Can I mod Durso to Herbie with this configuration?

[fishgate]

If what you've laid out is going to be your new return, you don't really need the ball valve. It won't hurt, but since your drains flow much faster than your return, you'll not need to valve it at this point. But you will need to add a valve to the full-siphon drain.

You want your return flow "slighly" higher than your full siphon so that you don't get a flushing effect.

And as you saw, when you drain goes full-siphon it is significantly more flow. It also should end up dead silent.

Mixing white and grey is fine one is schedule 40 and the other probably schedule 80. This just has to do with the pipe's ability to hold pressure, none of which applies to your setup since none of the pressures are anything to worry about.

The main difference between slip and threaded is that threaded is a PITA to get leak free. Get a good thread sealing compound which should be in the same section as the pipe. They have threaded 90s usually they are threaded on the inside (female). Or you can get a thread to slip adapter and glue it in.

 

[rafini]

Hey fishgate, what I laid out there is going to be the siphon drain. It will be attaching to the drain that is closest to the picture with the grey pvc.
Do I even need a union here? If something went wrong couldn't I just get the parts again and remake it?

The flexible hose is going to remain as is but be the higher of the two pipes with the trickle, as it is proving impossible to get parts that will work with the flexible pipe (I don't want to reply back that hole line as well, I have no experience with bulkheads.)

The return line is going to be a simple hook over the back.

Thanks, rafini

 

[fishgate]

Hey fishgate, what I laid out there is going to be the siphon drain. It will be attaching to the drain that is closest to the picture with the grey pvc.
Do I even need a union here? If something went wrong couldn't I just get the parts again and remake it?

The flexible hose is going to remain as is but be the higher of the two pipes with the trickle, as it is proving impossible to get parts that will work with the flexible pipe (I don't want to reply back that hole line as well, I have no experience with bulkheads.)

The return line is going to be a simple hook over the back.

Thanks, rafini

Then you are golden. You could skip the union but I would use it since it allows you to spin the plumbing any direction you want so you can adjust it where you need it.

 

[rafini]

Then you are golden. You could skip the union but I would use it since it allows you to spin the plumbing any direction you want so you can adjust it where you need it.

Awesome! Thank you so much fishgate. I'll pick up the rest of the stuff in need. I'm going to swap out the valve for a push fitting one to save a little room also.

I'll let you know how everything turns out

 

[fishgate]

Awesome! Thank you so much fishgate. I'll pick up the rest of the stuff in need. I'm going to swap out the valve for a push fitting one to save a little room also.

I'll let you know how everything turns out

As long as you don't mean Shark fittings or any other metal based push fittings. PVC push like larger PEX should be ok as long as there is no metal in them.

 

[rafini]

Then you are golden. You could skip the union but I would use it since it allows you to spin the plumbing any direction you want so you can adjust it where you need it.

Good evening Fishgate, good news it is complete!
It took me about an hour of screwing with the flow to find that sweet spot.
I did almost accidentally flood the floor but that was because I was unaware the bulkhead I have is just a push in piece.

So far so good, I just need to leave it for a while to see if it is in equilibrium.

Right now the only sound I have is from the return ( I need to make some kind of a return baffle.

 

[fishgate]

Good evening Fishgate, good news it is complete!
It took me about an hour of screwing with the flow to find that sweet spot.
I did almost accidentally flood the floor but that was because I was unaware the bulkhead I have is just a push in piece.

So far so good, I just need to leave it for a while to see if it is in equilibrium.

Right now the only sound I have is from the return ( I need to make some kind of a return baffle.

Great news! :beer:

 

[rafini]

I will be ordering a gate valve from reefdepot.ca and also a ball float for the return line.
I added the outlet diffuser and it slightly decreased the flow which means I had to readjust the valve.
It's a work in progress lol.
I have a divided outlet (two streams of current) it is flexible and one of these is completely out of the water.
Is that enough to not create a reverse siphon?

Thanks again for all of your help, I really appreciate it. You made this overwhelming project much more bearable.

 

[fishgate]

I will be ordering a gate valve from reefdepot.ca and also a ball float for the return line.
I added the outlet diffuser and it slightly decreased the flow which means I had to readjust the valve.
It's a work in progress lol.
I have a divided outlet (two streams of current) it is flexible and one of these is completely out of the water.
Is that enough to not create a reverse siphon?

Thanks again for all of your help, I really appreciate it. You made this overwhelming project much more bearable.

Sounds like it is getting towards equilibrium. Shut off your pump and you'll see how much water siphons back into the sump. You can always drill a hole just under the waterline if it siphons too much.

 

[rafini]

Sounds like it is getting towards equilibrium. Shut off your pump and you'll see how much water siphons back into the sump. You can always drill a hole just under the waterline if it siphons too much.

Hey Fishgate, why below the waterline and not above it?

 

[fishgate]

Hey Fishgate, why below the waterline and not above it?

Water will come out of the hole you drill. If it's above the waterline, it'll make noise and possibly spray on something. Under the waterline you'll not have that issue.