CADlights 39g Pro build thread

I tried slowing down the return pump but that didn't do anything but make the problem worse. I do have a tube in the top of the Durso as well so this problem was really weird.

After searching RC for solutions to this "breathing" problem slowing down the drain was about the only thing I found to fix it. I had a ball valve handy so that is what I tried. I also saw that using a larger diameter pipe at the end of the drain would slow it down too so I will probably try that too.

I'm watching the level in the sump to make sure that my pump isn't pushing more water into the tank than can drain. I've also tested running with the drain valve closed to make sure the tank can handle the water from the sump and vice versa and everything is good so no flooding problems, at least not from an overflowing perspective.

Thanks for the suggestions and bright side of removing the divider and yea I figure I'm going to end up with a filter sock

i had this problem with my 39g pro when i tried to install the eheim 1262. it was just too much flow for the durso. you can try and restrict the size of the hole at the top of the durso so the drain can accommodate more flow without having to "fill and flush," but i'll tell you that i was not able to fix that problem, even when i tried to use a ball valve to slow flow from the return pump. i switched to the tunze 1073.020 return pump and I have been very happy with that. no more fill-and-flush problems (no noise whatsoever in fact). I've heard good things about the 1073.040 as well.

using the valve on the drain is a fine way of fixing it (gate is easier to fine tune than ball, as you said); however, you can get yourself in trouble in a hurry if something clogs that drain since you have no "emergency backup" like a typical "full siphon" gate-valve controlled herbie-style drain would have. it will quickly overflow your display if the drain gets clogged.

here's a solution if you don't want to replace your return pump: you could always re-purpose your return bulkhead as an emergency drain and run the return hose outside and up-and-over the back of the tank.
 
i had this problem with my 39g pro when i tried to install the eheim 1262. it was just too much flow for the durso. you can try and restrict the size of the hole at the top of the durso so the drain can accommodate more flow without having to "fill and flush," but I'll tell you that i was not able to fix that problem, even when i tried to use a ball valve to slow flow from the return pump. i switched to the tunze 1073.020 return pump and I have been very happy with that. no more fill-and-flush problems (no noise whatsoever in fact). I've heard good things about the 1073.040 as well.

using the valve on the drain is a fine way of fixing it (gate is easier to fine tune than ball, as you said); however, you can get yourself in trouble in a hurry if something clogs that drain since you have no "emergency backup" like a typical "full siphon" gate-valve controlled herbie-style drain would have. it will quickly overflow your display if the drain gets clogged.

here's a solution if you don't want to replace your return pump: you could always re-purpose your return bulkhead as an emergency drain and run the return hose outside and up-and-over the back of the tank.

The return pump I'm using is an eheim compact Plus 3000. It has a flow between 396-792 gph at a 0' head. I am able to adjust the flow on the pump, which I did but that didn't seem to help the problem.

I like the idea of using a pump that works without changing the flow on either end. I think I may get the Tunze and try it out, especially since it uses half the electricity of my current pump. I'm also going to try a longer piece of new tubing to make sure I am getting it far enough down the drain pipe to break the siphon.

I also like the idea of using the return line as an emergency drain, even if I didn't have this problem.

Tivo - I broke down today and ordered some filter socks - the bubbles won.

Great suggestions on fixing this thanks to everyone
 
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Too much flow isn't your problem!


I'm also going to try a longer piece of new tubing to make sure I am getting it far enough down the drain pipe to break the siphon.

I'm pretty sure thats your problem!

Make sure you throw the socks in the wash (no detergent-LOL) first.

I found that after that it is easier for me to just switch out one for the other when needed and I blast the dirty one by my garage against the concrete using a straight non-adjustable nozzle with a ball valve. I found this works better than using the washer. Remember to rinse the sock good, then turn it inside out and blast away again.

After it's rinsed, I just let it air dry until the next swap out.

Works perfect for me!

tivo
 
ALL, tank is up and filled... no leaks. Overflow is silent, nice surprise. Skimmer is breaking in so no issue yet since no load. With all the issues I have read on this thread and the broken tank I experienced I must say tank does look good when filled. So far I are pleased with purchase and thanks yo all agin for the great thread. Driving down to Maryland to Dr Mac to pickup some live rock tomorrow so the cycle can start.

