CADlights 39g Pro build thread

I've got the standard Bubble-Magus skimmer that came with the Pro. How often do you all clean this skimmer? Mine worked for about 6 months, then stopped making bubbles. I finally figured out how to clean that blue and white air intake part on the pump and it started working like a champ again. But two weeks later, it got clogged up again. I wasn't expecting to have to clean it that often at that level. Do you clean it that often?

This is all new to me. I started looking at skimmers last night, but this one seems to work great when the air is not clogged up.

you might have calcium carbonate buildup on the pump/impeller itself. i've definitely had that problem with the nac3+. try soaking it in vinegar for a good long while, or if you trust yourself not to get too splashy, a 10-to-1 water-to-muriatic acid solution for about 20 minutes. rinse very, very well and scrub the impeller/etc. to make sure it's turning without catching. it will run like new!

(unless of course the pump has gone bad, which is a distinct possibility)
 
Hey I'm going to be selling my pro with no cabinet. But with sump and mh t5 light( the old style). What do you think I can get or ask for?

seems like a good place to start would be looking at cad's website, getting the prices of those items if you bought them new, and then discount them based on how old they are (this mostly applies to the light) and how urgently you're trying to move them. you're selling the best parts of the setup, so that's something -- i'm not sure what you mean by "old style" light fixture -- is that the silver one? if so, that probably wouldn't get as much as the black one they currently sell.

if i can fix my black one, i'll probably list it for around $140 shipped, which is a about half of what it costs new ($275 on cadlights.com).
 
Here are some mods I made to my 39G. I removed the center overflow and plumbed an overflow and return thru the back wall. This opens up a fair bit of real estate in the tank and helps eliminate dead spots. I siliconed a piece of glass left over from the overflow to cover the holes in the bottom of the tank. The overflow I now have is a 700 gph overflow from glass-holes that uses 1.5 inch pipe for the return. The return pipe is the Tunze inlet pipeset connected to the new Tunze 1073.05 variale speed return pump. The return pipe is 3/4".

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Looking good! Forgive me if I missed it but do you have the tunze skimmer box (sump) in there under cabinet? Can't really tell by the pics. If that's the case you may want to consider a remote zeovit reactor to compliment it. I would even go as far as recommending a TLF reactor run off a maxi 1200 with stones. You would only need to mount it so it could be shaken daily. Let me know if you may go that route and I'll help you out.
 
Yes, tivo! That is the Tunze skimmer kit under there. I actually already have the TLF that I planned to use with Rowaphos. I know ur a Chemipure guy. But please tell me more about the Zeovit. Btw, I have a GHL Profilux 3 and matching 4-pump doser sitting in my basement, just itching to get in there. And my Geisemann 24" 250w MH with 4 T-5s. And I still haven't gotten around to unpacking my Artisan. Maybe next year.
 
With Zeovit you wouldn't need the rowaphos or a fuge for that matter. The supplements, however, are a bit pricy but they work.

Ultimately it is a ULNS system that utilizes select zeolites that colonize with bacterial strains that ultra purify the water. The basic four are the starting elements (zeobac, start3, zeofood7 and of course the zeolite stones).

Here's a link to a much better explaination of zeovit than I could provide without getting blue in the face (or fingers-LOL). Check out the info to determine if its something you may want to consider. It's not for everyone because there is a strict regimen involved.
http://www.zeovit.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10354

Oh, wish I had an artisan I could get around to unpacking-Maybe next year-LOL!

Glad they took care of you!! You deserved it after all the headaches.

Peace & Happy Reefing.
 
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Hey guys, just wanted to post an update. Progress has been slow. But here is a new scape shot. I put this together using 3/8" fiberglass rod and 3/8" cutting board material. I will cut down the fiberglass rod so that is is hidden within the rock. This is just a rough scape right now. I'm not sure how I like it yet. But it definitely keeps the rock up off the sand. I will be putting about 1 inch of sand on the bottom to cover up the 3/8" cutting board. I will have 2 Vortechs in there. An Mp10 and Mp40, and I should be able to run the Mp10 right along the bottom on the back wall to keep detris from accumulating under the rock canopy.

