Ok so I run a fluval canister filter and have very high nitrates. The dude at my pet store recommended slowly removing my bio media and putting in polyfilter. I have live rock and some fish. He also recommended a product called AZ NO3. Is this good advice? Should I be cleaning my filter more often? There is algae on the back wall and I kind of like the look. Will that raise nitrates? Should I scrape it off? Obviously I do my water changes with ro water but the nitrates won't go down.
Canister filter and nitrates
- Thread starter Kezhodge
- Start date
I'd remove the bio material from the Fluval. The issue is Nitrate is processed by low-oxygen or anaerobic bacteria. The problem with the Fluval is that it doesn't provide a location (low flow/low oxygen) for this bacteria, so it's great for Ammonia to Nitrite and Nitrite to Nitrate, but does nothing for the resulting Nitrate.
Porous live rock, on the other hand, provides oxygen rich areas for the Ammonia and Nitrite-loving bacteria, in close proximity to inner rock, low oxygen areas that Nitrate reducing bacteria love. Removing the bio-material from your Fluval will force an increase in the oxygen-rich bacteria on your live rock, and hopefully a more efficient processing of the Nitrate.
I haven't used AZ NO3, so I can't comment there. As far as you algae goes, it doesn't cause Nitrates, it actually consumes them for growth. To remove the trapped Nitrates from your system, you must remove the algae (or something else must eat it). But if you like the look of your algae, keep it. It certainly won't add nitrates by being there.
Kevin
Porous live rock, on the other hand, provides oxygen rich areas for the Ammonia and Nitrite-loving bacteria, in close proximity to inner rock, low oxygen areas that Nitrate reducing bacteria love. Removing the bio-material from your Fluval will force an increase in the oxygen-rich bacteria on your live rock, and hopefully a more efficient processing of the Nitrate.
I haven't used AZ NO3, so I can't comment there. As far as you algae goes, it doesn't cause Nitrates, it actually consumes them for growth. To remove the trapped Nitrates from your system, you must remove the algae (or something else must eat it). But if you like the look of your algae, keep it. It certainly won't add nitrates by being there.
Kevin
Canister filters can work in successful system, in my opinion they belong on fresh water planted tanks only.
Look at a sump system with refugium. Macro algae over 7 inches of aragonite sand will do more than the canister filter and all those chemicals together.
A good skimmer makes life easy. A 20g long and some glass baffles is probably cheaper than the canister filter.
Sent from my XT1710-02 using Tapatalk
Look at a sump system with refugium. Macro algae over 7 inches of aragonite sand will do more than the canister filter and all those chemicals together.
A good skimmer makes life easy. A 20g long and some glass baffles is probably cheaper than the canister filter.
Sent from my XT1710-02 using Tapatalk
on the spot
Active member
What are you using the Fluval for? Cleaning it more often is usually good advice. Using it as a supplemental or better said "occasional water clarity enhancement device" is what I'd suggest. Water changes may be your best option to lower your nitrates - assuming the newly mixed water isn't bringing more to the party.
So more frequent and possibly larger water changes, and save the Fluval to run carbon and/or phosphate absorption media as necessary.
BTW, what type of algae is growing on the back glass?
The best way to manage nitrates is to have a remote deep sand bed, or some chaeto growing in a sump. Preferably both. Mine are probably 20ppm right now.
I have not touched it in 3 days except to test all and add some 2 part just now. Nitrates are not efficiently lowered by water changes. It might lower by 10-20% for a day. The best reason to do water changes is to keep impurities down and add trace elements
Sent from my XT1710-02 using Tapatalk
I have not touched it in 3 days except to test all and add some 2 part just now. Nitrates are not efficiently lowered by water changes. It might lower by 10-20% for a day. The best reason to do water changes is to keep impurities down and add trace elements
Sent from my XT1710-02 using Tapatalk
on the spot
Active member
Stopping the fluval is an option. A good one IMO, but like you say you like the green hair like algae growing on the back wall, so using the fluval and not cleaning it often will definitely help keep the algae growing.
Lowering nitrates will have the unfortunate side effect of slowing the algae.
mal7887
New member
There are many reasons, in my opinion, why you should in fact do water changes. Effectively reducing excessive nutrients is just one of the many benefits.
Also, by just adding a "remote deep sand bed" is not going to fix a problem of excess nutrients, nor is one required to fix this problem. Adding Chaeto though can absolutely help.
OP If you like the look okay... But just keep in mind this nuisance algae can quickly turn into a problem that grows out of control and grows everywhere and on everything. It's quite difficult to remove when it gets to this level.
Tastee
Member
You could also try adding Marine Pure. I run MP balls in the inlet chamber of my sump and they do a good job keeping Nitrates down. My tank is now 8 months old, and for the first 5 months I had 0 ppm Nitrates as tested by an API kit.
In the past 3 months as I finished stocking my fish my tank went a bit out of whack due to the new bio-load and over-feeding, and GHA started to grow. The Nitrates tested at 20 ppm at last test 2 weeks ago - first time above 0 since the original cycle. I am hoping when I get the tank back to a good stable condition and eliminate the high Phosphates I had (up to 0.24 ppm now back to 0.04 ppm) the Nitrates will also drop back again as the MP deals with the remaining production.
In the past 3 months as I finished stocking my fish my tank went a bit out of whack due to the new bio-load and over-feeding, and GHA started to grow. The Nitrates tested at 20 ppm at last test 2 weeks ago - first time above 0 since the original cycle. I am hoping when I get the tank back to a good stable condition and eliminate the high Phosphates I had (up to 0.24 ppm now back to 0.04 ppm) the Nitrates will also drop back again as the MP deals with the remaining production.
I've been changing water and using azno3 for two weeks. I clean the filter pads religiously. I've been removing the bio media from my fluval canister filter gradually. My nitrates are above 100 ppm on an API test kit. It is an established tank I moved to my house. How long before things will start to suffer at these nitrate levels. I have a brittle star two clowns and an engineer goby in a 50 gal tank with live rock. Everything seems happy. Not sure what else I can do. Side note: I literally have hundreds of bristle worms, I do not overfeed. In fact I have been basically starving these guys since I got it. I assume the previous owner over fed due to the volume of worms. Could they be contributing to the high levels. By the way. 0 ammonia 0 nitrite and ph is 8. Specific gravity1.024. Help!
