Buying a RO/DI unit --- Which one?
- Thread starter sellout007
- Start date
sellout007
New member
ostrow said:
Yeah I noticed that he had a similar name on the homepage.
RandalB said:
Will do, and thanks. o)
jdieck
New member
Here is my take on Ro/DI units Note this is Part 1 of 2: 
First some general coments:
For an RO/DI unit
A capacity of 25 gpd will cost you almost the same as a 50 or a 75 so it is your choice but for just a bit more you can get a 75 gpd unit.
There are usually 4 or 5 stages (be careful many manufacturers consider stages the number of filters rather then real stages so don't get confused by these)
a) First Stage: Sediment filtration. Filter quality for sediments is measured by two things one is the maximum particle diameter that will pass and by if the particle size is average or absolute.
The best filter there is is a 0.5 micron absolute some of the worst will be 5 to 10 micron average. A good compromise between cost and efficiency will be 1 micron near absolute.
A good sediment filter is required to prevent plugging of the carbon filter (next stage) and plugging of the membrane thus, the better the sediment filter the longer the membrane life.
b) Second stage (Activated Carbon Filtration): this stage is to remove volatile organics and chlorine. Chlorine is very damaging to the membrane so you need a good carbon filter. Carbon filters can be Carbon block or granulated. Carbon blocks come in different porus sizes the best being again 0.5 microns. Granulated Carbon I will consider worthless as there is channeling of the water which will not be uniformely treated.
Carbon block filters also have a rated capacity. for example a 0.5 micron carbon block filter can proces up to 20,000 gallons before it has to be replaced when a normal 1 micron carbon block filter will process about 6000 gallons. Here is were some manufacturers try confusing you by using two carbon cartridges of lower quality (May be even granular) and then tell you that their system is better because it has one more stage. I would prefer a higher quality filter and have a single one. It is cheaper in the long term. Unfortunately you can not use a 0.05 micron carbon block unles you also use a 0.5 micron sediment filter so a good compromise cost versus performance will be to use a 1 micron carbon blcok filter.
Something to note is that if your water is treated with Chloramines the carbon will break the chloramine removing the chlorine turning the chloramine into Ammonia which will require a special DI cartridge to remove.
Third Stage: Reverse Osmosis membrane: This is the heart of the system. The membrane types used for our system are referred to as TFC (Thin Film Composite) The most reliable ones are manufactured by Dow chemical under the brand of Filmtec. Those are the ones you are looking for.
The quality of the membrane is measured by it's rejection ratio. This is the amount of dissolved solids it will reject versus the amount it lets pass. standard membranes have a rejection ratio around 95% to 97% usually membranes of 25, 50 and 75 gpd capacity. The cheapest has a rejection of only 90% usually the 100 gpd one and the best have rejection ratios of 98.5 to 99.5%.
The rejection ratio is important because the more disolved solids it let pass the shorter the life of the DI cartridges will be.
It is not easy to find the Ultra high rejection membranes (98.5 to 99.5%) as they are not produced on purpose. If you want one you will need to buy it from a manufacturer that tests the membranes that they receive in a lot and crop the best ones out. The only one that I know offers this service and I could trust will be Spectrapure. A good compromise will be a standard Filmtec membrane 25 to 75 gpd capacity (Stay away from the 100 or from non Dow Chemical manufactured ones even when they say they use Dow film to manufacture the membrane.) Here some manufacturers try to sell the TFC concept as manufactured by Dow so be alert.
To be continued....
First some general coments:
For an RO/DI unit
A capacity of 25 gpd will cost you almost the same as a 50 or a 75 so it is your choice but for just a bit more you can get a 75 gpd unit.
There are usually 4 or 5 stages (be careful many manufacturers consider stages the number of filters rather then real stages so don't get confused by these)
a) First Stage: Sediment filtration. Filter quality for sediments is measured by two things one is the maximum particle diameter that will pass and by if the particle size is average or absolute.
