CADlights 39g Pro build thread

[Gillundr]

Nice I like the tank colors and like your little frag tank haha cute and great idea might have to try it out! Even though I have more than enough with my frag tank but still would be a cool spot to put things that need to be alone or something.
For additives I put in a full gallon of Lime water and full cups of B-ionic everyday and every other day I have to add 2 full cups of B-ionic to keep my calcium above 420. Pretty bad huh. Been playing with adding Mag and Iodine. Adding 1ML of each daily just started yesterday so seeing if that will do. I have a Mag test kit and Mag is fine but want it to stay there. Iodine is used so fast I'm sure I will need to up it but starting slow and will see after a couple weeks. (watching for diatom blooms haha). Also have been playing with the idea of trying out prodibio. I have a few friends that are using it with great success along with a couple of vitachem things like Pohls.
Tivo can you PM me with instructions on how to clean that skimmer? It's been a while since I got it and it's kicking butt man. But I was thinking I should maybe start thinking about doing some cleaning on it soon? What do you think? I have been shooting hot water in the tube once a week. But should I take it out of the sump and give it a good cleaning? Is it possible to take the pump out? Not sure if I can fit my big hand in there lol may have to pay the wife.

 

[Gillundr]

calmsea, can you link that light your using in your sump for me? I looked around and was trying to find the one your using. Also can you use it in any fixture?

 

[CalmSeasQuest]

calmsea, can you link that light your using in your sump for me? I looked around and was trying to find the one your using. Also can you use it in any fixture?

http://www.nanotuners.com/product_info.php?cPath=74&products_id=623

The bulb is 21 watts and PAR38 in size - It screws into any standard light socket. The ballast is built into the bulb. It's available in 12k or 20K and 40, 60 or 80 degree optics.

The jury is still out as PAR readings (should be available soon.) I think it will work well for this application. So far it seems to be keeping a wide variety of frags happy. I have SPS in the center then progressively lower light corals out the toward the edges with a few Zoas at the perimeter for testing.

I put mine in the same Home Depot work light fixture I used for the now replaced 26 watt compact fluorescent.

I'm also hoping that maximising the bio load in this 60 sq inch area of the sump and running it on a reverse lighting schedule will help lessen the diurnal pH swings. Time will tell...

And WOW - that's a ton of daily evaporation and 2 part! - That can't all be going in a 39 Gal CadLights right?

 

[CalmSeasQuest]

Do turbo snails go far enough out of the water to go up and over, and if so then why do they never crawl outside of the sump/display? Maybe I am underestimating thier intelligence and/or instinct???

Yup, up and over is no problem. I often find snail tracks on the outside of the glass all the way at the bottom of the tank. I've also found missing snails on the carpet. Seems like Margaritas especially like to go on "dry runs."

 

[reeftivo]

Tanks looking great Tom.

Looks like your frag rack is getting good light from that bulb. Has your nem moved? Mine has stayed put for 5 months until yesterday when it decided to climb up for more light. It is now a problem because it is anchored under a section where I can't get at the foot to move him. I need to move him because he is now extending out against my acros. I moved my acros for the time being but need to figure out how to detach the nem and when I do I will be bringing him back to my LFS for credit. Too much risk for me!

My clown is going to be ****ed because he is very protective of the nem.

On another note, I've settled into the 13k giessemann with the pure actinics and like it very much.

Tivo

 

[reeftivo]

bump

 

[reeftivo]

WOW! Your livestock is amazingly beautiful. I can't wait till my tank looks like that. I have not bouht any corals yet becaue I know I am going to move to california (from texASS) in about 7-9 months. Does anyone know of a good hardy, yet brilliant coral that will more-than-likely survive transportation of 2 days with a heater and airstone in a bucket? I already have the transportation all planned out. I have not yet bought sand for the same reason. Its killing me to not have any corals! I took a couple weeks off from RC and this thread grew almost as fast as my macro algae since then! Very interesting note: I put a rather large turbo snail in all the compartments of my sump/fuge except for the skimmer compartment to clean brown and red algae (works great BTW) that is caused by my fuge light that comes on when the display lights go off. The snail that I put in the compartment that the skimmer and overflow drain into (where the filter sock is) managed to somehow find his way to my skimmer compartment. Although he didn't have a chance to get hurt in my skimmer pump and all is good, I have been racking my brain trying to figure out how he accomplished this because it is physically impossible for his shell to fit in the small space between compartments. Do turbo snails go far enough out of the water to go up and over, and if so then why do they never crawl outside of the sump/display? Maybe I am underestimating thier intelligence and/or instinct???

