CADlights 39g Pro build thread

With the light 30" above the tank the view is great, but that glass top detracted.
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Had to try a bird net top.
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Really like this! Came out much better than expected.
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In person it's hardly there and you have a clear view from above.
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Nice scape!

Looks like Marco Rocks (Key Largo).
 
Would be nice if Eddie started making a screen type top that fits seamlessly into the CAD. Glass top is nice but keeps in the heat and is a pain to keep clean. Not too long ago I lost one of my onyx perculas and thought he was on the florr dried up somewhere. Surprised to find it did jump out of the main tank and into the middle fuge chamber on my CAD 12G. I have the egg crate top now,but it is fugly. A screen top out of nylon fishing line or something would be a nice complement.
 
What have you guys done about the overflow? The falling water sound is driving me nuts!

Alex,
I've read where people put a filter pad in the over flow or used the platic cover to a cd case and angled it so the water would spread out and not make as much noise. I will see if I can find the thread for you.


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Selling my Vortech MP40 with ecoSmart controller

Selling my Vortech MP40 with ecoSmart controller

Decided that I don't need the extra flow of the MP40 so I'm selling it. Thought I would offer it up here before posting it on my local forum.

The dry side is about 9 months old, the wet side is about 7 months old. I messed up my original wet side cleaning it so had to replace it in January. I added the EcoSmart controller in March (I think).

Everything works great and I'll email/PM pictures if you want them - didn't want to take up much space here for selling this.

I'm asking $275 - free shipping.

PM me if you are interested.

Thanks and now back to your regularly scheduled thread.
 
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Re: Overflow noise.

I don't have anything blocking my overflow; and I cannot hear it. I think a lot has to do with how low your durso drain is (and hence your water level). I brought my durso up a bit, and it worked out well.
The thing to make sure is is that your durso is still low enough to have a lower level of water in the bulkhead vs the main tank. I accidentally didn't have enough of a delta at first and the scum will collect on the water's surface.
 
so, i was out of town this weekend and came back to see my halide not on when it's supposed to be. looks like the fuse in the ballast blew. does anyone know what kind of fuse to replace it with? I'm not familiar with this. it says on it 5A and 250V. i bought from Home Depot a fuse that seems to suggest it will handle 5A at 250V (?) -- it says it's a time delay fuse. is that what i want?
 
Going to start-up my build of my 39G Pro again next week. I ordered it a couple of months back, did some mods to the cabinet, purchased a bunch of toys for the tank including a Vortech MP 40 and MP 10. I just ordered a Two Little Fishies Phosban reactor for the new setup. I'm hoping this will allow me to keep some SPS. I've had a chalice and a bird's nests bleach on me recently even though my tank parameters were good. I hadn't tested for phosphate though, and suspect that's the culprit. About three months ago I had another bird's nest bleach on me. In both instances it occurred about 2 weeks after placing the coral in the tank. I feed my dendrophylia almost daily with a variety of frozen foods, so I'm guessing phosphate from the food was the SPS killer.
 
Going to start-up my build of my 39G Pro again next week. I ordered it a couple of months back, did some mods to the cabinet, purchased a bunch of toys for the tank including a Vortech MP 40 and MP 10. I just ordered a Two Little Fishies Phosban reactor for the new setup. I'm hoping this will allow me to keep some SPS. I've had a chalice and a bird's nests bleach on me recently even though my tank parameters were good. I hadn't tested for phosphate though, and suspect that's the culprit. About three months ago I had another bird's nest bleach on me. In both instances it occurred about 2 weeks after placing the coral in the tank. I feed my dendrophylia almost daily with a variety of frozen foods, so I'm guessing phosphate from the food was the SPS killer.


Sounds great! The MP40 will give you a huge broad flow! You'll have to run it tuned down quite a bit though, but the wider flow area will be awsome for sps.

Your bleaching issues can be from many different things. Specific gravity fluctuations, flow, light cycle, temp fluctuations etc. IME, Phosphate problems have only occured on me when I have actually depleted the phosphate to undetectable levels. I never had an issue with bleaching until I aggressively used a GFO based media. I currently use a bacteria only system and it devours phosphate. Fortunately I have enough fish to keep PO4 levels sufficient.
 
Thanks, RT. The MP 40 is nice. I plan to keep it turned down. I got the MP 10 for the dead spot on the other side, just like your setup.

RT, are you still using the Zeovit method? I figured I'd start with the phosban reactor, and eventually graduate to carbon dosing. Two Little Fishies is about to release a nano sized kalk reactor, so I may give that a whirl for phosphate control along with the phosban reactor.
 
Thanks, RT. The MP 40 is nice. I plan to keep it turned down. I got the MP 10 for the dead spot on the other side, just like your setup.

RT, are you still using the Zeovit method? I figured I'd start with the phosban reactor, and eventually graduate to carbon dosing. Two Little Fishies is about to release a nano sized kalk reactor, so I may give that a whirl for phosphate control along with the phosban reactor.

Yep!

Still using Zeo with Really good "not great" results. I say really good because nutrients are easily kept down and maintenance is a snap. However, I only mention not great because the growth that people claim with the system is not happening as well as I expected. I highly recommend the system as a whole, but I was hoping for more growth out the gate. I have increadible growth in some corals but not others.

I guess I'm way too picky. Overall it is a wonderfull system and I think my expectations are just too much at this point.

I have no camera as of now but should be getting a new nikon for up coming B day. I'll post pics as soon as I get it figured out. My tank looks pretty good but I must mention for anyone putting monti caps into such a small tank, PUT them towards the BACK. These suckers grow so fast that I have to constantly cut them back. They block out light and they look like !@#t for a few weeks until the edges grow back (not fun).

Regarding your reactor;

Good idea! I had great results using chemipure elite in my 2 little fishes reactor. I would take the entire bag and open it, cut a tiny slit in the bottom, and feed the tube through it and zip tie both ends-worked great. If you decide to carbon dose then you may want to research supplementing an additional bac source like prodibio or zeo bac. Though I've never experienced it myself, I've read that carbon dosing can result in a monoculture of bacteria developing in the tank unless a bac mixture is added as well. I guess what sometimes happens with carbon dosing is one strain of bacteria becomes dominant (monoculture), outcompeting the other strains and the other strains die off leading to crash unless multiple strains are introduced regularly.

I'm sure you'll read up on it before you dive in.

Happy Reefing!:thumbsup:



Tivo
 
Thanks, RT. The MP 40 is nice. I plan to keep it turned down. I got the MP 10 for the dead spot on the other side, just like your setup.

RT, are you still using the Zeovit method? I figured I'd start with the phosban reactor, and eventually graduate to carbon dosing. Two Little Fishies is about to release a nano sized kalk reactor, so I may give that a whirl for phosphate control along with the phosban reactor.

Forgot to mention that if you use kalk, be sure to always run gfo (i prefer chemipure elite=both gfo and resin) and have good skimming because the kalk will pecipitate PO4 out of solution and will accumulate in the sand bed (rocks too). Many people that have been dosing kalk for extended periods of time and notice their PO4 getting high, will start aggresively using GFO with limited success. Thats because the kalk had already loaded up the sand bed and the bed continuously leaches it out.

This has been my experience with both my old 125 gal and 80 gal systems.

Tivo
 
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