Carlso63's 225 Reef Build Thread!
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carlso63
Reefkeeping since 1977
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12481550#post12481550 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Steve 926
7 day's & NO Updates ?
Iv'e had coraline grow faster !!!!
verry selfish :lol:
Put down the test kit & pick up the camera now, It's for your own good !
Steve
:smokin:
OK, OK.... :lol:
I have lots to post about, but I don't have the time at the moment to go into my usual great detail :lol:
I started the tank swap at noon last Saturday and finished everything (including the 125 teardown) at around 7PM Saturday night... was going to shoot a few "first pics" but the flash on the camera crapped out and there was not enough ambient light left to get a decent full frontal shot...
Here is one "teaser" pic... it's not that good but it's all I got for the moment:
I promise I'll take some more pics tomorrow... and maybe do a big 'ole write up on the whole ordeal!
I took this pic maybe 3 hours after adding the LR, corals, and fish - the water had already cleared up quite well by then...
Suffice it to say pretty much everything went smoothly (though kinda hectic) with the swap (other than a short in my actinic lighting - which I fixed earlier today); all the overflow plumbing works wonderfully - no leaks, and pretty quiet (the "tote within a tote" sump is pure genius and the modded NW200 skimmer just flat out ROCKS!), all fish and corals are adjusting nicely w/ no signs of an ammonia "spike" or anything nasty like that...
As of right now I am very, very pleased with the outcome... including the rapid sale of almost everything from the 125 setup that I no longer needed on the 225 (the old skimmer, canister filter, heaters, live sand, extra rocks, etc) AND especially since I just got off thephone with someone who is going to buy my 125g tank / stand... so I can free up even more $$$ to fill this tank with awesome livestock! :dance:
How is the tote within a tote sump working? Talk about a cost savings! Any issues w/ micro bubbles, or any other problems? I'm hoping to start a first time project myself soon, and as usual, cost savings is a huge key. Also, just curious, what are the dimensions on the 54 gal tote? Trying to get an idea on what will fit in my stand. Thanks!
carlso63
Reefkeeping since 1977
Here's some more shots taken earlier today:
Water parameters (5 days in) are as follows:
Temp = 78.5 F (min) 80.1 F (max)
Salinity = 1.0255
pH = 8.0
dkH = 10.5
nH3 = 0 / undetectable
nO2 = 0 / undetectable
nO3 = 0 / undetectable
Ca = 420 ppm
Mg = 1280 ppm
Cu = 0 / undetectable
pO4 = 0 / undetectable
Si = 0 / undetectable
I would not be surpised if the nO3 level were to rise slightly (maybe to 8-10ppm) and then fall back to 0 as the plenum matures over the next month or so...
So far I have added topoff only once (via the direct RO / DI line to the sump) vs. a daily ritual with the 125g and the open air sump
Ca & Mg I have not dosed yet so the numbers above represent the combination of approx 50% of the water out of my 125 along with 50% NSW made up mainly with Kent Marine Salt... I was pleasantly surprised that the Ca / Mg levels were not lower; I guess Kent puts adequate buffers into their salt formulation...
All livestock appears to have handled the transition well and has begun acclimating to the new enviroment...
Water parameters (5 days in) are as follows:
Temp = 78.5 F (min) 80.1 F (max)
Salinity = 1.0255
pH = 8.0
dkH = 10.5
nH3 = 0 / undetectable
nO2 = 0 / undetectable
nO3 = 0 / undetectable
Ca = 420 ppm
Mg = 1280 ppm
Cu = 0 / undetectable
pO4 = 0 / undetectable
Si = 0 / undetectable
I would not be surpised if the nO3 level were to rise slightly (maybe to 8-10ppm) and then fall back to 0 as the plenum matures over the next month or so...
So far I have added topoff only once (via the direct RO / DI line to the sump) vs. a daily ritual with the 125g and the open air sump
Ca & Mg I have not dosed yet so the numbers above represent the combination of approx 50% of the water out of my 125 along with 50% NSW made up mainly with Kent Marine Salt... I was pleasantly surprised that the Ca / Mg levels were not lower; I guess Kent puts adequate buffers into their salt formulation...
All livestock appears to have handled the transition well and has begun acclimating to the new enviroment...
carlso63
Reefkeeping since 1977
Underneath - in the "bowels" of the setup - the plumbing and filtration systems are all performing above expectations:
The "tote within a tote" setup allows for zero fluctuation in water level within the skimmer compartment; the skimmed water then cascades down into the larger tote where it will get the "macro" treatment and goes through a 340 gph Fluval set up with Phosguard and a half lb. or so of carbon... then it is carried back up the return via a 700 gph Oceanrunner pump...
