Bryopsis...Question/Concern??

Go.Fish

New member
Once every few days i find a random piece of Bryopsis Algae growing in my 10 gallon all-in-one. No big deal, its been going on for months and never really noticeable.
Until a few days ago.... i plugged in an Innovative Marine AUQA Gadget MagnaFuge and now run it at night when the display lights are off. Not sure what i was expecting it grow but HOLY Bryopsis party back there?! Was originally thinking of putting some Chaeto back there

Not sure if this is a good or bad thing? Did i open up a can or worms? There was ZERO algae back there before the MagnaFuge. Maybe it will outcompete the Algae in the display section? Or cause it to spread throughout the tank rapidly?

Not sure what to do. And dont say Kent Tech M! I've tried that crap 4 times, the recipe changed or something...

bkkdfLn.jpg

The top of the photo is where the light is coming in, the bottom is the wall between back chamber and disply. Its only growing so far where the light hits at night
 

BlackTip

New member
Don't waste your time. Nuke the tank and start over. 10g is very doable. I treated Bryopsis with Kent M 3 times already, and after 4 months of no sign, they show up last week. My tank is 325g, so I cannot start over. There is no known solution for it.
 

peiloy3196

New member
I agree. At 10G I would definitely start over based on the war that I have had with it on my 250. Kent worked the first time and didnt the second. Since then I have thrown everything at it. Low nutrients, Super high mag, high salinity, manual removal, Hydrogen Peroxide dosing, Hydrogen Peroxide Kalk Slurry. Nothing phased it and I now had a SW Planted Aquarium. As a last effort I pulled every rock and sprayed with straight 9% hydrogen peroxide. It all died off and I thought that I won the battle. Two weeks later it came back on all of the rock and sand. I was ready to break down and then read about Fluconazole on another website. I figure what do I have to lose at this point and followed the instructions. Well I am on the last day of the treatment and all Bryopsis has disappeared with no losses of fish or SPS. The true test is to see if it comes back. BTW I am not saying to try this method as I cant say if you will have the same results that I have had and I dont know if it will work long term, I am just giving you my history with Bryopsis.
 

BlackTip

New member
I agree. At 10G I would definitely start over based on the war that I have had with it on my 250. Kent worked the first time and didnt the second. Since then I have thrown everything at it. Low nutrients, Super high mag, high salinity, manual removal, Hydrogen Peroxide dosing, Hydrogen Peroxide Kalk Slurry. Nothing phased it and I now had a SW Planted Aquarium. As a last effort I pulled every rock and sprayed with straight 9% hydrogen peroxide. It all died off and I thought that I won the battle. Two weeks later it came back on all of the rock and sand. I was ready to break down and then read about Fluconazole on another website. I figure what do I have to lose at this point and followed the instructions. Well I am on the last day of the treatment and all Bryopsis has disappeared with no losses of fish or SPS. The true test is to see if it comes back. BTW I am not saying to try this method as I cant say if you will have the same results that I have had and I dont know if it will work long term, I am just giving you my history with Bryopsis.

What is Fluconazole? Can you provide a link to what you read?
 

Go.Fish

New member
Thanks for sharing your experience peiloy! I have found some success in the past spot treating with peroxide but never 9% and it always seems to somehow survive after a short period, I'll have a search and read up on that Fluconazole. Thanks

Honestly taking the tank apart isn't that big of a deal but as you can see from what the tank looks like, I'm definitely not throwing it all away and starting over...
qYNNtfb.jpg
 

peiloy3196

New member
What is Fluconazole? Can you provide a link to what you read?

I am not sure I can post links to other reefing sites but if you google Fluconazole and bryopsis you will find information on it. All the stites that talk about it are in another language though so you will have to use the translate option on your browser.

