Newsmyrna80
Active member
Ammonia is at .5?...do a huge water change now! Then do another one. Ammonia this high will kill all of your fish rather quickly.
Btw You may want to start a new thread
Btw You may want to start a new thread
Can marine ich linger on a healthy fish?
- Thread starter Marinemom
- Start date
The chromis has been exposed to crytocaryon irrtans( ich). Often fish that survive an infestation develop a partial immunity to the strain to which they were exposed. They host some parasites in vulnerable soft tissues of their gills, nostrils and mouths keeping the ich alive in the tank at lower densities at least for a period of time . New fish will have no such immunity and may be infested leading to an outbreak.
To be clear .imo: the chromis should be quarantined and treated,preferably with the tank transfer method . The tank should be left fishless for at least 8 weeks preferably 10 plus to insure the parasites in it starve.
To be clear .imo: the chromis should be quarantined and treated,preferably with the tank transfer method . The tank should be left fishless for at least 8 weeks preferably 10 plus to insure the parasites in it starve.
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I have a question...I have QT and have 4 fish in there 2 bannerfish and 2 oscalaris(nemo)
has HOB eco filter with live rock rubble and strips of filter foam which was in the sump for weeks
measuring the ammonia and nitrates I find ammonia is .50 and nitrates is up to 20
would having 4 small fish be overloading as this is a new Qt
Since you have nitrates it appears the ammonia is being oxidized . However , .5 ammonia is a concern if the test is accurate. If the tank has no meds in it an ammonia detoxifier like Ammo Lock might be useful as a safety. Water changes might help too.
has HOB eco filter with live rock rubble and strips of filter foam which was in the sump for weeks
measuring the ammonia and nitrates I find ammonia is .50 and nitrates is up to 20
would having 4 small fish be overloading as this is a new Qt
Since you have nitrates it appears the ammonia is being oxidized . However , .5 ammonia is a concern if the test is accurate. If the tank has no meds in it an ammonia detoxifier like Ammo Lock might be useful as a safety. Water changes might help too.
There is ample research. That's what marine biologists do.
Ich can reside in the gills. Mostly it resides in a sandbed. It takes about 12 weeks without access to fish to starve it out of a tank.
A stressed fish will manifest stress often by reduction of the slime coat. Fish with extremely thick slime coats, like mandarins, are nearly immune to ich. Fish with very little slime coat, like tangs and angels, are particularly susceptible to ich. Having bad water quality and particularly low alkalinity is likely to reduce the slime coat of all fish, and make implantation of an ich swimmer-phase far more likely than if the water was good and balanced.
Ich is a multicelled animal, not a virus and not a germ. It has several life stages, one on the fish, inside a pimple, one traveling to the sandbed, living in the sandbed, and traveling up to find a new host. The better the fish's slimecoat, the less likely it will succeed, and if it does not succeed, it dies. Period.
Ich can reside in the gills. Mostly it resides in a sandbed. It takes about 12 weeks without access to fish to starve it out of a tank.
A stressed fish will manifest stress often by reduction of the slime coat. Fish with extremely thick slime coats, like mandarins, are nearly immune to ich. Fish with very little slime coat, like tangs and angels, are particularly susceptible to ich. Having bad water quality and particularly low alkalinity is likely to reduce the slime coat of all fish, and make implantation of an ich swimmer-phase far more likely than if the water was good and balanced.
Ich is a multicelled animal, not a virus and not a germ. It has several life stages, one on the fish, inside a pimple, one traveling to the sandbed, living in the sandbed, and traveling up to find a new host. The better the fish's slimecoat, the less likely it will succeed, and if it does not succeed, it dies. Period.
shesacharmer
New member
Wow...you have been getting some pretty conflicting information here but I will try to help.
First of all your DT (display tank) is infected with Ich. It needs to sit with NO fish in it for 72 days to ensure the Ich is dead.
You can use a fish trap to catch your Chromis...it's better than tearing your tank apart which is NO FUN. Just only put food in the trap and eventually he will go in more than likely...the snails may eat the food so reset it as often as necessary.
Run your QT with your HOB filter with plain filter floss and change it once or twice a day to keep it clean. Put an ammonia badge in the tank so that you know when to do water changes. Do not use a biowheel or live rock or sand in your QT.
I recommend the tank transfer method to ensure your Chromis does not have Ich hiding in its gills or embedded. You can use buckets or totes with an airstone or small powerhead in each container. You will need two heaters and a piece of pvc for a hiding space in each container. There is a sticky at the top of the page which explains all about Ich and how to deal with it. There is also a sticky on how to setup your QT. Basically you are trying to prevent a cycle in your QT.
Once your 72 days have passed you can put your Chromis back in and get more fish for your QT. Doing this will ensure you don't have Ich in your display again in the future. And yes...it really does take that long to ensure you won't have to repeat the process...I waited 8 weeks and it WAS NOT long enough.
Good Luck!
First of all your DT (display tank) is infected with Ich. It needs to sit with NO fish in it for 72 days to ensure the Ich is dead.
You can use a fish trap to catch your Chromis...it's better than tearing your tank apart which is NO FUN. Just only put food in the trap and eventually he will go in more than likely...the snails may eat the food so reset it as often as necessary.
Run your QT with your HOB filter with plain filter floss and change it once or twice a day to keep it clean. Put an ammonia badge in the tank so that you know when to do water changes. Do not use a biowheel or live rock or sand in your QT.
I recommend the tank transfer method to ensure your Chromis does not have Ich hiding in its gills or embedded. You can use buckets or totes with an airstone or small powerhead in each container. You will need two heaters and a piece of pvc for a hiding space in each container. There is a sticky at the top of the page which explains all about Ich and how to deal with it. There is also a sticky on how to setup your QT. Basically you are trying to prevent a cycle in your QT.
Once your 72 days have passed you can put your Chromis back in and get more fish for your QT. Doing this will ensure you don't have Ich in your display again in the future. And yes...it really does take that long to ensure you won't have to repeat the process...I waited 8 weeks and it WAS NOT long enough.
Good Luck!
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Newsmyrna80
Active member
The recent posts were answering questions in post 40. I also suggested he start a new thread as well.
Remedy for ich?
Remedy for ich?
I have been a reefer for many years and can't remember the last time I had an ich problem....until a few days ago!
My hippo tang has it and a very knowledgable and trusted reefer advised I purchase Medic, by Polyp Lab. Very expensive but paltry, compared to what my fish are worth. Has anybody tried this?
Remedy for ich?
I have been a reefer for many years and can't remember the last time I had an ich problem....until a few days ago!
My hippo tang has it and a very knowledgable and trusted reefer advised I purchase Medic, by Polyp Lab. Very expensive but paltry, compared to what my fish are worth. Has anybody tried this?
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wooden_reefer
New member
Yes, you should assume that all fish that has not gone thru rigorous QT to be carrying ich, irrespective of how it looks.
Some fish has high degree of resistance so will not show ich but will still be in a state of very light infestaｔｉｏｎ．
Some fish has high degree of resistance so will not show ich but will still be in a state of very light infestaｔｉｏｎ．
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