blue gigantea anemone finally hosting a clown, is it ok?

[Donly1]

Does the anenome look healthy? One week old in my tank.
Will this orange clown that just hosted it keep it in the same spot?
Will the orange clown feed it?
Will the other black clown host with it also, both clowns at the same time?
It seems that it has closed up a bit. Will it open wide like the first day?

 

[joshky]

Does the anenome look healthy? One week old in my tank.

What lighting/flow do you have? It looks like it's stretching looking for one or the other. It's also slightly bleached and the tentacles aren't long like they should be, but this is somewhat normal for a newly added gig. I cannot say for sure if this anemone is healthy, if you see it deflate or spit out black pellets those are sure signs of a sick gigantea anemone.

Will this orange clown that just hosted it keep it in the same spot?

Anemones host, clowns do not. Semantics aside clownfish can be rough on newly added anemones. Since it seems to be moving on you, it reinforces my theory that either your flow or lighting are not sufficient for this anemone where it's at and it's looking for a better spot where it is sufficient.

Will the orange clown feed it?

Technically.

Will the other black clown host with it also, both clowns at the same time?

Maybe.

It seems that it has closed up a bit. Will it open wide like the first day?

I'd like to see a photo of it being closed up, it could be a sign of infection.

 

[Dkuhlmann]

It does look like its reaching for more light. I would consider taking some of the rocks off of the left side and putting them under the rock the gig is on, or getting some more rock to elevate it's rock. From what I've read about them they like a lot A LOT of flow and pretty intense light. But don't put it in that high of light until you acclimate it to the light.

 

[Donly1]

I took some advice about the different test kits. I took my water 2 a couple of Lfs and watch them do a test. Both said that your water is perfect. They do not shake the bottle or the test tubes for nitrate after they cap them. The instructions clearly state to shake the nitrate tube for at least one minute. That's what I've been doing. I took my test kit which expires in 2017 and did a test, shaking the bottles a bit, and the nitrate tube for one full minute after dropping, and the another tube with no shaking. Welcome to find out the tube with no shaking looks awesome, but when you shake the nitrate tube for 1 minute after put the cap on it it shows almost 80 parts per million difference. Has anyone else had this issue?

 

[frog.pauley]

Yep, API test kits are tough to deal with...if it's showing that high with one, do a couple spaced out, do them all the same. Not sure if I missed it but did you treat prior to putting it in the displa? My gig is a barometer, if nitrate starts creeping up it gets fussy fast! But mine was treated and healthy when it went in.
Do a test, write down result, do a 50% water change and see if it went down around half of previous reading. I am currently doing the same thing. My gig is extremely upset over 20 ppm nitrate, also api kit.