Calcium reactor

ya think I can run the reactor 40-50 feet away in my garage which is located at the same level as the sump maybe a step lower?
 
Hey Bernie, in addition to the gadget on their page (looking at the Mini) are they talking about a real CO2 bottle or is it just the gadget and ambient air CO2? I ask because there isn't an owners manual pdf and all I've seen are the twofishys type reactor.

I was told that I could dump kalk into the ato and it would supersaturate on its own, but talking online you cannot determine if that person is being sarcastic or not. I do see the logic behind his comment. But I can't tell for sure?
 
C02

C02

Hey Bernie, in addition to the gadget on their page (looking at the Mini) are they talking about a real CO2 bottle or is it just the gadget and ambient air CO2? I ask because there isn't an owners manual pdf and all I've seen are the twofishys type reactor.

I was told that I could dump kalk into the ato and it would supersaturate on its own, but talking online you cannot determine if that person is being sarcastic or not. I do see the logic behind his comment. But I can't tell for sure?

From what I see , the bottle with the gauge on top of it is an ozone reactor...
entirely different thing ofcourse. The mini is a very nice piece and like any other reactor needs a seperate C02 bottle/gauge's feeding into it.Hope this helps ?
Bernie
 
Geo is a good brand , but is a single chamber design which will produce a little more C02 at the effluent end going into your sump , I prefer the MTC (marine technical concepts) dual chamber design's as all the C02 gets used up by the time the effluent goes to your sump and as a result will have a higher PH to match your tanks PH - no need for a controller or ph meter , therefore saving you money !
These units are very much "turn key" type reactors - set and forget it.

With no controller, your CO2 gets used up by dissolving more crushed coral. If you dont control this, you are not controlling the addition of alk and ca to the tank. If you truly want a set and forget system, you must connect it to a ph controller IMO. You can quicky turn the crushed coral into moosh if not using a large size of crushed coral. Adding the secondary chamber is easy and one does not need to buy a dual chamber reactor. Simply connecting the effluent of the reactor to any type of chamber (could be a pvc pipe filled with crushed coral) with crushed coral in it will suffice.
 
controller

controller

With no controller, your CO2 gets used up by dissolving more crushed coral. If you dont control this, you are not controlling the addition of alk and ca to the tank. If you truly want a set and forget system, you must connect it to a ph controller IMO. You can quicky turn the crushed coral into moosh if not using a large size of crushed coral. Adding the secondary chamber is easy and one does not need to buy a dual chamber reactor. Simply connecting the effluent of the reactor to any type of chamber (could be a pvc pipe filled with crushed coral) with crushed coral in it will suffice.

Sorry but disagree ! How is it that by controlling your C02 through an controller, that you somehow allow for more alk and ca to get through to your tank anyways ?... if you are setting your PH controller above the "proper dissolving point" you will not allow for a complete dissolution of the media which ofcourse "defeats" the purpose of an calcium/alk reactor ? The purpose of a dual reactor is take the last bit of C02 out of the first reactor chamber and allow for it to dissipate into the second "slave" chamber. This allows for the Ph to rise before the effluent drips into the sump- typically around 8.0.
Just about eveyone today is using large particle media anyways in their reactor so I guess going by your theory then the ph controller is a mute point,Yes ?
 
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You absolutely do not need to use a controller. You can set the effluent rate and bubble count by hand and it will remain steady. I have been running Korallin reactors 10+ years without a regulator with no complaints.

I got a second chamber made for my Korallins and they did not move the PH, alk or calcium of the effluent one bit, so I took them off. RHF explained why a second chamber would not do as much as people though, but I cannot remember why... you can effectively use a media reactor filled with aragonite to do the same thing.

If you are in this hobby for the long term and anticipate a medium to high calcium demand, then this is the best way IMO.
 
second chamber

second chamber

You absolutely do not need to use a controller. You can set the effluent rate and bubble count by hand and it will remain steady. I have been running Korallin reactors 10+ years without a regulator with no complaints.

