Building a wood stand for a 500g tank

WaterSkiier

New member
So I have a google sketch model of how I want to build the stand for my new tank, it is based off a stand that I saw someone had a 400g tank on and it wasn't falling down, so I assume that it is pretty good fundamentally.

cXnNC.png


Those are all 2x6 boards, there will also be a sheet of 3/4" top and bottom.

Do you think that I could get away with only 2x 2x6" on the legs or does it need to be three? It would be nice if the sump could be a little bigger.

Any other thoughts?

Thanks
 
The only problem I see with your design is with the "removable braces". If you take these out when the tank is loaded, it will fail. I like the looks of it otherwise, now lets see a build thread.
 
So 500g = 120" X 30" X 32" Tall

First, the legs don't need to be 2X6. Instead they can be 2X4. Also you only need one board behind each leg. The screw strips should not be structural as the loads are not transferred directly to them.

If you go with 3 legs along each long side instead of the 5 shown, the top frame needs to be increased to a 2X8 to keep deflection under 1/8" when loaded. Personally, I would have three openings with four legs. The openings on each end would be 36" while the center opening would be 34". Given this case you can get away with a 2X6 upper frame.

HTH,
RocketEngineer
 
So 500g = 120" X 30" X 32" Tall

First, the legs don't need to be 2X6. Instead they can be 2X4. Also you only need one board behind each leg. The screw strips should not be structural as the loads are not transferred directly to them.

If you go with 3 legs along each long side instead of the 5 shown, the top frame needs to be increased to a 2X8 to keep deflection under 1/8" when loaded. Personally, I would have three openings with four legs. The openings on each end would be 36" while the center opening would be 34". Given this case you can get away with a 2X6 upper frame.

HTH,
RocketEngineer

The reason for the boards all being 2x6 is that is what is leftover from building the house, the wood will all be free.

So even thought they are butting up against the top plywood they won't be carrying much load? (the rear boards in the legs?).

I wish I was still in school so I would have the ability to math this out in Pro-E or something.
 
ALL the weight of the tank should be transferred by the only those legs directly under the the upper frame...the rest of the legs are a simple way to attach the top and bottom frames to the legs....personally i would be sure not to have the nailing strips (backing legs) what ever you want to call them, go all the way up to the plywood...you may inadvertently create a high spot in the top of the stand when loaded, rather i would leave them about 1/4" to 1/2" below the plywood. the only reason you would need three 2x's per leg is if you are doubling up the the front top frame. however a single 2x6 over a 3' opening should be more then sufficient.

2x6 is fine but drastic overkill, if that is what you have use it, if you want you can rip it down to 2x4's on a table saw, this would give you little 1.5x1.5" spare nailing strips to use for what ever you want too...

only thing i see is your stand design make no provisions for raking, are you going to be skinning the stand? i assume this is an in wall build? i would still skin the back and sides if that is the case....if you plan on finishing the entire exterior of the stand, dont worry about this last little ramble..

as for removable braces, i see no reason you couldnt pull one out while tank is operating, if it removable simply for plumbing and sump setup reasons, and not to be removed again until it is dismantled, then i wouldnt worry about it at all...screw them in once the sump is plumbed and installed, then you can add water tot eh display...
 
Agree with above. If your not going to clad with plywood you could remove half of the top braces under the top plywood sheet, every 2 feet is fine with the 3/4 inch ply top.
Then you could brace the back struts with diagonals to prevent raking.
 
You're right I should do something to prevent raking, I think I will put diagonals on the front so that they are covered by the drywall and they aren't in the way at all.
 
Back
Top