How to update Euroquatics A1/A1P

I used the eye bolts that came with them and simply hung the with decorative black chain.

I know @kharmaguru 3D printed brackets for his.
I can't adjust the height with my setup but 11 inches over the water worked out well. These brackets are a little overkill, I could have printed them thinner and in two halves and they'd still be fine. I think when I do the bank of four over the lowboy I will design a sideways sliding setup.
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My A1s arrived. (Which was kinda odd as tracking still says they haven’t shipped?). They were just the A1s not the A1Ps but that’s what I ordered, always good to be hopeful.

Anyway will probably mess around with them later in the week.
 
@kharmaguru could I purchase some of these brackets from you?
I could design something more specific to you if you know what you want to mount it to. That part I can do pretty fast if you have someone who can print it locally for you. I don't mind printing and shipping to you but that will take more time and I'm in Canada so who knows what's going to happen at the border now. Short answer is yes as long as it's not a rush.:)
 
I could design something more specific to you if you know what you want to mount it to. That part I can do pretty fast if you have someone who can print it locally for you. I don't mind printing and shipping to you but that will take more time and I'm in Canada so who knows what's going to happen at the border now. Short answer is yes as long as it's not a rush.:)
No rush at all. I like your original design...I just need the square tube channel in the bracket to run parallel to the fixtures as opposed to the way you have it perpendicular in your picture.
I'm going to use a long piece of square aluminum tubing from EZ Tube.com hung from the ceiling over a 10 foot long tank. I have no access to a 3D printer unfortunately. I'm near Pittsburgh, PA. How much do you think 7 brackets would cost to print and ship. Again no rush. :)
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No rush at all. I like your original design...I just need the square tube channel in the bracket to run parallel to the fixtures as opposed to the way you have it perpendicular in your picture.
I'm going to use a long piece of square aluminum tubing from EZ Tube.com hung from the ceiling over a 10 foot long tank. I have no access to a 3D printer unfortunately. I'm near Pittsburgh, PA. How much do you think 7 brackets would cost to print and ship. Again no rush. :)
View attachment 32410076
Whatever the material and mail is. I don't need to profit off a fellow hobbyist. I'll try to do a design this weekend with your EZtube dimensions.
 
Okay, @Nanook brought his PAR meter over Wednesday night. I had the following settings:

UV - 70%
Royal Blue - 90%
Blue - 80%
Cool White - 60%
Warm White - 60%

Intensity max was 65%. The PAR was horrible for SPS. The front corners where I had previously noticed shading were aroung 100-150 PAR.

We upped the 3 blue channels to 100% and the 2 white channels to 90% and upped the intensity to 100% and now we're blasting things.

No wonder all my SPS browned out and my Rics were not happy when I changed to these lights. To be fair, this was my first foray into LED and I was seriously concerned about burning my corals. Apparently, I was WAY to conservative on setting them up.

So, @JCOLE you're gonna want to blast these with your new tank.
 
Adding, with the above settings, I'm getting a nice crisp, old school 10K look and it's awesome.
 
Oh, and don't get me wrong, I still think these lights are fantastic, especially for the price. It was my lack of knowledge/experience with LED that led to my SPS browning out and my Rics not being happy.

ETA - With the new settings, the fans are running almost constantly:-)
 
Okay, @Nanook brought his PAR meter over Wednesday night. I had the following settings:

UV - 70%
Royal Blue - 90%
Blue - 80%
Cool White - 60%
Warm White - 60%

Intensity max was 65%. The PAR was horrible for SPS. The front corners where I had previously noticed shading were aroung 100-150 PAR.

We upped the 3 blue channels to 100% and the 2 white channels to 90% and upped the intensity to 100% and now we're blasting things.

No wonder all my SPS browned out and my Rics were not happy when I changed to these lights. To be fair, this was my first foray into LED and I was seriously concerned about burning my corals. Apparently, I was WAY to conservative on setting them up.

So, @JCOLE you're gonna want to blast these with your new tank.

