<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15725841#post15725841 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by CalmSeasQuest
I fired up the lights, I noted only 1 (of three) fans lit - Are the other two fans on a thermostat?
I was disappointed that the single running fan was so loud (this tank is destined for a living room) It might disappear once I get it plumbed and water running, but it still seemed rather loud. Thoughts on options for a quieter setup that might provide more light output?
ATO - The tank will be too far from my RO source with no way to plumb it. I'd like to figure out how to hide a few gallons of top off water with kalk and the sump appears to take up all the available space in the stand.
I'm taking pics to document the build (once something good happens.) I should have the remaining pieces along with an Apex to play with in about a week.
Thanks for all the help.
-Tom
I have tried both my mags (3 & 7) on this along with a eheim 1262 and the Rio 20F has the lowest heat transfer and the lowest wattage. It is however 1200+ gph so you would need to get a small gate or ball valve and plumb it off the pump to tune (turn) it down a bit so you don't exceed 1000gph. I have not tried the oceanrunner but that may be an option. The rio is noisy if you let it touch the sides of the sump because of the vibration so you will need to put the suction cups on the bottom and place it in the chamber away from the walls and it should be silent.<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15736845#post15736845 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by timdanger
as far as stock pump replacements (for heat/noise reduction), what does everyone recommend/not recommend? i've read threads (maybe this one?) where people switched it out for a oceanrunner 2500, mag 3 (i think 3?), etc. but I wasn't sure if they used that because it was convenient (or they had it lying around) or because it was a good replacement pump for the heat/noise issue.
again, i'm planning on "replacing" the stock return pump for a vortech mp10 or mp20, plus whatever a reasonable return pump ends up being.
I don't run the UV out of concern that the water doesn't get exposed to it long enough to make a difference because it doesn't flow through the UV like bigger, more expensive UV equipment does.<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15723361#post15723361 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by reeftivo
I estimate with my two vortechs that I probably have at least 30 X's turnover in mine (1/3 power each)and you would never know it by looking at it because of the broad flow that the MP's provide. I don't run the UV because I'm leary of raw UV light on the components in the overflow and it would kill any pods returning to the sump.
I will be checking out an alternate fan for the light fixture and see if I can get one that works. In the mean time if everyone is having problems with the big square cooling fan that you place over the overflow (or over the sump) then you can do a simple mod that will cut the noise in half. Take the old fan out of the housing (very simple) and take it to Radio Shack or best buy and match it up with a 4" computer fan that they sell. The computer fans are half the decibles Dba and will fit in the housing. The only mod you would have to do is to drill 2 of the 4 holes at the corners of the new fan. You will need to drill them a bit larger to accomodate the 2 pins that come through on the housing. After that, it will slip right in. If you have an old phone charger laying around, just cut the cord on it and splice in the transformer block and plug it in-WALLA! Works great!<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15737013#post15737013 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ItsMee
Since that picture of the drain going to the skimmer compartment, I have changed it to the compartment in front. I did notice that the foam is now a lot thicker an the bubbles are at a constant level within the riser tube - when I had it in the compartment as in the above picture, the skimmer was harder to tune but still worked pretty well. My reasoning for putting it in the skimmer compartment was I thought that having it in the same compartment would mean that anything that goes through the drain would have more of a chance to make it to the skimmer pump.
I am one of the ones complaining of a hot burning smell from the singular cooling fan. This happened before I even started using my MH lights, and even if it hadn't I keep my lights as far up to the front of the tank as possible - so it was not from the heat of the lights. Thanks for researching a better fan, can't wait for your post!
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15737188#post15737188 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ItsMee
Rio 20F?? I did a google search with no results for "rio 20f".
Hi timdanger,<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15737157#post15737157 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by timdanger
I don't run the UV out of concern that the water doesn't get exposed to it long enough to make a difference because it doesn't flow through the UV like bigger, more expensive UV equipment does.
my algae may just be "cycle algae" -- it seems to have tapered off a fair amount. however, i am interested in what you're saying about flow. forgive my inexperience -- but, what's the thinking behind having 2 vortechs in a tank this size?
are you worried about dead spots created by LR formations? I am, though i'm not sure if that's a well-founded concern.
my tank has two LR pillars (as you can see in the pictures) -- there is kind of a "funnel" of (what i fear is) dead space between the two pillars, and i've noticed some dirty-looking build-up on top of the sand in that funnel area, as well as in spots around the pillars that may be shielded from flow.
i was thinking about the concept of maybe just putting a vortech on the back wall of the tank and letting it do its thing, based on the fact that the tank is a "cube," so there's hardly a "short side"/"long side" distinction like with a standard-sized tank. however, based on all this space, i was wondering if i might need something to eliminate extra dead spots.
thoughts?