Bonzi Acro
- Thread starter alebrun
- Start date
Amphiprion
Premium Member
Seems to depend upon the species, etc. Some like high light, whereas others gain more color in dimmer light. My recommendation would be to try both and see what works best for the one you have.
Mine is in the middle of my tank (60g cube) but it too browned out and left it in the same spot and almost two months later it's bright purple with yellow tips again without ever moving it. My only problem is the base wasted away either due to my high dkh which is now down to 7 or AEFW. But even though it hasn't had the easiest run, it's coloring back up for me.
AcroporAddict
There is no substitute.
I have always had trouble with GARF Bonsai. I just got a couple new pieces of it today. My tank is high light and ultra high flow. So this time I have it low in the tank in a corner, partially shaded.
Amphiprion
Premium Member
I think we are definitely seeing the variability here. I have a little 1" piece that started out tan with small, but vivid purple tips that was under some weaker LEDs. Under my 250w 10K halides (tank is only ~12" deep in this spot on the sand), the purple faded to a lighter shade, but the overall coverage of purple increased. Whereas the color was isolated at the tips, the frag is just about entirely light purple with darker purple tips. Only the shaded portions are tan and/or whitish.
Dapg8gt
New member
I have mine top dead center of the tank and what I really see with it is nutrients play the biggest role in the coloration for me.. When they are low the purple lightens up when they are a little higher I get the dark purple slap your mama coloration on it =)..
Low nutrients in my tank are higher than others reccomend though but just sharing what I see. Right now my tank is running at n03 =2-3 and p04. . 03-05..and that's low for me..
Low nutrients in my tank are higher than others reccomend though but just sharing what I see. Right now my tank is running at n03 =2-3 and p04. . 03-05..and that's low for me..
Akrite
New member
I completely agree with the above statement. Your coral is starving. Feed your tank more and or add more fish. Maybe feed coral food if you don't want to add more fish, but start slow so you don't get unwanted algae or red/brown slime. What is your stock list and tank size?
A lot of people believe that keeping NO3 and PO4 at zero are what you need to keep a successful sps tank. While it's good to start their your corals need to eat to survive and display their beautiful colors. Fish waste is the easiest way next is add coral food but you must find the right balance for your tank. I recommend starting at 1/4 or 1/2 the recommended dose see how your tank responds and go form there.
xtlosx
Just Reefin'
I'm going through this right now actually, and 100% agree. I had battled the biggest cyano problem for about a year, then red bugs, then after red bug treatment die off of pods, etc led to cyano + hair algae. Through all of this I have been exotic rare acros, LPS, etc. I have a garf bonzai half way up my tank which is basically colorless but have beautiful bright green polyps. I have one on the sad bed which came from a buddies tank that has green polyps, but almost no color in its body. My tank is being kept at .00 po4 and no nitrates to get rid of the cyano\hair algae, which is almost, almost almost gone.... Once I get it controlled I am planning on adding another couple fish, feeding more, etc. So while it's great to have no phosphates and nitrates in theory, like everyone said, corals are animals too and they 'gotta eat.
I'm stuck in a catch-22 though... Either I feed a lot more and possibly fuel the algae I'm trying to control, or starve them and then start from a good baseline. I'm choosing the latter.
Dapg8gt
New member
A lot of people believe that keeping NO3 and PO4 at zero are what you need to keep a successful sps tank
I personally think this is one of the worst trends to ever make it into the hobby(yet I'm tired of even saying it because it's like so frowned upon to even suggest anything higher to some people because they read it in an article so it has to be corrwct) along with the fear of algae.. If it grows there is something that will eat it imo.. Totally agree with akrite =)
I personally think this is one of the worst trends to ever make it into the hobby(yet I'm tired of even saying it because it's like so frowned upon to even suggest anything higher to some people because they read it in an article so it has to be corrwct) along with the fear of algae.. If it grows there is something that will eat it imo.. Totally agree with akrite =)
Peter Eichler
New member
I agree for the most part. PO4 usually needs to be kept in check some way if you're feeding your fish well. GFO, lanthanum chloride, chaeto in a refugium are part of most successful SPS tanks long term. I'm wrapping up an experiment on how long I can go without GFO after seeing mostly positive results from running it sporadically, and I am going to have a bit of a long road back and am dealing with cyanobacteria for the first time in many years. The lack of a PO4 export is the only change, and I'm hoping it subsides fairly quickly after I get GFO back on line.
