Best testing choices?

[SeaTila]

Hi, was wondering what everyone is using for testing. gonefishing brought up excellect point about mag and alk issue possibly causing ph drop. I have api ca test and it shows 440 but also have a ca/mag combo test and I am not sure if im getting the right numbers from it. Its showing much lower for ca and for mag. I have been using the api for ph, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and ca. And I have a phosphate test and refractometer.

The instant tests...two different ones I try...both are not reliable imho...unless I'm just misinterpreting. The only way I see alk is using an instant test so likely my main issue. What tests and brands is everyone using to get good picture of what has to be dosed abd how much?



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[shifty51008]

salifert works very well, been using them ever sence I started this hobby. API is decent for a quick check, at least for cal and alk but their other tests suck IME. salifert's readings just get a lot more accurate.

for phosphate I use the hanna checkers, much easier to read than a color.

 

[gone fishin]

I like the salifert tests as well for alk, calc and mag. They are easy to use and read. More importantly they are very repeatable for me.

I would also mention if you get these three dialed in then pH should not be of much concern for you.

 

[Sk8r]

salifert is my choice.

 

[GimpyFin]

I use red sea/red sea pro for everything but alk and phosphate. For those I use the hanna ulr phosphorous and marine alk checkers.

 

[thegrun]

You will save a little money with the Red Sea Pro test kits and they compare favorably with Salifert, but I still use Salifert because I find them a little easier to use, possibly because I've used their test kits for so many years. Years ago the Red Sea test kits were bad, but when Red Sea introduced the Pro series of test kits they made them equal to the other high end hobby test kits. A lot of us use Hanna Checkers for alkalinity and phosphates, I use one for phosphates but there have been enough issues with the Hanna regents that I still prefer the Salifert test kit for alkalinity.

 

[SeaTila]

I like the salifert tests as well for alk, calc and mag. They are easy to use and read. More importantly they are very repeatable for me.

I would also mention if you get these three dialed in then pH should not be of much concern for you.

I'll try salifert. I checked numbers this am. Salinity 1.025, nitrite 0, phosphate .15, nitrate 10ppm, calcium 440, ph 8.0, ammonia <.2 ..

My mg/ca test was different than ca api test so not sure yet. Alk not sure because all I have is two instant strip tests for alk but I'll get this info soon. I think I'm just overly worried. I added airstone for now as precaution.

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[shifty51008]

Phosphates are really high, you want them around .03ppm and your ammonia is very high. Hopefully there is no fish in the tank and your cycling

 

[BigEZ77]

I use Redsea for most of my stuff, but use Salifert for Mag. I actually find the Salifert kit the easiest to read. I might switch all to Salifert once these run out but am glad I bought the redsea kits cuz I can keep the glass vials and the hand tool which lets you add and shake at the same time...and the hard plastic storage container...best of both worlds.

 

[bmitchell138]

I switched from API to Red Sea Pro tests, and I like them so far. My LFS stocks Red Sea refills which was the reason I purchased them instead of Salifert.

 

[Timfish]

For decades have been using API for pH, Alk, Calcium, high range PO4 and high range Nitrate.
Nyos sometimes for high range Nitrate (has steps for 1, 3, 5 mg/l and is faster than Red Sea's low range for testing the 0-10 mg/l range).
Red Sea for Magnesium and low range Nitrate.
Elos for low range PO4 and sometimes thier Alk is more sensitive than API

 

[SeaTila]

I like the salifert tests as well for alk, calc and mag. They are easy to use and read. More importantly they are very repeatable for me.

I would also mention if you get these three dialed in then pH should not be of much concern for you.

Heres my new numbers this am.
Salinity 1.025
Calcium 420
Mg 1410
Ammonia .3
Phosphate .15
Ph 7.7
Nitite 0
Nitrate 5ppm

concerned on ammonia. I have have change 25g of 200g 7 days ago with no ammonia. what percentage water change today should I do today or should I just do an ammonia lock or prime. Im currently dosing stability daily only at 10caps for the 200g. Fish are starting to look unhappy but changing water can also stress them out and looks like biofilter cant convert ammonia yet as needed and trying to establish biofilter with all this stability dosing. Ive got a large amount of liverock and macralgae but micro algae is appearing more than usual. Im starting a new biocube 29 and can move fish but was wanting to wait until new tank cycles to make this tank fallow. Btw the anemones and other inverts polyps and zoas look good so far.

What would you do?

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[Bl4ckDr4g0n]

Large water changes, at least 25% or get the fish out. Why is your Ammonia spiking I did not understand.

Biospira or some kind of bacteria supplement would work too.

 

[SeaTila]

Large water changes, at least 25% or get the fish out. Why is your Ammonia spiking I did not understand.

Biospira or some kind of bacteria supplement would work too.

I moved old established tank to new larger tank and super novice so still understanding interconnections of what numbers tell u and how to fix...just starting to understand how biofilter hands bad bacteria since my first tank cycled after I moved it but was much easier because I moved and kept sand water liverock etc so biofilter already established in that tank made the tank more about maintaining good levels and salinity...

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[jam.jo]

I use red sea Reef Foundation Pro Test Kit. It is very helpful- I love it. If Red Sea made more test kits I would buy them all. I have their Iodine test kit as well- which is a little more difficult.

