CADlights 39g Pro build thread

[blureef1]

Thanks for documenting this build. I am looking at getting the 39g Pro as well.

How curved is the glass on the front of the tank? Is it as curved as say the Nano cubes or is it relatively flat. I generally don't like the way curved front distort the view of the tank, and would be interested in getting your feedback on this.

Anyone else with this tank care to comment on that?

Regards,

 

[ArtC]

A modest curve - I was never a fan of the bowfronts myself.

But it will look different with water in it

 

[ArtC]

No microbubbles

No microbubbles

I set up the sump with the skimmer running and the return pump going straight into the skimmer chamber so I could check for leaks, microbubbles, etc.

The new sump design looks to work. no microbubbles. I held a flashlight behind the sump for a real test.

Eddie at CADlights says:

the new sumps have a thinner baffle space and they extend all the way
down to 1/2" from the bottom. the baffles cross each other to force the
water to travel at a longer distance and at a direction that is opposite
of the bubbles. this ensure the best "bubble trapping" possible

In such a small sump you can't just rely on the bubbles rising (turnover of 140x/hour) so the filter pad and bioballs that the skimmer dumps out on are a first stage bubble filter.

 

[ArtC]

If you've put the cabinet, light, and sump together, then it's time to get serious.

A heads-up though. At least through Sept 2008, you're going to have to go to Home Depot before you finish the plumbing.
So I'll list what's missing. (I suggested to Eddie that we wouldn't mind if he added these things and raise the price $5)

PVC cement (yeah, you probably have it but you need it)
Plastic return hose clamps (6 for the brave, 12 for the cowardly)
One or two big hose clamps (or cable ties) for the drain hose.
And if like me , you tossed out a 2" length of PVC that you found in the packaging, go buy a piece of the thinnest-walled 1" PVC you can find (Lowe's had thinner than HD) to be the adapter between the Durso and the drain hose.

Pull the tank away from the wall so you can easily get at front and back. Take the sump out if you've already put it in the cabinet. (I'll change the cabinet assembly instructions to say 'leave the doors off until you have water in the tank.')

But don't be fastening anything permanently just yet. Wait til everything is fitted, then go back and glue.

First, your return flow assembly might look like it is preassembled, but it probably isn't glued. See if it pulls apart to look like

Put it back together, and temporary install it in the overflow, just hand tight.

Also install the Durso (the return pipe) just tightly enough to stand up straight

Now, start to put together the lockline bulkheads

Screw the lockline into the bulkhead. Push the washer onto the bulkhead. Push the bulkhead into the hole in the overflow.
VERY LOOSELY put the bulkhead screw on. Now insert the barb pointing down and spin the whole rest of the assembly until the barb is tight.
THEN handtighten the bulkehead nut. Looks like this (cardboard subs for overflow in picture.)

Do the same with the other bulkhead. You probably want the bulkhead over the Durso to point back at an angle to minimize hose kink.

Continued next message:

 

[ArtC]

plumbing, Part 2

plumbing, Part 2

It's not as complicated as it looks - some of the connections are just reflections

Now you see the problem - you have to get the return assembly connected to the lockline barbs with hose.
Note about how long the hose needs to be, pull the return assembly out.
Cut two pieces of hose a bit longer than you think you need and attach them to the return assembly with hose clamps.
Now put the return assembly back in the tank, line up the hoses with the barbs for real, and cut to the right length.
Now take the return assembly back out and glue that sucker together - both barbs and the bulkhead.
You don't want it blowing apart under pressure.

There are four places to glue on the return.
Glue the two top barb the bulkhead to the PVC, and the bottom barb into the bulkhead (connects to the pump.)
The bulkhead nut will fit over the bottom barb.

On the Durso, just glue the PVC adapter into the bottom of the bulkhead so you can attach the hose later.

After the glue is dry on the return asembly, install the Durso and return assembly or real.
That means:
-check that the glass is clean around the holes,
-the washers are on the inside of the tank,
-the nut isn't cross threaded
-and don't tighten until the tank cracks! Hand-tight.

Note: you don't have to glue the Durso to the bulkhead - it isn't under pressure.

