chinese led lights

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7 reasons to gut a dimmable fixture

7 reasons to gut a dimmable fixture

Jrp1588....
Aren't you the guy who doesn't understand why someone would want a dimmable fixture....
Please allow me to enlighten you because that comment was very narrow indeed in itself.

1.some people have to much established coral to move it all down...
2. Sometimes u feel like a blue some times you don't..
3. Coral likes sunsets ( big deal?, maybe...)
4. A screen isn't gonna give you a 5%per day increase ( patience pays off )
5. repairs... I've seen inside of those things that's gonna be a b**** when one of those go out.
6. Are you sure you got EXACTLY what the advertisement said?
7. Bridgelux LEDs are sensitive to heat and the majority of the black boxes are super compact... Lifespan will be affected by things like heat on bridgelux (2-3 yr warranty) and if you think your gettin Cree in a cheap black box..think again... Probably ain't even bridgelux....

Love the picture...
 
Nope, don't check magnesium. I've had it checked a few times, and it's always been where it should be. With these lights, it's easy to raise or lower the fixture itself which takes care of acclimation issues. I doubt corals care much about sunsets. Neat feature if you have it on a controller though, I agree. But just turning a manual knob seems pointless.

My fixture stays very cool. It has a nice heatsink and 3 fans per fixture. Don't care if I got EXACTLY what the ad said, these lights grow coral, and look to be put together wall.
 
Jrp1588....
Aren't you the guy who doesn't understand why someone would want a dimmable fixture....
Please allow me to enlighten you because that comment was very narrow indeed in itself.

1.some people have to much established coral to move it all down......

Well in common sense if they have so much corals that grew under there old lights could they have gotten to powerfull of a light fixture for what they have now. Yes Corals adapt slowly but what about the new coral you bought or when you move a coral to begin with.


2. Sometimes u feel like a blue some times you don't.....

that is why some people run most of there blues at sunrise to sunset and most of there whites at midday. With a big LED system you can phase in the lights in numerious steps without dimmers or controlers.


3. Coral likes sunsets ( big deal?, maybe...)...

A while ago there was a study I read that actualy showed this for some corals. They basicly opened in the AM shut down at mid day when there was too much light for them, then reopened again in the evening. Sure some other corals only opened at mid day when the lighting were at its peak. But our problem is realy trynig to mix corals that are found in nature at 10 feet of water, 100 feet of water, and 500 feet of water, in to a small 2 foot tall tank.


4. A screen isn't gonna give you a 5%per day increase ( patience pays off )...

Yes if your making a drastic change it needs to be done gradualy. But 5% per day would take you from no light to full light in 20 days.

If your DIY fixture has 5 strings of LED's simply only run 3 strings the first 2 weeks for 60% power, than add another string for another two weeks so your at 80% power, and then after week 4 run all 5 for full power.

5. repairs... I've seen inside of those things that's gonna be a b**** when one of those go out....

Not on a DIY system. You know exactly what parts are in there and where to get replacements. For the Chinnesee systems there are no true gurantees since they are not obligated by our laws.

6. Are you sure you got EXACTLY what the advertisement said?...

This is so true. I see so many advertisement for 60 Watt LED lights using 50 LED's rated at 3 Watts. do your math and you will find these are not running at 3 watts each but more like 1.2 Watts each. Some actualy claim to be using LED's that do even exist like ALL Cree 20,000K White LED's.


7. Bridgelux LEDs are sensitive to heat and the majority of the black boxes are super compact... Lifespan will be affected by things like heat on bridgelux (2-3 yr warranty) and if you think your gettin Cree in a cheap black box..think again... Probably ain't even bridgelux....

Love the picture...