SPS,LPS or soft coral?

 

[CalmSeasQuest]

Tanks looking great Tom.

Looks like your frag rack is getting good light from that bulb. Has your nem moved? Mine has stayed put for 5 months until yesterday when it decided to climb up for more light. It is now a problem because it is anchored under a section where I can't get at the foot to move him. I need to move him because he is now extending out against my acros. I moved my acros for the time being but need to figure out how to detach the nem and when I do I will be bringing him back to my LFS for credit. Too much risk for me!

My clown is going to be ****ed because he is very protective of the nem.

On another note, I've settled into the 13k giessemann with the pure actinics and like it very much.

Tivo

The Sump/Frag LED is rocking, in fact - I had to raise it as some (including a couple SPS ) were bleaching. Amazing how much PAR they squeezed from 21 watts. I'm really surprised the heat is so minimal it really hasn't impacted temps at all. I do need to add the cabinet fan to try get more fresh with the hopes of getting a little pH bump.

My RBTA hasn't moved in inch <knock on wood> If it does, I'll have the same issues as the top shelf is covered in SPS, with more on the way. When mine began encroaching Acro territory, I repositioned my MP20 to "persuade" it to go elsewhere - Reef Crest worked pretty well My major concern is my AI LED lights shipped today - Should have them by weeks end. It will take some time to figure out comparable PAR so odds are I'll tick off a few things in the process (hopefully not the Nem.)

I agree with your choice of the 13K, the Phoenix by itself is fine - Add the T5s and it's waaay too blue for me.

 

[CalmSeasQuest]

My "Doh" Moment...

My "Doh" Moment...

I'm sure everyone else has already realized this, I'm just a slow study...

There are some times where I have to clean the front glass daily as the algae builds so quickly. At other times, it seems I can go up to a week before it gets that bad - I just realized the variable.

I've been moving my MP20 around and varying the pattern and velocity trying to eliminate a dead spot in the rear corner behind the rocks. When it's placed on the back wall facing the front glass, the algae grows VERY quickly - especially at higher flow settings. When on a side wall blowing across the width of the tank, very little algae accumulates - It makes perfect sense.

My only complaint about the Vortechs is I wish there was a way to position it in a corner.

 

[reeftivo]

Wow! I saw the link for that LED spot and it looks great. I need one bad!! Do you have an idea of the life span of the bulb? At that price I would hope to get at least a year out of it.

With my MP20 and 10 off the back wall, I get a light film of micro on the glass that is slightly noticeable to me in the late evening before lights out. My wife doesn't notice it but of course I do. I clean my glass every evening before bed and absolutely love this tank! I do have an issue with my wet side on the MP20. It has started tripping the internal circuit for some reason on all modes except for pulse mode. I e-mailed Eco-Tech and gave them the serial number so they can send me a new wet side assembly. Hopefully that will take care of it. If not they will have to send the dry side as well (thank goodnes for the warranty!).

I had been thinking of the corner application for the vortechs as well and it would be awsome if they could do it. I think what they would have to do is make an acrylic box that can actually hang inside the corner of the tank for the dry assembly. It wouldn't be too hard to make from acrylic. It may not look too good though (bulky), but who knows?

Re; the 13k giessemann-Love it! surprisingly less blue than the 14k but casts a really white/blue crisp light. It also brings out the fluorescence of the corals without the characteristic blue tank look. I'll post pics tomorrow.

I'm still waiting for the new sump from Eddie and can't wait to try out the NAC6 and the ReefOctopus NWB 110 in it. The air numbers on the NAC6 are 400lph running in clean water. The specs say it pulls 500lph. I'll have to see once it's in sump. The Octo is pulling just over 300lph which isn't bad at all. I'm expecting the NAC6 to be a bit too big for the pro system but wont know until it's running in sump for a while.

