Canon 430EXII usage?

[t5Nitro]

Well, along with the new lens, I'll be receiving this flash with the package!

I know Titusville tried to help me out a bit and gave me some good articles.... I guess I just don't understand it yet?
(Titus, your mailbox is full)

One of my friends told me to use ETTL mode and it'll do everything for you as far as syncing with your shutter speed?

Is that a good way to use it, or are there better methods of taking control of it.

Thanks.

 

[hypertech]

I like ETTL mode. Unless I am trying to go for some sort of effect, it is just easier.

With the camera in Av or Tv mode, the camera will meter for exposure based on the background and use the flash for fill flash.

If you want to have it meter for a flash exposure, put it in P. This is about the only time I use the P setting on my camera.

 

[TitusvileSurfer]

I prefer to use "M" mode with flash. I (generally) set my shutter speed to the minimum sinc speed (1/250). A light meter is helpful to figure out an exact flash power based on our ISO and Aperture. This is done by telling the meter your shutter speed and ISO ratings. The meter is then held directly in front of your subject and flashed. You will then be told the appropriate aperture to use. ETTL mode is nice too for fill flash.
If I don't feel like using a light meter, I can usually eyeball the correct exposure through trial and error with less than three "test shots". Assuming the ambient light isn't changing from shot to shot, flash power my still be adjusted for distance. I prefer the control of the full manual flash applications, though I do occasionally throw camera into "P" or "Av" modes and let it do its thing. Usually this is when I am more worried about the imminent timing of a shot which just isn't practical to take time to setup. Fill flash is good for eliminating shadows. Often shadows are a creative and wonderful feature of a photograph...other times they are not.

 

[Jacob D]

Are you using this to take pictures of your tank, just curious?


Personally I would avoid using P with flash. If you spend a couple of days using the camera in M and the flash on ETTL, and pay attention to the in camera meter you'll figure out the relationship between the camera exposure (background) and flash exposure (main subject). After that you should be able to use the camera in M, Av, or Tv effectively with a flash in any situation.

The flash has a couple of modes you'll mostly use, ETTL and M. ETTL is good most of the time and the flash has its own exposure compensation ("FEC") so if ETTL doesn't get the exposure perfect you can dial in small adjustments with the FEC. Flash M allows you to set an exposure which can be handy when the ambient light is rapidly changing and ETTL is not reproducing the same exposure each time.

Flash photography is tricky. At first you'll probably be doing a lot of bounce flash which is easy and improves your indoor shots dramatically, but then you'll start reading www.strobist.com and go completely nuts trying all kinds of creative lighting

 

[t5Nitro]

Cool, thanks for the info!

Bad news on my new lens and flash package...
It requires a signature!
How does UPS work? Thursday delivery I won't be home (school), and then they try the second day (school again). Then it's a weekend and they don't ship. What happens?

 

[BlueCorn]

They should leave a tag on the door. You generally have the option of signing the tag and leaving it outside. You also might be able to have it delivered to a different location; for that to happen it has to fail once.

Do you have a friend or relative that can hang out at your place for the day?

 

[t5Nitro]

Alright, cool. I'm going to try and stay home Thursday if possible.

I had another quick question...

Would a GOOD tripod be the next BEST investment for my camera setup?
I'd have a 30D, 24-70L, 100mm macro, 430EXII flash.
I was looking into top-notch tripods and L wide angle (mainly 17-40).

I'm assuming most are going to say tripod.
Why and which one?

I have absolutely no idea when it comes down to brands or what I need to make it a "good" tripod.

I do have a tripod already. Probably a $70 one. I doubt it'll support the 24-70L, flash, and camera once I get those in the mail.

So for sure I know that's one reason to get a good one. Other than that, what makes them better?

Either way, glass or tripod?

Thanks again.

 

[hypertech]

What camera body do you have? If it is a crop sensor, take a good look at the Tokina 11-16 if you want a wide angle. Its wider, faster, and IMHO the image quality is better. Its a gem of a lens.