Yes I know you have a point here. Putting 60 LEDs into a small box and running them at a respectable wattage does create heating problems even with CREE's. On black box I noted was roughly 6" X 12" claiming to be using 60 Cree 3 Watt LED's. They did not list the total wattage of there system. But that is basicly 1 LED per 1.2 square inches. With a 1" tall heat sink that would mean the max cooling area they could have would be 12.5" . This would be barely enough to cool the most effecient 1 Watt LED. Now keep in mind that the difference in quality is related a lot to how the LED uses the power. If you put 3 watts into it one will convert 20% to heat and 80% to light, while another lower quality one might convert 45% to heat and 55% to light. Then Johnny wonder why his 120 Watt system is only producing 68% of the light as Jacks. and Why Jack has to listen to the humms of fans as heat is rising from his fixture while Johnny has no fans and his fixture remains touchable.
 
Ofcourse it's a hobby...
Some take it mor seriously than others...
When's the last time you checked your magnesium ?:thumbsup:
Some people with tanks never do.... Other people with TANKS say its one of the most important levels to check...

Live and learn the black box over the 30 gal at the fish store I work at has rust on the fins after a year...
Some black boxes aren't as good as others and the numbers they are reporting may not be what you accuqly get...

"to some it's a hobby, to others it's a life" -me

different people take hobbies to different levels. Some ombine hobbies like electronics and there reef keeping. Some are more intrested in the electronic that there tanks others stay way from electronoics. For some people a 20 gallon nanop reef is all they care to have, for others a 500 gallon tank is something that would not be enough to keep them happy. Some people look at a hobby to occupy a couple hours of a weekend, others what to spend all there time waway from there job at there hobby.

As far as your rusty LED set up at work I would think this would be common sense. Salt water and iron based materials do not work well together. Who ever designed that system and okayed its marketing for salt water tanks should be fired. This is why when I build a fixture it is all aluminium. Even my old low cost light fixtures were plastic and Alumnium.
 
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4x39 Nova Extreme. Short in the wire. Doesn't matter on name or whatever brand it was, even brand names can have flaws. But it happens.

Most of the products are made in China and assembled in the USA.

I have some China made fixtures and do not have an issue. I have no heat. But, on that note, its just blue/whites and would rather a broader color spectrum as found in the more expensive, name brands.

These 2x 120w 3w led fixtures replaced my metal halides. I do have SPS in the tank but nothing really awesome like others have


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Sent from my Galaxy S2 using Tapatalk
 
Scooter it is hard to judge photos as the color from different cameras and camera setting do varry it alot. But looking at little details like your clowns show your weak in the red end of the spectrum for your reflective colors to me. However this could be the camera rather than reality.

Looks like you have the same problem I have with my tank though. That is too many Green corals and not enough other colors. I have a birds nest that was bright red under my T-5's but as I played with LED's it changed considerably.

100% blue LED's looks black with glowing white tips
50% Cool Whites 50% Blues a real dark marron with some glow in the tips.
33% Neutral Whites 66% Blues the most of the red is back but the tips do not pop like they did before.
25% Neutral Whites 75% Blues red is still there and the tips now pop out at you again.

But I also have a red Montipora Cap and the Blues alone make it realy pop red with the whites having no effect on its red color.
 
So TopTrea, can you take a look at this one and weigh in, please?....or anyone?

http://www.ledaquagrow.com/en-view-cp365.html

Tois does not sound like a bad fixture provided you can get the ALL CREE 3 Watt LED's in it. I do not like there light configuration but they claim you can custimize it to your liking. If you can get it with:

22 CREE XP-G Neutral Whites
33 CREE XP-E Royal Blues
33 Cree XP-E Blue LED's

For under $550 it would be a worth while buy but I do not see a price tag on it. The built in controler may make it worth more to some people though. But I'm cautious they say LED's capable of handling 3 Watts but they are not saying that actual run them at 3 Watts under full power. Perhaps I like to read between the lines to much.
 
Oh...

Oh...

When I say 5% per day I was starting at 60%....

Yeah right...the guy who got all of those soon to be rusted out boxes sold probably got a raise...


You get what you pay for...

But in the same breath I must say building a computer ie easier than choosing the right fixture...:wildone:
 
Looks ok... How much

Looks ok... How much

So TopTrea, can you take a look at this one and weigh in, please?....or anyone?

http://www.ledaquagrow.com/en-view-cp365.html



Looks nice... Needs a splash guard unless you wanna polish a ton of lenses...

