check valvues

ddgluck

New member
Anyone have luck using the check values from depot/Lowes. I did a power failure simulation, and my supply feeds want to syphon more water than the sump can hold. So I figured a few check values would do the trick. Anyway let me know if there are good/bad, or if there are other you recommend which a LFS might carry.

Thanks
-dg
 
check valves = worst thing ever (except being stabbed)

drilling a hole in your return line just under (or over, if you swing that way) the water level to break the siphon = 99% effective (just have to clean it once every 9 years)
 
The ones from the local home improvement stores all have metal springs in them that will rust, then break. The breakdown of the metal would not be good for the system, but when the spring breaks the valve will fail when needed. Many say not to rely on the valve and lower the water in your sump, plus put a anti-siphon hole (drill a hole) in your return line about 1/2" below the water surface.

With that said, I got a couple of check valves from Marine depot that are all plastic/rubber and if used properly won't fail. I used the one on my system for quite a while without any difficulty and/or even a leak. Worked flawlessly. It was my only choice at the time. The only reason why I removed it was because I switched setups and tanks and could position my returns differently to break the siphon.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10113760#post10113760 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by latazyo
check valves = worst thing ever (except being stabbed)

I disagree. If you get the correct type/one and used properly, they are great. Problem is, many don't get the right one and they don't install it correctly; thus they don't work!! But that can happen to anything in this hobby. You get what you pay for and if you don't install it properly....well, it is a disaster waiting to happen!! Just like most situations....most accidents are caused by operator error, very few are caused by equipment failure; if you really look at the statistics honestly.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10113760#post10113760 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by latazyo
drilling a hole in your return line just under (or over, if you swing that way) the water level to break the siphon = 99% effective (just have to clean it once every 9 years)

I agree. Gravity never fails. You don't get salt buildup since it's just RO/DI water so you won't hardly have to clean
 
sound like I'm drilling a few holes today.

I have two supply lines which go over the back of the tank, both are 3/4 PVC and extend 6 inhes into the tank.. They're put together with two 90's etc.etc.. anyway just a fee more Q's
How big should the holes be? ANd just to be clean, I should drilll just below the opperating water line?

THNKS !!

-dg
 
what Rick said ^^^

I accidentally drilled mine above the water line and it sucked air in like a venturi and put bubbles into the tank

if your supply lines are T'd then you only need to drill one

I am assuming they're T'd unless you're using dual return pumps
 
I prefer the safest FOOL PROOF way in this hobby. So I drilled small holes. Check valve?? What another piece of equiment that CAN fail?? Nope, no thanks. Not saying check valves are all bad, just saying anything can fail to work properly, and I'm tired of swimming inside my house. JMHO on this topic.

Advise here, drill them just barely below the surface where they do not suck air. Unless your sump can handle the extra 1 inch or so off the top of your Display tank. And drill every return line, I have one that I didn't drill and it still syphined.
 
One tip...drill multiple holes, I have 4 in mine n a line around the tube and 4 more a half an inch below. Things happen like snails, algae and bio-film that can clog holes.
 
Newbie here?? but I use check valves on my return pump. I have 6 returns and one of those is about 2 inches from the bottom the the tank. If I had no check valve then everytime the pump would turn off(3 times a day) then the sump would overflow.
I do not understand the hole drilling thing? Please explain as I only finished 7th grade before my Father made me go to work on the farm.

Stupidreef I will call you tomorrow PM
 
ok, you know how when you clean the gravel on your freshwater tanks (or did back in the day)? if you pull the siphon above water and it takes on air you lose the siphon?

same thing here, when the water starts back siphoning, if there is a hole drilled the siphon will take on air and be stopped

this only works for return lines that at one time are above the water level (i.e. over the back) and wouldnt apply in your situation....check valve is your only option (geo)
 
Back
Top