Gillguy
New member
Hi Aprilia, you should go with 90 degree lenses on all leds except reds.
Bought new led light fixture from China.
- Thread starter Gillguy
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Hi Aprilia, you should go with 90 degree lenses on all leds except reds.
Gillguy
New member
Conix I personally would not get two reds on each cluster unless you have very few corals. One red with a 120 optic on each cluster will be plenty and you can take advantage of more blue leds. Just my 2 cents.
Gillguy
New member
Chris, I posted this link on post #141. Many places sell them. Here is a link to an ebay store.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-pcs-frost...112?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a0ff90ba0
alan.reef
New member
[/I]I'm totally in for a gb. Shipping would save tons alone. If we want to get it together in the next week or so that would be great.
im in..to try
Thanks. I changed my mind on reds after more research. Now, I'm thinking of
CH1 - 6 x white (12000K)
CH2 - 6 x blue
CH3 - 6 x royal blue
CH4 - 2 x green + 4 x UV (or violet)
Not sure if all LEDs can be driven at the same power (A) so I'd like to keep each channel with the same type of LED to maximize power (may not be even necessary) and extend the spectrum below 470nm and add some greens for corals with green florescence pigments..
and my tank is only 21" deep, and thinking of going no-lens on all LEDs. Are the lens easy to remove?
Gillguy
New member
Conix that layout will work just fine. I don't know how high of the water your unit will be but even it's close I recommend 120 lenses. It blends the colors better. If you decide to remove them it's very simple.
Here's the hopefully the final layout for me. The fixture will sit about 10" above water, so I'll go with the 120 deg lenses as suggested.
By the way, I'll need to use DIY program on the smart controller. How do you program each channels? Do you set time and intensity (%) and it automatically ramps up/down (linearly) from one control point to another?
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Gillguy
New member
Yes it automatically increases by 1% until the next programmed point.
My only issue with this LED unit is no moonlighting 
that's a big problem for me.
My current k4 LED has an SPS power bar (basically 1w leds I think) and they operate as moonlighting.
This ledzeal unit advertises lunar cycle, how is that possible if you cannot use it for moonlight?
that's a big problem for me.My current k4 LED has an SPS power bar (basically 1w leds I think) and they operate as moonlighting.
This ledzeal unit advertises lunar cycle, how is that possible if you cannot use it for moonlight?
Have you gotten any traction on this? I may be interested....
Fuzzy
New member
Yes, I'll be joining zab34 once I hear back from "Kevin" about pricing and accessories. We're both on the RC ORCA club forum from the Orlando area.
I'm going to buy a S-200 to try it out on half of my tank to see how I like the difference between my MH/T5 set up. I'll probably order a few extra 120* lenses to play around with the coverage. After reading a lot of this thread, I'll probably go with at least a 2.5:1 blue white ratio.
Gillguy are you able to do a quick video without the t5's. Just the led unit running at your normal settings. Just want to get a feel for the colour it produces.
Also can you explain how you've got each channel setup and intensity settings for each per 24hrs and what times for each intensity etc.
Thanks mate.
Also can you explain how you've got each channel setup and intensity settings for each per 24hrs and what times for each intensity etc.
Thanks mate.
Fuzzy
New member
I've been in touch with Kevin, and have put together my order. You weren't kidding about fast replies!
Here is what I'm going to order:
1 - S200 Fixture with 90* lenses, hanging kit, and back up remote, configured per attached layout: 1*258 USD
1 - Wired Controller: 1*55 USD
4 - 120* Lenses : 1 USD
2 - UV LED's : 3 USD
2 - RED LED's: 2USD
Total: 319USD
This is their 35" fixture, it will cover half of our 72" x 24" x 18" 150gal tank. I'm leaving the other half with my MH/T5/Power Brite Deep Blue LED set up. This way I can do a side by side comparison and decide if the LED's are right for me. I "borrowed" sharkies layout in post # 56 as I like a bluer tank. I'm also ordering a few extra bits to play around with the configuration. If there are any other Orlando area reefers who want to go in with the order it will save us some on shipping. Zab34 and I are going to order on Monday.
Kinda excited to start tinkering with the tank again :thumbsup:
Needless to say I'll post pictures once it's up and running
Here is what I'm going to order:
1 - S200 Fixture with 90* lenses, hanging kit, and back up remote, configured per attached layout: 1*258 USD
1 - Wired Controller: 1*55 USD
4 - 120* Lenses : 1 USD
2 - UV LED's : 3 USD
2 - RED LED's: 2USD
Total: 319USD
This is their 35" fixture, it will cover half of our 72" x 24" x 18" 150gal tank. I'm leaving the other half with my MH/T5/Power Brite Deep Blue LED set up. This way I can do a side by side comparison and decide if the LED's are right for me. I "borrowed" sharkies layout in post # 56 as I like a bluer tank. I'm also ordering a few extra bits to play around with the configuration. If there are any other Orlando area reefers who want to go in with the order it will save us some on shipping. Zab34 and I are going to order on Monday.
Kinda excited to start tinkering with the tank again :thumbsup:
Needless to say I'll post pictures once it's up and running
Gillguy
New member
Even at 1% it's too bright for moonlighting. However, if that's important to you then there are many small inexpensive blue led strips that can give you that affect.