I'll have to get back to you with the exact dimensions of the 54g tote as i am not at home right now - I am posting from work :lolspin: but it is around 48" L X 20" W X 20" H...
The skimmer itself is already broken in; hard to see in this pic but the body cavity is milked out solid with bubbles - I still have not increased the air intake at the venturi or even done the impeller meshmod yet - just swapped the stock elbow for a larger piece; when those other 2 mods are done this thing is going to be a beast!
Speaking of getting things done... the remaining "To Do" list on the setup includes those skimmer mods plus upgrading the lighting (either picking up a trio of new 250w HQI ballasts and bulbs to replace the stock Odyssea units, or going with a pair of 400 w SE bulbs / reflectors / ballasts)... also, I need to straighten out the remainder of the stand compartment... I took the time to wire up and label everything but I need to cinch up the plug wires and relocate some of the test kits and other dry goods from inside the stand to the "storage" end table unit that came with this tank... as you can see, right now it is still quite a mess under there:
Third, I need to install the RO / DI float valve in the sump as right now the water line is just laying in the sump and it looks "cheesy"... I figure if I am going to do this thing then I better make sure and do it up right, right? :lol:
Of course, after all that is completed I can concentrate on the most important thing left "to do"...
Fill this sucker with a censoredload of sweet corals and fish!!!
:lol: :lol: :lol:
firethefish
New member
All I can say is WOW!!! Your set up seemed to go very smoothly, congratulations and it looks incredible. But if I may add something to your to do list, deep six the flowers from the canopy Tell the wife to put them in the bathroom where they belong.:lol:
Tell the wife to put them in the bathroom where they belong.:lol:firethefish
New member
Oh, one other thing. How did you do your return piping from the OR 3500 and what size pipe did you use? Did you tee off of the main return line and if so how many discharges back into the tank? I think you said the majority of your circulation is from the Koralias, what size did you use and how many?
I'm asking because I just set up my 120G and I am using an OR 6500 with a 3/4" return line to a scwd that discharges to opposite corners of the tank. I am considering removing the scwd because it is severly restricting my flow. Again what a great thread and awesome set up (except for the flowers, just kidding........no seriously).
I'm asking because I just set up my 120G and I am using an OR 6500 with a 3/4" return line to a scwd that discharges to opposite corners of the tank. I am considering removing the scwd because it is severly restricting my flow. Again what a great thread and awesome set up (except for the flowers, just kidding........no seriously).
Thanks for the reply Carlso. Your set up is absolutely awesome, and it's definitely a motivator for a newbie like myself. Another quick question for you along with the dimensions on the tote though, is the Fluval a must have for filtration? My set up will be a FOWLR, not a full reef, and I'm looking to do a sump similar to yours, but without the Fluval. I'll have around a 100 lbs of dry base rock that I'm going to seed with another 20 lbs. of choice live rock in a 125 gal. I was actually eyeing the same skimmer as you have as well. I haven't been able to find anything recommended near that price! I was thinking about adding some LR rubble to the sump as well. Would this be enough filtration, or would I have to add more to the system? Also, I won't be doing a DSB or plenum, just about an inch and a half for looks. Appreciate all the info you have shared so far, and look forward to future progress of your system. Thanks!
maroun.c
New member
Firethefish
I'm debating weather I should have my ocean runner 3500 or the 2500 as return from the sump or supply to the closed loop via a SCWD. Reading the manufacturers recomendations both pumps should be connected to a 3/4 inch tubing and not less. the SCWD is much narrower than 3/4 inch and in addition to the narrow opening will also cause 20% reduction in flow. I beleive this will affect the pump in the long run.
the 2500 which also should be used with 3?4 inch tubing has a smaller output tube to begin with and I believe would eb best used on a SCWD. Another option (I believe I'll follow this one) would be to T the output and add one SCWD to one exit from the T and another one that goes to another tube with constant flow, maybe with a valve to contrtol howmuch goes through that tube and how much goes through the SCWD.
The manufacturer recommendations are to directly glue the 3/4 inch PVC tubing to the pump outlet (that is if you have at LEAST 1m head) they state that this would provide the best flow. I'm also wondering if I should connect the pump to the tubing using it's removable outlet which I don't really trustover the long run or glue a 3/4 inch PVS tubing and a nozzle to attach a pipe to. Hope I make myself clear as the manual of the 3500 is not very clear.
I'm debating weather I should have my ocean runner 3500 or the 2500 as return from the sump or supply to the closed loop via a SCWD. Reading the manufacturers recomendations both pumps should be connected to a 3/4 inch tubing and not less. the SCWD is much narrower than 3/4 inch and in addition to the narrow opening will also cause 20% reduction in flow. I beleive this will affect the pump in the long run.
the 2500 which also should be used with 3?4 inch tubing has a smaller output tube to begin with and I believe would eb best used on a SCWD. Another option (I believe I'll follow this one) would be to T the output and add one SCWD to one exit from the T and another one that goes to another tube with constant flow, maybe with a valve to contrtol howmuch goes through that tube and how much goes through the SCWD.