The best filter there is is a 0.5 micron absolute some of the worst will be 5 to 10 micron average. A good compromise between cost and efficiency will be 1 micron near absolute.
A good sediment filter is required to prevent plugging of the carbon filter (next stage) and plugging of the membrane thus, the better the sediment filter the longer the membrane life.
b) Second stage (Activated Carbon Filtration): this stage is to remove volatile organics and chlorine. Chlorine is very damaging to the membrane so you need a good carbon filter. Carbon filters can be Carbon block or granulated. Carbon blocks come in different porus sizes the best being again 0.5 microns. Granulated Carbon I will consider worthless as there is channeling of the water which will not be uniformely treated.
Carbon block filters also have a rated capacity. for example a 0.5 micron carbon block filter can proces up to 20,000 gallons before it has to be replaced when a normal 1 micron carbon block filter will process about 6000 gallons. Here is were some manufacturers try confusing you by using two carbon cartridges of lower quality (May be even granular) and then tell you that their system is better because it has one more stage. I would prefer a higher quality filter and have a single one. It is cheaper in the long term. Unfortunately you can not use a 0.05 micron carbon block unles you also use a 0.5 micron sediment filter so a good compromise cost versus performance will be to use a 1 micron carbon blcok filter.
Something to note is that if your water is treated with Chloramines the carbon will break the chloramine removing the chlorine turning the chloramine into Ammonia which will require a special DI cartridge to remove.
Third Stage: Reverse Osmosis membrane: This is the heart of the system. The membrane types used for our system are referred to as TFC (Thin Film Composite) The most reliable ones are manufactured by Dow chemical under the brand of Filmtec. Those are the ones you are looking for.
The quality of the membrane is measured by it's rejection ratio. This is the amount of dissolved solids it will reject versus the amount it lets pass. standard membranes have a rejection ratio around 95% to 97% usually membranes of 25, 50 and 75 gpd capacity. The cheapest has a rejection of only 90% usually the 100 gpd one and the best have rejection ratios of 98.5 to 99.5%.
The rejection ratio is important because the more disolved solids it let pass the shorter the life of the DI cartridges will be.
It is not easy to find the Ultra high rejection membranes (98.5 to 99.5%) as they are not produced on purpose. If you want one you will need to buy it from a manufacturer that tests the membranes that they receive in a lot and crop the best ones out. The only one that I know offers this service and I could trust will be Spectrapure. A good compromise will be a standard Filmtec membrane 25 to 75 gpd capacity (Stay away from the 100 or from non Dow Chemical manufactured ones even when they say they use Dow film to manufacture the membrane.) Here some manufacturers try to sell the TFC concept as manufactured by Dow so be alert.
To be continued....
jdieck
New member
Part 2 of 2
Four stage: De-Ionization: If your tap water is not heavy with dissolved solids (Less than 200 ppm) or is not trated with chloramine you can get away with a single DI cartridge. If your water is chloramine treated or has heavy dissolved solids (More than 200 ppm) then you need two DI stages.
The DI cartridges are many types depending on the resin used and how the resin is packed in the cartridge.
There are resins to remove Anions only, there are resins to remove Cations and there are mixed resins to remove both.
Also the quality of the resin comes into account, the top quality are the resins used by the electronic industry (Chip manufacturers) for the water they use in cleaning the acids out of the boards but those will cost twice as much.
For mixed cartridges there are basically two types, one a mixed bed and the other one is a mixed resin. In the first case the top half of the cartridge is Anion resin and the bottom part (Inlet) is Cation resin. In the second case both resins are intermixed along the cartridge. In my opinion the mixed bed is better as it is better to first remove the Cations and then the Anions but if your water contains a high level of dissolved CO2 the Cation portion will not last long unless you add an Anion only cartridge before the mixed bed cartridge.
