BTA loosing bubble tips..."tips"

wfuavenger

In Memoriam
I cannot count the number of times I see something like this:

"HELP, My BTA doesn't have bubbles anymore!"

I read on in their post and find that they do not have enough light or are feeding WAY too much. In reality, they only need to be fed a few times per month!!!!!!

So, let’s start from the beginning. I am a Biochemist who dabbles in marine biology. I have 4 BTA's in 2 reef tanks. I have had them for over 5 years.

We have taken anemones from the wild, put them in synthetic wild like habitats for our viewing pleasure. This is okay as long as we can supply them what they need (not going into the whole removing wild animals and wild populations thing).

Anemones in the wild wander to find the best energy spots for themselves. They also wander in our tanks. Food items are scarce in the wild. BTA in the wild have 2 sources of energy. Both are related to "bubbling" of the tips.

1) light- If it is getting enough energy from light it will be happy and bubble its tentacle tips. This produces more surface area for them to capture light. When it needs a little more energy they get stringy for prey capture.

2) Prey- They have nematocysts for a reason; for defense and to capture food. Organisms are a great source of energy and nutrition. It's tentacles will get stringy to assist in the likelihood of them coming in contact with a prey item in the water column.
To supply them with the light they need, they need to be metal halide (MH) or lots of PC. They also need to occasionally be fed (as there is no prey swimming around in our tanks).

Now, in some of the threads, people say they have good, strong and new lights. Feed their BTA's 3, 4, or 5 times per week. And its tentacles are still stringy. Why?

I have found that if they are OVER fed, they will loose their bubble tips because they are deriving most of their energy from the food we feed. They get lazy. They no longer need the bubble tips due to the fact that they stay in prey capture mode because they are getting fed all the time. It is more energy efficient to remain stringy and get food shoved in its face, than to inflate the bubbles to capture light.

Now don't just go cold turkey on them and stop feeding. This will kill them. Their metabolisms are higher now. Slowly cut back their food if you are going to try this. It should take 2X as long to reduce the food as the amount of time you have been overfeeding. For example: you have been overfeeding for 6 months= it will take about a year to cut them back. This process worked with my first 2.

There is no guarantee this will work either. Most organisms are like us… If you are not used to working for your food and you sit there and have it presented to you, you would get lazy and fat. It is the same with all animals.

They (anemones) could get unhappy during this process and wander around (why work for your food when you can sit there and get fed!). Make sure you don't force it to be where it doesn't want to be. Eventually, it should have the ability to inflate again.

I will add a warning:

Some anemones, just like people, cannot go back to the way they were. They have lost the ability to inflate due to various reasons. You will have to make sure you do not underfeed if this is the case.

As long as you meet their nutritional requirements and simulate their natural habitats, they will live and have happy bubble tips for a long time.
 
What I find interesting in all this is, the Japanese think that BTA's need very very little light to be happy and flourish, were we think they need to have strong lighting. They always have bubble tips in every stores that I frequent, and they are always under normal florescent tubes. I bought one recently and it has lost its bubble tips, I have it under 2 20watt florescent bulbs but NOW it has 2 tomato clowns that beat it up all the time, in comparison to the store where there is maybe 4 or 5 clowns and 40 BTA's. Which is the only difference between then and now. I never feed it directly, it just gets the food that drifts around the tank for the fish. The main reason I posted this is because the Japanese seem have some radical positions on some corals in comparison to US, but they still flourish also. I find it very interesting.
 
Yes I have tried this. I went out of the coutry for 6 months and gave my parents the whole tank. I left detailed instructions on how to care for everything. They decided to feed the anemones almost every other day.

When I got back, they were stringy and had lost their bubbles.

I put new MH lights over them and did this. they have bubbles again. One has fat tenticals not on the tips. But he had inflated them close to what it used to be.

I have all of them in a reef tanks with SPS and LPS. High flow will cause that because the tenticles slam into everything. They deflate for safety.



How long have you had yours under the flourescent lights? also, how far away are they?
 
I have only 1, which is my first. I have had it for about a month. It's about 10 inches from a dual light strip 40w total. But it's not just me, It's EVERYONE in japan. They all seem to think BTA need barely any light. I have seen them sit in stores for months the same nems, under florescent lights, and they are beautiful. I think MAINLY bashing around is what causes the tentacles to deflate, like you said for safety. Overfeeding, I could also see why that could also be a problem. But I think there is a HIGH possibility that the whole "powerful light for BTA's" maybe just bea myth, because everyone that has the powerful lights also has everything else that sustains good water quality.
 
I have been keeping saltwater tanks for over 30 years. I have to say that I never saw a BTA without bubble tips until people and stores started using lighting other than normal fluorescent bulbs.
My tanks always had at least 4watts per gallon of normal fluorescent bulbs and I never had a BTA lose its bubbles. When I went to CF bulbs I started to see more stringy tentacles.

Some data for you to consider:
Right now in one tank, I have 3 BTAs that get treated the same way. One always has bulbs, one never has bulbs, and one goes back and forth. My anemones catch small amounts of food everyday, but I don't feed directly more than about once a month, if that.

You should also realize that not all BTAs in the wild have bulbed tentacles.
 
sorry to hijack...
but i currently have a 29g biocube with a 150W metal halide over it. could i really put the stock hood (64w cf) back on it and still keep my bta? i'd do this to make it more aesthetic and i could sell my sunpod and get some extra cash to put into my developing 72g.
 
oh i forgot to mention (keeping theme with the thread)......my bta had bubble tips in the store (low light) and lost them with in a few weeks of having it under the metal halide...
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13418450#post13418450 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by kobesan
I've heard BTAs will lose their tips once they have a host.

The Fautin/Allen book says exactly the opposite. In practice, it doesn't seem to matter.
 
None of mine ever have bubble tips. I have probably 10 RBTA's, and they might have some bubbles when they first split, when the tentacles are only 3/4" long or so, and the mantle is only 1", but after that point, no bubbles, just an RBTA posing as a long-tentacle.

Moved them from VHO t-5 (256 w in a 40g-br) to HO t-5 (216 w in a 75g), each with four bulbs adding up to their corresponding wattages, so right now, I'm dealing with less intense light, but there's no change in the bubbles, and only two of my anemones are hosted, with my fourth, and fifth clownfish choosing some odd homes like condylactis or yumas, so I'm really not seeing any relation. I've got an 8-biocube w/ one in it and two perculas hosting it, and even with that low flow, low feeding, moderate-at-best lighting, the bubbles are more like long tentacles(Before I get reamed out for keeping that in an 8-gal w/ 2 perculas, my RBTA's never get large, as they always split at about the 4.5-6" mark, and I change about a gallon or two a week to compensate for the two perculas, even though the bigger of the two is barely an inch long). I really don't see any correlation at all.
 
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