Blastomussa wellsi recovery

TippyToex said:

heuerfan - Wow! What a beauty. :eek1: Other then the little recession it looks good. There are no softies (or zoanthids) near by are there? My other blasto receded the same when some zoanthids got too close. I moved them (ran carbon more frequently to help control alleopathy) and they perked up.

FWIW, I am quite sure the pods are eating away the tissue that wasted away. Keep feeding it, it truly helps!
Click to expand...

Thanks Amy! I'm hoping it will recover! No zoos or sofites near by, but on the other side of this blasto piece i notice there were two zoo polyps growing but i plucked them off.

I'm not running carbon, which brand you recommend?

I'm starting to feed mysis soaked in selcon, its hard for me to feed cyclopeeze. How much mysis should i feed? I feed 3 pieces last night.

Regarding flow, i don't have direct flow at this blasto, but there is decent water movment in front of it.

Crazy amphipods, as long as they are eating the healthy tissue.

Thanks for your help Amy!
 
Thanks Marc! :)

heuerfan said:
I'm not running carbon, which brand you recommend?
Click to expand...

I've been very happy with Black Diamond. I'd recommend that, as it has little dust to wash off and has helped with water clarity and I believe with alleopathy very well.

I'm starting to feed mysis soaked in selcon, its hard for me to feed cyclopeeze. How much mysis should i feed? I feed 3 pieces last night.
Click to expand...

Mysis is a good meaty food to go with! Mine get about 3-4 pieces a head. I think you will find the more and more you feed them the more apt they become to holding onto their food, and more they ingest. Just be carful of size. You want small bites to allow for easy digestion. That is another reason I like cyclop-eeze. Not only for it's nutritional value, but it's nice and small.

A good trick I have for feeding cyclop-eeze to LPS is how I load the turkey baster. I put in about 1/2 a tablespoon worth of semi-defrosted cyclop-eeze(I'm a chef so forgive the measurements lol). I then drip some tank water in so it's become a little loose. Then get close to the mouth of the blasto (pumps off) and slowly drizzle the food into it. It stays pretty darn well for me. :)

Regarding flow, i don't have direct flow at this blasto, but there is decent water movment in front of it.
Click to expand...

Good. I don't like direct flow for most any coral but a good random movement. So long as it is not too still or stagnate.

Glad to help! Keep updating pretty please.
 
I found that I'm far from graceful with keeping the baster under control, so I started using a 5ml syringe to feed the blasto. I take about a pea size chunk and let it thaw in a plastic cup without water. Then I take about 1 ml tank water, add it to the cup, then draw the cyclop-eeze into the syringe. While I've got my hand in there, I offer some to my hammer, torch frag, candy cane and whoever else happens to look hungry!:D

Thanks again for the great thread Amy! I will keep posting pictures...hopefully from a new camera soon.
 
I noticed this morning that the blasto is starting to show more signs of recovery. Finally, some tissue swelling! :)

blasto.sized.jpg
 
Your tank is starting to show signs of a cyano outbreak very soon. This happened to me when I fed my suncoral like you are. Either feed less, more frequently so that you can target the polyp and nothing else, or move the polyp, stir up the substrate and put it back.
 
This is an interesting thread so far. I love my wellsi's and have good luck with them so far (fingers crossed). I did pick up a very receeded colony hoping it would come back - and it is very slowly but I have not done anything. I'm going to try the above approach and see how it goes. I was just talking to some LFS folks today about recovering blasto wellsi's and they admitted that they either get lucky or they dont.

I'd like to know what kind of lighting you folks have who are keeping wellsi's succsessfully? I have all T5 and they seem to love it. A friend fragged his wellsi colony gave me half then a couple months later his died. It was a colony we had just purchased and he keeps his tank very tidy so we wondered if it could be attributed to his halides vs my T5's. There are too many variables to know, but many people I know that use MH do not have great succsess with B. wellsi.
 
GraviT said:
I noticed this morning that the blasto is starting to show more signs of recovery. Finally, some tissue swelling! :)
Click to expand...

Nice!! :D Keep at it, it's getting some sweet color too. Melev gave some good advice, so do take care of that cyno.


mothra - My tank has dual 175's MH 14k (no added actinic) and I need to put them in a well shaded area for them to expand. I did have them out in the open for a while but they were always shrunken (even after a very long acclimation). Once I put it in the shade it really filled out.
 
I've stopped target feeding it for a bit to try and get the impending cyano outbreak under control. I've expected that it was coming, the stuff is running rampant in my refugium. :( I'm just about to sit down and test my NO3 & PO4 to see what the scoop is, been slacking on those 2 and spending too much time watching Ca, Mg, Alk and Strontium.

Thanks for the encouragement Amy! :D
 
You can run Chemi Clean in your refugium only, by cutting the flow to the main tank and adding a powerhead for the dosage.
 
Thanks Marc, but no can do in my case. My fuge is actually a part of the sump, in between the intake and return. I use a few baffles to slow the flow through the 'fuge, but taking it offline can't be done without going sumpless for a couple of days.



sump2.sized.jpg


Major design flaw on my part :(. One of these days, I may get around to fixing it.
 
Well, you could treat the entire system. Only takes 24 hours. :D

During water changes, you can remove the macro and shake it out in the water you are about to dispose of, but it will only slow it down, not end it.
 
True, treating the entire system is always an option. Fortunately, the fuge is the only really nasty area so far, the display still looks pretty good.

If I do end up treating it, at least this time I'll get more sleep! :D Last time, I waited a couple of days after you treated your tank before attempting mine. Hey, want to do it again? :p
 
:lol: Maybe I will, just to hold your hand through the process. It really isn't a big deal. Just add an airstone, turn off the skimmer, and watch that bacteria die! :strooper:
 
TippyToex

I have an open green brain that looks similar to what yours looked like. I haven't seen its tentacles in months, it doesn't swell up at all, it is hard to the touch in 75% of the surface. However, there is still quite a bit of the flourescent green color to it. I'm a beginner so I don't know whether it is dead or alive. Will the color stay around even if it is dead?
 
If the tissue has died, you would only see skeleton and more than likely the green color would be gone.

A few months ago, I was given a pink open brain by a LFS who had given up hope and moved it into the live rock tank to die. After a bit of target feeding with Cyclop-eeze and mysis, it began to recover. Today, it looks like this:

PICT0013_001.sized.jpg


How long has your tank been setup and how are the water parameters (temp, nitrate, salinity, Ph etc..)? Is the coral on the substrate? If so, you might try moving it up slowly and see if more light makes it happy.
 
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