Fluconazole is a fungus medication.
 

peiloy3196

New member
Thanks for sharing your experience peiloy! I have found some success in the past spot treating with peroxide but never 9% and it always seems to somehow survive after a short period, I'll have a search and read up on that Fluconazole. Thanks

Honestly taking the tank apart isn't that big of a deal but as you can see from what the tank looks like, I'm definitely not throwing it all away and starting over...
qYNNtfb.jpg

Your tank looks great! I hope you are successful in getting rid of the bryopsis, its a tough one.
 

BlackTip

New member
I am not sure I can post links to other reefing sites but if you google Fluconazole and bryopsis you will find information on it. All the stites that talk about it are in another language though so you will have to use the translate option on your browser.

Fluconazole is a fungus medication.

I already searched, before I asked you. I couldn't find anything other than the medication information. Keep us posted of your progress. Good luck.
 

Go.Fish

New member
I am not sure I can post links to other reefing sites but if you google Fluconazole and bryopsis you will find information on it. All the stites that talk about it are in another language though so you will have to use the translate option on your browser.

Fluconazole is a fungus medication.

I found the post earlier and used google translator...

Here's a bunch of it, some posts were omitted because they turned out in gibberish or weren't important... not sure if based on this info alone I'd give it a shot but gonna give it some thought...

Everton,

To combat filamentous algae "difficult", both Bryopsis as Derbésia, I have used and recommended is the FLUCONAZOL at a dose of 9 mg / liter SINGLE DOSE and directly on the display. It is reef safe.

Fluconazole has the mechanism of action blocking the synthesis of ergosterol, a structural fat present in the cell membranes of some algae, among which the aforementioned, which gives them flexibility and endurance. When it blocks the synthesis of this fat also present in fungi, the cell wall and membranes algae weaken, and they are exposed to the aggression of the medium and even herbivorous; cleaning staff and duty algueiros start to eat them. This fat, ergosterol is not present in the cell membranes of animals and higher plants nor the zooxanthellae of corals, so it does not affect them.
The drug is purchased at any pharmacy, but excercises (click the link) usually has the best price. It is an antimycotic, not an antibiotic, so do not need prescription. Usually come into capsules of 150 mg, powder filled, which must be opened and the powder (only powder) dissolved in a little deionised water, then pouring the thus obtained solution in the tank of the display or in the sump, preferably at night .

During the treatment period of about 14 days, they should be removed from the skimmer cup and activated carbon, for not withdrawing the drug. The UV filter, if any, should also be turned off (UV degrades the drug). It should also remove the ATS during treatment because the filamentous algae that there are created will also be affected. At the end of treatment, simply return the skimmer cup, activated carbon and other equipment; no need to TPA.

Reply...
Hello Jose. Thanks for the feedback.
My reef has 400 liters. If I understand the game one whole tablet or have to weigh it. Following the proportion of 9mg / L?
And play all day night for 14 days?
And according to the pictures above mine are even derbesias.

Reply...
Everton, each capsule contains 150 mg and has to be considered the total aquarium (display + sump); the total liters of your aquarium water are 400, then the account is this:

400 x 9 mg = 3,600 mg that, divided by 150 (the capsule content) gives 24 capsules.

The application of the medication is done in a single dose (once), dissolving the powder contents of 24 capsules in 01 liters of water and dosing slowly, and once in an area of good movement on the display or in the sump, preferably night (off lamp).
The 14 days of treatment refers to the time that the aquarium should remain without activated carbon without the skimmer cup (do not forget to lower the internal skimmer water, opening all the water outlet, but will overflow) and the UV filter switched off. this care is necessary so that the product is not removed and have time to act.

The medication has no "immediate" effect; It weakens the algae, they stop growing, they begin to fade and then they faded.

Reply...
Thanks again Joseph.
I will now take a picture as is and then how it was.
Soon post the results.
Hugs
...
Joseph. I'll bother you again.
While the product is in the system should not turn on the lights for 14 days? Or only when I put on the first day to night.
Hugs

Reply...
Everton, the fixtures can be connected yes, but if you have actinic lamps in the luminaire (which emit UV radiation), it would be interesting disconnect these bulbs ... In LED lamps, which have UV channels, simply reduce the maximum issuance of these channels.

