choice IMO compared to the ATI/D&D "sun".
I use G.E.,aquablue,and 2 blue+ on my 75.I no longer like the aquablue's(11k),I think it makes corals look drab.I am gonna switch it out for a UVL actinic white and swapping a blue+ for a UVL super actinic.
 
the test on all T5 bulbs.
lux meter
ATI/Giesemann:
NR SS IC
11K.....98...201...264
B+......83...163...213

UVL:
we
10K.....79....158...214
12K.....77....161...205
UVA.....57....117...160

2-3year OLD bulbs:
GE.......83...153...210
GA......13.....26.....34

NR= no reflector. There was a white board behind the bulb. White boards are more reflective than cheep foil slap-ons. I figure most people will have at least a white hood.
SS= Sunlight Supplys
IC= Ice Cap
 
I was there with clownnut during the tests. As we had just got in the UVL bulbs and wanted to see how they stacked up to the ATI brands.

The distance from the bulb was 5.5", it was the apogee par meter used to get the light readings. Ballast was the Univeral b254punv-d ( same as Tek lights use ), bulbs were all 54W 48" bulbs. The ratio of increased light using the Icecap slr vs. the Tek reflectors is pretty much 25% regardless what bulb. So whenever possible, I personally would choose retrofit over a Tek fixture to get more light with less bulbs.

I ran the ATI Aquablues along with VHO super actinics for a little more than a year, my experience was not very favrable for LPS. Many either didn't expand as well or had a lighter/faded color to them over time. I did switch back to VHOs and was much happier. I am trying the UVL brand bulbs in the same basic ratios as I preferred with the VHOs hoping to get similiar results with my LPS but the jury probably won't be out until about 6 months of use or more. I am hopeful but not switching out my show tank until I can get a better feel for how my LPS will react.

Nobody has the same exact corals, water quality, personal preferences for aethics, light duration, height, water temps and a ton of other variables there is just no way to say what is going to work best for you or what will look the best. IME: you just got to go with something and trying different combinations until you get what works best for your tank. I personally hate the Blue+ bulbs, yet you will find probably just as many people who prefer it over an actinic.
 
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I personally think the GE is to bright for LPS and brings a flat yellowish white to the tank. Id only suggest that bulb for a mixed or a predominantly stony tank.

Most LPS are typically from deeper waters so to emulate this Id opt to have the light output in the bluer spectrum which will also compliment the corals coloring/flourescense better. Stick with the 11k and blue+ for sure, but you may also want to add the new URI superactinic.My vote?

blu+
11k
URI superactinic
11k

Think this combo would give you a sweet 14k look that gives you the best of both worlds as the blu+ will pop your reds and blues, while the superactinic will help on the greens and purples.Just a suggestion though ;)

-Justin
 
Has anyone found LPS to bleach under T5s? I have had several echinos start to show signs of bleaching under my TekLight until I moved them to the shadows of the tank. They are slowly starting to recover their lost colors. I don't know if they were actually bleaching or their colors were just fading...it would occur in a banding pattern. How much T5 is too much for a 120 gallon, 24" deep tank? Should I only be using 4 bulbs of the 8 bulb fixture?

Thanks,

Kirk
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7686776#post7686776 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Kirk_M
Has anyone found LPS to bleach under T5s? I have had several echinos start to show signs of bleaching under my TekLight until I moved them to the shadows of the tank. They are slowly starting to recover their lost colors. I don't know if they were actually bleaching or their colors were just fading...it would occur in a banding pattern. How much T5 is too much for a 120 gallon, 24" deep tank? Should I only be using 4 bulbs of the 8 bulb fixture?

Thanks,

Kirk

Oh yeah. I had several welso brains bleach and some candy canes. I just have to make sure now that they are shaded. It took a year for one of my brains to recover. It was totaly bleached practically overnight. I have 6 t5's over a 75.
 
I was using T5 aquablues and VHO actinics on an Icecap for a little more than a year. I had issues of Echinos, acans, and chalice corals fading over time. Wasn't bleaching as this was over the course of 6 months or more. They were all the way on the bottom of a 58g tank. I have since switched back to VHOs for the show tank since Jan. and now looking back to the old self again. I'm hoping the UVL T5s not overdriven and less bulbs this time will give same results as I get with VHOs but will probably be a good 6 months or more until I know just how well it works out on the frag tank. Until then my show tank will remain VHOs....
 
URI actinic white and D&D Actinic plus. 2 of each will be awsome. Combo of color and par cannot be beat IMO.
 
not sure if you guys knows this, but lux is not the proper indicator for lighting output when it comes to feeding corals.

par, or ppfd, is the correct method to measure the amount of light available for photosynthesis.

something with high lux can have low par, and the converse can also be true.

and according to grim reefer, the ati giesemann sub bulbs produce more par, even if just slightly, over the ge's.
 
If your referring to the clownnut post. He was mistaken it was the apogee par meter not Lux readings.

Conversely, people but way too much stock in a Par reading which doesn't really care what part of the spectrum the reading comes from. More par is not always better and simliar readings from different bulbs can give entirely different results. It really comes down to what the particular corals responds best to and a PAR reading will not tell you that.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7715997#post7715997 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by David Grigor
...
Conversely, people but way too much stock in a Par reading which doesn't really care what part of the spectrum the reading comes from. More par is not always better and simliar readings from different bulbs can give entirely different results. It really comes down to what the particular corals responds best to and a PAR reading will not tell you that.

I couldnt agree with you more, infact I was thinking just that to myself while inspecting my bulbs a min ago coincedentally.

To further elaborate on this the reader should ask themselves this" If I have a 250 watt 3000k bulb and a 400 watt 20k bulb with relatively identical PAR readings, which corals will be healthier and thrive better?"

IMO a coral recieving the proper spectrum at lower amounts will thrive better than a high PAR reading of a spectrum it wont be able to utilize. Or maybe Im just opting to have smaller colorfull corals opposed to big brown ones:confused:

-Justin
 
true, and good article btw, but!I think there is a point of critical mass at which point PAR canbe detrimental due to being to intense. Also, the chemical properties and blue spectrums influences are from outdated sources and experiments but in my opinion are still relative. Theres a balance somewhere and the article also suggests that it's findings arent a definitive answer as they were just testing fungia and its photosynthetic rates measuring elctrode traffic.

This also ties into my feelings of relativity of light in our aquaria and everyones quest for the best. You can have the Figi sun sittin over your tank but if the filtration and flow are lacking it will only amount to frustrations. Just from my own experiences, I have a handfull of corals who could care less if there at the top or the bottom of the tank, but if there not getting a good current on them there hating life and it shows in growth and color.

On that note, this thread inspired me to change out my GE 6500k for the new URI superactinic.Just ordered it today from some helpfull people at the reefstop.com!(Along with a Seio 1100 ;))

-Justin
 
Ok this is off topic somewhat, but you guys should be able to help. I am getting ready to change out a dual 400w Hqi ballast running single ended Reeflux 20k bulbs with a 8 bulb t5 ho system on my 75. How much should I worry about light acclimation? The T5's should have a lower output, but in different spectrums (the system is a mix of actinic and daylights). I know the corals are used to a lot of light, but if they are receiving quite a bit of light in different spectrums is that harmful? It seems like it very well could be.

Thanks for the input.
 
You may experience a month at most of discoloration or browning. If so, I think itd be short lived by the time they all adjust to the difference.Then again, nothing noticeable may happen :)

-Justin
 
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