Calcium Reactor Questions

[Jet Black]

Some great people here greatly helped me out with the equipment, and I want to make sure I have it set up right. It is the older Knop C reactor and I have the ability to control it with an apex setup. Now what do I turn on and off based off of the pH? The solenoid or the feed pump? Both?

Where do I put the pH probe? If I remember right, Greenhead told me to put the probe with the return tubing in a cup that spills into the sump. That way if the pH of the water in the cup is below 7.5 (?) then the solenoid is turned off? Would I need a second pH probe for the tank?

What is the optimal pH? Greenhead told me everything I needed to know about the best ranges for different medias but I kinda forgot... I'm using crushed coral, average is about .75 of an inch long if that means anything. What would be the suggested CO2 bubble count? My set up is about 40 gallons and is populated with ~20 LPS frags and two moderate colonies. (I haven't been brave enough for SPS, every time I put one in there something bad always happens)


Ideally it will be LPS dominant with some SPS but some of you are really determined to set me on a track of colorful sticks. I have a feeling with my new found stability that I'm going to convert to the dark side.

 

[greenhead]

I don't know much about that reactor. But there are some good starting points. I run a ph of the effluent coming out of the reactor at 6.7 to 6.8. If your reactor has a ph port you test it there. If not run the cup like I showed you. Simply hang a cup over the area you want your effluent to go and make a drip hole 3/4 way up. Drip your effluent into cup starting at 1 drop per second at a ph of 6.8. Since you have the apex set your solenoid to power off when ph hits 6.7 and back on at 6.8 that way you don't have to worry so much about bubble count as the controller is protecting you from going to low. Your feed and recirculation pump always run. Control your drip rate near where your line is going into cup.

 

[greenhead]

Even if you have a ph port I like to run the cup/container to let the co2 escape before going into your sump. Remember when using the cup method the ph reading takes s while to change since it has to change out most of the water in cup. So when first setting it up dump the effluent after change and get a reading off new effluent. On you regulator when starting out you can go a little faster than 1 bubble per second since your apex will cut power stopping co2 if ph falls below where u set it.

With the apex use your primary ph probe to monitor your tank ph and secondary to monitor the ph of effluent. If you don't have another probe then just use the one I loaned you and recalibrate it with your apex. It was a brand new lab grade probe.

Also if you can feed the system off your return line. It needs such a low amount I don't see a need for another pump unless you can tie into anything you currently have, either return or other reactors.

Start slow and watch KH. Remember don't use it to try and increase anything. Just use it to hold KH and Calcium where they are once you get your numbers where you want them. Watch your solenoid. If your putting in too much co2 it will be turning on and off way to frequently. It should take at least 20 mins to get the ph down to 6.7 and then shut off and then another 20 to 30 mins until it goes back up to 6.8 and turns back on. I know a lot of people try and make the bubble count perfect so it holds right at the ph they want and never turns on and off.

 

[greenhead]

In short these are the quick settings a lot of people start with.

Effluent - 1 drop per second
Co2 - 1 bubble per second
Ph Controller - 6.7=solenoid off - 6.8 solenoid on (some set it at 6.9 to give a longer time between co2 doses)

Also they make some nice effluent drip containers with a probe holder built in. Google em they are nice. I now have a probe port in my reactor so I get a little faster reading after co2 turns on or off.

If using a cup, use a small one so ph of effluent doesn't drop too far while the water in cup is catching up.

My settings
Ph = 6.6 solenoid off - 6.8 solenoid on (read from inside reactor)
3 drops per second effluent
2 bubbles per second co2

But I haven't noticed any big selling point between testing at the cup or in reactor.

Call me if you have any ?'s as I can barely understand what I just wrote. It's late..lol

 

[Jet Black]

Okay so lets just double check that I did this right. For programming I put it to turn on when at or above 6.8, off at 6.6. I put the bubble count just shy of one bubble per second, Ill be checking in periodically to make sure that there's no break-in period (noticed some water was still in the tube).

I got a small plastic cup, and drilled two holes; one for ziptying it to the sump, other for the effluent drain. I placed the return line and the pH probe in the cup and secured it. Now I don't get drips of effluent but that doesn't seem to be an issue?

I am now figuring that I will have to periodically check to make sure I am getting the constant bubble count and I am getting consistent pH values. Ill also try to dial in the bubbles to try and minimize the solenoid having to turn on and off.

The bubble counter liquid can just be DI water right?

Thanks for the late night write up, I really appreciate it.

 

[HV1990]

Jet let me ask you this. Why do you care about the output PH. That is going to change with various reasons and its the output and not the efluent why wold it matter?

 

[greenhead]

You care about output ph only if your reactor doesn't have a ph probe in it. You have to be able to make sure your maintaining a decent ph range in the reactor. If there is no probe inside it you have to be able to test effluent only. That's where the cup comes into play.

Justin, raise the output tube to where you can see the drops. This is your main adjustment when you have the ability via a controller to turn on and off co2. Most people have to adjust both bubble count and drip rate. With a controller you can use a faster bubble count while you dial in the effluent rate your system likes without risk of melting your media.

Just call me if you have any questions while your playing with it. Jeff helped me set mine this way and it has been on cruise control for 2 months now. Corals growing like crazy.

 

[greenhead]

And yes DI water works excellent for the bubble counter. Although they do make a liquid just for it that I want to try. Anyway it doesn't really matter if your probe and controller are set correctly.

 

[Jet Black]

I'm not totally sure what the difference is between the effluent and the output is, but I guess it sounds like Greenhead explained the purpose.

From what you're telling me I'm good to go and just need to start dialing in the right amount of drip rate into my tank.

Another quick question, is the lab grade quality worth the fifteen dollars more then the regular pH probes? Two lab grade ones almost gets me to the $175 free shipping limit on BRS...

Thanks again Greenhead, I would call you but I'm only coming up with one or two questions at a time.

 

[tfp]

a ph controller is totally unnecessary imo. keeping a steady effluent flow and bubble count are vital though.

 

[psykobowler]

I agree with Tim. A ph controller is absolutely not necessary. I have a ph probe in my calcium reactor but I only use it to monitor the ph inside the ca rx. To ensure that the ph is low enough to melt the media. As long as you can see the media melting under a certain ph number you are ok. The steady effluent flow and bubble count are important. You can tweak these 2 to maintain alkalinity at a certain range.

 

[Saltwaternooby]

I have a ph monitor but its not tured on. I know the drip rate and bubble count to dial mine in. You will get to a point when you really dont need it. Its more of a safety blanket.

 

[Jet Black]

Well when it comes to me I need a safety blanket or two. Hopefully with time I won't need it either.

 

[HV1990]

I to agree with Tim... =) just saying

 

[greenhead]

He has an apex and 2 pH probes. Why not use one until he finds the sweet spot in his reactor? I don't know about you guys but I can't see the media melting. Now after a week or so I can see the media level start to drop. With his demands the levels he needs will be very small.

And in my opinion you don't need the lab grade probes. Plus the one you got from me is a lab grade probe. Use that one as your primary on the apex and the other in your effluent cup(effluent is your output) until you find the bubble count and drip rate that is best for your system.