CalmSeasQuest's Blue Wall (96X30X22)

I see you take your backup seriously. Which is a good thing.

Thanks and I agree. We spend so much time and energy trying to create an ideal environment for our livestock, we often overlook simple things that can place us and our families at risk. I've had 2 power strips spontaneously catch fire from a saltwater splashes (one was a Apex EB8.) Thankfully I was standing there (I was the cause) when both events happened. I hate to think what might have occurred if it had happened and I wasn't standing there. A fire would have surely occurred and involved my home.

Since then, I've tried to take every precaution possible including,

  • Covering/sealing electrical outlets that are in proximity to the tank
  • Independent, auto-resetting, GFI equipped circuits
  • Metal, commercial grade outlets with independent circuit breakers.
  • Power strips mounted high
  • All cords with drip loops or enclosed in cable chases
  • All unused individual outlets covered with safety plugs
Simply having hundreds of gallons of saltwater in my living room is enough to worry about - I don't want to also have to worry about a cheap power strip resulting in a fire.
 
Progress continues albeit, slowly.

I spoke w/Steve at GLA - They are behind largely due to the weather. They plan on starting on my tank and sump this week. Delivery should be less than 2 weeks away.

I've been working through how to handle GAC and GFO. I wanted fluidized reactors with small footprints that can be easily plumbed using the manifold. Perhaps most importantly, as these require frequent maintenance, I was looking for the easiest-to-service options. I decided on a pair of the the Vertex RX-U 2.5L


These will run ROX0.8 and BRS HiCap GFO.

I've been torn between using a Kalk reactor or large still-well. I've decided to use 40 gallon brute which will be located next to the saltwater station. This removes more equipment from the cabinet, lessens maintenance and allows for the addition of vinegar to the ATO Kalk if desired.

I've also started acquiring livestock - The Mid Michigan Swap was a great success and I picked up more then 40 SPS and Acan frags. I also placed large orders with Pacific East Aquaculture and found some stunning Acans at Mr.Coral. All combined there are more than 100 new additions to the grow out tank en-route.
 
One thing I would caution you on with the Vertex reactors: The input and output has you see in the images are hard set in that position. You cannot move them. This may or may not make them difficult to position in your set-up.

Dave.M
 
One thing I would caution you on with the Vertex reactors: The input and output has you see in the images are hard set in that position. You cannot move them. This may or may not make them difficult to position in your set-up.

Dave.M
Thanks Dave,

The inline setup on the Vertex would not have been my first choice, but overall, I liked the reactor best of those I reviewed. I'll probably soft-plumb it off the manifold and use a simple elbow-discharge into the sump. I should have plenty of space to make it work.
 
Vertex RX-U 2.5L Media Reactors

Vertex RX-U 2.5L Media Reactors

I had time to un-box and inspect the Vertex media reactors.



My initial reaction is that of disappointment.



Both units were received from BRS having been opened with the seals broken



The top O-ring on one unit is damaged, the O-ring on the other unit was badly twisted.



Although difficult to see in the photo, the section where the downtube and O-ring mates with the top-lid is badly scarred which, if left unpolished, I imaging would quickly destroy the O-ring.



One unit was supplied with a spare main O-ring (seen in the bottom of the right unit) whereas the other contained no spare.



My greatest disappointment is the overall design of the unit. I was willing to pay a premium for these as I had hoped they would provide the simplest/fastest cleaning and media replacement. The downtube O-ring has to be engaged 4 times for each cleaning and media replacement as both the top lid and top diffuser plate must be removed over the very tight-fitting O-ring on the downtube. It's very tedious to do. Based on the fact one O-ring was received damaged and the other twisted - Even with proper lubrication, it will seemingly result in a very short life and far too-frequent O-ring replacement.

I'll reach out to BRS and see how they and Vertex will handle the issues before determining if I keep these, or return them and choose alternate reactors.
 
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Just heard from GLA, the tank is being built today and might be delivered as soon as this Sunday. :) I'm also having the back of the sump blacked out to minimize light leakage from partially un-skinned section of back of the stand.

RX-U 2.5L problems - I finally got a hold of BRS, they are shipping 2 replacement reactors. I also called Proline Aquatics (Vertex distributor) hoping to get a few replacement O-rings. They said they had none to sell currently as they needed them for warranty replacement. Apparently there as a manufacturing defect in some reactors where the O-ring channel was cut too shallow, resulting in a very tight fit and the O-ring being quickly destroyed.

Hopefully the replacements on the way from BRS won't be part of the defective group.
 
The Apex AFS and Crossover Diet finally came in...