Reply...
Nice. I have 3 aquaillumination of LED rails hydra 52. I will reduce to zero the uvs led.
Thank you again...

Reply from another member
is boqa question, Everton worked with medicine? post against?

Reply...
I'm testing the Fluconazole in a quarantine tank made an application about 15 days and has not changed two days ago I applied again'm photographing when you will post results

Reply...
I've done this procedure and it worked. In addition to the drug I think good to have cleaning staff they eat algae

Reply...

Good morning guys!!!
I needed to take a doubt dilution of fluconazole. For the compounding pharmacy in my city said it needed to put an amount of 1 ml of alcohol to solubilize fluconazole in water. Someone disagrees with the procedure? Another detail, qndo puts fluconazole (powder that comes in capsule), it dissolves entirely or get medication acorns without dissolving?
Thank you in advance for your help.
 

peiloy3196

New member
I found the post earlier and used google translator...

Here's a bunch of it, some posts were omitted because they turned out in gibberish or weren't important... not sure if based on this info alone I'd give it a shot but gonna give it some thought...
Yes that's one of the sites that mention it. I used a dosage rate of 150 mg per 30 L and used a generic named Forcan. It was definitely a leap of faith for me because of the lack of documentation but it was either that or a complete tear down. Last night I did a 20% water change as I was at the end of the 15 Day treatment period and put back on my skimmer cup along with running carbon. Also for the treatment period I shut down all Actinic lighting (Led's and T5's) as I read that those wavelengths would interfere with the drug. So I only ran my Radium MH's for 6 Hours a day. We will see what happens now.
 

Gorgok

New member
Yes that's one of the sites that mention it. I used a dosage rate of 150 mg per 30 L and used a generic named Forcan.

Is that a one time dose, daily, or what? At $4 for 150mg thats 37.5mg/$. If i understood the dosage relates to tank volume not just a dissolving liquid then for say my ~90 gallon system i get ~340 liter, which means i need 1700mg for a dose at 5mg/l (150mg/30l). So $45 for a dose. Not bad if it worked and it was a one shot thing, but it sounds like you mean a daily thing for 15 days? So $2040... At that point it better have a guarantee, heh.

Someone needs to do a study on it.
 

peiloy3196

New member
Is that a one time dose, daily, or what? At $4 for 150mg thats 37.5mg/$. If i understood the dosage relates to tank volume not just a dissolving liquid then for say my ~90 gallon system i get ~340 liter, which means i need 1700mg for a dose at 5mg/l (150mg/30l). So $45 for a dose. Not bad if it worked and it was a one shot thing, but it sounds like you mean a daily thing for 15 days? So $2040... At that point it better have a guarantee, heh.



Someone needs to do a study on it.



It's a one shot thing. On my 250 it worked out to a little over 40 tablets. I opened each capsule and emptied the contents into a cup. Once I had the contents in the cup I mixed it with some RO water and emptied it in the tank. I kept my skimmer running through out, but with the skimmer cup removed as I didn't want to skim out the medication but wanted to be sure the tank had enough dissolved oxygen. After the 15 days I did a 20% water change, put my skimmer back to normal and put carbon in my reactor. I don't run UV but read if you do it must be turned off.
 

peiloy3196

New member
It's a one shot thing. On my 250 it worked out to a little over 40 tablets. I opened each capsule and emptied the contents into a cup. Once I had the contents in the cup I mixed it with some RO water and emptied it in the tank. I kept my skimmer running through out, but with the skimmer cup removed as I didn't want to skim out the medication but wanted to be sure the tank had enough dissolved oxygen. After the 15 days I did a 20% water change, put my skimmer back to normal and put carbon in my reactor. I don't run UV but read if you do it must be turned off.

Sorry I typed that last night when I was tired. My tank worked out to a little over 30 tablets not 40. It was 32 150mg tablets to be exact. I dont want to derail this thread so I will start a new thread about this.
 
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