First issue, although overflow is silent the return into the sump sounds like Niagra Falls. I have a filter sock attached which helps some put still very loud. ANY SUGGESTIONS?

I'd post pics but you guys are so far ahead makes no sense. Once rock is in I will post some so you can comment on the landscape.... or any other advise you have. Thanks for your help.

Eric
 
ALL, tank is up and filled... no leaks.

No leaks are always a good thing - don't think I've had a RR tank that didn't leak at the bulkheads on the first fill - I never seem to tighten them enough.

First issue, although overflow is silent the return into the sump sounds like Niagra Falls. I have a filter sock attached which helps some put still very loud. ANY SUGGESTIONS?

Wish I could help, but as you can see from my posts above I'm dealing with a similar problem. One thing I have found is that the drain pipe should be below the water level of the sump, it helps with the crashing sound of water.

I'd post pics but you guys are so far ahead makes no sense. Once rock is in I will post some so you can comment on the landscape
Eric

Always like to see how people set up there tanks - can't wait to see the pics.
 
I know what you are "hearing". I am lost because in my other larger tank this was not an issue. Was able to use valves to control in and out flow but on this setup it's very restrictive, and I do not want to make extensive mods... reason I purchased this tank. We will see what others may have to say and I will experiment as I move along. If I make any progress I'll post. As I stated, the overfolw noise seemed to be an issue on this thread but I installed the duro and return that was sent with the tank and it's very quiet. Everything else is low noise also with the exception of the cooling fan they supplied... need to replace that so any suggestions would be appreciated. Not sure of any heating issues though since I have not had the lights on at this point yet.

Eric
 
A few picts of my tank and occupants

A few picts of my tank and occupants

Thought I would move away from the issues I'm having and post some pictures of what is going right.
 

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So I was able to bargain some time away from the wife and kids to put together the cherry stand this weekend. Only some minor shipping damage, and I told Eddie not to worry about shipping out another one since I was able to hide most of the damage (or the damage was out of sight so that no one would see it anyway).

Really looking forward to the replacement tank this week. Man, I hope it comes in one piece this time. Although the sump that shipped with the original tank suffered some minor damage from being stabbed with chunks of broken glass from the main tank in the shipping box, I just came to the conclusion that it's not worth having Eddie shipping me another, as well.

Has anyone had any experience with rearranging the baffles in the acrylic sump? Since I'm going to be using the Tunze return pump, I don't need such a large 3rd chamber, and I'd like to move the baffle over a few inches and have more room in the 2nd chamber. How would I go about detaching the baffle and reattaching it? I.e., what would I use to remove the adhesive, and what adhesive would I use to reattach it. It doesn't appear to be your ordinary aquarium silicone gel.
 
Re: CADlights 39g Pro build thread

I removed the divider in the first section. But it didn't come out willingly or in one piece. It did come out without damaging any other part of the sump.

I should have asked reeftivo for help as he suggested since it sounded like he might have a trick for removing the dividers.

I have a feeling though that you would end up having to buy new acrylic dividers but would be able to reuse the main sump.
 
I had purchased two Tunze Turbelle Nanostream 6055's along with the 7096 multi-controller for use in the CAD 39G. They arrived last week, and I was just too overwhelmed with the length and number of wires, plugs and controller boxes for such a relatively small tank. My concern was that I didn't want to have a rat's nest of wires running in and behind the stand. It was really too much wire. So I have decided to return them to Marine Depot.

Since I am going to be keeping fish in addition to a variety of demanding corals, does anyone have a recommendation for a sufficient powerhead that will provide high flow for the corals without torturing the fish? I would like to stay with Tunze, and was thinking of a pair of 6025s using the single controller or just one 6045. I like the relatively small footprint and form factor of the Tunze. The Vortec is just too pricey for me, and I've read a variety of reports on clicking, breaking, etc.

