Cheap sand bed?????

that is the reason that "buffering" is in quotes. According to Toonen, it has some affect, with deep sand beds, where the pH in the lower parts of the sand bed is much lower, than in the rest of the water column. (I would have to find the link again) And was related to grain size etc. But I consider it insignificant for all practical purposes. Other factors are more important in buffering ability.

Jim
 
well this thread just solved my problem. I was going to seed dead sand if i could find it, but this would be better. itd be in my planted fuge....i think i can be careful enough not to scratch the glass with silica playsand or pool sand
 
MOHS general hardness test as used by greologists etc.

Graphite 1.0
Aragonite 2.0 to 4.0
Finger Nail 2.5
Copper penny 3.5
Dolomite 3.5 to 4.0
Typical plate glass 5.5
Knife blade 5.5
Good steel file 6.5
Quartz or Silica 7.0
Diamond 10.0

Oyster shells are high in precipitated silica and inorganic silica silicate but the cement in making rock binds the silica dust and the particles larger than dust at are not problems.
 
There are large known deposits of argaonite in Florida, Utah and Idaho. It is also secreted as stalactites in places like the Carlsbad Caverns. However aragonite is most common to warm waters and the much more abundant calcite is more common to cooler waters. In spian and Italy there is a lot of aragonite containing limestones and marbel. Most limestones here are just calcite.

By far the largest amounts of aragonite can be found in the Bahamas, or tied up by living bodies.
 
i have 100lbs of southdown play sand i got from a local guy that had it sitting in his garage for ages :D

thought about selling it, now i think it is just gonna get put away for later use if i don't use all of it on my new build
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14915985#post14915985 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by james3370
i have 100lbs of southdown play sand i got from a local guy that had it sitting in his garage for ages :D

thought about selling it, now i think it is just gonna get put away for later use if i don't use all of it on my new build
Click to expand...

The draw backs to using silica sand:

the shape of the grains. Ruff jagged. They interlock. Not fluid.

Limited grain size < 1mm

Best sand beds are fluid, with a good mix of grain sizes from 1.5mm down to sands in the .25mm range.

just happened to be hangin around.... :smokin:

Jim
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14916097#post14916097 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by uncleof6
The draw backs to using silica sand:

the shape of the grains. Ruff jagged. They interlock. Not fluid.

Limited grain size < 1mm

Best sand beds are fluid, with a good mix of grain sizes from 1.5mm down to sands in the .25mm range.

just happened to be hangin around.... :smokin:

Jim
Click to expand...

so verdict???? display tank or not?? RDSB tank or not??? mix it w/ equal parts of bag of caribsea live sand i have???
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14916152#post14916152 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by kgross
James the stuff you have is great for a live sand bed.

Kim
Click to expand...

would you mix it w/ the caribsea live sand or just use it straight up??
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14916109#post14916109 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by kgross
Southdown Play sand is not Silica Sand.

Kim
Click to expand...

Ok, I cannot say it is or it is not. And if it is not what is its chemical makeup?

"Southdown Manufacturer Warning - Here is what the representative from Southdown made a point to say that he has been hearing that people have been adding there sand in salt water aquarium and that we should be informed to how the sand is collected and transported and stored. Southdown will scoop the sand with machinery and dump tons and tons in dump trucks then transport and dump the sand in large outside storage bins. Warning!!!!!! As we all know how fine this sand is he told me that as they dump the sand in the bins they will spray a liquid oily lubricant on the sand to keep the dust (sand) from flying which can be very hazardous if the sand is not washed prior to adding any animal life. Another reason to wash your sand thoroughly is Southdown is not only a sand manufacture they also manufacture different typed of gravel and rocks like slate, marble, lava rock, etc. The rock is stored in the same bins as the Southdown sand which means that other rubble is packaged with Southdown sand. "

Regards,

Jim
 
Last edited:
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14916181#post14916181 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by james3370
would you mix it w/ the caribsea live sand or just use it straight up??
Click to expand...

Cribsea live sand does not have much "live" in it. You are paying for the water. Use a dry sand, preferably calcite, or aragonite based, and use real seed stock. Silica sands work, however do not make the best sand bed. The best sand bed is more fluid, and has a mixed grain size to support a wider bio-diversity, than the limited grain sizes with playsands (regardless of composition) The information is out there, just got to look for it.

Jim
 
dolomite is softer than glass. it will not scrath it.
Probably not the right thread but......Ever consider bare bottom? DSB's are good denitrators for a while until they are full of crap and they fail.......
 
I have an 90g AGA tank at the office that (surprisingly) has quite a few scratches on the inside. The only possibility is the caribsea fijipink sandbed and magfloat. Honestly, I was surprised.

I have also found that scotchbrite green pad sponges scratch. The white ones don't scratch the glass.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14920851#post14920851 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by sbreefer
dolomite is softer than glass. it will not scrath it.
Probably not the right thread but......Ever consider bare bottom? DSB's are good denitrators for a while until they are full of crap and they fail.......
Click to expand...

Dolomite (calcite) is an appropriate substrate, and can be used without issue.

DSBs, if properly set up, and seeded, and fed, with correct flow rates, and sufficient maturity before subjecting them to high predation and high bio loads, will not plug up, clog up, or otherwise cause any problems. It is the most effective, simplest, and most natural method for reducing nitrates to near zero and holding them there, as well as providing the high bio-diversity needed to keep a reef aquarium stable. It is a lack of knowledge that causes problems with DSBs. (or the acquisition of inaccurate, incomplete or otherwise corrupted information.) I have messed with other "adjunctive aids" for nitrate control since the early 80's, and have found them to be sorely lacking.( or just completely unnecessary.) Perhaps I just don't understand the technology. :)

Regards,

Jim
 
Does any one have pictures of dolomite as their substrate they can share? Is the size of the grains appropriate for sand sifters to play in? I'm thinking of having about a 2-3 inch bed and I think I will try to make some rock with it as well. I'm using crushed oyster shell to make some rocks at the moment.
 
No pics of a dolomite sand bed, if I do have them, they are not digital, as they would be fairly old. Dolomite would be very hard to find by name. And composition would be a better way to find it. The composition is on the bag picture in this thread. It is sold as a "fertilizer" or soil supplement. Calcite (dolomite) does have a good grain size availability, but again not readily found. A local tru-value hardware store, here, knew exactly what I was talking about, and could special order it. As far as giving your sifters a good playground, you want a good range of grain sizes, that they can move around easily < 2mm, with 1.5mm - .25mm being a good mix. This allows a greater bio-diversity, rather than limiting it to those adapted to a particular single grain size.

HTH,

Jim
 
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