Ca Level

[bohlke]

Well I was assuming I needed to start dosing my tank with Ca now that I have some LPS corals in the tank. I bought a test kit to see where I am at. I tested it twice and it said that I was at least a 600 ppm?? Is that too high? I recently scraped some coraline (more of an avalanche) of the back of the tank is it possible that it added the Ca to the tank? What should I do (if anything) to get the Ca levels down?

 

[Serioussnaps]

Yes that is too high...dont panic....if you fix over the next week or 2 you will be just fine.

First, is the test kit right? I would check on another test kit if I were you. Scraping coralline from the back didnt add CA.

Your problem is you use:::::????>>> OCEANIC SALT!!!!!!! I will bet you do anyways...if not your test kit is likely off.

What do you add to add CA....do you use something like turbo CA?

answer these questions and i or someone will come along and tell you what the deal is

 

[bertoni]

You'll also need to measure and dose alkalinity. This article might help:

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/feb2003/chem.htm

For a 65g tank, a 2-part product like B-Ionic, Kent Tech CB, or C-Balance is an easy way to get started.

An alkalinity test result would be needed to help much more. In general, high calcium can be ignored and allowed to drop on its own.

 

[bohlke]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8410319#post8410319 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Serioussnaps
Yes that is too high...dont panic....if you fix over the next week or 2 you will be just fine.

First, is the test kit right? I would check on another test kit if I were you. Scraping coralline from the back didnt add CA.

Your problem is you use:::::????>>> OCEANIC SALT!!!!!!! I will bet you do anyways...if not your test kit is likely off.

What do you add to add CA....do you use something like turbo CA?

answer these questions and i or someone will come along and tell you what the deal is

The kit is from aquarium pharma, not sure how accurate it is. I use instant ocean salt. I have not added any buffers etc to the tank, I figured it would be best to test the water first. I bought Aragamilk thinking I would be low, its unopened

I did test my RO water, it came back at roughly 200ppm. Not sure why or if that test means anything.

 

[bohlke]

Here is the most recent water test I did before the Ca test:


Salinity 1.023
Nitrate 0
Nitrite 0
Alk 300 ppm
Ph 8.1
Temp 77F

 

[jdieck]

Bohlke:

If you have not added any supplements for Calcium and Alkalinity either your testing is off (which will be very unusual tha both read high) or your RO filter is damaged and your fresh water comes loaded with minerals (Calcium and Alk) which add up to the total when mixed with the IO.

How old is the RO? What is the Alkalinity of your tap water (inlet to the RO) and your RO water (Output from the RO)? The difference can tell us if the RO membrane is damaged as it should remove a minimum of 90% of what comes in.

 

[bertoni]

The usual upper limit for recommended alkalinity levels is 200 ppm, so indeed both measurement are high. I'm not sure it's possible for tapwater to throw off both levels that much, not easily, anyway, since calcium carbonate isn't very soluble in freshwater. I don't know about ionic pairing, etc, in freshwater that would prevent precipitation, though.

I'd suggest buying some new test kits, and trying them. If both test kits agree, you can use them all up over time. Those test kits take years to expire, most likely. The ones I have do. I have used Salifert and SeaTest-FasTest kits with good results, although the Salifert is a lot easier to use, in my experience.

 

[bohlke]

Ok here you go, this is using a quick strip test not sure how accurate they are:


Tap Water

Nitrate 20ppm
Nitrite 0
Alk 300 ppm
Ph 7.4

RO/DI Filter Water

Nitrate 0
Nitrite 0
Alk 180 ppm
Ph 7.4

The RO/DI filter is about 8 months old. I have a filter on the water main in the house as well that does a good job of getting the big stuff.

 

[bohlke]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8410559#post8410559 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by bertoni
The usual upper limit for recommended alkalinity levels is 200 ppm, so indeed both measurement are high. I'm not sure it's possible for tapwater to throw off both levels that much, not easily, anyway, since calcium carbonate isn't very soluble in freshwater. I don't know about ionic pairing, etc, in freshwater that would prevent precipitation, though.

I'd suggest buying some new test kits, and trying them. If both test kits agree, you can use them all up over time. Those test kits take years to expire, most likely. The ones I have do. I have used Salifert and SeaTest-FasTest kits with good results, although the Salifert is a lot easier to use, in my experience.