For a tripod, look at Manfrotto. I know have the 190XB w/ 486 RC2 and the 55XPROB w/488 RC2.

If you are going to be carrying it around a lot, the 190 is much nicer as it is smaller and lighter yet plenty strong for what you have listed for lenses. The 55 is sturdier and taller but at a significant difference in size and weight.

For the money you would spend on the 17-40, you could just about get the Tokina and the tripod.

 

[BlueCorn]

Take a peak at the sticky up top. It's a bunch to read but it'll help you make good decisions.

 

[t5Nitro]

I've read it. I know gitzo is a good brand from the read, but that's about all I received from it.

Yea, light weight and stable would be good. I picked those two. I would travel with it on bike and motorcycle. Probably walk around with it, too.

With that said, I don't know anything about the different models of gitzo or different models of the heads.

I looked into that manfrotto one. I mean, my $70 one looks and feels pretty cheap. You've stated manfrotto is a pretty good company to go with, but for $200, is it that much greater than mine? I checked the tag on my tripod and it said supports up to 6.6lbs. Maybe it'll get the job done for my camera setup. I'll find out soon enough.

 

[hypertech]

Go to a local camera shop and check it out. Unless there is a sale somewhere, they are virtually the same price in the store as online and there you have the added advantage of seeing it first and making up your own mind if it is worth it.

I'm very happy with my Manfrotto gear. The 190 and 486 head will be plenty for the lenses you list there. The 488 is a little sturdier and does have the added advantage of an independent pan adjustment. If you step up to a 70-200 2.8 or something heavy like that, it may be a different situation.

 

[Jacob D]

If you think $200 is a lot to spend on a tripod you might as well keep your $70 jobby It's not to hard to sink $800 in a good tripod, ball head, quick release plates, etc... and the prices go up from there.

 

[BlueCorn]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14305445#post14305445 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by t5Nitro

Yea, light weight and stable would be good. I picked those two. I would travel with it on bike and motorcycle. Probably walk around with it, too.
...
I looked into that manfrotto one. I mean, my $70 one looks and feels pretty cheap. You've stated manfrotto is a pretty good company to go with, but for $200, is it that much greater than mine?

Remember the triangle. By choosing light weight and stable you're choosing more expensive. It's virtually impossible to get light weight, cheap and stable.

I urge you, very strongly, not to "cheap out" on this piece of gear. A flimsy tripod will produce worse images than not using one at all. That's not just speculation. I have a closet full of "bargain" tripods. It's cheaper to buy the right gear the first time.

My rig cost ~$1200. Two hundred bucks is still pretty inexpensive.

 

[t5Nitro]

Either it was interpreted wrong or my sentence (after rereading, yes) is misleading. What I meant was that I already have a $70 tripod. For ONLY a $200 tripod, is it that much better.

See what I mean?

I'm suggesting a higher end tripod than a cheapo for $200.

I just don't know what to buy.

I need someone to point out to me the legs and what head to buy.

Figure $800 is about where I'd go.

Thanks.

Sorry for confusion.

 

[BlueCorn]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14310416#post14310416 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by t5Nitro
Either it was interpreted wrong or my sentence (after rereading, yes) is misleading. What I meant was that I already have a $70 tripod. For ONLY a $200 tripod, is it that much better.

$200 gets you stable, it just isn't lightweight. The 190 legs are plenty stable, they're just a few more pounds than carbon fiber sticks.

 

[t5Nitro]

Ah, ok. The heads that come with them are fine?

I'm just curious on what each of them weigh since BH didn't have it listed.

What would something like the 190XB weigh vs a gitzo carbon fiber tripod?

 

[Jacob D]

You might want to look at the Feisol carbon legs. Pretty good for the money. There are also a few other carbon leg manufacturers around stealing a little business from Gitzo, just read up on peoples' experiences with them.