This thread was automatically split due to performance issues. You can find the rest of the thread here: http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=14641558#post14641558
Building My 375gal Glass Reef
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
In honor of my split thread, 
I thought I'd post a little index so that you can quickly find particular topics, that might interest you, in the first 40 pages:
Page 1 - System Specs
Page 1 - RO/DI Setup
Page 1 - Tank Stand
Page 2 - RO/DI ATO
Page 3 - Light Rack
Page 5 - Changing a Dart NeedleWheel
Page 6 - First Tank Pics
Page 7 - More Tank Pics
Page 8 - Cooling Fans and Fan Boxes
Page 9 - Sump Water Test
Page 10 - Sump Details
Page 10 - Tank Arrival
Page 12 - Overflow Plumbing
Page 13 - Skimmer Placement
Page 14 - Sump Area Electrical
Page 14 - Controller Electrical
Page 16 - Skimmer Installation
Page 17 - AquaControler Utility
Page 23 - New Model 6205 Tunze Streams
Page 24 - Frag and Fuge Tank Stand
Page 24 - Marco Rocks Arrive
Page 24 - Acrylic Rock Platforms
Page 25 - Beginning of the Aquascape
Page 27 - Rock Blower
Page 28 - Fish Room Plumbing and Setup
Page 28 - Water Change Equipment
Page 30 - Tunze 7095 Controller Hook Up
Page 32 - Dual Skimmers Running
Page 33 - Supplement Dosing Setup
Page 36 - Supplement Installation
Page 39 - Probe Holder and Controller Installation
Page 40 - First Fish Pics
I thought I'd post a little index so that you can quickly find particular topics, that might interest you, in the first 40 pages:Page 1 - System Specs
Page 1 - RO/DI Setup
Page 1 - Tank Stand
Page 2 - RO/DI ATO
Page 3 - Light Rack
Page 5 - Changing a Dart NeedleWheel
Page 6 - First Tank Pics
Page 7 - More Tank Pics
Page 8 - Cooling Fans and Fan Boxes
Page 9 - Sump Water Test
Page 10 - Sump Details
Page 10 - Tank Arrival
Page 12 - Overflow Plumbing
Page 13 - Skimmer Placement
Page 14 - Sump Area Electrical
Page 14 - Controller Electrical
Page 16 - Skimmer Installation
Page 17 - AquaControler Utility
Page 23 - New Model 6205 Tunze Streams
Page 24 - Frag and Fuge Tank Stand
Page 24 - Marco Rocks Arrive
Page 24 - Acrylic Rock Platforms
Page 25 - Beginning of the Aquascape
Page 27 - Rock Blower
Page 28 - Fish Room Plumbing and Setup
Page 28 - Water Change Equipment
Page 30 - Tunze 7095 Controller Hook Up
Page 32 - Dual Skimmers Running
Page 33 - Supplement Dosing Setup
Page 36 - Supplement Installation
Page 39 - Probe Holder and Controller Installation
Page 40 - First Fish Pics
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Why ... thank you, Ed. The way your new thread is going, it won't be long before it splits, also.
Gonna be one sweet setup!For anyone who hasn't visited Ed's latest: Ed Reef's Shallow Crest Inspired ART It's a great thread!
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Well, the only main thing left to do in the fish room is build, plumb, and set up the refugium and frag tanks. I'll be using 3/8" cast acrylic sheet to build the tanks. The max height of the tanks will be 16" so 3/8" thick material will be fine - I'll be including a 3" wide Euro-brace on both tanks.
Dimensions:
Frag Tank will be 48" X 24" X 12" or approx. 60 gallons.
Refugium will be 48" X 24" X 16" or approx. 80 gallons.
Both tanks will have an internal overflow box on one end. The tanks will be plumbed to the sump with 2" PVC for the overflow and 1-1/2" PVC for the supply water. I had to install the pipes along three of the fish room walls to get from the frag/fuge location to the sump.
This is how the pipe was installed:
I used these clips from Savko.com:
If you ever need to attach PVC pipe to a wall, get 'em - they're great!
The frag and fuge tanks will be placed on this stand:
It was built using 2"X4"s, 2"X6"s, 3/4" ply, 5/8" stainless steel lag bolts, and Formica. The legs are tripled up 2"X4"s, milled to size. Holes have been drilled to handle the overflow and return pipes (although I'm thinking about foregoing the through the bottom return).
Dimensions:
Frag Tank will be 48" X 24" X 12" or approx. 60 gallons.
Refugium will be 48" X 24" X 16" or approx. 80 gallons.
Both tanks will have an internal overflow box on one end. The tanks will be plumbed to the sump with 2" PVC for the overflow and 1-1/2" PVC for the supply water. I had to install the pipes along three of the fish room walls to get from the frag/fuge location to the sump.