Tere is also color indicating and non-color indicating resins. Color indicating resins are very practical because with a progresive change in color they will indicate when they are bing exausted. Otherwise you need a Dissolved solids meter or monitor to detect when it is exaused. Unfortunately color indicating resines do not achieve as high a degree of purity as the non indicating so if you will have two DI stages I would recomend a color indicating resin for the first DI filter and a non indicating resin for the final stage and use a monitor or meter. This way you will know when the first filter is being exausted without having to disconect it and you use the meter for the second cartridge to measure the final water product.
I would recomend you to get a system with two stages of De-Ionization. If you do not have chloramine I would use an Indicating Anion cartridge for the first to remove as much Silicate and Phosphate I can and then a mixed bed or mixed non indicating as the second cartridge.
If you have chloramine I will use the same Indicating Anion cartridge as the first but I would request an Ammonia removing mixed bed cartridge for the second.
OK that covers the basic filtration. Now to other features:
If the pressure of your tap water is below 45 psi you will need a booster pump (May double the cost of the system). At low pressure (or low temperature) the production capacity drops significantly. In the winter time when the water is very cold and if the pressure is low I would not be surprised if no water is produced at all.
Auto shut off valve: If you will have a top off system or a tank that will fill up with a float, once the float shuts off the product water flow there is still waste water being produced.
(By the way, ROs waste about 4 times the volume of water they produce, in other words you pump 5 in and you get one out as product and four as waste.) To automatically close the waste water when the product water you need an Auto Shut Off valve (ASOV) which is a valve that detects the increase in pressure in the product line when the float shuts and closes the water input to the system.
Membrane flush kit): This is just a bypass valve so you can bypass the flow restrictor in the waste line so alowing for high flow over the membrane surface to flush away any solids or deposits that may shorten the membrane life.
There are more optional features like drinking water kits, automatic purge and flush systems, pressurized tanks and such but I will let those for the next session.
Hope this helped.
Four stage: De-Ionization: If your tap water is not heavy with dissolved solids (Less than 200 ppm) or is not trated with chloramine you can get away with a single DI cartridge. If your water is chloramine treated or has heavy dissolved solids (More than 200 ppm) then you need two DI stages.
The DI cartridges are many types depending on the resin used and how the resin is packed in the cartridge.
There are resins to remove Anions only, there are resins to remove Cations and there are mixed resins to remove both.
Also the quality of the resin comes into account, the top quality are the resins used by the electronic industry (Chip manufacturers) for the water they use in cleaning the acids out of the boards but those will cost twice as much.
For mixed cartridges there are basically two types, one a mixed bed and the other one is a mixed resin. In the first case the top half of the cartridge is Anion resin and the bottom part (Inlet) is Cation resin. In the second case both resins are intermixed along the cartridge. In my opinion the mixed bed is better as it is better to first remove the Cations and then the Anions but if your water contains a high level of dissolved CO2 the Cation portion will not last long unless you add an Anion only cartridge before the mixed bed cartridge.
Tere is also color indicating and non-color indicating resins. Color indicating resins are very practical because with a progresive change in color they will indicate when they are bing exausted. Otherwise you need a Dissolved solids meter or monitor to detect when it is exaused. Unfortunately color indicating resines do not achieve as high a degree of purity as the non indicating so if you will have two DI stages I would recomend a color indicating resin for the first DI filter and a non indicating resin for the final stage and use a monitor or meter. This way you will know when the first filter is being exausted without having to disconect it and you use the meter for the second cartridge to measure the final water product.
I would recomend you to get a system with two stages of De-Ionization. If you do not have chloramine I would use an Indicating Anion cartridge for the first to remove as much Silicate and Phosphate I can and then a mixed bed or mixed non indicating as the second cartridge.
If you have chloramine I will use the same Indicating Anion cartridge as the first but I would request an Ammonia removing mixed bed cartridge for the second.
OK that covers the basic filtration. Now to other features:
If the pressure of your tap water is below 45 psi you will need a booster pump (May double the cost of the system). At low pressure (or low temperature) the production capacity drops significantly. In the winter time when the water is very cold and if the pressure is low I would not be surprised if no water is produced at all.
Auto shut off valve: If you will have a top off system or a tank that will fill up with a float, once the float shuts off the product water flow there is still waste water being produced.
