bubble trap question

[mikeandjenn99]

Ok, maybe a stupid question, but I bet more newbies will have it too when they move into a sump.
How the heck do you get silicone on both sides of the panels for a bubble trap? The first one was no problem. The second one was where I started scratching my head and muttering incoherently . With only an inch between the first panel and the second panel, how was I going to get the silicone on the side between the two panels? I just figured out where it was going to be and put a bead on the glass and then slid the panel into place. I then put my other bead on the side I could get to. Repeat for the last panel. Is there a better way to do this or is what I did pretty much the only way to do it?

 

[ordy1]

Newbie here.

Are you using acrylic panels or glass panels?

If acrylic you are not bonding it to the glass only wedging it with the silicone. I smeared the silicone on the edge of the acrylic panel and then wedged it into place. Let it dry a little and then scraped off as much excess as I could get to off the glass. Acrylic will not bond to glass with silicone. Glass will bond to glass with silicone. If you want a strong bond use glass. If you can get away with having a nice wedge use acrylic. Like this:

 

[Avi]

I have the same question...what about the neatness if there's only one inch between the baffles?

 

[JerseyWendy]

I am definitely going to tag along here, especially since installing baffles will be my very next step.

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Wendy
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[rustybucket145]

you silicone one side, then rub it in with your finger, this will actually squish the silicone all the way through the crack and out the other side. If that doesn't do it move the entire baffle forward the thickness of the glass and that should do it.

Remember, it doesn't have to be pretty, just funcitonal.

Oh, some people also use paint sticks to smooth out the silicone between the baffles but I really don't see a need for it.

 

[Randall_James]

The last baffle before the return pump needs to be lower IME. I try to keep at least 4" of room ABOVE the baffles.

Otherwise it will take very little evaporation to starve the return pump.

Also, if you have enough water to make it work, it may even overflow the sump with the pumps off.

Keep in mind the height of these baffles determines the operating level of the water in the sump, with only an inch or two of space above the baffle, you do not have much room for back drain...

I also keep around 3" of space between the #1 and #3 baffle to fill full of reef rubble.

you can smooth the silicone with your finger (dip it in rubbing alcohol first)

 

[sage_commander]

I took AZDesertrat's advice from a few months ago. I used a sharpie and drew a line on the outside of the tank where I wanted the baffles to go. I ran a bead of silicone along the line and wedged the panel into place. Once cured I ran a bead along the outside.

Acrylic will bond to glass. My whole setup has been in "burn-in" for the last two weeks. The structural integrity of the bubble traps is still just fine.

 

[ordy1]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9315176#post9315176 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Randall_James
The last baffle before the return pump needs to be lower IME. I try to keep at least 4" of room ABOVE the baffles.

Cheers: The last baffle before the pump is the 4" high one that seperates the fuge from the return. I just glued eggcrate to it to keep the critters out of the return pump. The return and the fuge are combined. Heres a better pic:

Otherwise it will take very little evaporation to starve the return pump.

Also, if you have enough water to make it work, it may even overflow the sump with the pumps off.

Keep in mind the height of these baffles determines the operating level of the water in the sump, with only an inch or two of space above the baffle, you do not have much room for back drain...

I have three baffles that make up the bubble trap. The last baffle has teeth (for critters) and is a little lower than the first baffel; when you consider the teeth. The middle baffle is 1" off the bottom. All three baffles are 1" apart. Should I bring the baffle with teeth down to the midway point? What will that do to my fuge? The way it's setup now I have about 3" from the top, where the baffles are located and was hoping to control the level at the return/fuge with a ball valve on the discharge side of my return pump. Do you think this would work? This is what I have in mind

I also keep around 3" of space between the #1 and #3 baffle to fill full of reef rubble.

you can smooth the silicone with your finger (dip it in rubbing alcohol first) [/B]

 

[ordy1]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9315482#post9315482 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by sage_commander

Acrylic will bond to glass. My whole setup has been in "burn-in" for the last two weeks. The structural integrity of the bubble traps is still just fine.

I actually didn't know diddly about working with acrylic or glass. That is until I perused Melevsreef.com in it's entirety. Melev makes acrylic sumps; some badass ones too, and I'm taking what he said about acrylic bonding to glass as gospel.

Can you please explain how you got your acrylic to bond to glass. It would save me a few dollars seeing as how I am considering ripping out the acrylic and replacing it with glass in order to have a stronger bond on all the dividers.

Thanks.

Ordy

 

[sage_commander]

For one thing, I made sure that the baffles were sized such that they had to be "wedged" into the sump. Then, as explained above, I let the heavy beads of silicone do the work. I should also point out that I bought some thick acrylic for the baffles (I think 3/16").

I figured that in the case of the sump that form follows function. If I was concerned about it looking all snazzy I would have one buit locally. As it turns out mine cost $15 plus my time.

 

[ordy1]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9317977#post9317977 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by sage_commander
For one thing, I made sure that the baffles were sized such that they had to be "wedged" into the sump. Then, as explained above, I let the heavy beads of silicone do the work. I should also point out that I bought some thick acrylic for the baffles (I think 3/16").

I figured that in the case of the sump that form follows function. If I was concerned about it looking all snazzy I would have one buit locally. As it turns out mine cost $15 plus my time.

Sage: I used 1/4" acrylic. I did the same thing and wedged it with the silicone pouring over the edges. I agree, asthetics be damned it doesn't have to look good just be functional.

I must have misunderstood you when you said that the acrylic bonded to the glass.

Ordy

 

[Randall_James]

I had the flow going the other way...

I put the return pump where the skimmer is located to give the water as much time as possible before going through the bubble trap

 

[sage_commander]

Ordy,

I should have said "adhere." Which it does just fine. And as far as I can tell, it holds a seal well. Since there's no positive pressure and very low flow in the sump, it should last a long time with a good bead.

 

[RocketEngineer]

In the DIY forum, there was an individual that ran a bead of silicone down the corner of a piece of aluminum angle and the sqished it into the corner between the baffle and sump wall. Just another method to consider.