How much?
I saw the floating Chinese salesperson so I gotta ask how much for shipping...

Cool controller love the moon phase... ( seems a bit pointless to try to copy nature so closely though.... Not... Sorry im done ...Lol ) But I prefer external that way it's replaceable if it burns out or breaks..
 
Maybe $300. Cheap shipping...

Maybe $300. Cheap shipping...

ThAt fixture has 60 degree lenses... Thats gonna cast spotlights on the bottom of shallow tanks... Might affect shimmer effect too.


The info seems shady I'm thinking it's not as goo as it says... But the spacing is correct and the controller is slick... Under $4oo with shipping nd its good for a tall or a 125 maybe...

I wouldn't use 60 deg lenses on my 125...
 
Looks nice... Needs a splash guard unless you wanna polish a ton of lenses...

How much?
I saw the floating Chinese salesperson so I gotta ask how much for shipping...

Cool controller love the moon phase... ( seems a bit pointless to try to copy nature so closely though.... Not... Sorry im done ...Lol ) But I prefer external that way it's replaceable if it burns out or breaks..

I don't have details on this yet. Some local guys on our St. Louis Facebook page showed it to me today. I have been trying to get a little group buy together on some Eshine 48x3 Cree w/controllers but it is getting to be a PITA. I think they said this 48" light was $275 but I am not sure what LEDs they were talking about. It says there is a 90 degree lens too. I think a guy in the group is buying one to try out and look at the guts and get some numbers.
 
I am no expert on LED fixtures by any means. But, I am an expert on what my budget will allow for my new tank build. :-) So, I have a choice, try to find parts to build a DIY T5 setup for a 6' tank, or buy 3 LEDs that seem to get very good reviews. Having those LEDs only cost me $250 each (or $235 if we get a couple more people on board) will not break my current budget and will certainly help my future budget when I don't have to replace lamps every 8-12 months. Sure, I would like to have some of the $600/fixture LEDs but that isn't going to happen. If anyone else is in the same boat as me, you are welcome to join in with us.
 

I do not like the white selection they are giving you. Cool Whites are lacking in red compared to the green light they emit for a good color balance.

The do offer the option of a warm white which goes to the other extrem. Warm whites have enough red in them to bleach out a lot of corals before they get enough green to fill in the needs in that part of the spectrum.

If you can get them with Nuetral Whites on a ratio of 2 Blues to 1 White if you like a a 14,000K look or 3 Blues to 1 White for a 18,00K look you will be happier.

Now keep in mind that the solar stimulator for this fixture is sold seperately. And as with most advertisement they are telling you they are running 48X 3 Watt LED's but not telling what the actual wattage they running at. If it is running at 120 Watts or more I would look positive on it.
 
A couple pictures of my two eshine 48x3W CREE with 4 RB replaced with red in my 125 gallon tank which just finished cycling.

10% white and 30% RB/red. The 4 red LEDs in the left unit were covered by blue masking tape to reduce its intensity. Only 2 red were covered by blue masking tape in the right fixture. Which side do you like?
007-2.jpg


40% white and 60% RB/red.
004-4.jpg
hey, was wondering how you managed to get the background for your tank? looks sick :spin2:
 
These are the standard 48x3 crees, also running 8, 20x3 crees from eshines

You have me confused. From the literature I saw standard are bridglux LED's and the Cree's are special order.


The 60 Watt Cree Classic does run CREE LED's with 20 LED's pulling 60 Watts. The clasic does list a 48 X 3 yet.

The 3rd generation aquarium light system are using 1 Watt no brand name LED's

The 4th generation aquarium Light system includes a 48 3 Watt Bridgelux system.

The Aqua Washer strips mention Bridgelux/Cree for LED's but from the specs I suspect the whites are bridgelux and the blues are Cree.

The Aqua master series mentions Bridgelux LED's and/or Cree LED's noting the whites are 10,000K to 20,000K which means they are probably bridgelux since Cree highest temp is 8,300K And is combination LED-T-5 fixture.
 
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