This is how the pipe was installed:
I used these clips from Savko.com:
If you ever need to attach PVC pipe to a wall, get 'em - they're great!
The frag and fuge tanks will be placed on this stand:
It was built using 2"X4"s, 2"X6"s, 3/4" ply, 5/8" stainless steel lag bolts, and Formica. The legs are tripled up 2"X4"s, milled to size. Holes have been drilled to handle the overflow and return pipes (although I'm thinking about foregoing the through the bottom return).
EnglishRebel
Retired Rebel Reefer
I knew this great thread would split eventually. Congrats.
:thumbsup: :celeb3: :celeb2: :celeb1:
:thumbsup: :celeb3: :celeb2: :celeb1:
Frag and Fuge cont.:
As in the past, I'd like to say that just about everything I'll be showing here is taken from ideas I got from reading the great threads here on Reef Central.
As material for building the tanks, I purchased two sheets of 3/8" cast acrylic. I could have done with less but I want to use one solid piece to create the tops/euro-bracing. I've learned not to try to "cheap out" and use extruded acrylic for tanks. It's very difficult to cut, rout, and form without melting and it just doesn't have the strength of cast material. The material for the overflow boxes will be 3/8" cast black acrylic. Didn't have to buy any - I've got lots of scrape from a project a couple of years ago.
In case it may be of use to someone, I'll go through the process I use to build acrylic tanks. My tanks are all built in the following order:
1. weld the two ends to one side - ends are on top of side piece
2. turn over and place on top of other side piece - weld in place
3. place side and end construction on top of the top piece - weld in place
4. turn over and place on the bottom piece - weld in place
I will be using the pins method for welding. I use Weld-On 4 solvent. It has the consistency of water and I find it pretty easy to use. You just have to be careful not to splash it around - it leaves nasty marks.
To deliver the solvent I use a squeeze bottle with #25 gauge needle:
For pins, I've started using #18 acupuncture needles, but I think they are a little too thin for my liking, so I'll probably go back to baggy ties with the paper stripped off:
So, as far as the materials needed to do the actual welding - it's very little. I use a small plastic syringe to get the solvent from the can into the squeeze bottle. That makes the following everything I need:
To be continued ....
As in the past, I'd like to say that just about everything I'll be showing here is taken from ideas I got from reading the great threads here on Reef Central.
As material for building the tanks, I purchased two sheets of 3/8" cast acrylic. I could have done with less but I want to use one solid piece to create the tops/euro-bracing. I've learned not to try to "cheap out" and use extruded acrylic for tanks. It's very difficult to cut, rout, and form without melting and it just doesn't have the strength of cast material. The material for the overflow boxes will be 3/8" cast black acrylic. Didn't have to buy any - I've got lots of scrape from a project a couple of years ago.
In case it may be of use to someone, I'll go through the process I use to build acrylic tanks. My tanks are all built in the following order:
1. weld the two ends to one side - ends are on top of side piece
2. turn over and place on top of other side piece - weld in place
3. place side and end construction on top of the top piece - weld in place
4. turn over and place on the bottom piece - weld in place
I will be using the pins method for welding. I use Weld-On 4 solvent. It has the consistency of water and I find it pretty easy to use. You just have to be careful not to splash it around - it leaves nasty marks.
To deliver the solvent I use a squeeze bottle with #25 gauge needle:
For pins, I've started using #18 acupuncture needles, but I think they are a little too thin for my liking, so I'll probably go back to baggy ties with the paper stripped off:
So, as far as the materials needed to do the actual welding - it's very little. I use a small plastic syringe to get the solvent from the can into the squeeze bottle. That makes the following everything I need:
To be continued ....
Frag and Fuge cont.:
Some of the tools I use when building an acrylic tank:
Spring clamps. These are great for holding pieces of acrylic together while they are being welded.
Whenever acrylic parts are being welded, pressure is necessary to ensure a perfect joint. Weight can be used to apply that pressure. I've just taken normal building bricks and covered them with duct tape to make portable weights. Works great!
Other than a table saw, a router is the most important tool when working with flat acrylic. This is a 2-1/4HP model. It has plenty of power but is light enough to be handled easily:
Whenever two pieces of acrylic need to be welded at a 90 degree angle, this homemade jig works great. The spring clamps hold the acrylic part tightly to the jig:
I often have to include overflow weirs in a project:
Both of these tanks will need one. There are a number of ways to make them. Most ways have to do with a makeshift jig of some type. This can be difficult, and at times, dangerous.