Lovin' my CADlights tank!!!

Tivo

 

[CalmSeasQuest]

Wow! I saw the link for that LED spot and it looks great. I need one bad!! Do you have an idea of the life span of the bulb? At that price I would hope to get at least a year out of it.

Tivo

The CREE LEDS are rated for 50,000 hours - At 10 Hrs a day, you're good for more than 13 years My only concern is corrosion from the salt mist in the cabinet.

I did a couple of simple mods last night that I think are going to work.

1) Ran skimmer air intake line outside of the cabinet - Just long enough to place the inlet behind the cabinet. It's MUCH quieter and doesn't appear to diminish air intake or effect skimmer performance. I'm hoping the cooler, dryer and potentially lower Co2 air will bump pH a bit.

2) - "I'll see your CD cover and raise you a baggie"
I've been trying to find a way to quiet my overflow. My Durso was cut way too short and I haven't had time to tear it apart to lengthen it. I had been using the CD cover trick, but it was less effective at the higher flow rates I'm using to keep circulation up through the sump frag tanks so....

I removed the CD cover and replaced it with a 1 gallon size zip-lock bag. I draped it immediately behind the teeth of the overflow and attached it with a couple of zip ties so it hangs down into the overflow. The result is the overflow is absolutely silent. The water runs down between the baggie and the wall of the overflow, it doesn't trap any waste in the water and automatically adjusts for changes in water flow.

I haven't trimmed the zip ties yet to make it easier to adjust (adjusting the tension changes the distance the baggie is from the overflow wall and the sound.) It's only been running for about 12 hours - but so far it's perfect. The only sounds that can be heard are the MH fan (when it's on) or the return pump - and then, only if the cabinet doors are open.

 

[timdanger]

Placement of my vortech is still vexing me a little bit. I'm running the mp10, based purely on the fact that I didn't want to shell out the extra $100 for the mp20 (and it's 400gph of extra flow) at this point.

Currently, the mp10 is attached to the side of the tank and running at 100% on reef crest. I have a bit of a dead spot in both of the back corners of my tank, but it's more obvious (a little bit of detritus accumulation) in the corner that is on the side on which the vortech is mounted. Additionally, for the first time since setting up the tank, I've noticed a thin layer of film at the top of my water, but only in the area directly above the vortech.

I thought about moving the Vortech to the back wall for aesthetic reasons, but I wonder if that would just make these issues worse. Anyone have luck with any certain positioning? Or is it just going to depend on your rock work?

 

[reeftivo]

show a FTS and we may have some suggestions. I put my MP20 at the side of the tank and it doesn't work for me due to my higher rock work unless I put it towards the front, which I dont care for. As you state, it will primarily depend on your aquascape. I have fantastic surface agitation on my tank with my return nozzles at the surface and the vortechs at each side. You could always run the MP10 off one side (back) on lagoon or reefcrest mode and put in a tunze or koralia stream pump at the other side (back) and aim it up slightly towards the surface. This should give you a significant roll in the tank with the MP10 providing the random currents.

 

[timdanger]

These are terrible pictures, but ok...

my latest FTS/FDS (full dog shot) - it's out of focus, but it shows my rock work a little better than the in-focus shot:

older "pre-algae cleaning" shot to show some more detail -- also out of focus:

 

[timdanger]

now, a few nicer pictures to soften the suffering you will no doubt feel looking at the last two photos (all are pre-vortech/algae scrubbing with a toothbrush):

 

[reeftivo]

Tank still looks good buddy. I'm liking the rock scape! gobi,clown and pseudo are nice. The red slime is from too litttle flow in that area.
Get a lawnmower blennie to knock down the GHA-they love that stuff. You may have to return him once it's all mowed down because they'll starve when it's gone. They are pretty easy to get out of the tank.

