blue tubbs partially open?

Moved the colony to the fast flow spot, eagle eyes colony is doing fine at that area. tubbs are still partially open. then I dipped the colony to coralRX solution for 7 minutes today. When I inspected the colony I found sponges in between polys. and sort of dark brown algae as well. Are those bothering polys and made them partially open?

not sure CoralRX will help on algae and sponge. maybe I should try hydrogen peroxide dip?

coral food is on the way.
 
Please remove the sponge using tweezers, slowly and carefully! After the Coral RX it's probably dead anyway.
Yes, some sponges can bother zoas a lot, depending on the species.
Some algae could bother the zoas too, but normally that happens only when there is excessive growth on them.
The picture in your first message didn't show excess algae.

I would remove all the sponge and allow the colony to rest for a week or so.
It could be the sponge.

Feed them small amounts when you get the food. :D

Grandis.
 
That will be a pain if I have to remove those sponge by tweezer . The polys are packed up. If I want to reach the bottom mat I have to push polys aside.
 
Yeah, I know...
That's why I wrote to be careful and do it slowly, so you don't hurt the polyps.
Get long tweezers, if you have. Tooth picks would help a bit too...
Or you can just leave the sponge there.
I'm not sure if it's dead, are you?

Some times the sponges attach to the zoas' stalks and if you rip the stalks off would be a disaster. Be careful!! Make sure the sponge isn't strongly attached to the polyps.

I do a lot of painful things for my zoas when it needs to be done.

I believe that removing the sponge would give the colony a relief because if the chemical of the sponge is irritating the polyps, it could still be there, sometimes even if the sponge is dead.

Grandis.
 
if coralRX and hydrogen peroxide dont' kill sponge, I am thinking to frag the mother colony to small pieces and get ride of sponges. This tubbs wraps a LR all the way around, not sure how easy to frag them by pulling mat off the rock. may lose some polys but better than losing the whole colony.

Grandis, i am sure the yellow sponge is not dead after dip, i will give colony a couple days to recover from the coralrx dip, then if they are still there, i will use hydrogen peroxide. I want to get rid of the algae thing between stalks as well. I know they are not excessive but it could be a problem as well.
 
I don't know if coral RX kills sponges.

I don't think it's a good idea to dip in peroxide so soon, unless the algae is really bothering the polyps. If that's minor I would leave.
To dip in anything in order to kill the sponge means that would be better to remove the dead sponge afterwords. If you need to remove the dead sponge afterwords I would remove it alive now and avoid dipping again.

To frag means the colony will be vulnerable to bacterial infection and will need more dipping. I would avoid fragging it for now.

It's so hard to say that the sponge is the culprit anyway.
We didn't even see the picture of the sponge yet.

I would just leave it alone for couple of days and see how things go.
I would act only if needed from now on.

Best,
Grandis.
 
not sure how long tubbs will need to recover from corarx dip. They were all closed right now. i left them in a fairly fast flow area.
 
yeah, i am dialing my dosing pump, alk is monitored every day recently.
i was struggling on 2 parts dosing for more than a year...., I think i just found the reason. my dosing pump delivers the solution on top of the filter floss, everytime when i replaced the filter floss i observed a think layer of "hard" shell, it very likely is precipitation
 
it has been 7-8dKH for last few month. With the overrated skimmer, my Nitrate is undetectable. Phosphate is not checked very regularly as i am tired with Hanna checker, that thing is a junk. even the low range one.
 
Try to make sure phosphates are low.
Make sure you do some water changes if needed.
Also, LEDs need to be according to what zoas you've got.
If you don't know what you are setting the light exactly, it could have negative effects on the zoas. Too much light or wrong spectrum is detrimental also. Too much blue is detrimental. The problem with most LED users is that they can't figure out the best combination between the percentage and spectrum. Even the pre-setting features don't have the graphics of the wavelengths to begin with.

Oh, there are so many things to think about...

Grandis.
 
Grandis, what did you mean "Too much blue is detrimental"? i do turn on blue bulbs 70%-80%, white only 50% which gives me a 14000K looking. Do you think too much blue light irritating the blue zoas?

maybe I should move a frag to other reefers' tank.
 
Theoretically too much blue is detrimental.
If you have a tank with absolutely no white, yes.
That's what I've meant.
Sorry, went too deep in writing my thoughts...
Some people thinks that because some blue is good (to the eyes and corals) they can have with no whites. That's not true. Blue is good, but the balance with the white is what makes it good.
A 14K look needs some white.

And by too much light I mean more than the sunlight emits.

Why move the frag? Please relax...
:thumbsup:

Grandis.
 
i have a mother colony and two small frags in my tank. the mother colony has like 300-400 polys, the frags have 30-50 polys. they are doing the same thing. actually, the frags looks better than mother colony. my idea was moving one small frag to other tank from our local club to see if different lighting makes difference.
 
I don't think it's the light. Could be... But most of the time, when the light is a problem, sooner or later the other zoas would reflect the problem as well.

Could be one of the params and if the other tank has better params then yours you would probably think that your light is no good?
Hummm...
I would fight to see what is the problem in your system rather than transferring the zoas...
You have solved a problem already with the alk dosing...

It takes time to see them getting better and find out really what's going on...

I didn't check the sponge problem out yet, once the sponge is still between the polyps and you're choosing not to remove them. So...

I've had colonies closed for many many months to finally have them reproducing and happy after a year. Perseverance...

Keep in mind that all we can try to help you here is with what we can think of.
We are not looking at the system and often don't know enough about it by what we can read, unfortunately.

Just relax and observe them. Make sure to test the params correctly and you'll probably find out...
Many agree that it's aways a quest to keep blue zoas happy.

Grandis.
 
Grandis, here is the pictures I took last night. They are still recovering from coralrx dip. Fed reefchilli and they ignored it. Need a better feeder tho.

from the pictures, there are plenty of brownish or greenish algae , plus yellow sponges. what do you recommends? how to get rid of algae between poloys? they are around all stalls, maybe that is why the zoa stalls are higher than other zoas! When they were open, you didn't see them. that is why I missed them.



 
They look pretty stressed and probably won't respond to the food while they are closed, of course.
Here is what I would do:
I would remove the algae and sponge as much as I could with the tweezes first.
Hydrogen Peroxide dip: 2 parts of tank water of 1 part of H2O2. Leave the polyps in for about 3 minutes and return to the system. The more you remove the algae/sponges with the tweezers the better.
Repeat after 2 days if necessary (hopefully not!).
I would make sure that the algae was removed manually so the mass is not there when it returns to the tank.
Bottom line is that the less you need to dip it the better chances it has to recover and to be free of the problem. They won't eat in that condition!
Good luck!

Grandis.
 
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