CADlights 39g Pro build thread

Does anyone know the size loc-line CAD uses for the 39 pro? Im at work and cant check, but want to order the check valves loc-line makes.

PS: Mark, glad to see your tank is now wet! (I have to check this thread out more often to keep up lol)
 
Does anyone know the size loc-line CAD uses for the 39 pro? Im at work and cant check, but want to order the check valves loc-line makes.

PS: Mark, glad to see your tank is now wet! (I have to check this thread out more often to keep up lol)

Thanks, I have the cycle going but am really debating if I want to put the sump in the basement. Though with the ~5/8 inch return, I really am not sure what type of pump I would need. I have an old mag9.5 but figuring that would only push maybe 300-400 per hour in the sump.. I may just live with that because it doesnt seem like the pump on the Cad setup pushes the full potential of the tank either.

As for the Loc-line, I dont see any measurements on the exposed portion of whats in the tank. How do they measure those. Outside diameter of the threads or the actual tubing?
 
Yeah the 9.5 may be enough. Might as well give it a shot, and if it doesnt push enough you could always get a larger pump. I do wish my pump pushed more. Its rated for what, 650gph? Not sure exactly what it would be at the head it is at. I just got the hydor flo things for my return and I wish they had more movement/flow.

Not sure how they measure the loc-lines. The check valves I saw were 1/2", but Im sure they had a couple other sizes.
 
Here is my set up,
39G Cadlight with Stand
Aqueon Proflex Model 1 Sump
Bubble Magus NAC3+
Mag 5 return pump
2x MP10W Pumps
1x ECOTECH Battery backup
Arctica Chiller
2x AI SOL Super Blues LED Lighting 24" rail
APEX Lite Controller with 2x EB8, PM2
Elite Aquatics ATO Reserve Tank 2.5G
Coralife 9W UV
40#s Live Premium Fiji LR from LiveAquaria
20#'s Caribsea Arag-Alive Special Grade Reef Sand, along w/ 20#s dead

photo-17.jpg



photo-18.jpg



photo-6.jpg



photo-3.jpg


photo-29.jpg



photo-30.jpg
 
Nice set up! Clever use of the vanity cabinet. The DC strips look like they would fit side by side directly under the cabinet and that would give you better concealability. You could use some HD cord flashing to better hide the cords if you wanted.

Not sure of the skimmer though being in the return chamber. You may find it will skim out pods etc. from the fuge area that you want in the main system. Can you switch the skimmer to the chamber where the raw water is entering? Can't tell from the pic but it looks tight.

You've got some $$ invested! Great Job!
 
Nice set up! Clever use of the vanity cabinet. The DC strips look like they would fit side by side directly under the cabinet and that would give you better concealability. You could use some HD cord flashing to better hide the cords if you wanted.

Not sure of the skimmer though being in the return chamber. You may find it will skim out pods etc. from the fuge area that you want in the main system. Can you switch the skimmer to the chamber where the raw water is entering? Can't tell from the pic but it looks tight.

You've got some $$ invested! Great Job!


Thanks for the kind words, Ya only place I can put the skimmer is in that spot, it's going to eat some pods, but all well....

Still working on the wiring down below, might have a box made, just busy on the job side for now,


Her are some pics of the doors,
photo-21.jpg


photo-22.jpg
 
Last edited:
For future reference the 1/2" didnt fit, so it looks like it must be 1/4".

HMM? I bought 1/2 inch nozzles and mine fit. Are you refering to the threaded portion into the overflow or the portions that snap on.

If it's the snap on then those suckers need some muscle to get them on, but they'll go on.
I use my work bench in the garage and have to put alot of my 230lbs of body weight on them to get em' in-LOL.

If it's the threaded portion thats the issue then eddie may have sent you something funky.

They are supposed to be 1/2 inch.
 
Thanks for the kind words, Ya only place I can put the skimmer is in that spot, it's going to eat some pods, but all well....

Still working on the wiring down below, might have a box made, just busy on the job side for now,


Her are some pics of the doors,
photo-21.jpg


photo-22.jpg

Looks very clean!

I see many people putting that high dollar equipment inside their stand cabinets! :debi: You'll be happy you opted for the remote setup!

Nice!

HAppy Reefing

Tivo
 
For future reference the 1/2" didnt fit, so it looks like it must be 1/4".

Sorry Ryan, don't listen to me -:hmm6: I read your post and I was in lala land. You seem to have a different issue than My small brain was refering to.

Are you trying to thread a check valve into the overflow upper bulk head where the loclines attach, then snap on the loclines after that?

EDIT: I see the locline 1/2 in fittings on line and I looks to me that they should snap on to the existing 1/2 in line. They will take alot of force to snap them in (trust me).

Maybe thats why your thinking they dont fit and you need 1/4 inch??

If the ball portion "cups" into the socket of the check valve fitting just a bit then it should be the right size. You then would just need to press that sucker down hard on a fixed surface to snap it in. At first they dont seem they would fit. I had the same impression when I first modded locline. I bought flow accelerators and tried to snap the locline on and extend them but thought they didn't fit. I got PO'd at the fact that they almost fit but not quite and finally smacked the sucker then Walla! Popped right in!
 
Last edited:
tivo-Yeah I know how to fit the locline on. The 1/2" is way too loose so its gotta be the 1/4". They will be coming in the mail tomorrow so I can fit them on.
 
And the 1/4" is tiny.... Ill have to call Eddie and check. Maybe they did'nt use "loc-line" so its a wierd size, possibly metric?

