Boyds Chemi-clean

jay357

New member
Hello:

I have a Cyno bacteria outbreat and am using Chemi-clean by Boyds to help get rid of it. I have already attacked the problem with diligent siphoning, added a refugium and replaced my bulbs but its taken over my refugium. I added Chemi-clean and am wondering if I need to skim while this stuff is working for 2 days? I removed all carbon already but my skimmer is going nuts. Its a remora pro so I can just rair the collection cup and still manage the skimmate by dumping it once a day. Should I do this or is this just removing the cleaning agents or should I turn off the skimmer for the 2 days?

Thanks

Jay
 
Turn off the skimmer. It will just overflow every ten minutes. You may have to leave it off for a few days then gradually run it until it stabilizes. I use Chemi Clean almost every water change.
Paul
 
Paul you use chemi clean on that gorgeous tank.... I think you may be confused with Boyds Chemi Pure(carbon)...i bet that is what you use
 
No I am not confused. Chemi Clean. My tank is very old and there is a lot of crud everywhere. Chemi Clean keeps the cyano in check. I don't get much but I do get a little.
I love the stuff. I wrote to them to tell them it is the only product I have ever tried that actually does what it says.
Paul
 
Paul, do you have SPS and if you do, does the chemi-clean cause them to RTN? Happened to some SPS frags I had. They never recovered.
 
Chemi-clean was perfectly safe for my reef, with sps and lps. The only problem was the pods and my shrimp, which took a heavy hit, either from the cyano or from the Chemi-clean itself. The emerald crab, unfortunately, survived---natch.

You should not run the skimmer while it's doing its thing. But once it is time for the treatment to end, turn it on and stand by to empty the collection cup a lot. You'll need your water-change water, too. I think it wants a 40% change on the water, but read your instructions for that.

I have not had any recurrance since.
 
Follow the instructions on the package 20% water change after 24hrs, no skimming UV or charcole either. I've used this many times and tried my own thing, skimming during treatment ect... By far my best results were by following the mfg. recomandations.
 
I just dosed the Chemi-clean last night. I'll report later what the results are. I plan on changing more than 20% of the water. I have a total water volume of about 111 gallons. I plan to do a 30 gallon water change.

I may have shot myself in the foot. I forget to take the carbon out, but it's been in there a month and is probably pretty maxed out already. Hopefully it didn't absorb too much.
 
Would turning off a phosban reactor be a good or bad idea during treatment? I would think that as the cyano dies and releases phosphates it might be good for something to attempt to absorb it before it becomes organic phosphate on the rocks.
 
This might be a shot in the dark but I asked Boomer about this in general terms.

I've noticed that around this time every year (depending on weather and temperature) many people seem to get cyano outbreaks a lot. Even when different water sources are used (RO/DI, RO only, tap water only, DI only)from very different areas.

My guess is ozone might have something to do with it? It may sound far-fetched but there doesn't seem to be any other correlation for the consistency factor.

Boomer said that ozone can have something to do with it but it's not known why yet. That was in reference to cyano not necessarily the time (season) factor.
 
I was seriously wondering if it was the increase of sunlight. Most tanks do recieve indirect sunlight. The increase of intensity and photo period may be the cause.

I have found cyano growing in a little spot on my cryptic fuge that gets a very, very small amount of indirect sunlight. I have the entire tank tin-foiled off except for a side that faces away from any windows, in a dark part of my basement. Yet, it is enough light to get a few small patches of cyano.
 
serioussnaps, I'm real suspicious that it was the Chemi-clean that got the pods. I had such a good bloom of them, too. It's cost me a bit to get them built up again, which is why I'd have to be bad-off to consider another dose. I've since gotten a Sea Swirl, which helps a lot with flow.
 
RE the sun and ozone: I can say I got my outbreak after a double event: sunlight crept in via precession [the sun 'moves' by seasons] that I didn't realize was going on because I'm out of the house during those hours; and the actinics got left on all night. [Timers are your friend.] I tried upping flow. I tried reduced photo period. I tried no-food. Inexorably, what still followed was the mild brown patch, followed by the mega-cyano event of brown sheets and bubbles. So there's something to be said for these theories about seasonality.
 
I turned my skimmer back on last night. I had to really lower the water level to keep it from just constantly over-flowing. I have emptied the cup twice. I am doing the water change as soon as I get off work. That will be about 48 hours since I added the Chemi-clean.

wish me luck!
 
During these outbreaks I do the opposite of what's suggested. I INCREASE my feedings which jump starts the nitrogen cycle. It's worked twice now two years in a row. I can't see using chemicals that a) cost good money and b) rarely ever solve the problem.
 
Well, I have tried everything over the last year or more trying to get rid of cyano. Nothing seems to fix it. The only thing that has helped at all is shutting off the lights and covering the tanks in aluminum foil for 3 to 4 days. That does get rid of it for a few weeks, but it always comes back.

I am in the process of building a phos-ban type reactor right now also.
 
Man oh man....indirect sunlight does not cause cyano, nor does ozone....there are many things which can contribute to a cyano outbreak but arent the cause...the cause is that there are alot of nutrients available ie nitrate and phosphate...if you do large water changes the right way and use RO/DI, have a great skimmer and skim it aggressively, keep a good flow in the system, and dont OVERFEED or OVERSTOCK along with many other remedies like carbon and poly filters, phoshpate removers...you wont see cyano

This is a fact not a conspiracy theory
 
Oh and just because a package says "wont harm" "reef safe" "doesnt harm bacteria" etc etc.... it doesnt mean it wont

If you were a pod...would you want to bathe in chemi clean? A thriving environment is a replication of nature to what degree you can...and no where is there a thriving reef where chemi clean is present...just a thought
 
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