Put the top ends of the return hoses on to the barbs and put hose clamps on them.
If the hoses are too short (or too long and they kink) then try again.
When the hoses are right, then tighten the lockline bulkhead and lockline nut (again, hand-tight only.)
And for good luck, make sure the locklines aren't pointed up.

Now go into the cabinet and attach the hoses to the sump.
The skimmer side of the sump goes on the left and the drain hose goes into the skimmer chamber.
The drain hose probably isn't going anywhere, but you might want to use a plastic clamp to keep it in the correct chamber.

The return hose goes to the return pump in the right-hand chamber.
Attach the return hose by NOT removing the nut on the return pump.
Push the hose onto the barb and then back the nut out to secure the hose.

Check all the connections and bulkheads.

 

[ArtC]

skimmer running

skimmer running

Here's a picture of the sump running.

The return pump is just pumping from right to left.
The skimmer outflow is directed over the divider onto the
filter pad & bioballs.
The filter pad breaks up most of the bubbles.
The bioballs are basically to support the filter pad.

The sump is the same width as the cabinet, but doesn't use
all the cabinet depth or height. It would be possible to make
both the sump and skimmer a bit bigger.

 

[moonman]

Looks great. I purchased the Pro before they decided to sell as a whole package with stand/sump/lights. I'm happy with it, and Ken's a great guy over at Reeflections.

Looking forward to seeing your progress.

 

[mnml]

Looking good, Art.

If it's not too much to ask, can you post a pic of your ballast?

I'm thinking of getting rid of my 25G ballast and upgrade to the 39G ballast. I heard CAD improved the efficiency of their ballasts with the signature series.

T.I.A.

 

[ProdigalPoster]

This looks awesome!

I'm looking at the OceanReeFlections site and I can't seem to find a package that includes a sump.

Did you order it separately?

 

[Cfused]

You're probably looking at the signature series. The professional series comes with the external sump.

Question: What do you plan on doing for flow?

btw I can't wait to see more pictures - this'll be great for me when I purchase it!

 

[ArtC]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13409118#post13409118 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by thin crust
Looking good, Art.

If it's not too much to ask, can you post a pic of your ballast?

I'm thinking of getting rid of my 25G ballast and upgrade to the 39G ballast. I heard CAD improved the efficiency of their ballasts with the signature series.

T.I.A.

Ballasts(s) are built into the fixture - the light in the first post with pictures is all that there is.

 

[ArtC]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13410105#post13410105 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Cfused


Question: What do you plan on doing for flow?

The return pump is 700 gph, so provides maybe 10x turnover per hour (after head loss, guessing, graph not included with pump, but suggests an experiment!).

Used to run a 220, so I have a pair of older Tunze Streams 6101(probably too big for a nano), a pair of Maxijet 1200s with aftermarket flow adapaters (forget whose), and a Sea Swirl (also too big.) Also have eductors around someplace, but they only really work with a high speed/pressure return and I'd have to find some lockline adapters.

So I'll try those, and if I'm not happy I'll sell the Streams and Sea Swirl and maybe clear enough to get a pair of the new smaller Tunzes. I like the Vortecs, and guys from my alma mater make them, but until I hear the reliability issues have been worked out...

For control, I have an AC III from the old tank.

Plumbing is all done, so I'll be able to check this out as soon as I get the tank filled.

 

[mnml]

thanks for feedback ! can't wait to see more pics!

 

[ArtC]

Slightly updated cabinet assembly instructions.

Basically suggests leaving the doors off until the system is plumbed so they are not in the way.

 

[ArtC]

finishing touches

finishing touches

Ok, now that you have your tank plumbed you'd like to put water in it.
Well, a few things yet to do.

First, let's check out your bulkhead connections by filling the overflow.
It only takes two gallons, and this is a better time to find out if you have any leaks.

Now put the backing on. You know, the sebstklebefolie

Clean your finger and noseprints off the back of the tank.
One sheet goes on each side of the tank, leaving part of the overflow visible.

