"Chattering" Turbelle Stream

EnglishRebel

EnglishRebel

Retired Rebel Reefer
I just installed my new 6105s. When the left hand one starts up, sometimes it "chatters" (a sort of clicking noise) and the impeller tries to rotate but doesn't. If I turn it off and back on it starts up okay (sometimes it takes two tries to get it working).
Any idea what's happening?
 
Try taking the prop assembly from the one that doesn't do this and put it in the one that does. My guess is either the prop/magnet fits very tight on the shaft or some debris is between the shaft and drive unit.
 
Did you check the fit of the drive unit on the shaft? Also, check that you have the potentiometer at full power, if you are using a controller the potentiometer knob on the junction box must be at 100%.
 
I have a controller but haven't hooked it up yet so I am using the speed control on the "box" attached to the pump lead. I cannot run it at more than 10% as it churns up too much water (I should have purchased smaller pumps). My tank is 60" long x 30" wide and I have one at each end on the back glass.

No I haven't checked the shaft fit yet -- will try to do that this week. If i look at the pump when the power comes on it seems as if the impeller and shaft get pushed forward and I hear a single click as it presumably hits it's limit. What is happening with mine is that it keeps going forward and then backward as if it's trying to start which is where the clicking noise is coming from.

Another point is that when the pumps come on in the morning it doesn't seem to do it -- only when I turn them off during the day for feeding, so maybe it only does it when they have been running for a while and get warm.

Thanks
 
That is strange, it sounds like something is wrong with the drive unit, check this and check the disk(s) on the base of the shaft, they may be missing or in the wrong position, that is the main thing that would cause this sliding forward behavior. The 6105 should be the right size for your tank, have you tried using the lower voltage jumpers that came with the power supply?
 
Roger
Changing the jumper to 12v was the first thing I did. I will check the impeller assembly when I relocate the pumps later this week. Right now they are on the back corners pointing toward the front glass and I get a furrow in the sand at the front corners if I crank them up. I'm going to position them on the side glass pointing diagonally across the tank. This should allow me to turn up the speed.
What exactly am I looking for when I pull the impeller assembly? Should I just compare the assembly order etc with the diagram in the manual or is there something in the drive I should be looking for?
Thanks
 
Do you have the potentiometer turned down in addition to using a controller? This could definitely cause the problem as the speed would be too low for the drive unit to spin, it would be like a slow spinning gyroscope that will wobble and fall, there is a minimum speed that it must spin to keep spinning. If you have a controller, the potentiometer must be at 100%. The drive unit should look just like the diagram in the manual, but it may have two disks. It is critical that the disks not be too high on the shaft, they should be within 1/8" of the silicon boot at the bottom.
 
rvitko
As I said I am not using the controller right now -- only the potentiometer on the pump module which is set at about 10%. I haven't taken the pump out yet as I am still waiting to move them to the end glass. If I can find time I will do that this week.
To repeat -- what am I looking for when I remove the pump?
Thanks for all your help. The RH unit is working fine.
 
Roger, what Alan is referring to, is the exact same issue that I am seeing on one of the new 6105's that you sent me. We were talking about it about a week and half ago, and I got tied up on a business trip and haven't had a chance to follow up.

I have also swapped out the shafts, and haven't seen an obvious issue that is causing this. I will take a measurement of the disk to the silicone when I get home and post the results and a picture.

Alan,
If you speed it up slightly does it get better or worse?
 
It is probably best to just send the pump in. It could be the electronics, what you want to check for is that the drive unit isn't binding on the metal shaft, it should free spin if you hold the shaft by the ends and give the drive unit a spin. I will have replacement motors back in stock on Friday.

Tunze USA
305 Victor St
Austin, TX 78753
 
Cayenne
Yes it seems to be better on a higher speed.

rvitko
I just got round to relocating my pumps to the end glass pointing in a cross-flow pattern. I took this opportunity to pull the impeller assembly from the unit giving problems. Everything seems to be okay -- the assembly turns freely when it's out of the drive unit (there is resistance from the mag drive when its back in the "pocket"). The propeller is free to move back and forth on the shaft and it's that hitting the front bushing when it's turned on that makes that click (the force of the water pushed the propellor forward). My Koralia in the 55G sump does the same thing.
Since I started it back up I don't seem to have the same problem but will keep my eyes (and ears :D) on it.
Question about the controller. I purchased a used 7094 controller. When I use this do I need to set the pump rheostat to 100% and then use the controller to adjust speed?
Thanks
 
Yes, especially with a 7094, the 7095 and 7096 were designed to override the potentiometer but it doesn't always work perfectly. In general the potentiometer should always be at 100% power when a controller is used, but this is critical with the 7094.
 
It seems that the LH Turbelle Stream is still problematic. It starts just fine when my ReefKeepers powers up the outlet in the morning, but when I shut it down for feeding is doesn't start up (I'm not getting the "chattering" this time). Could it be that it is temperature related in that after it has run for a while the clearance between the shaft and bearing (or the magnet and the housing) tightens up. Seems unlikely however, because if I shut it down and restart a couple of times it works fine.
Any thoughts?
 
I don't think temperature would have an issue outside of a real extreme like 50 degree water temps. It might be the controller, I would check if the 7094 gives the same result. If the Reefkeeper has some sort of soft start and gives the pump 10% of power for a while this could be a cause. Ours do this but the 10% is for a fraction of a second.
 
rvitko said:
I don't think temperature would have an issue outside of a real extreme like 50 degree water temps. It might be the controller, I would check if the 7094 gives the same result. If the Reefkeeper has some sort of soft start and gives the pump 10% of power for a while this could be a cause. Ours do this but the 10% is for a fraction of a second.
Click to expand...

Roger
The RKE justs powers on the receptacle that it's plugged into. The RH pump is fine. Am checking to see if the 7094 gives the same problem.
 
Roger
It's getting worse. it doesn't start in the morning and I have to turn it off and on several times before it will run. if just clicks once and the prop doesn't turn. Other one is fine.
What do you suggest I do? If I pull the impeller assembly out of the housing what should I look for? Last time I did this, the prop spun quite freely on the shaft.
Thanks
 
I think something is wrong with the motor, if you send it to me we will replace it. I am out of 6105 pumps but should be restocked early next week.

Tunze USA
305 Victor St
Austin, TX 78753
 
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