Calfo Style Overflow boxes
- Thread starter Jeremy Blaze
- Start date
Jeremy Blaze
Former Reef Addict
No nosie problems with mine. Just set it up like a stockeman drain and its good.
Jeremy Blaze
Former Reef Addict
1" slip
fishkeeper00
New member
Would it be wrong to drain just from the bulkheads with a turned down elbow and strainer? What is the advantage of this type of overflow box?
Jeremy Blaze
Former Reef Addict
Skims more of the protiens from the surface of the water.
Alrighty guys, I posted earlier about doing one of these myself, after re reading the thread im convinced id like to do a full length "shelf" as Bean described it, please tell me how this sounds...
48" Long x 3 1/2" Wide x 4" deep
Planning on going with 2, 1 1/2" Bulkheads, its overkill for my current pump which is a mag 9.5 split to 2 returns but I was hoping that in the event I upgrade pumps it will still be able to handle the flow.
By the way, the 3 1/2" Wide is 3 1/2" overall, I plan on having a 1/2" shelf, so 3" wide.....
Any suggestions? Comments?
48" Long x 3 1/2" Wide x 4" deep
Planning on going with 2, 1 1/2" Bulkheads, its overkill for my current pump which is a mag 9.5 split to 2 returns but I was hoping that in the event I upgrade pumps it will still be able to handle the flow.
By the way, the 3 1/2" Wide is 3 1/2" overall, I plan on having a 1/2" shelf, so 3" wide.....
Any suggestions? Comments?
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Jeremy Blaze
Former Reef Addict
Your probably going to need to go a little wider, if you plan on putting elbows on the inside, for noise. Maybe a little taller as well to cover the larger bulkheads, probably need to measure the total witdh of the bulkhead.
After looking at my tank, my tank is somewhat narrow being a bowfront and very tall. So if possible I would like to make my internal shelf narrower and deeper if at all possible. I was thinking maybe...
48" Long x 2 1/2" Wide x 5" Deep
Does having elbows really make that much of a difference? If it does id be more then willing to keep my current design and even make more room to fit them but if there not completely necessary then I would opt out of using them. My next question is, how do you figure out where you want your bulkheads in relation to your overflow box/shelf? I mean, do you want it near the bottom, middle or top relative to your shelf?
48" Long x 2 1/2" Wide x 5" Deep
Does having elbows really make that much of a difference? If it does id be more then willing to keep my current design and even make more room to fit them but if there not completely necessary then I would opt out of using them. My next question is, how do you figure out where you want your bulkheads in relation to your overflow box/shelf? I mean, do you want it near the bottom, middle or top relative to your shelf?
yardboy
Advanced Bewilderment
Mine are in the middle, and too narrow to put an elbow. As a result they can suck air and make microbubbles. I put a small piece of flat liverock on top of them and that stops the air, until the rock falls off....... and you don't even notice initially if the rock falls and partially blocks the bulkhead. Glueing a piece of sheet acrylic would probably work too. Or measure the width of a bulkhead with a street ell installed, it isn't much more than 3 1/2". and just use that.
fishkeeper00
New member
I have a 75GAL. that I tried a external overflow on and I was not happy with it.So I have deciced to drill it and use this style over flow.My tank has a mag 9.5 return pump.Would 2 1.5" bulkheads do the trick?How far apart should they be inside the box?Should the bulkheads be a certain depth in the tank?,or just low enough to clear the trim.And how far down does the top of the box need to be from the top trim on the tank?
After talking to Marinedepot customer care ive realized once and for all I shouldnt even bother talking to anyone else but RC members....
So, im planning on going with 1 1/2" Bulkheads, which require a 2 5/8 hole which converts to 66.67500, however, the closest bit that Lau has is a 70mm which comes out to be a sliver more then 2 3/4", now, my question is, will that hole be too big? All the Marinedepot rep could tell me is tha tI want as much of the flange on glass as possible but I didnt get a real yes or no out of him, any opinions guys and girls?
The Marinedepot rep could only reccomend that I use a smaller bit and use a dremel to ream the hole out....Something about a dremel on glass like that gives me the willies..
So, im planning on going with 1 1/2" Bulkheads, which require a 2 5/8 hole which converts to 66.67500, however, the closest bit that Lau has is a 70mm which comes out to be a sliver more then 2 3/4", now, my question is, will that hole be too big? All the Marinedepot rep could tell me is tha tI want as much of the flange on glass as possible but I didnt get a real yes or no out of him, any opinions guys and girls?