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very nice meinestrasse!

you'll have great flow with that configuration. Did you thread the rods into the base or glue them?

Also, where did you pick up the shelf rock?

Great Job!

My system has been stable for quite some time now but I'm getting ready to do a huge cleaning on all the plumbing and reconfigure the return plumbing. My "Y" into the return nozzles works very well at equalizing pressure on the returns but it needs frequent cleaning because of the restricted diameter of the fitting so I'm opting for all hard PVC.

similar to this but without the hofer BB
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if you're doing a full cleaning, be careful cleaning the vortechs -- i was cleaning my mp10 recently (10:1 water:muriatic acid), and two of the pieces of the wetside assembly had gotten really cemented together, and in an effort to pull them apart (after letting them soak for 15 minutes!), i folded a fin right off my mp10's propeller! didn't snap, just folded right off like it was cardboard!

it was a clean break, so i was able to use superglue gel to fix it.. and, it's been working fine since then.. but, still! nerveracking to say the least.
 
I hear ya!

I clean my vortechs weekly when I do my Wc's so I haven't had an issue with the wet side binding yet. I think alot of it also has to do with the lower alk and Ca that I run so calcium carbonate doesn't build on the connected components as much as it would with higher levels.

Cleaning will consist of running a 3 foot flex brush through all PVC, tear down of all pumps (not at the same time(-:) and scrubbing the sump along with chiller lines.

Lots of work but tons of fun!
 
very nice meinestrasse!

you'll have great flow with that configuration. Did you thread the rods into the base or glue them?

Also, where did you pick up the shelf rock?

I drilled 3/8" diameter holes into the cutting board with a drill press using a forstner bit and slipped the 3/8" fiberglass rod into the holes. I didn't drill completely through the cutting board because I didn't want to risk the rod resting on the glass bottom (would be like hammering a nail into glass if a rock bumped into the rod). The rod fits snug like a glove. The forstner bit leaves a smooth, flat bottom in the hole. I'll probably end up gluing the rod into the holes for safety, but it definitely holds its own without any glue or silicone.

The rock is BRS dry shelf rock. I specifically requested small and medium sized shelf pieces from BRS. I was fortunate to get those, as all they have in stock right now are large ones. Looks like there was a run on that rock.
 
Wow, I haven't posted here or on Nano-Reef.com in a looonnnggg time.

It's good to see that many of the long time 39CAD owners are still around. It took a while to catch up reading. Your tanks are still looking great guys!

It's funny to read that CAD is still having QA and customer support issues. Pretty sad, as they are sweet looking tanks.

Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk
 
Hey Gang :)

It's been awhile since any updates - Things are going well. I'll have to get a new FTS shot. The only significant change is CA/ALk supplementation. I've been using BRS 2-part with BRS peristaltic dosing pumps with success, but my high demand requires such large amounts (~120 ml each daily), I've been dealing with salinity creep.

Just this morning I bit the bullet and went GEO

  • GEO 612 w/TE Course Media
  • AquariumPlants digital CO2 regulator
  • another PM1 w/pH probe for the Apex
  • Aqualifter to feed the reactor.

I hated the expense on a system with a total of only about 70 gallons (CADPRo, sump and FT), but hopefully it will provide many years of service on future, larger systems.
 
Has anyone had to replace the cabinet door hinges yet? The hinges on my DT cabinet are almost rusted clean-through. They will need to be replaced soon. I was trying to find a part number on them, but none is visible. Just wondering if these can be local sourced or if CAD has them, and if so - how much?

I'm thinking the next set will get a coat of petroleum jelly.
 
i talked to eddie about this about a year ago (he said he had never heard of anyone having rust problems on these hinges! ha!). he said you can just go pick them up at home depot. i have seen them there and at lowe's. easy fix.
 
Thanks timdanger,

Not sure what Eddie was thinking, hard to imagine most everyone wouldn't have problems with the hinges eventually.

Off to Home Depot I go, rusted latch in hand :)
 
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