I also wanted to clarify the Vertex media reactor open-box issue. BRS told me that they were opening and inspecting all the Vertex reactors as many had shipped without the unions. They were also kind to advance ship replacement reactors.

Thanks BRS!
 
Plumbing Parts, Parts and More Parts

Plumbing Parts, Parts and More Parts

I compiled the plumbing list to complete the saltwater station (feed and drain plumbed to the tank), CWC, and ATO along with the Bean Animal drain, return and manifold.

Here's the list of parts ordered through USPlastic and PVCFittingsOnline.

I sure hope I can remember where everything goes :)

Part# Count Type Description
24153 1 Each 3/4" MPT x 1/2" Insert PVC Reducing Adapter
62022 1 Each 3/4" NPT x 1/2" Hose ID Black HDPE Adapter
64809 1 Each 1/2" Tube ID x 3/4" NPT Black Nylon Threaded Adapter
64325 2 Each 1/2" Tube ID Black Natural Coupler
56524 3 50' Roll 1/2"ID x .728"OD Nylobrade® PVC Tubing
57470 40 Each .714" x .810" Snap Grip Clamps
64409 24 Each 1/2" Tube ID Natural Polypropylene Elbow
64431 3 Each 1/2" Tube ID Natural Polypropylene Y
64314 2 Each 3/4" Tube ID x 3/4" NPT Black Nylon Elbow
60474 1 Each Black Plastic Tubing Cutter
59036 6 Each 5/8" to 23/32" Holding Range T-Clip 1.72"W x 1.68"L x .80"H - #10 Screw Size
26325 20 Foot 1 1/4" Gray PVC Schedule 80 Pipe
26326 25 Foot 1 1/2" Gray PVC Schedule 80 Pipe
62283 3 Each 1/2" Hose Barb x 1/2" Hose Barb Par-Barb® Polypropylene Ball Valve
64349 1 Each 1/2" Tube ID Black Nylon Tee
58032 1 100' Roll 1/4" OD x .040" Wall Black LLDPE Tubing
28753 4 Each 1-1/2" PVC SCH40 90° Street Elbow Socket x Spigot
28087 1 Each Schedule 80; Gray 90 Deg Elbow PVC Socket 1-1/2"
28088 6 Each 1 1/2" Gray Sch 80 PVC 45° Elbow
28093 3 Each Schedule 80; Gray Union PVC Socket 1-1/2" Pipe Size
28072 1 Each Schedule 80; Gray 90 Deg Elbow PVC Socket 1-1/4"
28074 4 Each Schedule 80; Gray Tee PVC Socket 1-1/4" Pipe Size
64846 3 Each 1/2" Tube ID x 3/4" NPT PVDF Threaded Adapter
26086 3 Each 1-1/4" x 3/4" PVC Threaded Reducing Coupling
26122 1 Each 1-1/4" x 1" PVC Socket Reducing Coupling
60706 10 Foot 1-1/4" ID x 1.62" OD Reinforced Clear PVC Tubing w/Polyester Braid
27275 1 Each Schedule 80; Gray Female Adaptor Threaded X Socket 1-1/4" Pipe Size
24034 2 Each 1-1/4" PVC Adapter
57164 4 Each 1.123" x 1.296" Snap Grip Clamps
16501 1 Roll PTFE Thread Seal Tape, 1/2" x 100"
820-012 1 EA 1-1/4" Schedule 80 PVC Cross 820-012
S1720C12 1 EA 1-1/4" Clear PVC True Union Swing Check Valve - Socket
2022-015 1 EA 1 1/2" PVC Socket Gate Valve Spears 2022-015
2022-012 5 EA 1 1/4" PVC Socket Gate Valve Spears 2022-012
21105012 2 EA 1 1/4" PVC True Union Ball Valve 021105012
897012 3 EA 1-1/4" Schedule 80 PVC (S x S) Union 897-012
898012 1 EA 1-1/4" Schedule 80 PVC (FPT x FPT) Union 898-012
848012 1 EA 1-1/4" Schedule 80 PVC FPT Cap 848-012
 
A few updates...

  • Another delay - GLA says the tank won't be delivered until next weekend.
  • The replacement media reactors arrived and appear to be free of the O-ring defect.
  • Since it seems it will be forever before the tank is ready for livestock, I ordered additional livestock for the grow out tank including a Monti collection, a large group of Acans and a bunch of misc frags.
  • The ribbon LEDs to illuminate the cabinet arrived - 24 Watts of 6000K waterproof light
 
Hi , your learning Steve from GLA is like a week or 2 over his guestimated done time. I purchased 2 of his tanks a 140 and 165W. Mostly happy with the build quality.

