BTA in 2 month old tank,(had no choice) need help!!!

Abynum1

Premium Member
My cousin had a 3 year old system that he had to tear down due to going out of the country for a few years to work.
It was a FOWLR with a BTA.
He gave his livestock to a friend except for the BTA.
The friend didn't want to take it because he has some very non-reef safe fish including triggers.
My cousin who was short on time and didn't want to drive over an hour one way to the nearest lfs, advised that either one of us would have to take it or it was going to be left in a 10 gallon tank on its own.
Well, I know my tank isn't old enough, but look at the other two options!
Needless to say I adopted it, and my maroon took to it immediately.
I just fed it a silverside which it readily took.
It has been in my tank for 4 days and appears to be healthy, has opened nicely and I am hoping for the best.
Its a brownish/reddish color and will sometimes have the bubbles and sometimes not.
My biggest concern it which parameters are the most important for the BTA?
I don't have the greatest test kit (Tetra) but it appears I have 0 (or very close to it,hard to tell with this kit) on nitrates,0 nitrites, 0 ammonia,and ph is around 8.0 but again,it is hard to tell with this kit.
These are the only tests I have.
I want to get the Salifert as everyone suggests,but they are so expensive,so I'll have to buy one at a time.
Which one should I get 1st?
Also my tank has a 1 degree flucuation between 79 and 80.
The controller I have keeps it very stable.
Salinity is 1.025
I have thought this tank out for months,taken it very slowly, and everything has went very well with no losses.
This has been the 1st rule I've broken so far but I think it was the only shot at the BTA's survival.
I was planning on getting a GBTA or a RBTA once my tank was at least 6 months old, but this one will be just fine.
I just want to make sure I keep it alive and happy!
Any advise is greatly appreciated.
By the way my equipment listed at the bottom is all up to date.
 
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Oh yea, future livestock will be:
1)another maroon to pair with the one I have
2)pistol shrimp,shrimp goby combo
3)skunk shrimp
4)fire shrimp
5) either a coral beauty or flame angel
6)mandarin when my tank is at least a year old.
A few more softies,and thats it.
Are there any problems with the above listed and a BTA?
 
is it in the 110 gallon tank? if so then you are going to need some more lighting than you have listed, probably at least another 200 watts of 10k will do the trick, or try to get the BTA as close to the surface as possible so he gets the most light

other than that, I bet you'll be ok...BTA's are pretty forgiving generally, the clown will feed it some too, and with that much water volume and so little livestock your nutrient level cannot be very high...I think if you get some more light you are going to be fine

and don't worry about any of the fish you listed messing with your BTA, although the flam angel might try to nip at the anemone, I guarantee that the clown will whip it's @#@%$ if it trys to mess with the anemone, they are highly territorial
 
Thanks bigdaddy. The tank is 6ft long so it's only 18" high.
The spot I placed him on is bout 10" from the surface,and it has actually moved down some. (It was in a tank with VHO.)
I'll keep an eye on the lighting,maybe switch the blues to 50/50?
 
i got to hand it to ya, you are covering your bases and you care about the well being of the animals in your tank. it's a very good thing that the bta is accepting food, you are probably borderline on lighting but feeding can make up the difference.
i don't know much about tuxedo urchins but if he comes across your bta he may start eating it, definitely worth researching.
And you've probably already done it but be sure to cover your intakes.
 
No problems with tuxedo urchins and BTAs... I have to tuxedo urchins and have had as many as 6 BTAs at a time (currently have 3, but one's roughly the size of a dinner plate, so...), all happy and healthy. It sounds like you're on the right path... keep us updated!
 
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