canopy for 54 corner
- Thread starter uglyryder
- Start date
Esquare
Active member
I’m going to tag along on this one. I’ve built my stand but haven’t done the canopy yet. Any ideas on how tall you want it to be ug? I was originally thinking 12 inches but now I’m kind of thinking taller to give it more of a built in look. What do you have for lighting? I’ve got the Aquactinics TX5 24†fixture.
rocketlily
New member
I'll also be tagging along on this one. I have a 95 gal corner tank coming and would like to hide the lights. I'll be using a 36" Outer Orbit.
tundra1000
New member
I have the same tank and am in the same boat. I have the glass cover that is available for that tank but as far as I know there is no ready made canopy. I am a finish carpenter and an architectural student and was planning on building one soon. It will be birch ply because it will take stain or paint very nice and the front will be 3 layers of 1/4" ply laminated around the curve. I will document when I build but I don't think I will have time for a few weeks, if you would like an idea of my design sooner, let me know and I can draw up a few details and post a quick write up. It will be a pretty simple build if you have a table saw and jigsaw. A router with a rabbit bit would be helpful, or a dado set, but it can be done without them. My plan also will allow for part of the front and top to flip up on a hinge to allow feeding, etc access.
Esquare
Active member
I went with ¾†maple ply for my stand and stained it with General Finishes oil based Brown Mahogany gel stain then top coated with several coats of oil based poly. I’ll probably use the same wood and techniques for the canopy but I haven’t figured out exactly what I want to do on the details yet (1 big hinged opening or 1 big and one small for daily feeding, also how I’ll mount the light fixture). That’s why I figured I would tag along on ug to get some ideas.
uglyryder
New member
ive drawn up some pretty simple ides that i think will work. the way i have it drawn is ill have 2 doors that swing open for feeding and what not and the top will open from the front right corner, and ill have it hinged on the left side and i was thinking something like a hydrolic prop like is used on hatch back cars so i wont have to hold it open...i could use a stick but that wouldnt be as cool. i just dont know how tall to make it. but im also not sure on what type of lights im gonna use. seeing as i just started out i have just your run of the mill aquarium light.
uglyryder
New member
would this work for lighting when i build my canopy?
http://cgi.ebay.com/250w-12K-Reef-L...ZWD1VQQ_trksidZp1638.m118.l1247QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/250w-12K-Reef-L...ZWD1VQQ_trksidZp1638.m118.l1247QQcmdZViewItem
saveafish
New member
I dont have the plans. But I have a buddy that made his own top. it is made in 3 parts I will do my best to explain it
He took 1 X 4" and used a miter saw and from the top to the bottom cut a angle on them. take the # of peices and devide 90deg that is the angle to cut. I think he has a 54gal and he used 8-10 peices than he did the same thing with plywood. the highth he wanted it. than he did the same # of 1 X 4's again to make the top . the 1x4's on top and bottom is the border the plywood it the center. it is like a multy octogone shape. the more peises you use the rounder it will look the less amount will give more a square look. to brace it up some he a a couple of 1"x2"s on the inside plus that is what the lights set on. sorry about spelling I have a headach
He took 1 X 4" and used a miter saw and from the top to the bottom cut a angle on them. take the # of peices and devide 90deg that is the angle to cut. I think he has a 54gal and he used 8-10 peices than he did the same thing with plywood. the highth he wanted it. than he did the same # of 1 X 4's again to make the top . the 1x4's on top and bottom is the border the plywood it the center. it is like a multy octogone shape. the more peises you use the rounder it will look the less amount will give more a square look. to brace it up some he a a couple of 1"x2"s on the inside plus that is what the lights set on. sorry about spelling I have a headach
tundra1000
New member
The lamination is even simpler because you already have a great mold. Use 3 layers of 1/4" ply cut across the grain- NOT with the grain. If this is too stiff most lumber yards carry a bendable luan, the grain all runs the same direction and it will form the contour easily. Use the bottom of the tank to so the lamination sits right on the trim, if the lamination sets up twisted it will not sit flat on the tank. Run a 1x8 across the two flat sides, this will protect the glass because you are going to use ratchet straps to clamp the layers while the glue dries. Use titebond 2 wood glue, (it has better moisture resistance than titebond 1) use a roller to get a FULL coverage but thin consistent layer of glue between you laminations. Let sit 12 hours and even after you take it off the tank keep a strap around it to keep it from springing back too much. It will always spring out a little but you will be able to form it back when you assemble the rest of the hood. My suggestion would be to make the lamination an inch or so taller than needed, then once the glue is completely cured run it through the table saw to clean up the edge. It might be a little awkward but just slowly roll it through keeping it snug to the fence. Take off half the extra then flip and cut your final width. Mine will have a front hinged section for feeding and a light tray that will lift straight up, or something like a hinge and a piston like was already mentioned.
