Brian's 270 Starphire

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15127412#post15127412 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Dejavu
Thanks Joe- My buddy that a plumber said the same. He coming in a month to solder in a tee along with a few other things. Kinda a quick fit for now.

good-good- yeah my psi is fluctuating because of my saddle tap Austin- we live and learn (hopefully =) I don't get to move so I will be fixing mine-lol
 
Brian, I'd suggest for you to fill the bottom of your stand a bit. Maybe even put the 2x4 sideways. It may not matter for you as I do not know your foundation, but since I have raised hardwood floors, I get an small scho from the vibration of the pumps.
 
Ive used saddle valves for years with no problem.

However, something that is VERY important, and will prevent most, if not all issues, its proper installation.

Never mount a saddle pointing down. This will allow any sediment in the bottom of the pipes (i.e. copper) to make their way into your filter, and even clog the valve.

Always mount parallel with the pipe. It should look like a "T" from below. This will prevent any contaminants from clogging your valve.

You will need to seal that one up and get a new one though, obviously.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15129778#post15129778 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Ed Reef
Looks like a solid frame Brian

Thanks Ed. I hope to have most of the frame done this weekend.... I hope. :)

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15132513#post15132513 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by mpoletti
Brian, I'd suggest for you to fill the bottom of your stand a bit. Maybe even put the 2x4 sideways. It may not matter for you as I do not know your foundation, but since I have raised hardwood floors, I get an small scho from the vibration of the pumps.

Mark, I do plan on adding half inch plywood to the bottom of the frame. The floor is tile on concrete. Not sure if its the wood that make the pump echo more or not.

I have thought of lineing the bottom of the stand with Styrofoam sheets. I have done this in the pass, any thoughts.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15132649#post15132649 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by juniormc8704
Ive used saddle valves for years with no problem.

However, something that is VERY important, and will prevent most, if not all issues, its proper installation.

Never mount a saddle pointing down. This will allow any sediment in the bottom of the pipes (i.e. copper) to make their way into your filter, and even clog the valve.

Always mount parallel with the pipe. It should look like a "T" from below. This will prevent any contaminants from clogging your valve.

You will need to seal that one up and get a new one though, obviously.

Thanks for the advice Jr. I have had my last RO/DI hooked up the same way at my old house for years with out a problem. For some reason I'm not getting the same pressure as I did be for.

I think I'll do what Joe suggested and Solder in a T fitting instead and reduce down to your 1/4"line. I have to add a wash sink in that room anyways and I planned on putting in the same area as the saddle is now.

I can just cut out where the hole is for the saddle and put my Tee in there for the wash sink. It a few weeks out until I can get my plumber friend out so I'll have to make do until then.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15132719#post15132719 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by PnoyReefeR
Nice Brian ... I can learn from this build thread .. your tank will be filled like everyone says quick :)

Thanks Steve, Let hope that doesn't happen. :)


Update for the day- Not much was done. I did finish setting up my 90 gal, so I hope to get my fish and corals back sometime next week.

I also had my buddy who's a electrician stop over. I plan to added one or two 20 amp beakers just for the tank. Since my basement is finished and my electrical box is on the other side to the basement I can not easily run the wire. He will be over next week to snake the wire though the ceiling. I need 130' of wire ran :eek1:.

I do have an outlet that is near the tank, but my living room can lights are on the same beaker. So, the question is

- do I add two 20 amp for the tank or
-one 20 amp and daisy chain a few outlet off the one thats there.
 
I use a seperate 20 amp for my lights, return and chiller. Everything else is ran off of a daisy chain outlet that was already in place.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15140316#post15140316 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by mpoletti
I use a seperate 20 amp for my lights, return and chiller. Everything else is ran off of a daisy chain outlet that was already in place.

Thanks Mark, It good to know I only need one. I might run two if the cost isn't that much more.
 
I got all the uprights in today and cut the top and bottom plywood for the stand. I left the top unmounted so I can get it back though my slider after I paint the inside and urethane the out side of the frame.

I plan on painting the inside white with oil-base paint and using SPAR urethane for the outside. There coats of each. Here the frame with the uprights.

IMG_1099.jpg


IMG_1100.jpg
 
Picked up 100lbs of Pohnpei Dry rock today. Two of the pieces are
25 lbs each :eek1: . Still need to pressure wash it before I can add it to the other 100 lbs of live rock I have. It should be cured by the time I need it.

IMG_1101.jpg


IMG_1103.jpg
.


Update on the electrical too. The cost to run the 20 AMP line from one end of the house to the other was $500. Too rich for my blood. That leaves me other two options.

-one: trench the wire outside. Which will not be easily done do to the massive patio in the way.

-two: daisy chain the two outlet near the tank. Both are on separate breakers.

Or i could away pay the $500 for hte new line. Any advice??
 
Very nice Brian. Is there an electrician in your local club? Frags/$$$ is always a better price :p
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15172079#post15172079 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Gondore
$500 seems a bit high. I had this done for around $250-$300.

The line is 130' that fished thought the ceiling in a finished basement. Might be high or not, but it doesn't look easy. It's just not the cost of the wire it's mostly labor, which I can see. The run is from one end of the ceiling to the other with a few turns it need to go thought 6 different rooms With this option I will only have two hole in the finished ceiling. I'll try to get a lay out of the basement, might be easier to see.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15172443#post15172443 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by mpoletti
Very nice Brian. Is there an electrician in your local club? Frags/$$$ is always a better price :p

His is from the club the labor if half rate. :( He also a LPS guy.
 
Here is the finished frame for the tank stand. The inside was painted white with oil-base (4 coats) paint and SPAR urethane for the outside (6-7 coats). Still need to make the face for the stand and canopy.

Skimmer and Ca reactor for size reference . :)

IMG_1113.jpg
 
I thought I would update this since its been a while. Not much has been done on the setup as I have been getting some of corals moved back into the old 90 gal. I do plan to start the canopy and skin for the stand this week.

On a side note our house had a huge power surge in a thunderstorm last week. My profilux was damage in the strom and need to be fixed or replaced. I was thing of getting a RKE… any thoughts.
 
Thanks Ed. While I like the profilux its just more controller than I need. I might keep it since i have alot ton of power bars along with other acc.

One thing I would like to have is web access. Which is a lot of $$$ with the profilux, along with most of there add-on's.
 
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