(By the way, ROs waste about 4 times the volume of water they produce, in other words you pump 5 in and you get one out as product and four as waste.) To automatically close the waste water when the product water you need an Auto Shut Off valve (ASOV) which is a valve that detects the increase in pressure in the product line when the float shuts and closes the water input to the system.
Membrane flush kit): This is just a bypass valve so you can bypass the flow restrictor in the waste line so alowing for high flow over the membrane surface to flush away any solids or deposits that may shorten the membrane life.
There are more optional features like drinking water kits, automatic purge and flush systems, pressurized tanks and such but I will let those for the next session.
Hope this helped.
jdieck
New member
More on the same! Part One
What makes it difficult to select an RO/DI is that (And I do not know why) this topic is full of lies and misinformation promoted mostly by some manufacturers and moles in the forums.
This is the reason I wanted to take the time and tell the differences in the stages and details in the filters in my previous posts.
Cheap systems have to save money werever they can and that results in poor performance one way or another.
They may ask you what is the issue if you get 0 TDS anyhow. Well the issue is that 0 is not really 0, with the cheap meters we commonly use and also when it is zero it may be at a sacrifice of membrane life, excessive DI resin consumption or a large drop in rated capacity.
In my opinion the cheaper systems do not use Dow membranes and manipulate the capacity, they basically sell the 100 gpd system which rejects only 90% so your DI cartridge consumption double or triple, to make it worst their DI cartridges are too small to be effective. This systems are basically manufactured for drinking water were you do not need as pure water as for aquariums. Their cheaper versions are missing either the ASOV valve, The Pressure gauge or the membrane flush valve or the three of them, this items alone can hit their cost by about 50 to 60 bucks and these are necessary items. If they miss a purity monitor or meter that is another $40.00 you may later have to procure so in all you can pay $100 or a $120 for a unit just to find out you need another $100 in missing necessary options that shall not be options at all and on top of that you end up with low quality membranes and filters.
As an example you can get the granular carbon filters or cheap block carbons for $8 to $10 bucks but they are good for no more than 1000 gal and they need to install two of them. Compare this with a $18.00 0.5 micron carbon block for 20,000 gallons that means you will need to spend $8 x 2 x 20=$320 dollars to get the equivalent of what you get with $18.00. Yes you get 0 TDS with the systems and they can save you some bucks in your initial purchase but they will make tons of money selling you the replacments.
They can use a cheap membrane that costs $35.00 rather than $100.00 but then you will be replacing DI cartridges twice as fast or even worst you expect a capacity of say 75 gallons and end up with an actual capacity of less than 30 gallons and in this case the wasted water rather than being 4 to 1 increases to 6 to 1 meaning you waste 50% more water than you should.
So in this case you get what you pay for and then later you need to pay some more.
For these reason I would automatically discard those cheap units. That will leave you really with two relatively good options. The Typhoon III system from air-water ice (also popular with good service) or one of the units from Spectrapure (Although the best there is it is not so popular given it's initial cost. They also have super service)
To be Continued....
What makes it difficult to select an RO/DI is that (And I do not know why) this topic is full of lies and misinformation promoted mostly by some manufacturers and moles in the forums.
This is the reason I wanted to take the time and tell the differences in the stages and details in the filters in my previous posts.
Cheap systems have to save money werever they can and that results in poor performance one way or another.
They may ask you what is the issue if you get 0 TDS anyhow. Well the issue is that 0 is not really 0, with the cheap meters we commonly use and also when it is zero it may be at a sacrifice of membrane life, excessive DI resin consumption or a large drop in rated capacity.