Thats funny the box says that 300ppm is "ideal" , ignorance is bliss

 

[bertoni]

Hmm, they might be using different units, I guess. Do they describe what exactly the ppm is? I thought ppm was always CaCO3 equivalents. I'm always forgetting all of the units involved.

 

[bohlke]

It says the units are (KH) ppm , also the range is 180-300ppm in the ideal catagory

 

[jdieck]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8410573#post8410573 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by bohlke
Ok here you go, this is using a quick strip test not sure how accurate they are:


Tap Water

Nitrate 20ppm
Nitrite 0
Alk 300 ppm
Ph 7.4

RO/DI Filter Water

Nitrate 0
Nitrite 0
Alk 180 ppm
Ph 7.4

The RO/DI filter is about 8 months old. I have a filter on the water main in the house as well that does a good job of getting the big stuff.

I am afraid your RO membrane is not working as you have only 40% rejection (rejects 120 ppm out of 300) when you shoul dhave a minimum of 90% and most common 95 to 97%

Check the cartridge inside the membrane housing for damaged or bypased packings if they are OK the membrane cartridge needs replacement. Eight months is a relatively short life span for a TFC membrane which usually lasts around 3 to 5 years. This premature failure is usually caused by chlorine which should be removed before the membrane by the carbon filter but if the carbon filter is not replaced on time chlorine passes to the membrane and damages it very quickly.

 

[bohlke]

The test kit is the Jungle Quick Dip, I have been skeptical about its accuracy. I will pick up a different brad of test kits tomorrow. If it comes back as high what do I do to get it down?

 

[jdieck]

Nothing, wait it out to get consummed but if real you need to solve the issue of the purification of the tap water so you stop adding the hardness of it to the newly mixed water used in your water changes

 

[bohlke]

New filters are on order first thing tomorrow, Ill see what I can do to find a new test kit local.

 

[jdieck]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8410779#post8410779 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by bohlke
New filters are on order first thing tomorrow, Ill see what I can do to find a new test kit local.

What kind of system do you have? Is it RO or RO/DI?
Has it been a long time since you replaced Carbon and Sediment filters? Replacing them may not help much as it seems you also have to replace the membrane. If you do I would recommend a Dow, Filmtec 75 gpd capacity with rejection of 98%. The larger one of 100 gpd is specified for a rejection of only 90%.

 

[bohlke]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8410805#post8410805 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jdieck
What kind of system do you have? Is it RO or RO/DI?
Has it been a long time since you replaced Carbon and Sediment filters? Replacing them may not help much as it seems you also have to replace the membrane. If you do I would recommend a Dow, Filmtec 75 gpd capacity with rejection of 98%. The larger one of 100 gpd is specified for a rejection of only 90%.

I got it from The Filter Guys, I will talk with them about it.

 

[bohlke]

Its an RO/DI filter and the whole system is about 8 months old. I tested the tap water and its at about 340ppm. I am assuming that topoff is what is elevating my tank parameters?

 

[Thefilterguys]

OK first of all you need some good test kits, strips are the worst. You need to get some Saliferts kits. Your alk reading is not in correct terms unless you are saying 3.00 meq/L which would be a reading of 8.4 dKH. I would not rely on any of your readings until you get good test kits. The only thing on your RO/DI that may be exhausted is your DI resin at this time.

You are not going to get correct readings on DI water with a test kit.

Jim

 

[Thefilterguys]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8410674#post8410674 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jdieck
I am afraid your RO membrane is not working as you have only 40% rejection (rejects 120 ppm out of 300) when you shoul dhave a minimum of 90% and most common 95 to 97%

Check the cartridge inside the membrane housing for damaged or bypased packings if they are OK the membrane cartridge needs replacement. Eight months is a relatively short life span for a TFC membrane which usually lasts around 3 to 5 years. This premature failure is usually caused by chlorine which should be removed before the membrane by the carbon filter but if the carbon filter is not replaced on time chlorine passes to the membrane and damages it very quickly.

jd his test results are not reliable without good test kits. I doubt he has a problem with his RO/DI system.

Jim