Building My 375gal Glass Reef

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14641602#post14641602 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Ed Reef
Congratulations on your split Tom....
Why ... thank you, Ed. The way your new thread is going, it won't be long before it splits, also. ;) Gonna be one sweet setup!

For anyone who hasn't visited Ed's latest: Ed Reef's Shallow Crest Inspired ART It's a great thread!
 
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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14641602#post14641602 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Ed Reef
Congratulations on your split Tom....

i am sure it will not be the last split

congrats Tom
 
Well, the only main thing left to do in the fish room is build, plumb, and set up the refugium and frag tanks. I'll be using 3/8" cast acrylic sheet to build the tanks. The max height of the tanks will be 16" so 3/8" thick material will be fine - I'll be including a 3" wide Euro-brace on both tanks.

Dimensions:

Frag Tank will be 48" X 24" X 12" or approx. 60 gallons.

Refugium will be 48" X 24" X 16" or approx. 80 gallons.

Both tanks will have an internal overflow box on one end. The tanks will be plumbed to the sump with 2" PVC for the overflow and 1-1/2" PVC for the supply water. I had to install the pipes along three of the fish room walls to get from the frag/fuge location to the sump.

This is how the pipe was installed:

Pipes-2.jpg


I used these clips from Savko.com:

Pipe-Clamp.jpg


If you ever need to attach PVC pipe to a wall, get 'em - they're great!

The frag and fuge tanks will be placed on this stand:

Stand-finished-1.jpg


It was built using 2"X4"s, 2"X6"s, 3/4" ply, 5/8" stainless steel lag bolts, and Formica. The legs are tripled up 2"X4"s, milled to size. Holes have been drilled to handle the overflow and return pipes (although I'm thinking about foregoing the through the bottom return).
 
I'm more impressed each time you post pictures. Sure wish there was a way that I could start all over and implement all of your ideas. Now that your thread has split, it would be nice if you were able to post pictures of your fish room once again.
 
Thanks Alan and Chuck! Chuck, I think I'll be putting together a an overview in the next couple of weeks, after the frag and fuge tanks are built and installed.
 
Wow, Tom. Looks great!! Thanks for the pictures of the clips for holding the pipes. I think I will incorporate into my design too, thanks for the great idea!! :thumbsup:
 
Frag and Fuge cont.:

As in the past, I'd like to say that just about everything I'll be showing here is taken from ideas I got from reading the great threads here on Reef Central.

As material for building the tanks, I purchased two sheets of 3/8" cast acrylic. I could have done with less but I want to use one solid piece to create the tops/euro-bracing. I've learned not to try to "cheap out" and use extruded acrylic for tanks. It's very difficult to cut, rout, and form without melting and it just doesn't have the strength of cast material. The material for the overflow boxes will be 3/8" cast black acrylic. Didn't have to buy any - I've got lots of scrape from a project a couple of years ago.

In case it may be of use to someone, I'll go through the process I use to build acrylic tanks. My tanks are all built in the following order:

1. weld the two ends to one side - ends are on top of side piece
2. turn over and place on top of other side piece - weld in place
3. place side and end construction on top of the top piece - weld in place
4. turn over and place on the bottom piece - weld in place

I will be using the pins method for welding. I use Weld-On 4 solvent. It has the consistency of water and I find it pretty easy to use. You just have to be careful not to splash it around - it leaves nasty marks.

Weld-On-4.jpg


To deliver the solvent I use a squeeze bottle with #25 gauge needle:

Glue-Bottle.jpg


For pins, I've started using #18 acupuncture needles, but I think they are a little too thin for my liking, so I'll probably go back to baggy ties with the paper stripped off:

Needles.jpg


So, as far as the materials needed to do the actual welding - it's very little. I use a small plastic syringe to get the solvent from the can into the squeeze bottle. That makes the following everything I need:

Glueing-Tools.jpg


To be continued ....
 
awesome. please do continue the acrylic-howto. about to start on a few of my own and though there are several threads on the topic, i'd like to see specifically how you're doing it. great work tom.
 