Gillguy
New member
Ok as far as my DIY settings, Channel #1 (all blue) and channel #3 (Blue & UV) turn on at 6:30 am and slowly ramp up to a maximum 75% by 11:30 am. Those two channels stay at 75% for five hours and start decreasing back to 0% by 8:00 pm. There are eight settings. (The settings are called Sequences.) Like I have mentioned before, all four channels must be programmed to have the first and the last settings at 0%. This is because if one of them is at any percentage the unit will continue to reach for that goal. However, the other six settings can be set at any time and percentage and the unit will increase by 1% until it reaches it. For example, here are the DIY settings for the two channels I mentioned above, 6:30 am 0%, 8:00 am 20%, 9:00 am 35%, 10:00 am 55%, 11:30 75%, 4:30 pm 75%, 6:30 pm 35%, 8:00 pm 0%.
Channel #2 (all white) turn on at 8:00 am and ramp up to 70% at 12:00 pm. It stays at 70% for four hours till 4:00 pm. Then it decreases to 0% by 7:00 pm. Channel #4 (four blue & one red & one green) turn on at 9:00 am and increases to a maximum of 45 % at 12:00 pm. It stays at 45% four hours till 4:00 pm and then decreases to 0% by 6:00 pm. The settings for these two channels are similar to the pattern of the first two.
I still use three T-5’s. I am down to three hours total. They come on at 12:00 pm and turn off at 3:00 pm. It’s more of a midday affect. If I could eventually ramp up the LEDS to 90% I believe I can remove the T-5’s but the last time I increased to 80% on the first three channels my top corals became stressed out. I might have to slowly increase the channels by 1% per week for acclimation. When I got the unit I started at 40% and increased by 5% weekly till 75% and then 80% and that’s when I noticed the lights were too powerful and backed off. Most of my corals are encrusted and can’t be moved lower. Even if I could move them, I have no room for them. I might need to try different optics, 90 or 120 for the back rows because it’s those LEDS that are closest to the SPS in the back and top of the tank. Hope that answers your question.
I will do another post today with a video showing the tank lights with my current DIY settings with and without T-5’s and also the unit with and without T-5’s at 100% on all channels.
Gillguy
New member
Originally Posted by Silfer View Post
Gillguy are you able to do a quick video without the T5's. Just the led unit running at your normal settings. Just want to get a feel for the colour it produces.
Here is a link to Youtube of a short video of my tank with my current settings with and without T-5's. Also the unit at 100% with and without T-5. I don't have access to a good video recorder. I used my Samsung cell phone so the quality is not the best but it works for the comparison purposes. The tank actually looks bluer without the T-5's on than what the video portrays it's just the camera.You'll notice that the T-5's don't make much of a difference. It just adds a more bluer tone to the tank which I like. I currently have 2 ATI blue pluses and one actinic.
You can also see that I get full coverage from a 4 foot unit on a five foot tank. My lights are 12 inches from the water line with 60 degree optics. At the right bottom of the video you can see the third switch from right to left turns on and off on my ADJ power Rackmount. It's the switch that controls the T-5's
Most of you have seen my layout and I have mentioned that it's still whiter than I like. I have a 2.5:1 ratio on the blues to white. For myself in a trial, I increased the blues to 95% and left the whites to 70% and I almost got the same color as with the T-5's but like I have mentioned before, when I tried increasing the blues the corals showed stress. Hope the video helps most of you undecided. The ones that like the blueish 18000k look might think of 3:1 ratio.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VZgoF5noHdw
Gillguy are you able to do a quick video without the T5's. Just the led unit running at your normal settings. Just want to get a feel for the colour it produces.
Here is a link to Youtube of a short video of my tank with my current settings with and without T-5's. Also the unit at 100% with and without T-5. I don't have access to a good video recorder. I used my Samsung cell phone so the quality is not the best but it works for the comparison purposes. The tank actually looks bluer without the T-5's on than what the video portrays it's just the camera.You'll notice that the T-5's don't make much of a difference. It just adds a more bluer tone to the tank which I like. I currently have 2 ATI blue pluses and one actinic.
You can also see that I get full coverage from a 4 foot unit on a five foot tank. My lights are 12 inches from the water line with 60 degree optics. At the right bottom of the video you can see the third switch from right to left turns on and off on my ADJ power Rackmount. It's the switch that controls the T-5's
Most of you have seen my layout and I have mentioned that it's still whiter than I like. I have a 2.5:1 ratio on the blues to white. For myself in a trial, I increased the blues to 95% and left the whites to 70% and I almost got the same color as with the T-5's but like I have mentioned before, when I tried increasing the blues the corals showed stress. Hope the video helps most of you undecided. The ones that like the blueish 18000k look might think of 3:1 ratio.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VZgoF5noHdw
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Gillguy. I didn't realize you still had the T-5 on. I set the same configuration for the LEDs. But I don't have any T-5. Channel 1"“3 80%. Channel 2 65%and channel 4 at 45%.should my goal be to reach 90 % on channel 1, 2 and 3? My tank is 23 inch deep X 3 feet so the S200 fits from side to side with 60 optics. Reds and green 120 optics. Lights are on the brackets hanging on the tank so the LEDs are about 4 to 6 inch off the water. Also I have a thin glass top so Wrasse won't jump out. What is your suggestion? Should I slowly start to increase channel 1tru 3? Now I have some coral in the tank.
Gillguy
New member
Yes you should do it gradually. Your goal should be to use the highest possible intensity your corals can handle this will also give the highest par. Most units sold out there no matter the brand rarely are used at 100%. The last thing you want is to bleach your corals. Right now mine can't take anything over 75%. It's going to be different for everyone depending on corals species and placement. My goal is to reach 90%.
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