I got a second chamber made for my Korallins and they did not move the PH, alk or calcium of the effluent one bit, so I took them off. RHF explained why a second chamber would not do as much as people though, but I cannot remember why... you can effectively use a media reactor filled with aragonite to do the same thing.

If you are in this hobby for the long term and anticipate a medium to high calcium demand, then this is the best way IMO.

I agree wholeheartedly with you about the ph controller not needed for the reactor. I've however have done my own tests on a particular brand calcium reactor using the second chamber and have found the opposite what you got,where the ph actually went up as opposed to staying where it was from the first reaction chamber. But perhaps given that the reactor unit you use vs the reactor that I used are different enough on how either units uses it 'saturated' C02...not sure really ?
 
That is totally true. I have a Korallin, which traps excess CO2 in the chamber, if you set it up that way. You can see the trapped gas and can adjust the ratio so that you don't have an excess CO2 heading out of the reactor. This is probably why a 2nd chamber did nothing for me since there was very little CO2 in the water heading out of the reactor.

In any case, you can appropriately tune any reactor. I melt my media (ARM coarse) about 6.68-6.70, but I can test it tonight and post back.
 
I just bought a Geo 818 with aquarium plants electronic co2 doser... I will also use a pH controller as well.

However, as manufacturer's advertisement, it says it won't lower the pH in the tank.
Anyone with experience with Geo?
 
If the reactor is properly set, it will not affect pH in the tank. If you have too much CO2 in the chamber, it could lower the tank pH .05 to .10 IME. Just tune it right and you will be OK.
 
C02

C02

Always test your tanks PH anytime you are setting up reactor the first go around just to make sure. It would take a fair amount of C02 to cause any PH shift as any excess c02 coming out of the reactor will immediately dissipate into the atmosphere . A simple trick that some guys do with "single chamber" designed reactors is to use a simple ceramic air stone , put it into the sump just below where the effluent drip coming from your reactor will dispense and this will certainly "blow off" any excess C02 out of the water.

Cheers
 
I'm new to this so sorry if this sounds silly --- but how do you get water into and out of the reactor - is there a specific pump you use and how do you control it?

This will get housed in my cabinet below my tank and I'm reading something about gravity feed it?
 
My vote is a MRC dual reactor. Arm Standard Media. Aquarium Plants Electronic Carbon Doser Regulator. Continuous duty peristaltic pump to feed the reactor.

There is lots of different methods listed in this thread and also some misinformation.

You are adding CO2 to your tank, it will effect your PH by lowering it, not raising it or keeping it stable.

The reactor is a plastic tube, it really doesn't matter as long as it holds water, media, and has a pump that circulates the water. Brand whatever. Some suck, some are mediocre, some are excellent. As long as it cannot build up CO2 inside the reactor by being trapped then it will work.

Feeding the reactor with a normal pump and using a needle valve to regulate water through the reactor is IMO the cheap way out. It may work for most or for some but I personally don't like to fiddle.

I have worked with many reactors over the years and solved many peoples problems. I will not stray from the setup I listed above and you couldn't pay me to. I would not run a reactor without a continuous duty peristaltic feed pump, I would just assume dose 2 part.

You absolutely do not need a controller to operate the reactor unless your reactor is unstable and will not function without one.

This is two screenshots from my controller sat side by side so you can see my reactors ph stability. 3.5 months and it has changed by .04 ph. That is without any control, just the reactor running happily ever after... You will not find a more stable system then what I am recommending and you will not find a single person who has followed that setup who regretted it. Be warned, there is some sticker shock involved. If you want to venture into this setup I will help you from beginning to end to make sure you get it right.

The reason I am so confident in this setup is because ph probes wander, sponges clog, feed rates change, and media dissolves. All of these effect the outcome but none of them will effect this setup.
precisionforstability1.jpg
 
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Cole-Parmer Brushless Digital LS Drive with a stainless easyload pump head. Precision Tubing. I prefer modular drive units but console drives work the same.

There are a lot of older units on ebay that are digital drives but they have brushes.

If you are serious about buying one shoot me a PM and I can browse whats available and give some suggestions. They can be a bit overwhelming with all the options and minor number differences. I don't mind taking the time if I have the time.
 
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