The Marinedepot rep could only reccomend that I use a smaller bit and use a dremel to ream the hole out....Something about a dremel on glass like that gives me the willies..
goslugsgo
New member
The only thing that should give you the willies is the sound it will make. Use plenty of water and don't press into the arc of the glass, just shave it around gently. This helped keep the bit veritical.
Fishkeeper00 what didn't you like about the external? I am about to convert my internal to external...anything I should be aware of?
Chris
fishkeeper00
New member
When I said external I ment the hang on type overflow for a non drilled tank.If thats what your refering to. Mine would not keep up with the return pump.
James11
Member
I lilke the idea of a long overflow box at the top then one in the corner, better surface skimming. Do you guys/gals have any suggestions on what size to put on a 29 gallon acrylic tank 30X12X18. I wanna add one, but don't know what size. Any tips would be great. Thanks in advance.
matt the fiddler
New member
After reading this thread- I have 2 thoughts to problems that have come up.. In skimming, i haven't seen these answered- though i havent' read every RC thread....., and they are what I plan to do on my next tank...
I can post pictures later....
1- the use of elbows..
I think more bulkhead space is by far the best way to go. but.
instead of an elbow, you can take pvc pipe [cut in half] or acrylic, etc, and silicone a lid from the front to the back wall of the overflow, leaving just the bottom open, [and the air vent hole to prevent siphons]..... this can work in any depth of overflow, though instead of leaving 3" or so for a elbow- you could keep the box to 1" or less [or the tilted one piece box]
2- the problem with leveling the top lip of the overflow.
Why are we locking ourselves into an overflow lip that is set once when the box is built, that does not account for different tank placement in the future, or a floor slightly tipping over time?
The solution I have found was to build the internal overflow out of glass, but leave the lip about 1/4" or 1/2" or so lower than the intended surface of the water. Then, you can take a piece of acrylic as long as the box inside the box, and clamp it on/ wedge it in [or silicone it] basically creating a movable and tunable lip. I have seen ranchers control lake level with a 4x8 board a the top of a dam- with many holes in it- in our tanks, at 1/2" underwater, there is not much pressure on the movable lip, and one would have to keep the true lip high enough- that if a leak would start- the sump could absorb it.
I think it is a waste you time pre measuring and pre filling the tank, when you can leave yourself with options, and a way to tune the overflow surface.
also, with wave boxes- one could taper the movable lip on each side- or even have 3 movable lips.. horiz in the center, but tilted up on the far sides [on the sides- possibly the only good use for teeth as well] - to quiet the wave splash, and stop the fish from being carried over into the overflow in a big wave [in full tank overflows]
I can post pictures later....
1- the use of elbows..
I think more bulkhead space is by far the best way to go. but.
instead of an elbow, you can take pvc pipe [cut in half] or acrylic, etc, and silicone a lid from the front to the back wall of the overflow, leaving just the bottom open, [and the air vent hole to prevent siphons]..... this can work in any depth of overflow, though instead of leaving 3" or so for a elbow- you could keep the box to 1" or less [or the tilted one piece box]
2- the problem with leveling the top lip of the overflow.
Why are we locking ourselves into an overflow lip that is set once when the box is built, that does not account for different tank placement in the future, or a floor slightly tipping over time?
The solution I have found was to build the internal overflow out of glass, but leave the lip about 1/4" or 1/2" or so lower than the intended surface of the water. Then, you can take a piece of acrylic as long as the box inside the box, and clamp it on/ wedge it in [or silicone it] basically creating a movable and tunable lip. I have seen ranchers control lake level with a 4x8 board a the top of a dam- with many holes in it- in our tanks, at 1/2" underwater, there is not much pressure on the movable lip, and one would have to keep the true lip high enough- that if a leak would start- the sump could absorb it.
I think it is a waste you time pre measuring and pre filling the tank, when you can leave yourself with options, and a way to tune the overflow surface.
also, with wave boxes- one could taper the movable lip on each side- or even have 3 movable lips.. horiz in the center, but tilted up on the far sides [on the sides- possibly the only good use for teeth as well] - to quiet the wave splash, and stop the fish from being carried over into the overflow in a big wave [in full tank overflows]
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Daemonfly
New member
You could route/dremel out slight slots in the permanent wall. You'd then take a piece of 1/4" acrylic(thick enough to hold enough screw thread) and drill holes, and tap them for a nylon thumbscrew. You could then easily move the adjustable lip up & down accordingly.
I'd personally just level off the whole tank/stand.
I'd personally just level off the whole tank/stand.