The manufacturer recommendations are to directly glue the 3/4 inch PVC tubing to the pump outlet (that is if you have at LEAST 1m head) they state that this would provide the best flow. I'm also wondering if I should connect the pump to the tubing using it's removable outlet which I don't really trustover the long run or glue a 3/4 inch PVS tubing and a nozzle to attach a pipe to. Hope I make myself clear as the manual of the 3500 is not very clear.
carlso63
Reefkeeping since 1977
Thanks for all the compliments I'll try to answer all the Qs while updating everybody on some good stuff that went on this past weekend =
First, I sold my 125 tank / stand / hood Friday - then I "recycled" that cash into some good lighting upgrades and a few new creatures for the 225...!
I also finished modding the skimmer, installed my auto topoff for my sump, cleaned up under the stand, and a few other things...
You might recall that I was planning on using my Odyssea 3 X 250 + PCs fixture to kight the 225... and it worked OK; but, I wanted to upgrade the stock Odyssea MH ballasts and figured I would also replace the MH bulbs as they are now a year old.
Well, scratch all that :lol: I found a great deal through my local club (www.utahreefs.com) and ended up buying 2 Aquamedic 250w DE HQI pendants and fabricating a 3rd out of part of my Odyssea fixture:
The Aquamedics go for $325 each new... I got them for $125 each - PLUS they came with month-old Pheonix 14K bulbs!
Then I went out and bought 1 new 20K bulb and made my own DIY reflector (with UV glass) out of part of my Odyssea fixture...
So it goes 14K - 20K - 14K... and no more need for any actinic supplement lights either... so now I am pulling approx 800w out of the wall instead of almost 1000w with the Odyssea fixture - so I even save a little on electricity!
The tank does not look as blue as that pic - I have other pics, just keep reading :lol: - and the "shimmer" effect is AWESOME w/o the flourescent PCs "dulling" it...
OK, now on to the skimmer...
I decided that why should I "settle" for the 1/4" venturi mod that's posted on a thread right here on RC - I decided to "go for it" and did a 3/8" mod instead (that's a 50% bigger mod!)... and then I did a 3 layer Enkamat meshmod on the pump impeller... couple that with the replacement PVC "elbow" I added (also 50% bigger than the RC mod!) that I had already installed... all I can say is WOW!:
Before the mods - note there are bubbles in the skimmer, but you can also see alot of water:
AFTER - note the skimmer is solid WHITE with foam:
AND - After the mods - I actually had to go back and reinstall the stock venturi fitting over the pump inlet as without that 'restriction' SO much air and water were getting in that the skimmer was spraying water like a FOUNTAIN - here it is without the restrictor fitting:
All I can say is that this NW200 is now "modded to the max" and should be able to handle my 240-ish gallons of water volume with ease ...
I also went and installed my float valve from the RO / DI line into the sump... works beautifully and now my RO / DI kicks in when ever the sump water level drops a mere quarter of an inch... no more manual fill ups for me!
You can see the fitting here on the side of the sump next ot the Fluval... and you can see I also cleaned up under the stand a bit and got rid of some of the clutter down there:
2gen454 - the Fluval is not a "must" for filtration at all... I only run carbon and Phosguard in it, no fiber pads or cotton floss... I could have just bought one of those Phosban type reactors, but I had this perfectly good Fluval just lying around, so I use that instead... oh, and I forgot to measure my sump dimensions... I'll try to get to that tomorrow... I'd up your total amount of rock from 125 to 175 lbs (just get more base rock) and defintely mod this skimmer if you can... add a good amount of chaeto to your fuge prtion of the sump and you should be fine...
firethefish - I am using 1" PVC on my Oceanrunner; I attached it with a 3/4 to 1 inch reducer fitting straight out of Home Depot for like a buck... the 1 inch pipe runs up through 5 feet of head to a 1 inch 'tee' fitting through 1 inch piping with a total of 4 half inch discharge fittings (2 on each side of the tank)... there is a pic of the discharge setup maybe a page back in the thread...
Oh, and the flowers stay as a concession to the missus (after all she OKed me buying this setup; I guess I can live with a few plastic flowers up there...)
Steve 926 -
For the PVC elbow mod I used a 3/4 inch "street el" fitting and the union piece from a 3/4 inch "repair pipe" fitting; both from HD, about 4 bucks total... the venturi I just drilled a 3/8 inch hole in the pump cover, near where the threads for the venturi piece stop, and used 3/8 inch vinyl tubing, cut with an angle on the part that would go into the inlet, again from HD about a buck a foot... I just crazy glued it into the hole. The meshmod is standard PF4 Enkamat I got from my local club...
