Bio balls and wheels out?
- Thread starter JimR
- Start date
stevebydac
New member
It's not that they are bad, it's just that other means have been determined to be better.
Wet/dry units are fantastic at creating oxygenation for a tank, and in breaking down ammonia>>>nitrates. But they do not remove nitrates. And the bioballs serve as a trap for detritus.
Now, we lean more toward an empty sump with a big protein skimmer, plus a refugium. The skimmer removes the bad stuff before it even breaks down, while a refugium and its macroalgae eliminates the nitrates.
I have read a few experts who still say that wet/drys are a good idea for very heavy bioload tanks (lots of big predators), because of their spectacular ability to break down ammonia. I'm curious if anyone has put a wet/dry and a big refugium together on the same tank. That might be a great combination.
Wet/dry units are fantastic at creating oxygenation for a tank, and in breaking down ammonia>>>nitrates. But they do not remove nitrates. And the bioballs serve as a trap for detritus.
Now, we lean more toward an empty sump with a big protein skimmer, plus a refugium. The skimmer removes the bad stuff before it even breaks down, while a refugium and its macroalgae eliminates the nitrates.
I have read a few experts who still say that wet/drys are a good idea for very heavy bioload tanks (lots of big predators), because of their spectacular ability to break down ammonia. I'm curious if anyone has put a wet/dry and a big refugium together on the same tank. That might be a great combination.
To continue what Steve started, because wet/drys and biowheels don't remove nitrates, the nitrates quickly rise to levels that are toxic to corals and many other marine creatures. Basically these filters limit what you'll be able to keep alive in a reef tank.
Fish are more tolerant of nitrates than coral, although marine fish are much less tolerant than freshwater fish. It's not uncommon to see Emperor biowheel filters on predator fish-only with live rock tanks (FOWLR).
Live rock and live sand (in the form of a deep sand bed / DSB) can process nitrate into nitrogen, which leaves the water as a gas.
Protein skimmers (foam fractionators), either hang on back or (better) in a sump can remove organic materiel before it breaks down. These can be expensive, so check out the Equipment and Vendor Experience foums for recommendations. The process doesn't work in freshwater.
Macro algae and clams both consume nitrates, and can be added to the mix to further reduce the nitrate levels. That becomes more important when you're trying to keep the more delicate types of corals.
There's lots of good information of RC and this site: http://www.melevsreef.com/links.html
Fish are more tolerant of nitrates than coral, although marine fish are much less tolerant than freshwater fish. It's not uncommon to see Emperor biowheel filters on predator fish-only with live rock tanks (FOWLR).
Live rock and live sand (in the form of a deep sand bed / DSB) can process nitrate into nitrogen, which leaves the water as a gas.
Protein skimmers (foam fractionators), either hang on back or (better) in a sump can remove organic materiel before it breaks down. These can be expensive, so check out the Equipment and Vendor Experience foums for recommendations. The process doesn't work in freshwater.
Macro algae and clams both consume nitrates, and can be added to the mix to further reduce the nitrate levels. That becomes more important when you're trying to keep the more delicate types of corals.
There's lots of good information of RC and this site: http://www.melevsreef.com/links.html
OK, here is my plan:
I purchased a Tidepool1 ( along with a Mag7 for $80 ):
It has 3 filter media drawers. I plan on #1 microfiber to filter out detritus, #2 SeaChem Matrix ( Phosphate removal media ), #3 charcoal.
Have the Tidepool overflow ( using a bulkhead ) into a 29 gal refug loaded with Cheato. Mag7 return to the main tank. Oh yea, this is for a 55gal reef, which I'm getting ready to setup.
As you can see, the Tidepool has a bio-wheel, should I try using it and see what happens, or should I leave it out from the start? I wont have a skimmer for awhile.
I'm counting on the combination of the Seachem Matrix, Cheato and LR to delete any Nitrates, even with a heavy bio load.
I purchased a Tidepool1 ( along with a Mag7 for $80 ):
It has 3 filter media drawers. I plan on #1 microfiber to filter out detritus, #2 SeaChem Matrix ( Phosphate removal media ), #3 charcoal.
Have the Tidepool overflow ( using a bulkhead ) into a 29 gal refug loaded with Cheato. Mag7 return to the main tank. Oh yea, this is for a 55gal reef, which I'm getting ready to setup.
As you can see, the Tidepool has a bio-wheel, should I try using it and see what happens, or should I leave it out from the start? I wont have a skimmer for awhile.
I'm counting on the combination of the Seachem Matrix, Cheato and LR to delete any Nitrates, even with a heavy bio load.
davocean
Active member
bio's seem to be good on freshwater, but not salt.
I can't stress enough how important a skimmer is.
That and LR are more important than a sump IMO.
Charcoal tends to remove beneficial and bad elements.
I sometimes use it when I do a heavy cleaning just to polish the water, but only for a few days.
I can't stress enough how important a skimmer is.
That and LR are more important than a sump IMO.
Charcoal tends to remove beneficial and bad elements.
I sometimes use it when I do a heavy cleaning just to polish the water, but only for a few days.
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