The sheets are cut big, so you can overlap the edges of the tank instead of trying to line up perfectly.
Now this isn't my best skill so you might want to look somewhere else for hints.
Peel the backing away slightly (a couple inches) from one of the short edges and apply to the top of the tank.
Don't peel the whole backing off at the beginning - peel it off as you attach the sheet.
Be smooth to avoid bubbles, but remember that an algae bloom will hide all the imperfections soon.
Bubbles can be worked out the the edge with patience.

Sheet can be lifted to correct errors - won't tear if you are careful. Trim off excess with razor blade.

Now for a sneaky CAD trick - Installing the refugium light.
Do it before you move the tank to the permanent location.
The light's transformer block doesn't fit out thru the vent hole -
you have to push the light IN through the vent hole.
So it would be difficult if you waited until the tank was full and against the wall.
Also notice that the switch is on the transformer, so plug that someplace you can reach it.

Now the cooling fan. I think I have the older model - there are rumors of a two-fan unit in the works. Anyway, it goes over the overflow and points down into it. CAD says that gives better cooling than fans in the sump.

Put the little metal clamps on the fan.

Hang the fan on the edge of the tank and tighten screws (only a little!)

 

[ArtC]

odds & ends

odds & ends

If you want to use the glass lid, you use the acrylic hangers.
The photo is oriented for a hanger on the left side of the tank.
My thumb is where the tank edge goes,
and the horizontal surface on the right supports the lid.

Position the four hangers near the front of the tank, with a pair in front of the lid hinge and a pair behind.
The top of the overflow will support the back of the lid.

The light feet fit over the hangers, so you don't need to choose between light and lid.
You probably want the light somewhat forward (e.g., not shining into the overflow)
but not so far forward that you can't open the lid.
There will still be spaces for your flying fish to get some exercise,
so if you have real jumpers you might want to take additional measures.

UV light. First, do you want to install it?
They aren't much use against a lot of pests, and are better for interconnected systems than single tanks.
It will also prevent the overflow from acting as a secondary refugium.
The included light is the only non-shielded UV I've seen in the hobby.
UV is tough on hose, paint, eyes and makes an annoying night light shining through the back of the tank.
If you want to use it, CAD recommends dropping it to the bottom of the overflow.
The advantage of this is you can put it in and pull it out whenever.

See all the bubbles in the the selbstklebefolie
Now pull the skimmer and return pump powercords through the holes in the cabinet.

Check your bulkheads for leaks again.

Put the system where you want it. Leave at least a little room for ventilation from the cabinet and to work future powercords out (heater?) Check for level again.

Start your RO/DI.

Parts left over when I finished: the cable rig for hanging the light from the ceiling,
and a pair of black plastic clips that were probably provided for mounting the UV.

I fired up the RO to fill the tank so I can figure out what powerheads to use. (Previous post.)

I think there is a CAD-provided auto-topoff on backorder somewhere - I'll post that when I get it.

I ordered Bali Alor LR from Premium Aquatics to go with a couple local pieces.
Pick up the rock at the airport to minimize die-off and cure in tank.

 

[lemec]

Have you ever considered switching out the bioballs with live rock rubble in the sump?

 

[ProdigalPoster]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13410105#post13410105 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Cfused
You're probably looking at the signature series. The professional series comes with the external sump.

Really? The price is only ~800 for a tank, light, AND a sump? WOW.

 

[jsnicholas]

Stand

Stand

Did you use the wood bar the goes between the doors when they close? I have the stand and have built it, but I can not see how the sump will fit in with that there. I do not yet have the tank and sump (location unknown for now) so I can not try it.

 

[ArtC]

Re: Stand

Re: Stand

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13424112#post13424112 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jsnicholas
Did you use the wood bar the goes between the doors when they close? I have the stand and have built it, but I can not see how the sump will fit in with that there. I do not yet have the tank and sump (location unknown for now) so I can not try it.

You sure you have the Pro system? The wood bar is only 2" high and goes at the top.

The Signature has no sump and has a full-height center board in the cabinet for support of shelves (hint, if you have shelves then you have the Signature cabinet!)

Take a look at the cherry Signature cabinet above and also the attachment with the Pro assembly instructions.