All together less than 10 bucks and maybe 1 hour total to do all 3 mods... easily doubles (maybe triples?) the performance of an already halfway decent large skimmer...
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
OK this post is long enough... I'll post my tank shots in a seperate post
I'll try to answer all the Qs while updating everybody on some good stuff that went on this past weekend =First, I sold my 125 tank / stand / hood Friday - then I "recycled" that cash into some good lighting upgrades and a few new creatures for the 225...!
I also finished modding the skimmer, installed my auto topoff for my sump, cleaned up under the stand, and a few other things...
You might recall that I was planning on using my Odyssea 3 X 250 + PCs fixture to kight the 225... and it worked OK; but, I wanted to upgrade the stock Odyssea MH ballasts and figured I would also replace the MH bulbs as they are now a year old.
Well, scratch all that :lol: I found a great deal through my local club (www.utahreefs.com) and ended up buying 2 Aquamedic 250w DE HQI pendants and fabricating a 3rd out of part of my Odyssea fixture:
The Aquamedics go for $325 each new... I got them for $125 each - PLUS they came with month-old Pheonix 14K bulbs!
Then I went out and bought 1 new 20K bulb and made my own DIY reflector (with UV glass) out of part of my Odyssea fixture...
So it goes 14K - 20K - 14K... and no more need for any actinic supplement lights either... so now I am pulling approx 800w out of the wall instead of almost 1000w with the Odyssea fixture - so I even save a little on electricity!
The tank does not look as blue as that pic - I have other pics, just keep reading :lol: - and the "shimmer" effect is AWESOME w/o the flourescent PCs "dulling" it...
OK, now on to the skimmer...
I decided that why should I "settle" for the 1/4" venturi mod that's posted on a thread right here on RC - I decided to "go for it" and did a 3/8" mod instead (that's a 50% bigger mod!)... and then I did a 3 layer Enkamat meshmod on the pump impeller... couple that with the replacement PVC "elbow" I added (also 50% bigger than the RC mod!) that I had already installed... all I can say is WOW!:
Before the mods - note there are bubbles in the skimmer, but you can also see alot of water:
AFTER - note the skimmer is solid WHITE with foam:
AND - After the mods - I actually had to go back and reinstall the stock venturi fitting over the pump inlet as without that 'restriction' SO much air and water were getting in that the skimmer was spraying water like a FOUNTAIN - here it is without the restrictor fitting:
All I can say is that this NW200 is now "modded to the max" and should be able to handle my 240-ish gallons of water volume with ease ...
I also went and installed my float valve from the RO / DI line into the sump... works beautifully and now my RO / DI kicks in when ever the sump water level drops a mere quarter of an inch... no more manual fill ups for me!
You can see the fitting here on the side of the sump next ot the Fluval... and you can see I also cleaned up under the stand a bit and got rid of some of the clutter down there:
2gen454 - the Fluval is not a "must" for filtration at all... I only run carbon and Phosguard in it, no fiber pads or cotton floss... I could have just bought one of those Phosban type reactors, but I had this perfectly good Fluval just lying around, so I use that instead... oh, and I forgot to measure my sump dimensions... I'll try to get to that tomorrow... I'd up your total amount of rock from 125 to 175 lbs (just get more base rock) and defintely mod this skimmer if you can... add a good amount of chaeto to your fuge prtion of the sump and you should be fine...
firethefish - I am using 1" PVC on my Oceanrunner; I attached it with a 3/4 to 1 inch reducer fitting straight out of Home Depot for like a buck... the 1 inch pipe runs up through 5 feet of head to a 1 inch 'tee' fitting through 1 inch piping with a total of 4 half inch discharge fittings (2 on each side of the tank)... there is a pic of the discharge setup maybe a page back in the thread...
Oh, and the flowers stay as a concession to the missus (after all she OKed me buying this setup; I guess I can live with a few plastic flowers up there...)
Steve 926 -
For the PVC elbow mod I used a 3/4 inch "street el" fitting and the union piece from a 3/4 inch "repair pipe" fitting; both from HD, about 4 bucks total... the venturi I just drilled a 3/8 inch hole in the pump cover, near where the threads for the venturi piece stop, and used 3/8 inch vinyl tubing, cut with an angle on the part that would go into the inlet, again from HD about a buck a foot... I just crazy glued it into the hole. The meshmod is standard PF4 Enkamat I got from my local club...
All together less than 10 bucks and maybe 1 hour total to do all 3 mods... easily doubles (maybe triples?) the performance of an already halfway decent large skimmer...
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
OK this post is long enough... I'll post my tank shots in a seperate post