This should give you a very nice clean looking hood, trim it out how you see fit. Like I said, I don't think I will get to for a week or two but it sounds like it would be a good write up with photos for all those with bow fronts.
This should give you a very nice clean looking hood, trim it out how you see fit. Like I said, I don't think I will get to for a week or two but it sounds like it would be a good write up with photos for all those with bow fronts.
Newreeflady
New member
Tagging along for the step-by-step. I have a 36g aga and i'd also like to build a canopy. I have the stock stand since I got it used.
This person also built a canopy, but no instructions:
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1325884
I will want the canopy to be 9-10" high. Any higher would be awkward looking and unnecessary, imo. This leaves room for mounting and will still allow good light spread from a point source (I run a 250w MH on my 36g.) If you're going VHO you might want a lower canopy.
This person also built a canopy, but no instructions:
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1325884
I will want the canopy to be 9-10" high. Any higher would be awkward looking and unnecessary, imo. This leaves room for mounting and will still allow good light spread from a point source (I run a 250w MH on my 36g.) If you're going VHO you might want a lower canopy.
tundra1000
New member
Reeflady- thanks for the link, that will be one to follow. There really aren't that many bowfront builds.
He built a very nice canopy and I saw your question at the end. His curved face is built with square stock very similar to saveafish's post above and then wrapped that with a 1/8 oak, (either a thick veneer or planed it). The only difference between how I will build mine andhow he did his is his uses a structural frame and curves a skin over it and I will use the curve as the structure. Other than that the rest of the canopy will be very similar. Either way works, I guess it is preference. My preference is the lamination but I've done this many times working with veneers and composites.
He built a very nice canopy and I saw your question at the end. His curved face is built with square stock very similar to saveafish's post above and then wrapped that with a 1/8 oak, (either a thick veneer or planed it). The only difference between how I will build mine andhow he did his is his uses a structural frame and curves a skin over it and I will use the curve as the structure. Other than that the rest of the canopy will be very similar. Either way works, I guess it is preference. My preference is the lamination but I've done this many times working with veneers and composites.
Newreeflady
New member
Which way is easiest to go? I built a canopy long ago, but it was a rectangle. I am not sure about the curve thing...
thx!
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thx!
-A
tundra1000
New member
Very Nice, could you show some pics of the framework and then the kerf cuts in the plywood for clarity. It appears the doors follow the same curve- great detail!!
Reeflady- there are now 3 different methods listed here, I still don't think one is better than the other. It is all about what the builder is most comfortable with.
The biggest difference between esquare's design and saveafish's is the way the frames are skinned. A thin piece of solid wood or plywood, kerfed to allow the curve to be bent in it.
Reeflady- there are now 3 different methods listed here, I still don't think one is better than the other. It is all about what the builder is most comfortable with.
The biggest difference between esquare's design and saveafish's is the way the frames are skinned. A thin piece of solid wood or plywood, kerfed to allow the curve to be bent in it.
Esquare
Active member
Thanks Freds and Tundra. I wouldn’t say that I am a woodworker, more a sawdust maker J I do it as a hobby.
Tundra, I’ll try and get in it to take some pics of the frame. Unfortunately I did not do a build thread. I went with the ¾ maple to match the desk I made for my Office/study/library and the bookcases I have planed. The doors follow the curve of the stand and are recessed ¼â€Â. They also have a curve on top to match the other furniture.
My plans are to make the hood using similar techniques but I got side tracked with setting the sump up in the basement. I was hoping to tag along on ug’s thread here to get ideas for the height and other details.
Not trying to hijack the thread, just thought I’d throw another option in the hat for the design.
Tundra, I’ll try and get in it to take some pics of the frame. Unfortunately I did not do a build thread. I went with the ¾ maple to match the desk I made for my Office/study/library and the bookcases I have planed. The doors follow the curve of the stand and are recessed ¼â€Â. They also have a curve on top to match the other furniture.
My plans are to make the hood using similar techniques but I got side tracked with setting the sump up in the basement. I was hoping to tag along on ug’s thread here to get ideas for the height and other details.
Not trying to hijack the thread, just thought I’d throw another option in the hat for the design.
Newreeflady
New member
If anyone has a plan for one of these I can probably send it to my brother to make. I don't have woodworking tools at home
if anyone gets a step by step together, pls post!
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if anyone gets a step by step together, pls post!
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