I own a woodworking tool from Leigh called a dovetail jig. The Leigh model is very convenient because you can add accessories to accomplish different jobs. One of the accessories I have is for creating finger joints. Finger joints are often used to hold the sides together when making boxes and drawers. The thing about 1/2 of a box joint is - it is exactly like the fingers we need to make a weir comb.
This is the Leigh jig with the finger joint accessory installed:
Here's a close up of the finger joint jig. You can see the piece of black acrylic stock with a number of fingers already cut. The protective paper is frayed where the cut was made, but the acrylic is cut very cleanly:
Together with a router, the jig makes perfect weir combs, every time. A two edge straight bit is inserted in the router:
Notice that the bit is in a small collar. A piece of acrylic is placed in the jig, under finger joint accessory. The extension on that collar follows the finger extensions on the jig. What comes out is a perfect weir comb:
To be continued ....
Some of the tools I use when building an acrylic tank:
Spring clamps. These are great for holding pieces of acrylic together while they are being welded.
Whenever acrylic parts are being welded, pressure is necessary to ensure a perfect joint. Weight can be used to apply that pressure. I've just taken normal building bricks and covered them with duct tape to make portable weights. Works great!
Other than a table saw, a router is the most important tool when working with flat acrylic. This is a 2-1/4HP model. It has plenty of power but is light enough to be handled easily:
Whenever two pieces of acrylic need to be welded at a 90 degree angle, this homemade jig works great. The spring clamps hold the acrylic part tightly to the jig:
I often have to include overflow weirs in a project:
Both of these tanks will need one. There are a number of ways to make them. Most ways have to do with a makeshift jig of some type. This can be difficult, and at times, dangerous.
I own a woodworking tool from Leigh called a dovetail jig. The Leigh model is very convenient because you can add accessories to accomplish different jobs. One of the accessories I have is for creating finger joints. Finger joints are often used to hold the sides together when making boxes and drawers. The thing about 1/2 of a box joint is - it is exactly like the fingers we need to make a weir comb.This is the Leigh jig with the finger joint accessory installed:
Here's a close up of the finger joint jig. You can see the piece of black acrylic stock with a number of fingers already cut. The protective paper is frayed where the cut was made, but the acrylic is cut very cleanly:
Together with a router, the jig makes perfect weir combs, every time. A two edge straight bit is inserted in the router:
Notice that the bit is in a small collar. A piece of acrylic is placed in the jig, under finger joint accessory. The extension on that collar follows the finger extensions on the jig. What comes out is a perfect weir comb:
To be continued ....
EnglishRebel
Retired Rebel Reefer
Tom
I think that's the first shot of your workshop that I've seen and I'm impressed. You seem to have more room than I do. I too have the Leigh jig that I've used many time to make dovetailed drawers (both through and blind). I didn't think of using it to make toothed overflows. I just ordered a couple from Aquacave but need to attach them to glass. Do you know if silicone works to attach plastic to glass? I see that you have the Performax 16 sander too. I really like mine but I think the belt that moves the stock through has lost its "tooth" as it sometimes slips and then the stock stops moving and you end up with a snipe.
I need to replace it.
I tried my first attempt at acrylic when I welded 1/2" dowels to a 1/4" sheet to support my rock above the sand bed. I used the thick cement and really like it. I didn't realize that you need pressure for a good joint. If you do that doesn't it squeeze out the cement from the joint that you so carefully spaced with needles?
I have one question (well the third actually but who's counting.
) I saw in an earlier photo the three plastic jugs for your dosing system. Mind telling me what size they are (gallons) and where you got them?
Thanks and keep up the good work. :rollface:
I think that's the first shot of your workshop that I've seen and I'm impressed. You seem to have more room than I do. I too have the Leigh jig that I've used many time to make dovetailed drawers (both through and blind). I didn't think of using it to make toothed overflows. I just ordered a couple from Aquacave but need to attach them to glass. Do you know if silicone works to attach plastic to glass? I see that you have the Performax 16 sander too. I really like mine but I think the belt that moves the stock through has lost its "tooth" as it sometimes slips and then the stock stops moving and you end up with a snipe.
I need to replace it.
I tried my first attempt at acrylic when I welded 1/2" dowels to a 1/4" sheet to support my rock above the sand bed. I used the thick cement and really like it. I didn't realize that you need pressure for a good joint. If you do that doesn't it squeeze out the cement from the joint that you so carefully spaced with needles?
I have one question (well the third actually but who's counting.
) I saw in an earlier photo the three plastic jugs for your dosing system. Mind telling me what size they are (gallons) and where you got them?Thanks and keep up the good work. :rollface:
ReefEnabler
Premium Member
Very nice shop.... or are you like me and just park your car outside in the cold? 
congrats on the split. good luck with finishing those acrylic tanks.
congrats on the split. good luck with finishing those acrylic tanks.
