Building My 375gal Glass Reef
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
The +/- .04 ppm margin of error seems to be describing the unit in general as opposed to to a particular reading. I have used mine to take over 200 readings (over two boxes of reagent packets) and have yet to see the meter read differently on a particular sample more than 3 or 4 times - and then the difference was only .01ppm. In other words, if I take a reading and the result is .03ppm, a reading on the same sample 10 minutes later will also be .03ppm. This consistency is reassuring and seems to indicate a rather accurate meter.
I seem to be having a bit of a problem reaching and maintaining a pH of 8.5 to fight the dinoflagellates. The pH reaches 8.51 in the afternoon, but drops to approx. 8.39 at night. 
I've been using a Kalkreactor I built a couple of years ago and never used. The functionality is pretty simple - an Eheim 1248 is run on a timer (the same one that handles the mixing of my saltwater storage tank) for about 15 minutes every 3 hours to stir up a bunch of calcium hydroxide. If I remember correctly, the design came from a Maco course I took. The reactor is fed by my ATO unit, so that all evaporated water is replaced by kalkwasser
Here are some pics:
The strange looking contraption in the upper (cylindrical) chamber, is a sieve made from 10 micron screening. It's intended to filter any solid particles out of the top off water.
The feed to the reactor is via a John Guest check valve. It eliminates the possibility of a back flow.
I've been using a Kalkreactor I built a couple of years ago and never used. The functionality is pretty simple - an Eheim 1248 is run on a timer (the same one that handles the mixing of my saltwater storage tank) for about 15 minutes every 3 hours to stir up a bunch of calcium hydroxide. If I remember correctly, the design came from a Maco course I took. The reactor is fed by my ATO unit, so that all evaporated water is replaced by kalkwasser
Here are some pics:
The strange looking contraption in the upper (cylindrical) chamber, is a sieve made from 10 micron screening. It's intended to filter any solid particles out of the top off water.
The feed to the reactor is via a John Guest check valve. It eliminates the possibility of a back flow.
Good idea! Currently, I'm limited by the amount of evaporation. Maybe I should try directing a fan at the sump to increase the amount evaporated.
Yeah - I've been putting it off - but I'm gonna have to hook up some lights. Are the 6500 CFL bulbs the ones you can get at the Big Boxes?
stealle
Premium Member
Yeah, you can get them at any Lowe's, Home Depot, Menard's, probably even a limited selction at wal-mart.
You've probably already seen Melev's (Marc's) study on these bulbs. Scroll down to the very bottom of this link for pics of the bulbs. http://www.melevsreef.com/fuge_bulb.html
He found that the 5100k bulbs where ideal. 5100k might be hard to find. I think 6500K is just about as good (or anything in between).
one way to accomplish this is to have two reservoirs for top off, your Kalk reactor and a fresh water RO/DI. Then setup your controller to use the fresh water at ph>8.5 and Kalk at ph<8.5
That you for the kind words.
As for the chiller, it is indeed, causing a problem. When the outside temperature exceeds 80deg for a couple of days, my air exhaust system can't keep up with the chiller's heat. Before sommer rolls around I'll be installing the chiller outside.
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reefrubble
Premium Member
I think , a split system chiller is the best way to go . All the heat goes outside . Tom , I think you would be very pleased with a split system . Ted
Carlos Arouche
New member
Sorry for interrupting... but i never saw a split Chiller... is there anything like that ?
Best regards.
Best regards.
You're definitely not interrupting, Carlos. There is such a thing as a split chiller - and Ted (Reefrubble) is going to help me build one.
Ted, why don't you explain a little bit about what needs to be done.
BTW: sorry for all the misspelling in my last post
Dave's Reef
New member
Yes, I've been changing water automatically, almost from the beginning. Here's a pic of the setup:
I've had no issues at all, so far. I really think going automatic is one of the best decision I've made about my system. I change 20 liters (5-1/4gals) a day. As you can see in the pic, I use a LiterMeter III. It spreads the change out to 150 increments every 24 hours. The very small amounts cganged in each increment mean I don't have to worry about the temperature of the new water. Up to a point (and within reason) the salinity (SP) doesn't even matter.
An interesting point - I dose Alk, Ca, and Mg automatically. The constant water changes facilitates very stable parameters, and it minimizes the amount of supplements I need to dose. At this point, my system is approx. 400gals and I only need to dose about 160ml of each supplement per day! I attribute that to the constant water changes functioning, up to a point, as additional supplement dosing.
Hi Tom,
Just checking in to see if you had posted any new pics. Sure would LOVE to see some updated photos. Wink, wink, nudge, nudge, know what I mean?
Anyhow, I had a question for you about your LM3, I have one myself and love it! I bought it primarily with the intention of doing automatic water changes but have only been using it for automated top off so far. It works like a charm for this and is one of the nicest things I've done for myself since setting up the new tank!