That was my exact problem when I wanted to hard plumb my drain. The PVC tubing supplied is metric while we use Inches. My only option was to either pay some unreasonable amount and purchase it from another country, make my own by milling to resize the pvc tube, or just use a rubber coupler. I opted for the rubber coupler and so far has worked well.
 
wow! Cadlights really needs to step it up and be consistant with their parts list and QC them.

This happens way too frequently. I was one of the fortunate ones but c'mon!

They should list more detailed specs on all the plumbing then stay consistant.

This is a nice list but pretty vague in the plumbing/specs dept:

Features

* TANK DIMENSIONS: (L)24" x (W)20" x (H)20".
*Cadlights Pro 12G 4-chamber refugium sump (does not include refugium substrate).
*650GPH utility pump
*Cell-cast acrylic reef ready overflow box with Modified Durso drain and Loc-Line plumbing kit.
*Black adhesive Vinyl background
* Tank mounts and ceiling mounting kit included.
* PC light strip for refugium.
* Signature Polished and mitred edges with Extra thick 8mm thick glass.
* Seamless curved front panel.

*70G Bubble-Magus NAC-3+.

*70G evaporative cooling unit. (check out our forum for the benefits of evaporative cooling).

* 3-stage HQI, LED-HO moonlights, 2X24W Actinic T5HO lights, CADlights Prism 150W 14K HQI bulb.


Extra Optional features:

*2 stage 120W LED Hi-Power pendant fixture with 2 manual switches and 2 separate wires for complete manual control and automatic timer set up (Upgrade available below).
* separate circuits and switches for complete automatic and manual control for each T5 bulb, LED-HO system and Halides. Easily compatible with all kinds of timers.

*Furniture quality Solid wood Dark Cherry and Black Formica cabinets.

*Stainless steel Lamptrees.
 
Need help with my skimmer.

Need help with my skimmer.

So Ive had my tank up and cycling for a month now, and the tank is not quite cycled yet. Perhaps another 2 weeks or so.

For the first 4 weeks I had my bubble magus NAC3 running but the water level was only at 6 inches. The pump was pushing the water up no problem just no skimmate. I figured that was because the sump level was not at the recommended 8-10 inch. The BM does put out a TON of micro bubbles though which I cant believe is normal. Also the adjustable pipe always needs to be right at 5, if I drop it lower to 4 or more the water (not foam) raises up and will fill the overflow within a minute.

5 Days ago I installed my ATO and have the water level right at around 9 inches. Still no foam but still have tons micro bubbles. I tried restricting the air intake for maybe 30 seconds and the pump purged all the air bubbles from the skimmer. After opening up the air line, I got foam within a minute, but this foam went away after maybe 10 minutes. My first though was perhaps I need to permanently restrict the airflow, but I havent heard anyone else do this. Also it seems from reading everyone tunes theirs right to 4 but there is no way mine will allow that without pumping my whole tank into the collection cup..

Any advise?
 
doesn't sound normal!

are you running the mesh impeller?

I thought the new nac3's came with both mesh and Needle wheel.

If you have both, change to the needle wheel. The mesh will pull much more air than the needle wheel. I ran the NAC3 for a few months a couple years ago at 8 inches with the hybrid mesh wheel and it didn't perform well for me (could'nt get dry enough foam). I did not have a needle wheel option though and that would have helped I'm sure.

If you have the NW impeller then swap it out and set your bubbles to break just below where the cup attaches to the neck and wait a day. Then report back.

Tivo
 
edit!

Sorry but pretty sure you "are" running the NW. I remember now that my 3 had only the NW and the 6 was with both mesh and NW.

apologies! You question may better be answered on the bubble magus thread since it seems like somethings off. After that long of a break in you should be able to close the wedge pipe lower than 4 and micros should have settled down by now.
 
Hey gang,

Just checking in - Been slammed with business and related travel the past few months. Tanks are doing well. Leaving tomorrow for the annual MACNA pilgrimage (have to keep tabs on the latest LED enhancements.)

MARLANDO - Nice setup, our hardware selection is very similar (2 AIs, , Vortech, Apex...) The one surprise is the chiller. It's seems unimaginable you would need it with the AIs. I've changed return pumps a few times before deciding on the HydroBlaster 7000. Great efficiency and virtually no heat. Perhaps you keep your home warmer?

Hope everyone and their respective tanks are doing well. Let me know if anyone is heading for Des Moines - First rounds on me :)
 
Tom, Thanks !

Reason for the chiller, This tank is at my office, and on weekends most of the time we are not here, and not running AC, Chiller works great for these occasions !:)


Hey gang,

Just checking in - Been slammed with business and related travel the past few months. Tanks are doing well. Leaving tomorrow for the annual MACNA pilgrimage (have to keep tabs on the latest LED enhancements.)

MARLANDO - Nice setup, our hardware selection is very similar (2 AIs, , Vortech, Apex...) The one surprise is the chiller. It's seems unimaginable you would need it with the AIs. I've changed return pumps a few times before deciding on the HydroBlaster 7000. Great efficiency and virtually no heat. Perhaps you keep your home warmer?

Hope everyone and their respective tanks are doing well. Let me know if anyone is heading for Des Moines - First rounds on me :)
 
Aaah, makes perfect sense. If it weren't for requiring many tons of cooling for the data center located in our offices, I would do the same.

Looking forward to watching your tank grow out under AI's :)
 
Back
Top