Bought new led light fixture from China.
- Thread starter Gillguy
- Start date
I've been following this thread and saving money for an s300. So while I wait, I did some research and found some good info that I would like to share with anyone interested.
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2012/10/aafeature
In this artice they build a fixture based on the research in the first article.
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2012/10/aafeature
Things that stand out.
They use more UV LEDS then any fixture ive seen so far. They build a 12 LED circular cluster. Each Cluster contains the following.
1 400-410nm
2 410-420nm
1 420-430nm
2 Cool white
2 royal blue
1 Blue
1 cyan 500nm
1 red 630-645nm
1 amber
Based on their research the 400 to 430nm range gives the corals the pop we are looking for but without the blue windex look that you get from using too many royal blues.
They claim this combo creates a full spectrum light.
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2012/10/aafeature
In this artice they build a fixture based on the research in the first article.
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2012/10/aafeature
Things that stand out.
They use more UV LEDS then any fixture ive seen so far. They build a 12 LED circular cluster. Each Cluster contains the following.
1 400-410nm
2 410-420nm
1 420-430nm
2 Cool white
2 royal blue
1 Blue
1 cyan 500nm
1 red 630-645nm
1 amber
Based on their research the 400 to 430nm range gives the corals the pop we are looking for but without the blue windex look that you get from using too many royal blues.
They claim this combo creates a full spectrum light.
Who are "they"? The second link is the same as the first link, can you post the second one?
I read this article before purchasing mine. The article suggests 400-500nm spectrum is critical, and the lighting system should focus on this range, so I removed greens/reds and added more UVs. The blue windex look is ok, since that's what you're getting at certain depth in ocean.
As for this "full spectrum" trend, my impression is that it's more for overall look than corals health.
Adding more UV is a smart move. and yes remove the green and add turquise 495nm or cyan 510nm or both
That fills in the upper portion of their needs.And yes the full spectrum is for overall look.
Chlorophyll A does best in wavelengths from 380nm through to 440nm. There is a peak at 410nm and a large spike at 430nm. Now this is in the blue side of spectrum. Chlorophyll A goes onto to look for more red light at 662nm.
Chlorophyll B peaks 453nm and again at 642nm.
So what we want is a fixture that produces light from 400 to 500nm then a smaller spike at 660nm with a large dip in between from 500 to 600 the yellow/orange range.
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Themonsterisme
New member
I have a 72"L x 30"H x 24"D tank...do they make a single fixture that would work for my tank?
MRCYCS805
Member
Im pretty sure the largest one is s400 60" fixture
Themonsterisme
New member
MRCYCS805
Member
With 120* optics i think it would be fine you would lose a lil par off the sides or maybe 2-of the 3' fixtures daisy chained with 90* optics or maybe 2-s400's cause the width of your tank maybe Gillguy will chime in hes the ledzeal master on here lol
Themonsterisme
New member
Gillguy
New member
Conix is correct. No need to over analyze this. You want to be within the 400-500nm range for what corals need. Reds and greens are just for visual taste. All corals are different and they require different light so as long as you are within this range they will be getting what they need. That's why some mixed reef tanks do better with SPS than LPS or vice versa. It's because one spectrum dominates the other and some corals don't get enough of what they need. You need to know what species you have and what their light requirements are. Of course having the right spectrum doesn't guaranty success unless all other chemistry parameters are good.
ahmed_iAM
New member
Here's the information I got from Kevin.
It is 429 for S400+ 95*wireless controller + 115 shipping fedex= 639 USD.
(Wired controller is $40 less)
*
2) How much would it cost if I bought 2 to 4 units w/ a customized layout and optics?
398 USD / unit with customized layout and optics, each unit shipping is 80 USD
*
3) Can I exchange the Bridgelux whites for CREE LEDs? Thanks!
It is ok to change to Cree,*each led* need extra 1.5 USD /*pcs*. But cannot only change white to Cree*cause the PCB and lens is different from Bridgelux and other leds in*one unit.
So need to be all Cree led and no UV Cree .*
*
Gillguy
New member
Your problem would be the 30 Height and the 24 Deep. The S400 is fine for the 72 L. To get full coverage with one unit you would need 120 optics but you lose par at the bottom due to the 30 inches. I believe some people have bought one unit with tanks at 24 inch deep and maybe they can chime in if they have full coverage front to back with 120 optics and at what height they have their units.
Not true red is used by corals
Chlorophyll A does best in wavelengths from 380nm through to 440nm. There is a peak at 410nm and a large spike at 430nm. Now this is in the blue side of spectrum. Chlorophyll A goes onto to look for more red light at 662nm.
Chlorophyll B peaks 453nm and again at 642nm.
I bring this up due to my own experience. I have been running evergrow LEDs over my tank for 1.5 years. I wasnt noticing much growth.
I started out with a 1:1 ratio of CW 12000k to RB. That was way too white. So I went to a 3:1 ratio RB to CW. But still not much growth.
When I added the UV and red 660nm the corals responded with growth.
I agree not hard science but many newer LED fixtures are coming out now with more UV and red then the older systems. If they are doing their own research they are coming to the same conclusions.
When I buy my s300 it will look like this.
6 UV 420nm
8 RB 450 nm
2 blue 465nm
4 white NW
2 turquoise 495nm
2 red 669nm
I started out with a 1:1 ratio of CW 12000k to RB. That was way too white. So I went to a 3:1 ratio RB to CW. But still not much growth.
When I added the UV and red 660nm the corals responded with growth.
I agree not hard science but many newer LED fixtures are coming out now with more UV and red then the older systems. If they are doing their own research they are coming to the same conclusions.
When I buy my s300 it will look like this.
6 UV 420nm
8 RB 450 nm
2 blue 465nm
4 white NW
2 turquoise 495nm
2 red 669nm
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Gillguy
New member
Here's some hard science. Reds are only needed in small amounts and you can that from your white leds. Too much red can actually kill your corals. It's a science written article but well worth reading, however if you don't want to read it all, just read the results section.
http://www.plosone.org/article/info:doi/10.1371/journal.pone.0092781
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I would go with the 400 and 90 optics for the depth you have,unless you want multiple fixture. If you go with 120 degree optics and your tank is 30" deep I don't think you will get the penetration you want. I got 120 on mine and it is only 24 deep and would like a little more penetration. but I have a 30" front to back and would get poor coverage that way if I went with different optics.
Jwey
New member
So I am getting closer to ordering the S200 LED Lights.
I am still struggling on the best optics to use on the 240 Gal. Its 8 foot long x 2 x 2 and the lights will be 5" from the water because of the canopy they will mount to. I will cut in holes for the fans.
I think if I go with 120deg on the outside and use some 90deg I can get the proper light.
Here are 2 Plans/Ideas
Am I over thinking this?
I am still struggling on the best optics to use on the 240 Gal. Its 8 foot long x 2 x 2 and the lights will be 5" from the water because of the canopy they will mount to. I will cut in holes for the fans.
I think if I go with 120deg on the outside and use some 90deg I can get the proper light.
Here are 2 Plans/Ideas
Am I over thinking this?
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