I would put the MP10 on the right about 4 inches down and blast it on either lagoon or reefcrest. It should circulate down and around to the left while pulling very well off the bottom. Then I think you have a K1 right? If so put it on the left side back wall close to the big piece and aim it upward slightly to start a powerfull roll towards the front center of the tank. The Vortech on reefcrest or lagoon should disturb the steady flow of the K1 and still give you a good alternating current. If that doesn't work to good put the vortech on long pulse mode. That should create a surge. It looks like the way you have the rock work situated, it's blocking the flow back upward to the MP10. I think running them off the back will work better for your setup.

 

[reeftivo]

I would put the MP10 on the right about 4 inches down and blast it on either lagoon or reefcrest.

Sorry, I forgot to state "off the back"

 

[reeftivo]

now, a few nicer pictures to soften the suffering you will no doubt feel looking at the last two photos (all are pre-vortech/algae scrubbing with a toothbrush):

Sorry I'm chiming in so much but I wouldn't use a tooth brush to scrub the rock unless you are pulling the pieces out of the tank to scrub, then rinse them. If you scrub them in the tank they will only release spores and spread the problem.

 

[timdanger]

Tank still looks good buddy. I'm liking the rock scape! gobi,clown and pseudo are nice.

that's a bluespot jawfish, ocellaris clown, and royal gramma.

The red slime is from too litttle flow in that area.

you are definitely right about that. it's since been taken care of, and I don't have any more cyano.

Get a lawnmower blennie to knock down the GHA-they love that stuff. You may have to return him once it's all mowed down because they'll starve when it's gone. They are pretty easy to get out of the tank.

I actually had a lawnmower blenny. He was our first fish in this tank. But, he never touched any of that GHA. The -only- thing he would eat was film algae off the tank walls (which is why there is so much algae on the glass in the second picture). And, he didn't eat that very well, either.

We lost him about 2 weeks ago - the poor guy just wouldn't eat anything (i tried absolutely everything), and he ended up starving to death. We had him for probably about 3 months. wife was pretty heartbroken over it (it was our second lawnmower blenny that she picked out), so we're going to pass on lawnmower blennies for a while.

We did consider getting a very small yellow tang........ (this is where we hide from the tang police).

I would put the MP10 on the right about 4 inches down and blast it on either lagoon or reefcrest. It should circulate down and around to the left while pulling very well off the bottom. Then I think you have a K1 right? If so put it on the left side back wall close to the big piece and aim it upward slightly to start a powerfull roll towards the front center of the tank. The Vortech on reefcrest or lagoon should disturb the steady flow of the K1 and still give you a good alternating current. If that doesn't work to good put the vortech on long pulse mode. That should create a surge. It looks like the way you have the rock work situated, it's blocking the flow back upward to the MP10. I think running them off the back will work better for your setup.

I definitely wouldn't mind trying it off the back wall. We'll see what happens.

I don't have a K1 -- I did get two K-nanos for Christmas, but I was going to return them for store credit at my LFS since I also got the mp10. Maybe I can trade them for a K1 or a Tunze Nanostream or something. Heat is a concern -- I was hoping to just use the one vortech.

What's the advantage of making the "surge" with the long pulse? I haven't ever used an "add-on powerhead" before, so I don't really understand the benefits of one flow pattern (or, in the case of the vortech, "mode") over another. I just like when I see detritus not settling on my sand and algae not overgrowing my tank! I have seen most people prefer the Reef Crest mode.

 

[reeftivo]

The blennie was probably fed something different at the LFS and got a taste for that. The first one I had starved to death too. I never asked my LFS when I bought it but found that they were feeding it spirulina/mysis mix cubes. The tang will work but you'll have to get it out after it's down. They swim like maniacs and as you've heard, for some reason they go down hill with out a lot of space.

Short pulse caused too much wave action for me and with my rock scape being so close to the front glass, I was not getting good movement at the bottom. The long pulse still gives a nice wave motion in the tank but without the surface wave. I think the long pulse would work good for you because it is kind of a push pull motion at longer durations than the short pulse. The reefcrest mode may work too but it is a more constant (straight) variable flow and may not be as effective with the straight push of a tunze nano or K1 on the other side. The pulse would push hard against the opposite stream then almost stop and push hard again which should keep detritus moving all over instead of collecting in a low flow spot. Trial and error? Sounds like fun!! Try and trade the K-nanos and if you can't pm me, Ive got a spare Tunze.