What are your thoughts on the WPs ?
 
Lots of learning taking place in this build thread- thank you! You mentioned using a generator. Can you share more about this - type/kW/ transfer panel etc...also how does the APC interact with the generator. Thanks!
 
If your using a booster pump and a saddle valve chances are pretty good that your out drawing the saddle valve. The best bet is to cut the punctured section of copper out and solder in a t-fitting. Then add the proper compression hookup for the 1/4" supply line.

I'm literally tweeking my RODI now... Booster pump is in and supply line is connected through a compression fitted fitting. The issue I'm having now is short cycle. I think the 40 psi is to much pressure to tell it to shut off. I want to do the float valve thing more like you said and control it with the APEX but, that is on a very long list of things.
 
Hi , your learning Steve from GLA is like a week or 2 over his guestimated done time. I purchased 2 of his tanks a 140 and 165W. Mostly happy with the build quality.

What are your thoughts on the WPs ?

Most of the GLA delays were weather related as its been especially brutal this winter, and in fairness; I told Steve I wasn't in a rush as I knew I had lots of work (and learning) to accomplish before the tank was delivered.

I looked at many builders and was ready to order through Miracles when I made the trip to GLA and looked at Steve's build quality. Although I would have preferred a rimless tank, I was very impressed with the quality and have yet to find a large GLA tank that failed or had extensive problems. In the end, dealing with a high quality, local builder trumped a rimless build from Canada.

An interesting thing that's happened to me on this build is I've "slowed my roll." Without exception, with all my prior builds I was in a hurry to get the tank designed, built and into cycle - This one is different. I don't have such a sense of urgency, instead having fun thoroughly researching every idea, component and process. I'm really enjoying the early processes more than before. It helps of course that I've got my desktop tank and the 100 gallon stock/growout tank to keep me from the stress of being "tankless".

As for the WPs, I bought 2 WP25s to test. One controller died after about a week. The other is running strong in the grow out tank. I'm probably going to gamble and try 4 WP60s on dual controllers. If they don't work out, I'll swap them out for MP60s.
 
Lots of learning taking place in this build thread- thank you! You mentioned using a generator. Can you share more about this - type/kW/ transfer panel etc...also how does the APC interact with the generator. Thanks!
Thanks - I'm also learning lots along the way.

My generator install is patchwork. About 10 years ago, we had storms go through the area that knocked out power for over a week. I cobbled together a solution that is admittedly less than ideal. A portable 5500W gas generator with a long very heavy (insanely expensive) 220V cord that connects to a waterproof outlet on the outside of the house. This ties into breakers in the main box. My process is manual, trip the mains to isolate the house from the grid, plug in and start the generator then energize the generator circuit.

It provides enough power to keep the house running (except for the air conditioner) and critical tank circuits. What I don't yet know is how the GFIs will react (This is why I went with removable GFIs in case they trip when on generator.) A whole-house generator is on the wish list, but I'm not certain how long I'll be in this house.

My prior APC UPS did NOT like the generator output. I upgraded to the SMART-UPS model which allows you to "adjust" the line-in sensitivity. I'm hoping it will recharge when on generator power.
 
If your using a booster pump and a saddle valve chances are pretty good that your out drawing the saddle valve. The best bet is to cut the punctured section of copper out and solder in a t-fitting. Then add the proper compression hookup for the 1/4" supply line.

I'm literally tweeking my RODI now... Booster pump is in and supply line is connected through a compression fitted fitting. The issue I'm having now is short cycle. I think the 40 psi is to much pressure to tell it to shut off. I want to do the float valve thing more like you said and control it with the APEX but, that is on a very long list of things.
I agree, it's likely a single saddle valve would not be able to provide enough supply for the boost pump - That's why I installed dual valves :)

DSC_3863.jpg
 
That may still restrict it a little but is double the water! Lol

The whole it punches through is tiny. It would probably take 4+ saddle valves to open enough water for the 1 hard lined fitting.

However if it ain't broke don't fix it.
 
No doubt hard-plumbing it would be preferred, but I'm extremely pleased with how well the RO/DI system is running.

With ~310TDS softened, working water, and 100PSI across the membranes, it's now producing about 150 GPD, with the RO product water at 2~3TDS.

It's working so well that I thought perhaps the inline TDS meters might have been wrong but my hand-held provided the same results. I'll gladly accept 2~3TDS into the SpectraPure SilcaBuster and MaxCap DI resin.
 
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