 

[gone fishin]

Heres my new numbers this am.
Salinity 1.025
Calcium 420
Mg 1410
Ammonia .3
Phosphate .15
Ph 7.7
Nitite 0
Nitrate 5ppm

concerned on ammonia. I have have change 25g of 200g 7 days ago with no ammonia. what percentage water change today should I do today or should I just do an ammonia lock or prime. Im currently dosing stability daily only at 10caps for the 200g. Fish are starting to look unhappy but changing water can also stress them out and looks like biofilter cant convert ammonia yet as needed and trying to establish biofilter with all this stability dosing. Ive got a large amount of liverock and macralgae but micro algae is appearing more than usual. Im starting a new biocube 29 and can move fish but was wanting to wait until new tank cycles to make this tank fallow. Btw the anemones and other inverts polyps and zoas look good so far.

What would you do?

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If I remember correctly you removed the rock from you smaller tank directly to the larger tank with some new rock. Also, moved the livestock over from the smaller tank to the larger tank. You have not added any more live stock to the new tank. Assuming your new rock for the new tank was not dirty dead rock then your old rock should still be able to handle the bioload.

You can add some prime to lock up the ammonia. I always like to keep some on hand for emergency purposes. Just be aware that if you use some prime then your ammonia test may show a bogus result.

 

[CStrickland]

There's a good thread in the chem forum where somebody brought all the tests and compared them. I think it's called test kit "shoot out"

I use API for everything but mg and phos, cause mg doesn't come in the API multi kit and the API phos is garbage. I use salifert for mg and a Hanna ULR for phos.

I like prime for ammonia spikes too, it won't hurt anything. But if you're using the API kit for ammonia still it's really common for them to give a false .25 positive. You can usually being a sample of water to a pet store for free testing if you want to confirm your readings

 

[SeaTila]

If I remember correctly you removed the rock from you smaller tank directly to the larger tank with some new rock. Also, moved the livestock over from the smaller tank to the larger tank. You have not added any more live stock to the new tank. Assuming your new rock for the new tank was not dirty dead rock then your old rock should still be able to handle the bioload.

You can add some prime to lock up the ammonia. I always like to keep some on hand for emergency purposes. Just be aware that if you use some prime then your ammonia test may show a bogus result.

Yes...that's right. Moved over about 150lbs of very established live rock with alot of macralgae and very little micro algae. Lots of inverts, snails, pods...happy fishes and didnt move the old sand. I didnt pull any water from old tank, only kept media filter and moved over in about a week. Now my mistake was not pulling sponges and filter pads from old tank...and not realizing I needed stability etc for establishing new biofilter. I gave away the old 120g after 2 weeks in new tank a bit prematurely. ..live and learn but the old tank was wearinv me out...sump was huge issue and sandbed hadnt been cleaned in a year before I got it ...so microsocks filled up right away and skimmer had to be constantly adjusted......I like to move forward and tanks gone. I bought a biocube 29g sunday and started it up with live sand, fishless, quickstart, and resin decor.

Back on topic...I was thinking about ammonia lock thought it was risky for fish to hope the biofilter is established enough...so did the 2nd water change today...50g of 200g...shewww.. I'm turning into quite the saltwater maker pro...on third bag in two months...between new water for 200g and water changes with old 120g tank and new..I'm tired of making water.

My measurements are puzzling to me so likely I'm missing info to understand....why low ph? Ammonia making water acidic? I add airbubbles to the tank and now I want to get an o2 test. I adjusted the sump water level and noticed I could make a waterfall into the return pump area. When I did that I noticed bubbles forming first time. My return pump is a DC 10000...and its always on 3 and my gyre is constant currently and 50%...it appears to have lots of flow and skimmer creates bubbles...theres lots of surface movement. I buffer my ro when added.



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[SeaTila]

There's a good thread in the chem forum where somebody brought all the tests and compared them. I think it's called test kit "shoot out"

I use API for everything but mg and phos, cause mg doesn't come in the API multi kit and the API phos is garbage. I use salifert for mg and a Hanna ULR for phos.

I like prime for ammonia spikes too, it won't hurt anything. But if you're using the API kit for ammonia still it's really common for them to give a false .25 positive. You can usually being a sample of water to a pet store for free testing if you want to confirm your readings

Used the api ammonia and its a bit greenish but mostly still yellowish ...inbetween. I have instant lifegard ammonia and never seen one turn green...I have a feeling if you see green on that instant ammonia test you're seeing floating fish. I'm trying out the ammonia monitor on the tank but will still daily test. I can tell when the sailfin doesnt have perfect water conditions. Happy puppy dog acting fish follows me around acting curious and wanting attention but not this am...and her color changes to dark or white but not with typical colors. I went ahead and did the 25% change. I dont like the idea of putting ammonia block in the tank moving ammonia to deadly no2...I'll pass this time and save that for emergency/bind.

After the h2o change I added elos a1 bacto...I had it and hadnt tried it. Ive been using stability but thought id dose the a1 bacto today and go back to stability tomorrow.

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[SeaTila]

Large water changes, at least 25% or get the fish out. Why is your Ammonia spiking I did not understand.

Biospira or some kind of bacteria supplement would work too.

Thanks. I had to have someone tell me I had to do the 25% cause wasn't wanting to do a 50g change today. Glad I did it though...less worry.

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