In my opinion the cheaper systems do not use Dow membranes and manipulate the capacity, they basically sell the 100 gpd system which rejects only 90% so your DI cartridge consumption double or triple, to make it worst their DI cartridges are too small to be effective. This systems are basically manufactured for drinking water were you do not need as pure water as for aquariums. Their cheaper versions are missing either the ASOV valve, The Pressure gauge or the membrane flush valve or the three of them, this items alone can hit their cost by about 50 to 60 bucks and these are necessary items. If they miss a purity monitor or meter that is another $40.00 you may later have to procure so in all you can pay $100 or a $120 for a unit just to find out you need another $100 in missing necessary options that shall not be options at all and on top of that you end up with low quality membranes and filters.
As an example you can get the granular carbon filters or cheap block carbons for $8 to $10 bucks but they are good for no more than 1000 gal and they need to install two of them. Compare this with a $18.00 0.5 micron carbon block for 20,000 gallons that means you will need to spend $8 x 2 x 20=$320 dollars to get the equivalent of what you get with $18.00. Yes you get 0 TDS with the systems and they can save you some bucks in your initial purchase but they will make tons of money selling you the replacments.
They can use a cheap membrane that costs $35.00 rather than $100.00 but then you will be replacing DI cartridges twice as fast or even worst you expect a capacity of say 75 gallons and end up with an actual capacity of less than 30 gallons and in this case the wasted water rather than being 4 to 1 increases to 6 to 1 meaning you waste 50% more water than you should.
So in this case you get what you pay for and then later you need to pay some more.
For these reason I would automatically discard those cheap units. That will leave you really with two relatively good options. The Typhoon III system from air-water ice (also popular with good service) or one of the units from Spectrapure (Although the best there is it is not so popular given it's initial cost. They also have super service)
To be Continued....
sellout007
New member
Would you be mad if that just confused me more? O)
See my problem is I have no idea what is in my water, or anything so I wouldnt know where to start!
But that was a boat load of info and its good to have and thanks for taking the time to write it all out! Im going to read it a few more times while looking at the actual units for sale and maybe I can piece it together. o)
See my problem is I have no idea what is in my water, or anything so I wouldnt know where to start!
But that was a boat load of info and its good to have and thanks for taking the time to write it all out! Im going to read it a few more times while looking at the actual units for sale and maybe I can piece it together. o)
jdieck
New member
Here we go again... Part Two of Two:
Lets see what they have, I will try to compare the Typhon III which they say is 5 stage but in reality is four processing stages with five filters
http://www.airwaterice.com/product/1TYPHOONIII
with the spectra 4 stage
http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merc...y_Code=SP4stage
a) Membrane: Both Dow Filmtec same membrane. Typhoon claims 75 gpd standard for 96 to 98% rejection, Spectra Claims 90 gpd Their Ultra High rejection tested so 98%+ How could the capacity be different? At tap pressure both will give you between 50 to 60 gpd at 45 psi. Spectra is rating the capacity at 60 psi while Typhoon is rating the capacity at 50 psi. The Manufacturers rated capacity will be 75 gpd
b) Sediment Filter: Spectra = 0.5 micron; Typhoon = 10 micron barely acceptable when you consider that he uses 5 micron and 1 micron carbon filters that then will get plugged. I would request that my Typhoon be fitted with a 1 micron sediment rather than the 10 micron, they shall are able to do it for the same price and they give you the option.
c) Carbon Filter: Spectra = 0.5 micron carbon block 20,000 gal capacity. Typhoon uses two lower grade carbon block good for about 6000 gallons. Eventhough this is a cost issue it might turn into an advantage. Once these are exausted you can replace one of them for a single higher quality 0.5 micron (20,000 gal) or 1 micron (6000 gal) and use the second housing to add an additional DI stage that you will need if your water is trated with chloramine.
d) DI cartridge: Both systems use a single cartridge, Spectrapure=Non Color indicating custom resin mixed bed focused on silica phosphate and metals secures higher capacity by maintaining resin properly sealed in air tight wrapping; Typoon=Generic mixed resin color indicating
e) Pressure Gauge: Both
f) Purity tracking: Spectrapure uses on line monitor with sensitivity down to 0.3 ppm but there is no ppm reading, instead a green or red light indicates pass or no pass. Typhoon provides a hand held TDS meter that reads PPM but typical sensitivity is +/- 2 PPM so you may read 0 but could be anything in between 0 to 4=2 PPM (2 ppm shall be no much of an issue for a reef in any case.)