My question for you is this, what kind of system do you have for making your fresh salt water? That is to say, since it's all automated do you have a separate container to make fresh salt water in and then transfer it into another that has the draw line for the LM3? I'm just trying to figure out how I'll set mine up and give the newly made salt water at least 24 hours to mix thoroughly before being used for the automated water changes.
I'd love to hear what you're doing when you get a chance,
Thanks!
PS: and PLEASE can we see some current photo's??? :wave:
Dave's Reef
New member
Thanks Dave! I'm just sorry I couldn't have given a lead on a place to buy the wire channels at a cheaper price. They are definitely a rip off considering what you get.
BTW - I just skimmed through your thread - don't know how I missed it, sorry. Very impressive, is my first though. I'll check it out, in detail, tonight.
No problem about the HD thing, I didn't feel ripped off at all.
And thank you so very much for your kind words about my thread! I feel very honored to hear you say such flattering things about my meager little set up. I tried to do the best I could but there are a few things I would liked to have done differently but just couldn't wait I guess. Mainly, I wanted to devise some sort of automated lift for my canopy but couldn't find anything that would work for my canopy and how the tank is situated in the corner the way it is.
Anyhow, thank so much and please leave a note next time you drop in to my thread. I love all the feedback and appreciate any words of advice you may have!
Lastly, sorry about the picture requests, I just found some a few pages back from the current page, lol! :crazy1:
stealle
Premium Member
Tom made a nice index when the thread split here: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1601313
If you go all the way back to the beginning... Page 1 and 2 he has pictures and describes his saltwater mixing station. Also page 28 and 29 show his plumbing and pumps for the ATO and continuous water change system. (although those pictures he was using different water change pumps at that time).
Not a lot has changed lately, Dave. I've been fighting a bad case of dinoflagellates, so I haven't done a lot of picture taking. As soon as things get a little better I'll be sure and get some new pics up.
In addition to what I wrote about my SW changing routine, earlier in the thread, here is a direct answer to your question. First, take a look at this pic:
You'll see that I have both SW and FW storage tanks. Now take a look at Note 1, it shows a "T" connection. The "T" is fed from the RO/DI unit. When the float switches, in the FW tank, "tell" it to, a solenoid opens allowing water to flow into the FW storage tank. This happens through the white tubing which leads directly from the "T" to the FW tank. I should note that the tubing into the tank terminates with a float VALVE - this precludes the tank from overflowing, should there be a problem with the solenoid, float switches, or ATO in general.
Everything described above happens automatically. For SW it's different. Note 2 shows a John Guest valve. This valve leads to the SW tank and is also terminated with a float VALVE, for safety. There is a float switch, in the SW tank, that signals an acoustical alarm just before the SW tank is empty. When this happens I open the John Guest valve and allow RO?DI water to enter then SW tank. When the tank is full the float VALVE closes and the RO?DI stops. The John Guest valve is then manually closed.
At this point I add 4 pre-measured containers of TMP salt and turn on a circulation pump which mixes the water. I leave the pump on for about 8 hours - after that a timer turns the pump on for 15 minutes every 3 hours.
From the above, you can see that a water change consists of turning a valve, twice - turning a pump on and off - and dumping in 65 gals worth of salt. Very quick and very easy.
As soon as things get a little better I'll be sure and get some new pics up.In addition to what I wrote about my SW changing routine, earlier in the thread, here is a direct answer to your question. First, take a look at this pic:
You'll see that I have both SW and FW storage tanks. Now take a look at Note 1, it shows a "T" connection. The "T" is fed from the RO/DI unit. When the float switches, in the FW tank, "tell" it to, a solenoid opens allowing water to flow into the FW storage tank. This happens through the white tubing which leads directly from the "T" to the FW tank. I should note that the tubing into the tank terminates with a float VALVE - this precludes the tank from overflowing, should there be a problem with the solenoid, float switches, or ATO in general.
Everything described above happens automatically. For SW it's different. Note 2 shows a John Guest valve. This valve leads to the SW tank and is also terminated with a float VALVE, for safety. There is a float switch, in the SW tank, that signals an acoustical alarm just before the SW tank is empty. When this happens I open the John Guest valve and allow RO?DI water to enter then SW tank. When the tank is full the float VALVE closes and the RO?DI stops. The John Guest valve is then manually closed.
At this point I add 4 pre-measured containers of TMP salt and turn on a circulation pump which mixes the water. I leave the pump on for about 8 hours - after that a timer turns the pump on for 15 minutes every 3 hours.
From the above, you can see that a water change consists of turning a valve, twice - turning a pump on and off - and dumping in 65 gals worth of salt. Very quick and very easy.
Thanks for the link! I just ordered a couple bulbs from the site referenced by Melev.
