BioCube 8 with 54Watts

stealle

Premium Member
Thought I would share some of my mods with you guys. Tell me what you think!

First my light mod...
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That's two 18W 10000K (one of them is overdriven by a 36W ballast) and one 18W actinic. I upgraded the stock fans (loud 50mm fans) with 60mm fans by silenx (they move more air and are almost totally silent!). Both fans are blowing out and I dremeled new vents just above the feeder opening for air intake.

I've got a fuge in chamber two. Here is my fuge light...
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I mounted a 60mm silenx fan over that hole. This fuge light mod has no effect on water temp!
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Then I painted it black. Here it is on the back of the tank...
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Here's my clown...
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FTS...
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The tank has only been up for about 6 weeks. I'm ready for some corals! My LFS doesn't have anything I want:mad:
 
Nice mod's this is what I've been looking for sw steve did you do any pump mod's I should have my 14 up by Xmas
 
@Jasonf08 - it is painted. I just marked the area of paint that I wanted to remove and took a razor blade and scraped it off. Once you get down to the glass, just start slicing off 2-4mm of paint at a time all the way down to the glass until you've got it all off. It took about 15 minutes. Take your time and don't feel like you have to take off all the paint in one swipe or you'll just be scratching/shaving the paint. Also, hold the razor so you are slicing the paint off and not digging into the glass. You can scratch the glass!

@ roader - I'm using the mini-jet 606 with a hydor flo. That bumps up my gph from the stock 100 gph to 150gph. Also the mini-jet is a quieter pump. That'll do for now. I have a really cool mod that I'm working on for a pump mod. It's gonna be pretty awesome if it works out. Gotta order some parts. It'll be a few weeks before that mod is in place.

If I had the 14 gallon, I'd go with one maxi jet 1200. Or better yet, I'd go with a mini-jet 606 with a hydor flo. Then I'd put another mini-jet 606 in chamber one. Cut a hole in chamber one and plump another hydor flo in between the two intake vents. That would give some nice random flo! Find out more about different mods for your tank. It's nice to be able to mod your tank when it's empty.
 
Hey thanks for the info. It would be nice to see the light & how it shines through. I ordered a palm light to see if if i could clip it on one of the flanges & adjust it over my chamber 1 with the chaeto. If that doesnt work i'll be scraping the back & ordering one of those dual 9 watt coralife fixtures & velcroing it to the back. How did you afix yours to the tank?
 
One more question sw steve how did you mount your hydor flo I have one but I haven't figured a good way to mount it
 
I don't have a pic of it shining through, but I suppose I could take a pic of it later... while I'm doing a water change tonight.

It's attached to the back with velcro. You can see the velcro in the second pic of the fuge light. The best way to do it is to clean all surfaces with alcohol. Attach both pieces of the velcro to the light, then expose the adhesive and stick it to the tank. Then don't try to remove it from the tank for a couple days to allow the adhesive some time to bond. I prefer this to clip on lights that bleed to much light. I don't want the back of the tank glowing.

@ roader - When you buy a new hydor-flo it comes with several adapters. Just pic the one that attaches to the stock outlet and push it in. I've heard from a few people that they sometimes pop off from the pressure. If that happens you can wrap ssome teflon tape around it to make a tighter fit. I haven't had to do that. I've had mine running for 6 weeks and it has never popped off.
 
OK, here are some pics...

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I started with a tiny ball of cheato...

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and here it is two weeks later...

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You can see that it's wider and taller, but you can't see how much deeper it is. Overall I would say it's almost 4 times the original size.
 
Sweet, i may scrape mine also. But i have the azoo palm light coming & if that cant fit under the hood I'll scrape the back.
 
I'm not sure you'll be happy with the fuge in chamber one. First of all you won't get all that much flow through the cheato. You'll only get what water is coming through the bottom intake vent. Also, as the cheato grows and gets thick the flow will slow down. When the flow slows down in chamber one the level in the display rises. When the level in the display gets too high it doesn't surface skim very well and sometimes the water will start spilling over the other chambers. You can also see in the pics above that I cut the plastic in between chamber 1 and 2. That helps improve flow as well.

For chamber one... I took out the bottom grate. Tossed in about four golf ball size peices of rubble and a 5oz. bag of chemi-pure on top of that.

For chamber two... I like having that drip tray in place. I cut a small peice of poly filter (or sometimes use filter floss) on top of that. It gets really nasty after about three days. It's a nice easy place to keep some mechanical filtration while still allowing the pods in the cheato to escape into the main display.

Chamber two is bigger so more room for cheato to grow. I pulled out the bottom tray in chamber two and put in a little rubble. Then I put the bottom tray back in place. Then I put a little more rubble and the cheato is growing on top of that. With the fuge in chamber two, you have ALL of the water flowing through the cheato. That's what you want so the cheato will remove the nasties from your water.

I was considering a fuge in chamber one at first, but I'm glad I went this route.
 
Photos look great. I ordered the 2 by 9watt coralife to stick to the back of my tank. I wish there was a better way to light up the chamber, but the pics you have are awesome. I would rather use chamber 2 also on my 29G, but i have done tanks without a skimmer before & i guess im spoiled & want them both, haha.

I know i'll start to have some flow problems, but i figured if i pulled enough out when i trimmed it I could keep the flow managable. Otherwise its i'll go to a CPR HOB unit.
 
@ Salty :bigeyes: caught me

@Jasonf08 - Ahhh... I see I didn't know you had a 29G. I think I'd do the same thing.
 
Now Im torn on what light kit to get. I cant decide if i want the MH or PC kit from nanotuners. I keep leaning tworads sps & clams so i may go with the MH
 
I considered MH for my 8G. I know I could get one to fit, but I think it would be impossible to cool and possibly a fire hazard. I'd go with MH if I had a 29G. No more worries about lighting with MH. I'd still want some actinic under the hood with it. I'd make sure you mod the ventilation with MH or get a chiller.

Here is a pic of the new vent I put in my hood when I added the additional PC bulb...

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The stock vents in the back were also cut and opened up. Both fans blow out. Air is pulled in through the new vent up front.
 
Im leaning twords the MH Kit from Nanotuners.
It comes with:
x 70w Aqua Medic 10000K HQI bulb (20000K available)
1 x 70w Sunpark Electronic Ballast (2 year warranty!!!)
1 x Anodized Aluminum Ballast Enclosure
1 x Remote Ballast Cable
1 x 1mm Hammertone Reflector
1 x 6mm Tempered Safety Glass - Heatsink cooled
1 x 140F High Temperature Cutoff (safety feature)
1 x ICA Device
Uses origional 36 watt bulb for antinic

I would like to see if i could cram in the other PC bulb for additional antinic or blue

Im leaning more twords doing a sps dominated tank.
 
I'd probably go with the 10000K MH over the 20000K bulb if those are your only two options, but I think some places have a 14000K bulb that you could replace it with down the road. That would be pretty sweet!
 
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