Build Thread - Elos 160

I tried the wide and actually went back to the standard TIR. I did reorient the position of the lights to be parallel with the tank and that gave me more even spread.
 
I wanted to build a better qt tank so after some forum scouring i decided to take a 40breeder and turn it into an AIO (All in one)

Found a shop in hialeah that cuts acrylic to size and put together this


1B3BCF2E-5155-4197-AD4D-98107174B55B.jpg


Had to cut the teeth by hand with a die grinder but everything else was fairly easy.

FA314137-0732-4F94-BF5D-EBED8B8112AD.jpg


I wanted a filter sock - chamber for some marinepure media - and a place to run carbon.

478269A3-D194-4126-BC20-7E0A9FB9909C.jpg


DE3A816D-7634-411E-8965-72D64A24592E.jpg
 
Wow totally anal in the best way possible. I love it:eek:

FWIW I run Siporax in my QT. Just to make sure I can support the bioload!
 
Gio!! Whats up brotha
Its called Faulkner off the 826 on the opposite side of palmetto hospital.

Danny I have been using those marinepure ceramic media for a while in the other qt tank and it has worked well
Maybe i will add some more
 
Any updates?

Wanted to ask what is the dimension of your sump? Will a 30" long sump will fit in place?


Hi Jdantunes
It is EXACTLY 30" wide, you may have some trouble cramming it in there depending on the exact width. Maybe with the tank empty that center brace will flex a little and allow it to fit. You will have to remove the door and the hinges (i had to remove bottom hinge to install my sump). My sump is a tad shorter than 30" (29.5")

Running tank fallow for a few months but getting ready to add fish again!
 
Ok lets get some updates posted...

As mentioned before I recently switched my lights to the G4 Pros. I purchased the new rail system they offer with the adjustable arms and I really like this system a lot. The sliding rails allows easy adjustments of spacing and they rotate allowing changes in orientation.

C6121203-223E-42AC-8F7B-879E7E07C0A0.jpg


64DE28AE-78D8-421C-A724-2525FFAF9167.jpg


The new lights ship with a completely different power supplies so I had to pull out the old ones I had mounted upside-down in the stand and try something different to tidy up the cables and feed the OCD monster.

39EAA9FA-988D-47CF-BCBA-A46111C92558.jpg


Im not much of a woodworker but with a trip to home depot I came up with the above contraption which I could slide behind the tank and keep everything organized and accessible.

I had not really anticipated buying a new model Apex and in hindsight I probably should have waited and done everything all at once (but who will tell a kid with a new toy not to play with it)

The new lights definitely provide more output vs my older ones but the spread seems to be more even. I raised them up a tad and had to lower intensity to 60% because I started to see some sps getting pale (my low nutrients doesn't help). Perhaps when I add more fish and nutrients rise I can increase intensity. The warm white channel gives it a different look even though that channel is not very intense. I have been using the default AB+ setting from the coralab write up.

Things seem to be heading in the right direction and I am happy with the results so far.

A few months after the lights was the APEX....
 
A few nights ago I decided to stop procrastinating and install the new model Apex.

I powered the new brain using one of the new eb8s and wired it into my network to check operation and update it before committing. After updates I printed a summary of my current apex with the summary icon included in fusion which shows the programming on all your outlets. Neptune includes a great guide online for setting up your new apex here:
https://www.neptunesystems.com/getstarted/apexng/apex-control-freak-training/

I gathered up my supplies to start the installation
0D25ADED-27C5-4BBE-9957-BCBE43E4A412_1.jpg


Okay maybe I didnt use bread ties....

After all that was complete I ran an extension to my stand from from an outlet on another circuit to power my return pump, cabinet light, and one Radion and proceeded to remove the old controller with its modules.

D065424C-55E5-40FC-8D59-5F2D213530CE.jpg


Blank Slate - My OCD is going nuts right about now.

After some fiddling around with the layout I had an idea in my head and started mounting the power modules and started to organize the cords. (I love zip ties)

E4839350-E239-4A30-A203-CB2A060322D3.jpg


EED1B554-6561-463F-A035-FAA8EAA4C6B2.jpg


And then relocating my Vortech drivers

EA72413F-E163-44FC-9125-EBBE7BD601FD.jpg


083A6AE7-D58C-4423-A65C-99B8DBD126CB.jpg


I installed a one link cable on my DOS which eliminated a power brick with its wiring and a usb cable (much cleaner). I cleaned up all the power cords and installed the probes last which would allow them to be removed easier (mistake I made on my last install). After calibrating all the probes I tied up all the excess cables and bundled them together to keep things tidy but still allow me to separate them when it comes time to replace one.

F1302FB7-4D9F-4C68-82AF-B309911C90B9.jpg


I ordered two 1FT power cords to use on my Vortech power supplies to help keep the wire clutter to a minimum so until they arrive I am at a standstill but this is the final product for now.

5006BB9C-87BA-444D-BEB2-E8954BA3AF11.jpg


I ran two extra wires from the breakout box to my water change closet in case I wanted to add a float switch or some other contraption in the future.

One final thing I think is worth mentioning is that unlike the old EB8s, the new 832s have a small active fan for what I assume is cooling the internal power supply. Be very mindful of your wiring so as not to cover this small vent opening.

DD5E7752-A20E-49F9-9E8F-1C4BC1D11935.jpg


After a few days of making sure all is working fine perhaps I will mess around with some of the new features that monitor power consumption. The web interface is cleaner and more "Fusion" like compared to the old Apex which is nice.
 
Back
Top