Breeding My Onyx Clowns Again

No nothing is wrong with that.The only thing is,is WC pairs of Black Ocellaris are very rare.And its generally hard to get them without connections.I know I can get them from 5 undisclosed places at this point.And for a pet store(if thats were you got them from)to get in a pair of WC's it would then be VERY rare.

Im not saying that they arent its just they are quite hard to come by.I think WDLV is the only one on here that has them.

Please dont take offence to me asking that.
 
clowns101 said:
No nothing is wrong with that.The only thing is,is WC pairs of Black Ocellaris are very rare.And its generally hard to get them without connections.I know I can get them from 5 undisclosed places at this point.And for a pet store(if thats were you got them from)to get in a pair of WC's it would then be VERY rare.

Im not saying that they arent its just they are quite hard to come by.I think WDLV is the only one on here that has them.

Please dont take offence to me asking that.
Click to expand...

I'm not offended at all. Don't worry. :lolspin:
They weren't sold as a pair, but when I asked if they were bonded they said yes, so I spend 3 months of allowance in advance. I have had them for 18 months, and over the time they have grown into a true pair, and they are at the point where they may breed at any moment. :celeb3:
 
WaffleWalffle22 said:
How long did it take for your pair to start breeding? How big were yours when you got them? Any other info you think I may be interested in would be great. Thanks!
Click to expand...

It was about 18 months before they started breeding. I reared the young for a couple years then stopped. They stopped laying eggs a couple stretches due to some bold/aggressive tank mates over the years. I just started rearing their eggs again - rough tank mates gone now. I've had them 7 years in total. Female was 2" when I got her. She's 3.5" now and probably 2 times the girth. Male was 1" when I got him and now he is probably 1.75". His girth really hasn't changed.
 
"I think WDLV is the only one on here that has them."

No he's not :) I have a pair and they are breeding...

JJ Ocean congrats on your breeding. It looks like its going pretty well. I love the juvies in the BTA. Is the BTA just under a regular light or is it T5? I'd love to put some BTA's in my growout but I don't want to kill them. I have a suggestion to make your life a bit easier. I don't use BBS at all I go from Rots to Oto A. Its alot easier.
 
Great idea with the bta in the growout box, I have read having a host in juvinile stages of life will aid in accepting a host down the road. Does anyone know how true this is? How much does a wild caught pair of black occelaris go for? just curiouse, thanks yas.
 
rkelman said:
"I think WDLV is the only one on here that has them."

No he's not :) I have a pair and they are breeding...

JJ Ocean congrats on your breeding. It looks like its going pretty well. I love the juvies in the BTA. Is the BTA just under a regular light or is it T5? I'd love to put some BTA's in my growout but I don't want to kill them. I have a suggestion to make your life a bit easier. I don't use BBS at all I go from Rots to Oto A. Its alot easier.
Click to expand...

It is going well, but I lost several in an ammonia spike in my grow out. The BTA is in my refugium under pc 6700K at 12" depth. I wouldn't put him in my grow out, but my fuge is fine - he was in there already. The clowns stop the "ball" schooling from the grow out and act just like the larger clowns in the nem. If it wasn't hard to count them before, it is impossible now with them hidden in the tentacles.

Do you have good results w/ Oto A? I'm very tired of the BBS and their nutritional value is not that high. I've been mixing crushed flake and the fine stuff strained from rod's food. How long do you feed them the Oto A before you move on to something else? When you change from Oto A, what do you go to?

Thanks,
John
 
JJ Ocean said:
It was about 18 months before they started breeding. I reared the young for a couple years then stopped. They stopped laying eggs a couple stretches due to some bold/aggressive tank mates over the years. I just started rearing their eggs again - rough tank mates gone now. I've had them 7 years in total. Female was 2" when I got her. She's 3.5" now and probably 2 times the girth. Male was 1" when I got him and now he is probably 1.75". His girth really hasn't changed.
Click to expand...

OK thanks! I knew my clowns were nearing the breeding point. I think they may have already mated at night and ate the eggs. I made a video and put it on YouTube. It looks like breeding to me, but there weren't eggs in the morning. This was a few months ago. Here's the link...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9LYyqNeCvSs
 
I like the grow out box and the anemone. I have 2 small Rod's onyx clowns and was wonder what size is okay to put them in my main 180 gal tank? Right now they are about 3/4" long.
Mark
 
rkelman said:
"I think WDLV is the only one on here that has them."

No he's not :) I have a pair and they are breeding...

JJ Ocean congrats on your breeding. It looks like its going pretty well. I love the juvies in the BTA. Is the BTA just under a regular light or is it T5? I'd love to put some BTA's in my growout but I don't want to kill them. I have a suggestion to make your life a bit easier. I don't use BBS at all I go from Rots to Oto A. Its alot easier.
Click to expand...

Im so sorry rkelman.I didnt know your were wild.Thats what happens when you make...well ya'll know the saying.
 
I start to feed small amounts of Oto A when they are 4-5 days. Moving them completely over when they are all through meta I slowly wean them off the Rots. When they are big enough I move to B2 then when they are growout size I switch to C2.

I've had much better success with the Otohime than the BBS. It was too much of a pain. I think my clowns are healthier for it too. I feel its a much better 2nd food. I haven't hatched BBS in a very long time.
 
I'm in the process of building the more permanent grow out. Two 40G's and a 20G all centrally plumbed to a 45G sump with an Aqua-C 180 running ozone (145G total system). I'll still keep the 10G larvae tank and 29G QT. After the ammonia spike I had a couple weeks ago, I want something with a little less maintenance and more stability (painful lesson learned). I'm building it nice and high, so I can add another row of tanks below if needed/wanted.

I've sold off 12 of the first hatch - still have 4 (lost 19 of them at twenty days old to the ammonia spike - still very bitter about that), the second hatch is 6 days old in my 10G now and the 3rd batch of eggs in my display will hatch this Sat. I need to get it moving because the new fry have to go in the 10G.

It is taking a while since I can only work on it here and there, but here's a pic of where I am right now. The sump is running ... just need to plum the return, plumb the drains, drill the 20G, shift the light, mix a bunch of more water and I'm in business (and probably make 4 trips to Home Depot and 2 to the LFS for the $1.99 part I'm missing).

-John

Onyx%20Clowns%20Grow%20Out%20Build1.jpg
 
What is this otohime culture you all are discussing? where has it been ordered and is the required maintenance similar to that of rot.s and bbs?
thanks,
nate
 
Those otohime copepods are pretty rare to find. they come from an isolated island in the atlantic and only a few select breeders have ever been able to gather them. They make excelent clownfish food though. You can call reed mariculture (look up online) and ask them for their ultra rare "otohime copepod starter culture". :celeb3::hammer::wildone::crazy1:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

ravedood
T5 mounting clips
Replies
5
Views
901
mlivvy
mlivvy
N
Fluval Edge 12g 45L new to reefs
Replies
0
Views
2K
nd78
N
ravedood
Green Hair Algae Problem
Replies
1
Views
552
Pife
Pife
ravedood
FS: 3 DIY metal halid reflectors with moguls
Replies
2
Views
722
ravedood
ravedood
ravedood
FS: Baytech Aquarium Chiller 1/4 HP
Replies
2
Views
997
ravedood
ravedood
Back
Top