g) Auto Shut Off valve: Both; Note: Spectra I understand ASOV is standard in all their system but you need to insure is included as they do not advertise it as such. If not included add $30.00 for it
h) Filter Wrench: Both
i) Membrane (Fast) Flush: Typhoon=Included; Spectrapure = Optional add $15.00
j) Faucet Connector: Typhon= Optional either faucet or hose connector Add $4.00 for hose or $7.00 for faucet, Spectra includes Hose Connector add $7.00 for faucet.
k) Waste water connector: Thyphoon included saddle connection, Spectrapure = Optional add $6.00
l) RO water sample / DI Bypass: Typhoon = Included; Spectra = Optional add three way valve $18.00
m) Product shut off valve: Typhoon = Included, Spectra= Optional Add $8.00
n) Fast connectors: Both John Guest push in connectors. All tubing included.
o) Filter housing: Both transparent
Cost: Typhoon $199.00 Spectra: $320.00 plus about $50.00 in accesories to match Typhoon features
In summary Although Spectra has top quality rating filters it is a lot more expensive. Typhoon II is an excellent value when you consider that later on a simple change of tubing connections to set one carbon housing at the outlet of the membrane and have it as a second DI and once the filters need replacement you can use the higher end you can end up with the Spectra quality filtration at a lot lower initial cost.
Enjoy!
Lets see what they have, I will try to compare the Typhon III which they say is 5 stage but in reality is four processing stages with five filters
http://www.airwaterice.com/product/1TYPHOONIII
with the spectra 4 stage
http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merc...y_Code=SP4stage
a) Membrane: Both Dow Filmtec same membrane. Typhoon claims 75 gpd standard for 96 to 98% rejection, Spectra Claims 90 gpd Their Ultra High rejection tested so 98%+ How could the capacity be different? At tap pressure both will give you between 50 to 60 gpd at 45 psi. Spectra is rating the capacity at 60 psi while Typhoon is rating the capacity at 50 psi. The Manufacturers rated capacity will be 75 gpd
b) Sediment Filter: Spectra = 0.5 micron; Typhoon = 10 micron barely acceptable when you consider that he uses 5 micron and 1 micron carbon filters that then will get plugged. I would request that my Typhoon be fitted with a 1 micron sediment rather than the 10 micron, they shall are able to do it for the same price and they give you the option.
c) Carbon Filter: Spectra = 0.5 micron carbon block 20,000 gal capacity. Typhoon uses two lower grade carbon block good for about 6000 gallons. Eventhough this is a cost issue it might turn into an advantage. Once these are exausted you can replace one of them for a single higher quality 0.5 micron (20,000 gal) or 1 micron (6000 gal) and use the second housing to add an additional DI stage that you will need if your water is trated with chloramine.
d) DI cartridge: Both systems use a single cartridge, Spectrapure=Non Color indicating custom resin mixed bed focused on silica phosphate and metals secures higher capacity by maintaining resin properly sealed in air tight wrapping; Typoon=Generic mixed resin color indicating
e) Pressure Gauge: Both
f) Purity tracking: Spectrapure uses on line monitor with sensitivity down to 0.3 ppm but there is no ppm reading, instead a green or red light indicates pass or no pass. Typhoon provides a hand held TDS meter that reads PPM but typical sensitivity is +/- 2 PPM so you may read 0 but could be anything in between 0 to 4=2 PPM (2 ppm shall be no much of an issue for a reef in any case.)
g) Auto Shut Off valve: Both; Note: Spectra I understand ASOV is standard in all their system but you need to insure is included as they do not advertise it as such. If not included add $30.00 for it
h) Filter Wrench: Both
i) Membrane (Fast) Flush: Typhoon=Included; Spectrapure = Optional add $15.00
j) Faucet Connector: Typhon= Optional either faucet or hose connector Add $4.00 for hose or $7.00 for faucet, Spectra includes Hose Connector add $7.00 for faucet.