I live in South Florida where the ambient room temperature is a constant 75 degrees all year round with air-conditioning on, so heat consideration in the tank is a big concern, as I do not want to invest in a chiller. I have the Tunze *.020 return pump at 30 watts. So would two 6025's, or one 6045 or one 6055 be best?
 
I know you said you didn't want Vortech, but the needs you laid out are a perfect description for a Vortech.

- Volume wise, the MP40 is overkill for the Cadlights but as such, it runs at such lower power settings, it virtually silent.

- It adds no heat, electricity or wires to the tank and comes with an extremely capable, built in controller.

- One MP40 would likely costs less than the setup you just returned, and they are now shipping with the new ES wireless driver that provide even more functionality. An MP20 would be significantly less.

- You can add the battery backup to provide many hours of water movement in the event of a power failure.

In my experience, the Vortechs move water in a way unlike any other powerhead. They move large columns of water throughout the entire tank, rather than a stream, so placement isn't critical (you don't "point it" at or away from anything - No fish are tortured) :)

I think a lot of the problems I've read about dealt with the earlier first generation models. I run a MP40 in my DT and MP20 in Frag tank (17 gal) with the battery backup unit (I just ordered the new ES driver.) So far, they have run perfectly for me and maintenence is easy - I'll never go back to a conventional powerheads.
 
+1

I love my vortecs! Also great customer service if you have a problem!

BUT!

If you don't want to throw down around two or three bills for the MPs, the the voyager 1 with oscillating adjustment and flow control may be worth looking into.

If I would have seen these when I was shopping around, I would have picked one or two up instead of my Koralias.

That being said, saving up for vortecs is the way to go with any reef system-IMO.

.02

tivo
 
I know you said you didn't want Vortech, but the needs you laid out are a perfect description for a Vortech.

Excellent point! I didn't realize that the Vortech was not a stream. $400 is some serious coin for a powerhead. But I think it solves almost all my concerns. Few wires, no heat transfer, controllable, etc.

I just ordered the Sicce Voyager 1 from AquaCave. For only $42 it's worth a try. I can always use it in another tank if I end up with the Vortech MP 40.

BTW, I am thinking of selling the 39G Pro stock lighting in anticipation of an LED upgrade. It's still sitting in the original boxes, unopened and unused. I tested them to make sure they work. Anyone have any ideas on what I can sell the stock 150 HQIs for on craiglist? I wonder if Eddie would take them back.
 
I am using an MP40 on one back glass, turned down to about 50%, and a Hydor Koralia Nano on the other side along with a hydor FLO water deflector on each return and there don't seem to be any dead spots nor are the fish pushed around. I didn't feel that the Vortech would get to the bottom of the opposite side of the tank with my rock configuration. I imagine if I had put the Vortech on the side of the tank I wouldn't need any additional powerheads but I didn't like the way it looked.

The Sicce on the opposite side of a Vortech would probably work out perfectly for you. Though you might find that two Sicce's might work well too, and much cheaper.
 
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I'm at the point now where all my components are matched well and it's now time to just sit back and watch things grow.

I do miss the fun of getting new toys and playing with flow!

I'd sell the stock cadlight fixture for $150. It's almost identical to the aquatraders fixture and $150 would be reasonable.
 
Plumbing question.

The second tank arrived today in one piece. Thanks Eddie!

I bought the tank only option, not even plumbing. The return holes in the overflow seem to be drilled for 3/4". Seems big to me, was expecting 1/2".

Are you guys usung 3/4" Loc Line or is there a reducer in there to 1/2"?
 
seems like they fixed the shipping problem quickly and its working!

i placed my order for the 50g Artisan Today and was on the fence a little bit these 2 weeks from the shipping issues they were having from UPS (TANK KILLERS). i called Eddie and they said they solved the shipping issue right away and since last week they are already shipping with Fedex and adjusted to Fedex specs. that was quick. looking at how they packed the tanks, its definitely better than what i have seen how other tanks are packed.

cant wait to get started. im getting the 50G with the new upgrades:
16G Sump (No extra charge)
Sicce Pump (No extra charge)
NAC-6 ($90 upgrade)

back to my main point, CAD says that the plumbing for the Artisan is the same as the plumbing for the Pro, thats why im here.
 
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