Bubble Trap Box Idea (Questions)

trying to burst your bubble :)

did you look into the possibility of configuring the skimmer so that its output flows into ball/rubble zone? im assuming that the skimmer is causing the microbubbles.
 
Ya,, I was going to use some two part epoxy I had around. But figured I’d use a product made for plexi. So far it acts and looks like regular old GE silicon I…
 
The skimmer is returning back to the main area of the sump (you can see the white PVC coming off the skimmer in the 1st pic). Returning it to the rubble tower would be a pain since the skimmer is lower then the top of the tower. The return from the fuge overflow is also going into the main part of the sump. These 2 things are causing the micro bubbles in the display (as far as I can tell). I hope this box works, or at least helps...
 
Cool idea NickBee. I guess the overflow box will also allow for the water level in your skimmer section to remain stable, which is good. And yes you can remove the filter sponge on the pump.
 
Here are some more pics of the bubble trap getting glued up.


bubble6.jpg


bubble7.jpg


bubble8.jpg


I’m going to go with Bean’s suggestion and use under â€"œ over â€"œ under baffles it seems like it will work better. I’m going to space the baffles 3” apart since I have the room to. The under baffles will be 1.5” from the box bottom. I hope this slows the flow though the box enough for it to be effective. We’ll see!
 
Some of my thoughts. I endorse Bean's suggestions. (It's nice to get consensus in threads. It makes people more confident that a given suggestion is well founded instead on just one guy's opinion)

1) For the question about o-u-o or u-o-u it depends on the source of the water that contain micro bubbles. I once had a baffle arranged in u-o-u fashion which didn't work well since my drain line was aimed right at it. The directed flow pushed a significant amount of bubble filled water right under my first baffle. On the other hand if you don't have a lot of directed water flow where intake on the box you're making is going reside, then u-o-u may work better. Look at your existing sump. If there are a lot of micro bubbles making it down to the lowest levels, go o-u-o otherwise u-o-u. That's my suggestion on that issue.

2) When you do decide which way to make your baffles, think about baffle spacing. Bubble filtering takes place when the rate that bubbles rise is faster then the downward flow rate of the water surrounding them. In other words you've got to make the downward flow compartments as large a possible to slow down the water to get better bubble filtering. Smaller bubbles rise slower.

That being said, you don't get any bubble filtering from the compartments between baffles that create upward flows. Make these as small as possible, but still large enough to easily allow your maximum flow rate.

The mistake most people make is to evenly space the u-o-u or o-u-o compartments. What I'm suggesting is don't center that middle baffle in the bubble trap. Move it over as far as you can to make the down flow slower and the up flow faster. That way for the same given space, you will maximize your bubble trapping capability.

3) Consider the evaporation of the water in the return section. If you don't have an ATO (auto top off) you are going to get a water fall in one part of the bubble trap when your water evaps. This will create microbubble at the worst possible place, right next to your return pump. Also consider making it large enough to handle a full days worth of evap so you don't go crazy all day keeping that compartment full. Definitely implement some ATO system if you haven't yet. It's very worth it.

Hope this helps.

Kyle
 
Great tips guys! With where the bubbles are being generated they shold be closer to the surface as they approach the box opening. This is why I’m going to try a U-O-U configuration. Good tip on NOT evenly spacing the baffles Kyle. The bad news is it’s too late since mine are glued up already. The good news is plexi is relatively cheap if I want / need to attempt making another box.

More pics to follow soon. Thanks Again!
 
Also has anyone made baffles that consited of more than three.
ex. U-O--U-O--U-O---U. I believe the repition would reamove all of the bubbles. :smokin:

Jm.02
 
Fishboy given the same space, less baffles work better than more. As you move the baffles closer together, the downward velocity of the water increases and is more apt to carry bubbles down and under the baffle.
 
Here’s another stupid question. Should the height of the O baffle (in an U-O-U configuration) be as high as the lowest water level in the sump (or as low as I allow it go because of evaporation)…

Thanks!
 
Nick, the height of the O baffle will determine the level in your intake compartment. Make it really high and depending on what level you need to run your return at, it'll have a big waterfall. Make it too short and your limiting the amount of travel of the water for bubble removal.


If I may hijack for a moment.... I've often wondered, Bean and Keelay, what would happen if one had left right left (or right left right) baffles? The water would move from side to side at a constant speed (if you had constant spacing). If you can not get easy bubble removal on both the up and down, this would eliminate the up down business all together. :)
 
okay!!!

I can tell this might be a trial and error process. The cool thing is it's a stand alone box and I'll be able to remove it without stopping the operation of my sump. But let's see what happens when I toss in my original design in a few days (fingers crossed).
 
I noticed in your picture that your LR you are replacing your BIOBALLS with is out of the water. IT will not work that way. Your LR will not function unless it is submerged. ..
 
one thing that should be mentioned is if the baffles are involved with a dsb or mud fuge. it needs to be thought out if finishing or starting with an under.
 
Reef Bones,
The rock rubble is base rock. There for gas exchange and something to use instead of bio balls.

Douggie,
Good point with a fuge built into the sump. My fuge is separate from the sump.

Thanks Guys!
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9281948#post9281948 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by NickBee
Reef Bones,
The rock rubble is base rock. There for gas exchange and something to use instead of bio balls.


Doesn't matter what kind of rock it is. It has to be submerged fully to do its job. It will just be a stinky mess use like a trickle filter.
 
Ok, I was told by many people (and people on here) to replace the bio balls with rock rubble since the balls can be nitrate traps. It would not be possible to have the rocks submerged in the tower. They would either have to come out, or raising the water level would put more of them under water.
 
I would take them out. If they're not submerged, then they too will probably become a nitrate source as well as a stinky mess as stated above.
 
Back
Top