Brainstorming
- Thread starter jfl14609
- Start date
LOL, yes it does sound pretty str8 forward.I just through the arcitech thing just in case,I was pretty sure you had it under control though.
It sounds nice I wish you were closer to syracuse I'd love to help out.
Looking forward to the build thread.
block head
New member
my step sister is an ac/heating engineer. i asked her about a similar project a while back. might want to look at a having a pro reccomend a venting/heating/cooling solution.
Sir Edward
New member
The extra room idea is good. Just some thoughts,
1. When cutting out for the hole, use double 2'-8" Pine with 1/2" plywood in the middle. This will give you the 3 1/2" standard stud width. Supported with double cripplers.
2. There is these small electric heaters that are in wall units. So, when completed they are flush with the wall. They only draw 12 amps so a dedicated 15 amp breaker will work nicely. Of course with the thought you have an open bay in your panel box.
3. The garage side of the wall, use house wrap and tape all seams. This will relieve any worries of garage type fumes entering the room.
4. Insulation (R19) for the 2 -6" new wall will work. I would sheetrock it with M/R (moisture resistant).
5. I would invest in a chiller. I have one on mine, which is into my family room where the pellet stove is. This will stop the water temp fluctuations. I'm really glad I bought mine.
6. A small exhaust fan ,hmmm. Just not up with that.
I think I would consider cutting 2, 8" - 12" opening into the existing wall, maybe 6" from the ceiling and install vent grilles. This will allow the moisture to re-enter the house, which where the moisture goes for all in room tanks.
Just some of my thoughts . .
1. When cutting out for the hole, use double 2'-8" Pine with 1/2" plywood in the middle. This will give you the 3 1/2" standard stud width. Supported with double cripplers.
2. There is these small electric heaters that are in wall units. So, when completed they are flush with the wall. They only draw 12 amps so a dedicated 15 amp breaker will work nicely. Of course with the thought you have an open bay in your panel box.
3. The garage side of the wall, use house wrap and tape all seams. This will relieve any worries of garage type fumes entering the room.
4. Insulation (R19) for the 2 -6" new wall will work. I would sheetrock it with M/R (moisture resistant).
5. I would invest in a chiller. I have one on mine, which is into my family room where the pellet stove is. This will stop the water temp fluctuations. I'm really glad I bought mine.
6. A small exhaust fan ,hmmm. Just not up with that.
I think I would consider cutting 2, 8" - 12" opening into the existing wall, maybe 6" from the ceiling and install vent grilles. This will allow the moisture to re-enter the house, which where the moisture goes for all in room tanks.
Just some of my thoughts . .
<<<<3. The garage side of the wall, use house wrap and tape all seams. This will relieve any worries of garage type fumes entering the room.>>>>
Im not sure if your refering to sheetrock here if so I'd agree the seams should all be taped on both sides of the wall.
Tyvec (housewrap) is designed to allow gas exchange so I wouldn't rely on it for fumes.
Im not sure if your refering to sheetrock here if so I'd agree the seams should all be taped on both sides of the wall.
Tyvec (housewrap) is designed to allow gas exchange so I wouldn't rely on it for fumes.
Sir Edward
New member
With the garage not heated, on the new wall, use a standard 1/2" plywood for you garage side wall. Install house-wrap and tape any seams. Then use a nice finish 1/2" plywood (stagger the seams). Now you can just paint the new wall. Inside wall, use the M/R sheetrock, tape, mud and sand seams.
superkat
Premium Member
ding ding ding...we have a winner. Best idea yet.
jfl14609
Active member
but that would get rid of the fireproofing
Willistein
Active member
1/2" MR drywall on the inside, 5/8" sheetrock on the garage side. No need to complicate it.
Sir Edward
New member
With a unheated garage, the sheetrock on the outside wall will not hold up. The original interior wall should already have the double 5/8" fire retardant rock. This will follow NYS codes.
pimpinitup6969
New member
My family owns contracting and real estate businesses and i have never seen a problem with sheetrock not holding up because a garage wasnt heated....
Sir Edward
New member
It retains moisture, over longevity, moisture will slowly deteriorate the material. Mold will form if not on the exposed side, (which can be keep cleaned and painted)defiantly on the non visible side. Of course, you can use the M/R rock, but for me, I like the use of finished plywood. In a garage, it looks good, you can install a good vapor wrap (to keep unwanted fumes from living space). It can handle more abuse from the normal banging around that happens in a garage. If a customer came to me for this type of project, this is what route I would suggest.
<<<<
Where is all this moisture coming from?
I can only think of 2 ways moisture like that is going to be an issue.Installing the sheetrock without leaving it up a half inch or so from the slab whitch might lead to capillary action (wicking )
Exposer to high humidity over long periods would be another ,living in the Northeast I dont see an issue ,its not like were in Louisianna.Around 32 degrees and theres 0 moisture in the air,spring & fall are mild with humidity ,summer with higher humidity is usually hit and miss.Again I dont see an issue here.
Im not disagreeing with the use of plywood seems a fine plan either way.
>>>>
Where is all this moisture coming from?
I can only think of 2 ways moisture like that is going to be an issue.Installing the sheetrock without leaving it up a half inch or so from the slab whitch might lead to capillary action (wicking )
Exposer to high humidity over long periods would be another ,living in the Northeast I dont see an issue ,its not like were in Louisianna.Around 32 degrees and theres 0 moisture in the air,spring & fall are mild with humidity ,summer with higher humidity is usually hit and miss.Again I dont see an issue here.
Im not disagreeing with the use of plywood seems a fine plan either way.
My garage has sheetrock all around. The sides rest on top of the cinder blocks that were part of the construction of the house, the rear which shares the wall with my living room goes right to the ground. House built in 85 - no issues with any mold. When I installed the heater and ran the gas lines I had to cut open a section and it's clean as a whistle.
Sir Edward
New member
I guess everyone is just thinking in general. Why I propose plywood instead of sheetrock is due to the application. A 6' room constructed into the garage area is planned to hold a 220 salt water system. So that is what I am basing my thoughts on. I'm just thinking of the good possibilities of excessive moisture, as well as a need to keep garage fumes/oders away from the room. A good exterior house wrap with a finished plywood application would be my recommendations for the exterior of the wall. R19 insulation, with M/R sheetrock on the inside. I would add a chiller for the system to combat the heat and a couple of vent grilles coming back into the living space to help disperse the moisture.
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