can thise be my green hair algae contributor

Daddyrawg

Member
I have been trying out what is the possible source causing me to have GHA when I use rodi o tds and do weekly water changes...

Here is my filter sock cleaning regiment..

I Simply power wash first with hose outside house to reduce gunk.. then I throw it in washer cycle for 15 min with clorox, then let it dry for a couple days atleast.. rinse and repeat..

my Question I guess is, can Filter sock be acting as a phosphate sponge or is it all released after days of being dry?
 
Your washing process is likely more than sufficient..

Do you test for phosphates?
How old is your tank again?
GHA should be accepted as common/normal in a new tank..
 
Your washing process is likely more than sufficient..

Do you test for phosphates?
How old is your tank again?
GHA should be accepted as common/normal in a new tank..

Thanks again MAc, ok just trying to weed out source. Tank is about 6 months now. I dont test often, but Im thinking of getting a hanah checker. Last I checked I was below 0.25.. the color charts drive me nuts..

If I test what patterns should I look for? I'm thinking of picking up hannah today
 
What kind of rock did you use in your tank?

if you used anything like Pukani then they could be leaching phosphates back into the water.

I used Pukani in my 75, took about 6-8 months before the GHA started to subside and it subsided because the phosphates had dissipated from the rocks.
 
What kind of rock did you use in your tank?

if you used anything like Pukani then they could be leaching phosphates back into the water.

I used Pukani in my 75, took about 6-8 months before the GHA started to subside and it subsided because the phosphates had dissipated from the rocks.

Here is a pic of my rocks.. a LFS saw the pics and said that those are man made rocks and that they do leach phosphates and bacteria do not live on these rocks? does this make any sense lol
 

Attachments

  • 20181002_203804.jpg
    20181002_203804.jpg
    57.5 KB · Views: 2
Phosphate is too high at .25......maybe an LC and a 1 micron sock.....or good GFO......
Should be .02-.04, absolute max at .1
Something is adding phosphates, watch foods even frozen, the "juice" is not required.
The other factor is light, right amount, colour and intensity.
Based on the pics, that's not a serious problem, but true, can be cleaned.
Tank is still young....
 
What are you're feeding habits? Like explain what you normally feed and how often. Do you target feed? What's you're skimmer rated at? Have you tried to run some ferrous oxide?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
What are you're feeding habits? Like explain what you normally feed and how often. Do you target feed? What's you're skimmer rated at? Have you tried to run some ferrous oxide?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I feed frozen mysis 1/4 cube only a day.. and some nori seaweed.. I watch my feeding habbits.. skimmer is fine..

I have tried gfo for a month, used flukanazole and its back.. dosing 4 ml a day nopox past week..
 
Man, that's nothing. You're fine. Leave it be for some snails and Amphipods to graze on.

It gets worse than that pic.. I have a couple snails about 5 died and lawnmower blenny... they dont touch the long strands.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Phosphate is too high at .25......maybe an LC and a 1 micron sock.....or good GFO......
Should be .02-.04, absolute max at .1
Something is adding phosphates, watch foods even frozen, the "juice" is not required.
The other factor is light, right amount, colour and intensity.
Based on the pics, that's not a serious problem, but true, can be cleaned.
Tank is still young....

I said its less than .25 although in the past I have tested at .25...

Ok I will keep doing what I do since tank is still young.. I should probably pick up a phosphate hannah checker since Im battling algae and have no idea what my exact readings are
 
GFO, aggressive scrubbing, and some more time is all it will take to beat it back. It may be ugly, but at least it's not dino's, or bryopsis, and it can be cleaned up.



6 months is nothing, thats just about when the uglies really tart to kick in. Just keep at it, you'll beat it back eventually.
 
GFO, aggressive scrubbing, and some more time is all it will take to beat it back. It may be ugly, but at least it's not dino's, or bryopsis, and it can be cleaned up.



6 months is nothing, thats just about when the uglies really tart to kick in. Just keep at it, you'll beat it back eventually.

Thanks, good to hear
 
Here is a pic of my rocks.. a LFS saw the pics and said that those are man made rocks and that they do leach phosphates and bacteria do not live on these rocks? does this make any sense lol

Those rocks are most likely leaching phosphates, it will eventually subside but until then you will still have some GHA unless you remove the phosphates faster than the GHA grows using either NOPOX or GFO.

For the LFS to tell you that bacteria don't live on those rocks is just plain wrong. Bacteria will live on pretty much anything you put in the tank, whether its rock, sand or the little plastic clam bubbler that your kids want. How much bacteria depends on how porous the item is and how much surface area there is. Obviously the plastic clam won't house as much bacteria as the sand or rocks and your rocks will definitely house the most bacteria because they are the most porous and have the most surface area.

Like I said before I used pukani rock and fought GHA for most of the first year of my tank. I just simply kept yanking it out with either my hands or toothbrush and siphoned it out during water changes. I'll admit I did use Seachems Phosguard to help remove what phosphates I had but eventually the phosphates stopped leaching from my rocks and the GHA went away.

I still get a bit here and there but I think every tank does, the little bit I get my Yellow tang quickly gobbles up.

Just keep at it and you'll be fine, good luck!
 
Those rocks are most likely leaching phosphates, it will eventually subside but until then you will still have some GHA unless you remove the phosphates faster than the GHA grows using either NOPOX or GFO.

For the LFS to tell you that bacteria don't live on those rocks is just plain wrong. Bacteria will live on pretty much anything you put in the tank, whether its rock, sand or the little plastic clam bubbler that your kids want. How much bacteria depends on how porous the item is and how much surface area there is. Obviously the plastic clam won't house as much bacteria as the sand or rocks and your rocks will definitely house the most bacteria because they are the most porous and have the most surface area.

Like I said before I used pukani rock and fought GHA for most of the first year of my tank. I just simply kept yanking it out with either my hands or toothbrush and siphoned it out during water changes. I'll admit I did use Seachems Phosguard to help remove what phosphates I had but eventually the phosphates stopped leaching from my rocks and the GHA went away.

I still get a bit here and there but I think every tank does, the little bit I get my Yellow tang quickly gobbles up.

Just keep at it and you'll be fine, good luck!

This is Great thank you... I tried rowaphos GFO, but felt like it got exhausted fast.. I am getting a hannah checker ult phosphate tester today so I can be on top of the testing to see patterns.. But I have been dosing 4 ml a day of NOPOX... I think this might be the way to go but il l know more once I get my hannah checker. wonder if its considered overkill to run GFO and NOPOX?
 
I run GFO and NoPox, 24 months now. My goals are nitrate 5ppm, phosphate less than .05, but not 0. Through daily use of NoPox and occasional use of GFO, I have maintained those numbers always.
That being said, I used an LC like agent green to clean up the majority phosphate, and the Rowa, only to mop up the last bits, yes, Rowa would exhaust in days with high phosphates.
Hanna is good but expensive, keep in mind that it just gives a result on colour.
I use the Salifert Kit which is half the price for twice the tests and find it easy to read between .05 and .25 or higher.
Use LC to get phosphate down to .1, then GFO to .05.....then take it out until you reach .1 then put it back in......
I found NOPox worked great for Nitrate, but it's effect on phosphate was minimal, but reduced a tad.
Keep in mind the NoPox enhances bio filter stuff which consumes and then is skimmed out, phosphate gets into the water potentially at source, in storage, by adding foods big time, hands in the tank...
Maybe this will help....just keep up what your doing....soon it will settle down
 
Last edited:
Back
Top