k) Waste water connector: Thyphoon included saddle connection, Spectrapure = Optional add $6.00
l) RO water sample / DI Bypass: Typhoon = Included; Spectra = Optional add three way valve $18.00
m) Product shut off valve: Typhoon = Included, Spectra= Optional Add $8.00
n) Fast connectors: Both John Guest push in connectors. All tubing included.
o) Filter housing: Both transparent
Cost: Typhoon $199.00 Spectra: $320.00 plus about $50.00 in accesories to match Typhoon features
In summary Although Spectra has top quality rating filters it is a lot more expensive. Typhoon II is an excellent value when you consider that later on a simple change of tubing connections to set one carbon housing at the outlet of the membrane and have it as a second DI and once the filters need replacement you can use the higher end you can end up with the Spectra quality filtration at a lot lower initial cost.
Enjoy!
jdieck
New member
sellout007 said:
Information overload??
Sorry about that.May be the last part of the post clarify it better. Really the only thing you need to know is if your tap water is treated with Chloramines. If you have low pressure you will find out soon enough and the booster pump can be added later if necessary.
By the way here is a good set of articles in case you have not seen them:
What is TDS:
http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-04/rhf/feature/index.htm
Tap Water in Reef Aquaria
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/jan2004/chem.htm
Chloaramine in the reef aquarium:
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-11/rhf/feature/index.htm
RO/DI
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-05/rhf/index.htm
sellout007
New member
jdieck said:Information overload??
May be the last part of the post clarify it better. Really the only thing you need to know is if your tap water is treated with Chloramines. If you have low pressure you will find out soon enough and the booster pump can be added later if necessary.
By the way here is a good set of articles in case you have not seen them:
What is TDS:
http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-04/rhf/feature/index.htm
Tap Water in Reef Aquaria
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/jan2004/chem.htm
Chloaramine in the reef aquarium:
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-11/rhf/feature/index.htm
RO/DI
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-05/rhf/index.htm
Information Overload is an understatment.
I have to read the last two parts, maybe it will clarify! Thanks though!
sellout007
New member
jdieck - What do you think about this one? Its more in my price range. O)
http://airwaterice.com/product/1TYPHOON
http://airwaterice.com/product/1TYPHOON
jdieck
New member
sellout007 said:
That is an scaled down version of the Typhoon III although The Typhoon in the link includes the float, it is missing the following:
a) Pressure gauge = $ 10.00 value
b) Membrane fast flush = $ 10.00 value
c) TDS meter = $25.00
d) DI bypass = $13.00
e) RO only valve = $8.00
For both you need to decide if you want a hose adaptor (additional $4.00) or a faucet adaptor (Additional $7.00) to connect them to the tap system.
From the above list you will find out that you wish you have had the Gauge and the TDS meter and that the fast flush is almost a must to extend the membrane life. Those items alone make for a difference of $45.00 if purchased separately.
So If you get the Typhoon and want to add what you need it will cost:
Unit $159.00
Gauge $10.00
Fast Flush $ 10.00
Meter $25.00
Total: $204.00 Plus the faucet or hose adaptor plus S&H
If you get the Thypoon III
Unit $199.00
Float valve $15.00
Total $214.00 Plus the faucet or hose adaptor plus S&H
But you get the RO tap valve and the DI bypass to drain the initial product water.
SO I would say that they are basically equivalent with the advantage of the Typhon II pre installed with the gauge and fast flush.
In any case talk with them, you may convince then to throw in the float for the Typoon III as they are ofering with the lesser model and does not make sense that a better model does not have a feature of a lesser one.
Either one you purchase I would recomend you to request a 1 micron sediment filter and the 75 gpd membrane.
A Note on the use of the float valve:
That kind of float is very useful for filling up say youor RO/DI storage drum or mixing tank but it is not good for top off or to keep the level in the sump.