Frag and Fuge cont.:

Some of the tools I use when building an acrylic tank:

Spring clamps. These are great for holding pieces of acrylic together while they are being welded.

Clamp.jpg


Whenever acrylic parts are being welded, pressure is necessary to ensure a perfect joint. Weight can be used to apply that pressure. I've just taken normal building bricks and covered them with duct tape to make portable weights. Works great!

Covered-Bricks.jpg


Other than a table saw, a router is the most important tool when working with flat acrylic. This is a 2-1/4HP model. It has plenty of power but is light enough to be handled easily:

Router.jpg


Whenever two pieces of acrylic need to be welded at a 90 degree angle, this homemade jig works great. The spring clamps hold the acrylic part tightly to the jig:

Side-Braced.jpg


I often have to include overflow weirs in a project:

Weir-Comb-2.jpg


Both of these tanks will need one. There are a number of ways to make them. Most ways have to do with a makeshift jig of some type. This can be difficult, and at times, dangerous.:( I own a woodworking tool from Leigh called a dovetail jig. The Leigh model is very convenient because you can add accessories to accomplish different jobs. One of the accessories I have is for creating finger joints. Finger joints are often used to hold the sides together when making boxes and drawers. The thing about 1/2 of a box joint is - it is exactly like the fingers we need to make a weir comb.

This is the Leigh jig with the finger joint accessory installed:

Leigh-Jig.jpg


Here's a close up of the finger joint jig. You can see the piece of black acrylic stock with a number of fingers already cut. The protective paper is frayed where the cut was made, but the acrylic is cut very cleanly:

Finger-Jig-Close.jpg


Together with a router, the jig makes perfect weir combs, every time. A two edge straight bit is inserted in the router:

Straight-Bit.jpg


Notice that the bit is in a small collar. A piece of acrylic is placed in the jig, under finger joint accessory. The extension on that collar follows the finger extensions on the jig. What comes out is a perfect weir comb:

Weir-Comb.jpg


To be continued ....
 
Tom
I think that's the first shot of your workshop that I've seen and I'm impressed. You seem to have more room than I do. I too have the Leigh jig that I've used many time to make dovetailed drawers (both through and blind). I didn't think of using it to make toothed overflows. I just ordered a couple from Aquacave but need to attach them to glass. Do you know if silicone works to attach plastic to glass? I see that you have the Performax 16 sander too. I really like mine but I think the belt that moves the stock through has lost its "tooth" as it sometimes slips and then the stock stops moving and you end up with a snipe. :mad:
I need to replace it.
I tried my first attempt at acrylic when I welded 1/2" dowels to a 1/4" sheet to support my rock above the sand bed. I used the thick cement and really like it. I didn't realize that you need pressure for a good joint. If you do that doesn't it squeeze out the cement from the joint that you so carefully spaced with needles?
I have one question (well the third actually but who's counting. :p ) I saw in an earlier photo the three plastic jugs for your dosing system. Mind telling me what size they are (gallons) and where you got them?
Thanks and keep up the good work. :rollface:
 
Very nice shop.... or are you like me and just park your car outside in the cold? :)


congrats on the split. good luck with finishing those acrylic tanks.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14645272#post14645272 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by EnglishRebel
... Do you know if silicone works to attach plastic to glass?

Alan, I would definitely use it for an overflow comb, yes.

I didn't realize that you need pressure for a good joint. If you do that doesn't it squeeze out the cement from the joint that you so carefully spaced with needles?

I should have clarified what I was trying to say alittle better. If you're using the pins method, if you don't have pressure you run the danger of the parts not maintaining proper contact. The weight/pressure prevents that from happening. You don't need pressure per se.

... I saw in an earlier photo the three plastic jugs for your dosing system. Mind telling me what size they are (gallons) and where you got them?

They're 2-1/2 gallon. Got them at bulkreefsupply.com
 
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