Thanks! I was curious on what PAR I would get. My last 3 came in and they were all the A1's. So I have 5 A1's and 3 A1P's. I am thinking 4 in the front and 4 in the back. Don't know where I will put the A1Ps. Probably somewhere in the middle.
 
Thanks! I was curious on what PAR I would get. My last 3 came in and they were all the A1's. So I have 5 A1's and 3 A1P's. I am thinking 4 in the front and 4 in the back. Don't know where I will put the A1Ps. Probably somewhere in the middle.
Sounds like a good plan. I really think if you run them full out, you'll be fine. But, again, this is my first experience with LED so I'm still learning.
 
Sounds like a good plan. I really think if you run them full out, you'll be fine. But, again, this is my first experience with LED so I'm still learning.

Did you happen to get a reading under the lights above the water? My Nicrew over the 20 puts out 1400 PAR 6 inches under the fixture at 100 blues and 40 whites. LEDs can put out some serious PAR.
 
Not out of water and (thanks to the free flowing beer and never having measured PAR before) I don’t remember the #’s. But, I think a couple inches under the surface was 500+ easy.
 
Okay, @Nanook brought his PAR meter over Wednesday night. I had the following settings:

UV - 70%
Royal Blue - 90%
Blue - 80%
Cool White - 60%
Warm White - 60%

Intensity max was 65%. The PAR was horrible for SPS. The front corners where I had previously noticed shading were aroung 100-150 PAR.

We upped the 3 blue channels to 100% and the 2 white channels to 90% and upped the intensity to 100% and now we're blasting things.

No wonder all my SPS browned out and my Rics were not happy when I changed to these lights. To be fair, this was my first foray into LED and I was seriously concerned about burning my corals. Apparently, I was WAY to conservative on setting them up.

So, @JCOLE you're gonna want to blast these with your new tank.
Sounds about right.... from the readings I got with the Kilowatt Reader if you were at 65% intensity you were consuming probably only 45-50 watts total per unit.
100% is 115 watts
87% is 95 watts
75% is 69 watts
50% is 30 watts
 
No rush at all. I like your original design...I just need the square tube channel in the bracket to run parallel to the fixtures as opposed to the way you have it perpendicular in your picture.
I'm going to use a long piece of square aluminum tubing from EZ Tube.com hung from the ceiling over a 10 foot long tank. I have no access to a 3D printer unfortunately. I'm near Pittsburgh, PA. How much do you think 7 brackets would cost to print and ship. Again no rush. :)
View attachment 32410076
This is where I'm at so far. I'm going with two narrow per fixture instead of 1 big one. It will save material and you can spread them out to the end holes to make them that much more stable. I know it doesn't mean anything to you but I'm going to side print them with an .8mm nozzle so they will be strong as ****. Does eztube happen to publish their corner radius? Right now I just winged a radius and I'm making them a bit of a close fit so knowing the actual would make me feel better.

Screenshot 2025-03-01 112503.png
 
Adding, with the above settings, I'm getting a nice crisp, old school 10K look and it's awesome.
When the nonbelievers finally see the light. Welcome to the future. Good to have you. If you add as many lights as I have seen you mention, only run them at 45% at first. Acclimation is important. Adjust them 2-3% a week. Yes the MH are stronger but it is necessary. There is something different about LED and some corals react poorly if hit with a lot of it right at first.
 
This is where I'm at so far. I'm going with two narrow per fixture instead of 1 big one. It will save material and you can spread them out to the end holes to make them that much more stable. I know it doesn't mean anything to you but I'm going to side print them with an .8mm nozzle so they will be strong as ****. Does eztube happen to publish their corner radius? Right now I just winged a radius and I'm making them a bit of a close fit so knowing the actual would make me feel better.

View attachment 32410177
Looks great! I can not find any other CAD drawing other than the one provided here on their website under the product info.
 
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Well 7 out of 8 isn't bad. I installed new firmware in the last one and while testing I noticed the UV lights randomly flicker once set above 60%. Probably a bad capacitor or something. Hopefully, I can make it work with 7 lights and use this one for parts if needed.

@griss Did your fixture stop flickering after storm mode was turned off?
 
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