Every time the system start the first couple of gallons contain impurities. As the float in the sump will activate too frequently and produce a small amount every time you will get bad water too frequently.
If filling a drum you can trow away the first gallon (This is what the DI bypass valve is for) and the produce a larger batch, once the drum is full the system will stop so if you forget you let it filling you will not get a flood.
chrismhaase
Active member
look at hbwatersystems.com
sellout007
New member
gotfish8 said:Sellout anything is better than the tap water and chlorine remover you have been using. You can always start small and biuld on to it as $$$$ CC company increases your limit LOL
*laughs*
Yeah thats true, but Id rather just bite the bullet and get it over with now.
jdieck said:
So basically just go with the one you had listed, right? I dont really want to use the auto top off for my sump as I simply cant right now. Tank is no where near a faucet and plumbing one in is not an option anyway. Would be nice i guess for my tub I want to have though like you mentioned. I am quite forgetfull.
All I want is something that is going to make really clean water so I dont have to worry about the crap in my tank.
And when you mentioned this...
"SO I would say that they are basically equivalent with the advantage of the Typhon II pre installed with the gauge and fast flush."
Which one did you mean, the Typhoon or the Typhoon 3?? I dont see a 2 in your response? Im assuming the 3.
Man, that brings the total to like $250 with shipping. BLAH. I hate spending all this money....
jdieck
New member
sellout007 said:
Sorry I meant the III.
Yes $ 250 is high when you think you can spend $100.00 in an e-Bay unit but you get what you pay for.
By the way I want to note that I do not use the Typhon and I do not need to endorse it, that is why I tried to provide as much information as possible to back up why I think is a good value despite paying twice as much initially.
Here is my totally unnecesarely overdesigned toy just because it can be done...
Final water purity close to absolute 18 Megohm.RO/DI water pumped purification unit 165 gpd high rejection 99%+ dual membrane system with 0.5 micron sediment; 0.5 micron carbon block, dual Filmtec Ultrahigh rejection membranes (Gets 1 TDS after RO before DI) Strong Anion DI cartridge, Ammonia Remover DI cartridge and mixed bed electronic grade resin DI cartridge.
Includes Inlet water pressure gauge, Sediment filter pressure drop gauge, ouput pressure gauge, membrane rejection meter, ouput purity monitor, automatic osmotic level controller and safety floats, automatic pass to drain system, automatic membrane flush system as well as automatic high flow booster pump start stop system.
Enjoy!
sellout007
New member
jdieck said:Final water purity close to absolute 18 Megohm.
RO/DI water pumped purification unit 165 gpd high rejection 99%+ dual membrane system with 0.5 micron sediment; 0.5 micron carbon block, dual Filmtec Ultrahigh rejection membranes (Gets 1 TDS after RO before DI) Strong Anion DI cartridge, Ammonia Remover DI cartridge and mixed bed electronic grade resin DI cartridge.
Includes Inlet water pressure gauge, Sediment filter pressure drop gauge, ouput pressure gauge, membrane rejection meter, ouput purity monitor, automatic osmotic level controller and safety floats, automatic pass to drain system, automatic membrane flush system as well as automatic high flow booster pump start stop system.
Enjoy!
Where does the toaster go?
Where are the dual layered photon blasters?
Good god that sounds like it belongs in a Sci-Fi movie!!!
Lightspeed Chewy!
sellout007
New member
On a realistic note, Im going to have to sit down and really think about all of this and if I can truely afford it. I just bought my pump and some salt and that was almost $200. I dont know if I can actually afford another $250 purchase. But i hate the fact im using tap water. I have green and dark algae in my tank and im not digging it.
Its not horrible, but I know its gotta be from the tap water and its bugging me.
Its not horrible, but I know its gotta be from the tap water and its bugging me.
sellout007
New member
jdieck said:
So it does have dual layered photon blasters!!!
BTW is it a two toast toaster or a four toast toaster? I would think you would have to go all out and go for the four right??
Seriously though, thanks for the information. Now I just gotta figure out what the hell I want to do.
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